Hi
I was just wondering. I haven't checked the owners manual yet.
We have a 2003 Grand Caravan EX without a tow package but the larger engine (I forget what size). Can we tow our PU which lists 2500 lbs. as the GVW?
If so, should we definitely modify the van a little like with a transmission cooler?
If anyone has real experience with this, I would appreciate it. If you have an opinion, that would be great too.
thanks
You can check out the tow rating for your 2003 Caravan at www.trailerlife.com (//%22http://www.trailerlife.com/%22) and it looks like the tow rating is 3500 or 3800, depending on your engine. To be on the safe side, I believe that you should keep you trailer down to about 70% of the tow rating. Other things to take into consideration is the loaded weight of the popup and the number of people you have in the tow vehicle. From past experience, I do think it's a good idea to have a transmission cooler.
I towed a small PU, that was under 1000 pounds empty, with a 1996 Grand Caravan. It didn't have the tow package, but did have the larger engine like your van. The Caravan did a good job towing my small trailer. How it will preform with a larger trailer I can't predict. You should add the tranny cooler and I am guessing that you will need some type of helper springs or air bags to keep the back end of the van from sagging. I towed my 3000 pound trailer with a Ford Windstar for 3 years and it did an OK job, but I was more worried when towing with the front wheel drive vehicle (the trailer weight on the rear of the van takes weight off of the front wheels), than I do now with the rear wheel drive vehicle. Good luck. :)
We towed the first 3 times out and then upgraded to a truck.. the back end of our dodge sagged and the engine had a strain on it on most hills.. We could always "feel" the PU behind us, now with the truck I dont feel a thing..
Maybe a weight distribution hitch would put some weight back on those front wheels. Check that out too. Then the ride wouldn't change without the trailer.
Quote from: rsmithHi
I was just wondering. I haven't checked the owners manual yet.
We have a 2003 Grand Caravan EX without a tow package but the larger engine (I forget what size). Can we tow our PU which lists 2500 lbs. as the GVW?
If so, should we definitely modify the van a little like with a transmission cooler?
If anyone has real experience with this, I would appreciate it. If you have an opinion, that would be great too.
thanks
I tow with a 1998 Chrysler Town & Country AWD with 3.8 plus tow package. I know the one you have is redesigned but the engine is the same, albeit more horsepower for 2003. A Grand Caravan without a tow package is a much different vehicle than one with the tow package. Here is what is included in the tow package:
1. Heavy Duty Load-Leveling suspension. An extra leaf on the springs is the difference here. Ride quality is much more smooth and solid in direct comparisons. It also keeps your headlights level and prevents the suspension from bottoming out.
2. Heavy duty brakes. And discs all the way around. Trailer brakes are still mandatory.
3. Heavy duty transmission cooler. Self-evident, and its big. You can add this yourself.
4. Heavy duty engine oil cooler. Prevents engine from overheating when climbing long grades.
5. Heavy duty alternator
If you had the tow package, your Grand Caravan would have a GCWR of 8600 lbs. Subtract a curb weight of around 4200 lbs and that would leave you with technically a tow capacity of over 4000 lbs. So what that means is the tow capacity allows for quite a bit of people, cargo, and luggage inside. Without the tow package you're in the 6500 range, IIRC.
The problem here is that you don't have the tow package. The bigger engine doesn't mean much if it can't stay cool. I have found that even with the tow package, towing my 2300 lb popup and fully loaded minivan 2 adults, one kid, lots of luggage) that my temperature gauge inches its way up on long grades at altitude. So I turn off the air conditioner. Under most circumstances, even mild grades it doesn't budge. But without the tow package, I would hate to think what my temperature gauge would be doing.
I am comfortable towing with my T&C. I can hold 50+ on the steepest 4-lane highway grades at 7000+ feet in second gear without straining. I would even be willing to go with a heavier popup because I know our weights and what we bring along with us. However, without the tow package, I would be more hesitant. Contrary to others, I WANT to know I have a trailer back there. And I do, but I think I have a good combination right now.
The EX is a good minivan, but the drawback is that none of them are equipped with the tow package which I think is crucial for towing a 2500 lb popup.
My recommendation: With a 2500 lb popup, you will be over your GCWR for a Grand Caravan without the tow package, and I can't recommend you do that.
