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How many people out there service their own bearings?

Quote from: scottab96How many people out there service their own bearings?

Hi Scott,

I service my own wheel bearings, have for many years.

Do you have a question/suggestion about doing it or do you just want to see how many people do their own?

I'd like to learn how.

I've read about it, but can I learn without a master on-hand to show me?

Check this site out.

http://www.rverscorner.com/articles/bearing1.html

Quote from: RonCheck this site out.

http://www.rverscorner.com/articles/bearing1.html

This is good except two things:

...DO NOT put the gob of grease in your palm, put it in a plastic sandwich bag, then put the bearing cage in the bag.  It's easier and cleaner.

...DO NOT put more than a thin (but complete) coating of grease on the axle and races when re-assembling.  Excess grease ends up on the outside of the seal, and therefore on the brakes - a bad place for it.

Repacking bearings is not complicated, but it is messy.  I always take my time, so it takes me way longer than it needs to.  The first time was about an hour per wheel.  Now I'm down around 45 minutes total.

Austin

Those are good directions. The only thing that I do differently is use a block of wood against the grease seal when I tap it back in place. That helps it go in evenly and keeps you from distorting the seal with the hammer. Also, take care not to damage the seating surface when removing the seal. If the seal is hard to put back, don't force it. There is probably a bur or distortion from removing the old seal. Oh ya, never reinstall a brake drum after you drop it on the ground. Take it to a machine shop and have it machined. If it's out of round or distorted (it really doesn't take much), they won't be able to machine it. Buy a new one.

A couple pair of rubber gloves goes a long ways to helping this job be more pleasant.

I just thought of one more thing. Cotter pins are cheap. Get a bag of them for a buck and replace them every time. If a cotter pin falls out, the wheel comes off. THAT'S expensive. Besides, for the price of a new cotter pin, it's not worth trying to straighten the old one and force it through the hole.  After too many times of doing that, it will surely break. A new one slides in real easy and you will sleep better :D .

I never pack wheel bearings by hand. For around $25 you can buy a wheel bearing packer, sure is a lot cleaner, and it is always loaded with grease. Well worth the money.

Quote from: ToolmaanI never pack wheel bearings by hand. For around $25 you can buy a wheel bearing packer, sure is a lot cleaner, and it is always loaded with grease. Well worth the money.

I think that I paid less than $10 for this bearing packer. You need a greese gun with a zerk fitting.
http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/itemdisplay/displayItem.do
HMMMMM! :confused:  Link doesn't work right. You have to type in item # 3168.

I do mine.
What is every ones definition of finger tight.

I have done it once on each of my two trailers. Too nasty, and the wife doesn't like me being around after I do it. So, I'll just haul it in.

Larry

Quote from: waveryThose are good directions. The only thing that I do differently is use a block of wood against the grease seal when I tap it back in place. That helps it go in evenly and keeps you from distorting the seal with the hammer. Also, take care not to damage the seating surface when removing the seal. If the seal is hard to put back, don't force it. There is probably a bur or distortion from removing the old seal. Oh ya, never reinstall a brake drum after you drop it on the ground. Take it to a machine shop and have it machined. If it's out of round or distorted (it really doesn't take much), they won't be able to machine it. Buy a new one.

A couple pair of rubber gloves goes a long ways to helping this job be more pleasant.

I just thought of one more thing. Cotter pins are cheap. Get a bag of them for a buck and replace them every time. If a cotter pin falls out, the wheel comes off. THAT'S expensive. Besides, for the price of a new cotter pin, it's not worth trying to straighten the old one and force it through the hole.  After too many times of doing that, it will surely break. A new one slides in real easy and you will sleep better :D .

I had to laugh at myself (after sweating a bucket full):

Last night I repacked my bearings. Opened up the first one, and what fell out? A half inch of cotter pin! Boy...that could have ruined my day on a trip (or the whole trip).

You are right...replace the cotter pins. I bought a bag of about 10 extras for 98 cents at Tractor Supply (my own personal heaven, outside of RV dealers).

Larry

You got off easy :) . I can't remember how many trailers I have seen sitting on the side of the road with one wheel missing.

I'm sure glad that you found it before the nut backed off.

Besides, I hate fighting with old cotter keys, trying to get them back in the hole. New ones go in so easy :D  and make the job a little cleaner too :p

Quote from: waveryBesides, I hate fighting with old cotter keys, trying to get them back in the hole. New ones go in so easy :D  and make the job a little cleaner too :p

Getting an OLD cotter key back in is easier than getting a NEW hub dust cap back on! :mad:

Larry

Larry you must have missed the geting the dust cap on right threads.
Can remember who first suggested it but a pipe nipple the size to just fit over the center hump works wonders on setting the dust cap without distorting it. Haven't had a fall out yet since.

Quote from: mike4947Larry you must have missed the geting the dust cap on right threads.
Can remember who first suggested it but a pipe nipple the size to just fit over the center hump works wonders on setting the dust cap without distorting it. Haven't had a fall out yet since.

Now that you mention it, Mike, I do vaguely remember that. I think I had already decided to let our local camper dealer do them, so it wasn't committed to memory. For some reason, this task truly causes my blood pressure to go up. I think I am just worried about the horrible consequences if I don't do it right....I did it wrong once, on my ATV trailer. What a mess. The castle nut was ground to a powder (at least part of it was). So, I had to completely disassemble again and make sure it had no metal powder/filings in the hub.

I think I'll go back to my commitment to let the dealer do it. It isn't too hard of a task; it just frustrates me.

Larry

When installing a new dust cap I always  put a slight  bevel or taper on the outside sharp edge of the cap with a flat file. This makes it install much easier if you don't have a pipe flange and does not reduce the cap's holding power....I have never lost one..........