You may also find my website helpful:
http://sactocampers.tripod.com/sactocamperswebpage/id18.html
Mopar minivans are probably the most often questioned van on their towing ability. With the towing package, which IIRC also includes a full size spare as some of the not towing package ones use a space saver. ( a ful size spare is another must have, the space savers aren't designed to have the extra load plaed on them towing added and they fail quickly) They have a GCWR that allows for 3500-3800 pounds of weight total in the van and towed weight. Without the towing package it drops to between 1700-2100 pounds total weight.
Both of these are over the base vehicle with no options and only a 150 pound driver allowance. SO all your passengers, dogs, roof racks, bikes, coolers, clothes, and even the receiver's weights all have to be subtracted from the fantasy tow rating.
So I have to go with Sacto on this one. Without the towing package and normal options and passenger load you're down to around a 1000 pound gross trailer weight. No hard top PU today will come in under 1000 pounds ready to camp.
Many people do use them, some are lucky and tow for years without a problem. Others go through transmissions like they were $20 a piece, and still others have ended up in accidents where the combo just couldn't handle the conditions on the road.
It up to you, but IMHO, my family is worth thatever I had to do to tow with a safe as possible combination.
Quote from: mike4947Both of these are over the base vehicle with no options and only a 150 pound driver allowance. SO all your passengers, dogs, roof racks, bikes, coolers, clothes, and even the receiver's weights all have to be subtracted from the fantasy tow rating.
I have to correct Mike on this one as it's a common misconception and is frequently repeated on this and other boards. The DC minivan with tow package tow capacity
includes 600 pounds of people, cargo, and luggage. The math is quite simple:
2003 DC minivan with tow package GCWR = 8600
Typical DC minivan curb weight = 4200 lbs
GCWR - Curb Weight = 4400 lbs = tow capacity
3800 lb stated tow capacity + 600 lbs people/cargo = 4400 lbs
4400 lbs + 4200 lbs = 8600 lbs
No way to argue with those numbers unless my curb weight estimate is off by 600 lbs. My AWD minivan weighs in at 4500 lbs. Literature I've read states AWD adds about 300 lbs, so my curb weight estimate for FWD minivan should be fairly accurate.
The DC website even states it includes x number of people included in the van.
Same is true for Ford Windstar and the new Toyota Sienna. I don't know why so many people claim you
must subtract any weight from the tow capacity. It simply isn't true in the cases I've mentioned.
QuoteMany people do use them, some are lucky and tow for years without a problem. Others go through transmissions like they were $20 a piece, and still others have ended up in accidents where the combo just couldn't handle the conditions on the road.
It up to you, but IMHO, my family is worth thatever I had to do to tow with a safe as possible combination.
I think the safety issue here is overrated. The vehicle with tow package can easily handle 2500 lbs and as much as 3000 lbs without safety being an issue. That's why they provide the tow capacities, safety is
supposed to be a factor, at least that's the angle of the conservative advice in this and other forums. Can't use lack of safety as an argument when the numbers don't support it. Even without the tow package, I don't think safety is the issue, reliability is. No reason why a DC minivan with TP can't handle a
properly balanced popup in the 3000 lb and under range. Quite frankly, I'd rather tow with my minivan than a mid-size SUV. Lower center of gravity, wider stance, and longer wheelbase all contribute to better towing manners.
The issue of transmissions and FWD minivans (DC minivans in particular) frequently surfaces as a reason not to tow with them. For DC minivans, the point is moot because the transmissions are prone to premature failure whether you tow with them or not. So if you own one (they were supposed to be improved the past couple of years) and don't want to get rid of it, tow with it. If it's going to fail, it will do so regardless of whether you tow. I would get an extended warranty with one of these vans anyway. I've made over $4000 in claims on my $1000 warranty.
Quote from: SactoCampersFor DC minivans, the point is moot because the transmissions are prone to premature failure whether you tow with them or not. .
You said a mouthful there! We had one the transmission blew on TWICE in 3 months for no apparent reason. two whole separate transmission. No rebuilds.
Our first tow vehicle was a 97 Grand Caravan EX with the big engine. We had no problems with power or brakes pulling our Coleman Santa Fe. We did get significant back end sag (which we probably could have fixed with a WD hitch). The thing that concerned me most was the transmission controller. I had to really watch the RPMs when we were going up steep grades. The transmission would often slip out of lock, which is the cause of transmission overheating.
We created a spreadsheet for our van that plotted RPM vs speed for all the transmission gears so I could periodically check to make sure the transmission was locked. We did great, just down shift anytime the transmission slipped out of lock and wala happy van :S !
The bottom line for me, is that without the tow package, your transmission is very venerable (and expensive to fix if you mess it up :( ).
BTW don't forget the brake controller and for my money the Prodigy is the best.
cheers,
OK - now for the other side of the coin. With a 96 3.3L v6 Grand Caravan with no tow package we have towed over 15000 miles in the month of August of 03 alone. Two trips - one crossed the cascades 5 times, the other crossed the sierra and meandered through the rockies in Idaho and Montana. Our trailer weighs in at 2500 lbs.
Now for the messy details. 1. Read the owners manual. It will tell you (among other things) to use a weight distributing hitch if your trailer is over 1000 lbs. That hitch will take care of the sag by distributing weight onto the front axle. Sorry, Sacto, but my experience with the Nivomat self leveling shock on has been less than confidence building. I have heavy duty KYB shocks and with the distributing hitch we haul just fine.
2. Tow package. Make your own if you are so inclined. Many of us have installed oil coolers and heavy duty alternators. That is what most tow packages are. If you have the proper brake controller installed (Prodigy) and have adjusted it properly the the trailer will put minimal strain on the tow vehicle brake systems. Change the trannny fluid every 15,000 miles. Baby it a little...3000 mile oil changes, proper servicing, etc.
3. Use commmon sense when towing. I have pulled many long steep grades without overheating. When I did see the needle start to move I slowed down to about 45 and made sure I had the tranny shifted to 3. If the needle still moves turn on the heater and turn off the a/c. Know how much your rig weighs, how much you and your family weigh, luggage etc.
If you can do all those things, have fun towing. If not - buy a new tow vehicle
By the way, when I finished the 2nd trip our van had 120,000 miles on it. I have now moved it into semi-retirement with my new Vue taking on the majority of the towing chores.
Hope this helps
We have been towing our Santee ( 2200lbs loaded ) for four years with our 97 T and C van. We have the 3.8 but no tow package. It has been great and most of time, I don't even know the camper is back there. Am thinkin about adding a tranny cooler this spring tho, altho my mechanic says its really not needed because the radiators in these vans are so large. Tow rating on my van is 4000. Happy campin
Quote from: woodthumbAm thinkin about adding a tranny cooler this spring tho, altho my mechanic says its really not needed because the radiators in these vans are so large.
Somebody correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't the van's radiator size irrelevant to the need of a tranny cooler? IIRC, some vehicles do have some type of tranny cooler running around the radiator; however, it would seem completely independent and irrelevant if it doesn't. Somebody enlighten me? Or maybe confirm my suspicions?
Larry
My Grand Caravan has a tranny cooler that is incorporated in the radiator however I felt it would be prudent to add another.
Abbear is right, if you can add the towing package components, then that would upgrade your GCWR to 8600 lbs and the popup would be no problem for that minivan. His experience is with load leveling shocks, engine oil cooler and WDH. I wish I had WDH; minivan requires it, popup prohibits it, so I don't use it. Minivan doesn't seem to have a problem with my tongue weight near 350 lbs. Keep in mind there's only three of us, a dog, and I remove our rear bench and one second row captain's chair to save weight.
I have had no problems whatsoever with the stock mechanical load-leveling suspension. Other difference is that the axle is heavier duty. I have compared it with non tow-package DC minivans and there is an extra leaf. I don't know what effect this has on the RAWR, however.
I have a 2001 ex that I towed a 2002 Niagara with for two
seasons,I towed from Maryland to Lake George,NY to Hershey PA and more
Never once did I feel anything but in control. And I towed on
very busy roads like the Cross Bronx Express for those of you
who know the New York area. As far as A tow package the EX
already has a tranny cooler (not the one in the rad) an external one
it has 4 wheel disc,a 160 amp alt. What I did was add a coil type helper
spring that works good. Now we have a Trailmanor 2619 I picked
it up in Dallas PA and drove it 80+ miles back to Pike county PA
And it towed better than the pop up I think because I have a
better WDH The van works great for us
You have to use commen sence,you can have the biggest pick up and the smallest trailer and still reck if you dont use commen sence good luck
Quote from: SactoCamperswish I had WDH; minivan requires it, popup prohibits it,
Coleman/Fleetwood PUs allow the use of a WDH. :)
Quote from: tlhdocColeman/Fleetwood PUs allow the use of a WDH. :)
I'm not a big Coleman fan.
We towed with a Grand Caravan for about 18 months. It did not have a tow package, I did add helper springs to take the sag out of the back though. At the time we bought the trailer I knew nothing about towing and tow ratings. I took the dealers word for it that our van was capable of towing our 2500 lb Cheyenne. We never had any real problems but we generally chose to avoid long grades where we could. We did have to climb about 2500 feet on our way home from any trip we took to the west and we really felt the trailer then. I can't give you long term results but I am glad that we are no longer towing with the minivan.
We now have a K2500 Suburban. Now I know how far over the edge we were with the Grand Caravan. I can tell you now that we had NO margin for error with the Caravan! With the Suburban I know that I am in control of both the Truck and the Trailer. With the GC I could really feel the trailer moving the van around. IMHO cars (make no mistake, minivans are closer to cars than trucks) make poor TV's for all but the lightest trailers. Anything about 1000 lbs needs a truck to pull it safely.
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Windstars definitely do require one to subtract weight of cargo, etc from the tow ratings. I don't know about the DC minivans - wouldn't have one. I find it hard to believe especially in the land of litigation, that ANY auto producer would tell someone that they can have a fully loaded van and pull xyz # trailer. Not saying that they don't - supposedly the Japanese vehicles do.
I can't tell you how much stuff I put in a vehicle before I hitch up. Let's just say that I had 7 people (2 adults, two teenagers, and 3 little people) and there associated stuff - that's bound to be a lot different than having 5 adult males who do damage at the buffet (like me!) and their tools/toys/gadgets/food/clothes.
DC is definitely known for HIGH failure drivetrains (engine and transaxle) among a host of safety defects. We have close friends who think the sun rises and shines because of Chrysler products - yet they will be the first to tell you that they 'unload' (sell) their minivans, etc. before 60,000 miles so that they don't have problems and that they would never consider keeping one beyond that mileage.
Any mechanic who tells someone that they don't need a tranny cooler because the radiator is large is someone that I wouldn't have checking the tire pressures. While it is common convention to put the transmission lines into the radiator for cooling, I still think that cooling is much better done with a dedicated tranny cooler which flows ambient temperature air around the coils, rather than 195 degree coolant... Temperature is the MAJOR component of transmission fluid life.
Quote from: wynotWindstars definitely do require one to subtract weight of cargo, etc from the tow ratings. I don't know about the DC minivans - wouldn't have one. I find it hard to believe especially in the land of litigation, that ANY auto producer would tell someone that they can have a fully loaded van and pull xyz # trailer. Not saying that they don't - supposedly the Japanese vehicles do.
For clarification, late model Windstars with tow package have an 8600 lb GCWR. It's right there on the ford towing website. Curb weight is around 4200 lbs. 8600-4200 = 4400 lbs towing capacity unloaded. I wouldn't tow that much, but what that number does in fact tell you is that the 3500 lb tow rating includes a considerable amount of cargo. Not a full 1200 lb payload, but a lot of cargo (ironically, the difference is approximately a full load minus an appropriate 300 lb hitch weight). There's no other way around the numbers.
Same is true with DC minivans, except they have an 8300 lb GCWR with tow package.
VW Eurovan has 9300 or 9400 lb GCWR. This is another FWD unibody minivan.
Latest model Sienna has 8600 lb GCWR
Honda Odyssey has 8160 lb GCWR
GM minivans are around 8000 lb GCWR, I believe, but I'm not certain
All of these vehicles are in the 4000-4500 lb weight range. So, it's a MORE accurate statement to say that nearly ALL FWD minivans include a weight allowance more than the standard "150 lb driver" that a lot of folks seem to regurgitate. A minivan would require both a curb weight of 4350 lbs and have a GCWR of 8000 lbs (this exact combination is rare) in order to comply with the theory frequently stated. Any weight less or GCWR higher than those just stated have X amount included in their towing capacity. There's no other way around the math when the GCWR is known.
Towing capacity is vehicle specific and generalizations should not be made unless one specifically knows the weights, calculations, and assumptions that went into that specific vehicle.
This country is great ain't it ? So many have different opinions, and we all treat each of them so graciously.... the Chrysler 3.8 vans come with a 14 quart cooling system with twin electric variable speed rad fans controlled by the vehicle's VCM. Under normal circumstances, towing within the 4000 lb range, my mechanic was simply stating the cooling power of these vans are more than sufficient to handle keeping the tran fluid at or below breakdown temps. I have never seen my temp gauge above half way. And now with 100000 miles on my van, and towing our camper for four years with no aux. cooler, from FLA to the NC mountains and all points between, I am inclined to think he is correct. Of course, an aux. cooler would only improve the situation and I am considering it now that we have so many miles. By the way, he is the lead mechanic at our Sherrif's Dept. garage and a top notch tech. And just a little add..... I am one that thinks repacking wheel bearings every year is also very un-needed. I have yet to re-pack mine and they run cool to the touch at every stop. So many campers seem to only create undo problems when they have this service done. I will let all know if I have a problem with either . I have been wrong before ......... once. Your turn..... Thanks
Quote from: woodthumbThis country is great ain't it ? So many have different opinions, and we all treat each of them so graciously.... the Chrysler 3.8 vans come with a 14 quart cooling system with twin electric variable speed rad fans controlled by the vehicle's VCM. Under normal circumstances, towing within the 4000 lb range, my mechanic was simply stating the cooling power of these vans are more than sufficient to handle keeping the tran fluid at or below breakdown temps. I have never seen my temp gauge above half way. And now with 100000 miles on my van, and towing our camper for four years with no aux. cooler, from FLA to the NC mountains and all points between, I am inclined to think he is correct. Of course, an aux. cooler would only improve the situation and I am considering it now that we have so many miles. By the way, he is the lead mechanic at our Sherrif's Dept. garage and a top notch tech. And just a little add..... I am one that thinks repacking wheel bearings every year is also very un-needed. I have yet to re-pack mine and they run cool to the touch at every stop. So many campers seem to only create undo problems when they have this service done. I will let all know if I have a problem with either . I have been wrong before ......... once. Your turn..... Thanks
Nobody is trying to be right or wrong AND I have been around many PROFESSIONAL mechanics who have been very lucky - usually those involved with fleet maintenance tend to be risk takers because of fleet's tendency to change vehicles or have accidents first. It's also hard to pin down a specific mechanic with a failure in such environments - too many people have been involved. Anyhow, I do agree about the wheel bearing repacking being somewhat questionable on such a frequent basis.
Anyhow, ATF is funny stuff. I wouldn't rely on a coolant temp to tell me anything about my oil or tranny. Here's a couple of 'why's' to that. I threw a rod on my Windstar and was running (albeit BADLY) on 5 cylinders. My oil which had 138 miles on it was black, burning, and had the consistency of blacktop sealer. My engine temp was right where it always was when warmed up.
A radiator has a phenomenal ability to absorb and transfer heat without necessarily showing on the gauge, and a stock radiator/tranny cooler combination actually has relatively little heat exchange for the transmission fluid compared to the gallons of hot coolant flowing through the radiator at any given instant.
(almost) Everyone relies on oil pressure as being an indicator of problems, but it is in combination with oil temperature that show a more complete picture. I can have motor oil running at (oil) breakdown/failure temperatures because of bottom end problems in an engine, but because the oil is providing the majority of the cooling in that area of an engine, it could fail to show up on a coolant temperature gauge.
Again, no right or wrong desired - just information.
We have a 2003 Ex Grand caravan and tow a Coleman Utah with no back end sag or problems. We do use a anti friction sway and WD hitch.
Quote from: rsmithHi
I was just wondering. I haven't checked the owners manual yet.
We have a 2003 Grand Caravan EX without a tow package but the larger engine (I forget what size). Can we tow our PU which lists 2500 lbs. as the GVW?
If so, should we definitely modify the van a little like with a transmission cooler?
If anyone has real experience with this, I would appreciate it. If you have an opinion, that would be great too.
thanks
I have a 2000 Chrysler Voyager, with no trailer package, but it has the 3.3 v-6. I have a 1993 Jayco 1006 which weighs 1400 pounds plus "stuff" in it so I call it 2000 pounds loaded. Then there is my wife and two kids and all their crap in the van itself. I pulled this trailer up I-95 in Florida (straight, no hills) and it was the first time so I went slow at first. before long I was cruising at 80-85MPH and almost forgot the trailer was there!! Allow some extra time to stop, there is 2000 pounds pushing you when you hit the brakes - I will be adding a transmission cooler, I did see my tranny temp guage a bit higer than usual and it's not the heat of the summer yet!! - I am putting in air shocks to help the back end from sagging. it is just at that point where I feel the front end lifting a bit. (but not as much as bringing home concrete blocks from Lowes - ha ha). I decided on air shocks so I can give 'em a shot of air when we go camping and let it out for the everyday around town driving.
Also when I got the trailer hitch installed and hooked up the trailer for the first time I took it out and "drove it like I stole it" through my neighborhood - just to make sure it would stay behind me when I got it out on the interstates.
I know the rating is 3800 pounds, but personally I can't see that happening. The way mine is set-up even another 500 or 1000 pounds would make life difficult.
also if your trailer is 2500 GVW, find out what it actually weighs, look on your state title. GVW is the total it can weigh trailer and stuff in it (right?)
Here is a pic
Quote from: Brewster_440I have a 2000 Chrysler Voyager, with no trailer package, but it has the 3.3 v-6. I have a 1993 Jayco 1006 which weighs 1400 pounds plus "stuff" in it so I call it 2000 pounds loaded. Then there is my wife and two kids and all their crap in the van itself. I pulled this trailer up I-95 in Florida (straight, no hills) and it was the first time so I went slow at first. before long I was cruising at 80-85MPH and almost forgot the trailer was there!! Allow some extra time to stop, there is 2000 pounds pushing you when you hit the brakes - I will be adding a transmission cooler, I did see my tranny temp guage a bit higer than usual and it's not the heat of the summer yet!! - I am putting in air shocks to help the back end from sagging. it is just at that point where I feel the front end lifting a bit. (but not as much as bringing home concrete blocks from Lowes - ha ha). I decided on air shocks so I can give 'em a shot of air when we go camping and let it out for the everyday around town driving.
Also when I got the trailer hitch installed and hooked up the trailer for the first time I took it out and "drove it like I stole it" through my neighborhood - just to make sure it would stay behind me when I got it out on the interstates.
I know the rating is 3800 pounds, but personally I can't see that happening. The way mine is set-up even another 500 or 1000 pounds would make life difficult.
also if your trailer is 2500 GVW, find out what it actually weighs, look on your state title. GVW is the total it can weigh trailer and stuff in it (right?)
Here is a pic
When you add the tranny cooler (very good idea) it may be wise to change your trans fluid. If you saw it running on the warm side, it may be a good idea to get the fluid out of there before towing again (JMHO). Be sure to use ATF-4 in that trans. It is a synthetic trans fluid and should be able to handle the additional heat but I wouldn't bet my trans on it. Don't let anyone talk you into using any other fluid for that trans ;) .
Driving that vehicle at 80-85 towing a trailer is asking for real trouble. You would never be able to stop that thing in an emergency stop at that speed. Even heavy breaking may warp the disc brake rotors on that vehicle. They can barely take the strain of the vehicle itself without and additional ton of weight. Just my 2 cents. :sombraro:
Quote from: rsmithHi
I was just wondering. I haven't checked the owners manual yet.
We have a 2003 Grand Caravan EX without a tow package but the larger engine (I forget what size). Can we tow our PU which lists 2500 lbs. as the GVW?
If so, should we definitely modify the van a little like with a transmission cooler?
If anyone has real experience with this, I would appreciate it. If you have an opinion, that would be great too.
thanks
We have a 2001 grand caravan sport and a just purchased a 2004 rockwood freedom 2270 with elecrtic brakes. I would highly recommend electric brakes on your camper for towing with the caravan. You will need it. I am using a $60 Hayes brake controller which works just fine on a pop up. Also, I installed a class 3 hitch because the Dodge owners manual clearly states that a WDH must be used if your pop up if over 1000. I bought a Equal-iz-er WDH and have modified my camper to accept it despite what the Rockwood owners manual states. The money i spent it is cheap insurance for the safety of my family as well as others on the road. Make sure you have a tranny cooler if you dont have one. As an added precaution, I have installed a B&M transmission Temp guage to monitor the tranny. Have your transmission fluid changed every 30K at the dealer only. Your vehicle reuqires AT+4 fluid which was developed and pattened by Chrysler. Local shops will use an equivilant, but DO NOT GO THERE to save a few bucks, it is not the same fluid and will screw up your tranny. When you are towing, just baby your vehicle and dont floor it to get up to speed. This is too hard on the tranny. We have had no problems and I am quite surprized how well this caravan actually tows. Have fun and be safe !!!!