Its probably been asked a million times before, but where do you purchase Bal levellers and approx what it the price? I have my 40th fast approaching so figure I can ask or at least hint for something a little more extravegant than usual :D
Quote from: PLJIts probably been asked a million times before, but where do you purchase Bal levellers and approx what it the price? I have my 40th fast approaching so figure I can ask or at least hint for something a little more extravegant than usual :D
Peter,
there are many places you can buy them online. The best price I've seen is here:
http://www.puxtradingpost.com/product_info.php?products_id=1772&osCsid=7373e1db57bd5704965561c9da013aaaI just bought mine this week and waiting for delivery. I would probably get the locking chock that goes with it.... I mean, ya only turn 40 once, right? So why not milk it for all you can? :!
That is a good price. Here's Camping World as a comparison:
http://www.campingworld.com/browse/skus/index.cfm?deptID=&subOf=71,33&skunum=21017
No PU should be without one of these IMHO. It cuts set-up time considerably and eliminates a lot of fiddling around and frustrating guess work. WELL worth the investment.
Happy 40th :cake: :! . (Oh to be 40 again :D )
I plan on purchasing one as well for this season and so far PUX is the best price that I have found. The reviews there were good as well there was some discussion on //www.popupportal.com regarding faulty welds. Customer service though with the company I have heard is great.
The link for that was http://www.popupportal.com/topic.asp?whichpage=1&TOPIC_ID=3479&FORUM_ID=61&CAT_ID=18&pollresults=0&Forum_Title=Leveling+Your+PopUp&Topic_Title=Another+BAL+leveler+woe&ReplyIDsNotFound=1&AllReplyIDs=1 .
Shelly
Thanks for the links.
I saw on some of the reviews that some people had to dig trenches to use them. Are they just doing it wrong or is this to be expected? I want something that is going to make setup easier not more difficult :confused:
Now I wonder if I can get her to swing for a generator also :D
Quote from: PLJThanks for the links.
I saw on some of the reviews that some people had to dig trenches to use them. Are they just doing it wrong or is this to be expected? I want something that is going to make setup easier not more difficult :confused:
Now I wonder if I can get her to swing for a generator also :D
I've never had to dig a trench :confused: . I suppose if you were in the sand or real rough terrain, you might have to clear some debris to allow the arms to slide under the front and back of the tire. I've just never had to do that. I have 13" wheels. Maybe 14" or 15" wheels or under-inflated tires might make it a bit more difficult.
Quote from: PLJThanks for the links.
I saw on some of the reviews that some people had to dig trenches to use them. ..... :D
That sounds like a member of the Plastic Block or Wood user groups spreading defaming information! :p
My Bals, (I use both the leveler and the chock), have never needed trenching. I have camped on snow, sand, gravel, dirt, grass, and mud. BTW, I highly do not recommend mud!! :D
I bought my BAL leveler from Cabalea's on line. It was about the same price as it is in the PUX trading post but the shipping was a lot less so I saved about $15.00 or so on it. I have used it every time we camped since I got it and it is one of the best things I have gotten for the camper.
P bought one for my evolution,but my 15" all terrain tires were to big for it.I think I'm going to e-mail bal and suggest they build a larger one since more of the all terrain pu's are being built.
I bought mine from camping world when it was on sale and they had $1 shipping. I think they are having the shipping special now, but you have to spend $75 to get it.:)
I bought mine from JC Whitney several years ago. I used it all the time for the first year or two, now I use the plastic Lynx blocks. Just as quick and easy as cranking the BAL up and a lot lighter and less space. Make sure your tire size is within specs. I used it on a Jayco which has 12" rims and there was not enough metal to tire contact and the BAL would kick out when raised more than a few inches! I believe it's for 13" & 14", but that's from memory, so check it out!
I have purchased two levelers in the past few years.
The first one I bought for my PU was back in 2003, and I paid $ 62.00 from our local RV dealer. (Peco, Tucker, GA)
The second one I bought as a Christmas gift for our DD and SIL for their PU, and I purchased that one from the PUX Trading Post back in November for around $ 72.00 delivered.
For ease of mind, I had extra weld points added to prevent the "dreaded" weld snapping issues that plagued some of these models.
Also, keep the screw, pinion, and cup clean and well greased. I clean and grease mine every third or fourth trip. I have used mine for at least 30 trips, and has always worked perfectly for me.
As for the tire size, my Mesa has 24" outer diameter tires, and it fits perfectly. I typically camp at sites with paved drives and pads, and have never had an issue sliding the leveler around the tire. I have read that some people take along a section of plywood and drive the low side tire on top of the board, and then slide the leveler around the tire. I also keep the recommended 65 lbs. tire pressure in them so that they are not flattened out at the bottom.
IMHO, this is one of the best ways to level and chock the low side wheel. I used wood blocks for my first thirteen years of camping with a PU, and the past three years using the BAL leveler. I gotta say the leveler is by far the easiest, most accurate, and most secure of the two.
Quote from: garym053I bought mine from JC Whitney several years ago. I used it all the time for the first year or two, now I use the plastic Lynx blocks. Just as quick and easy as cranking the BAL up and a lot lighter and less space. Make sure your tire size is within specs. I used it on a Jayco which has 12" rims and there was not enough metal to tire contact and the BAL would kick out when raised more than a few inches! I believe it's for 13" & 14", but that's from memory, so check it out!
Gary, you are the first I've heard of that went backwards: from the BAL leveler, to the Lynx Levelers.
I have threatened to get a BAL, but we have never had significant problems with the Lynxes. I think I must guess pretty accurately how many we'll need, and then Holly does a great job telling me when to stop, when backing onto them.
Larry...ongoing member of the ugly orange levelers club
Quote from: brainpauseGary, you are the first I've heard of that went backwards: from the BAL leveler, to the Lynx Levelers.
I have threatened to get a BAL, but we have never had significant problems with the Lynxes. I think I must guess pretty accurately how many we'll need, and then Holly does a great job telling me when to stop, when backing onto them.
Larry...ongoing member of the ugly orange levelers club
That's one of the best features of the Bal leveler. You can unhook your trailer and maneuver it exactly where you want it,
by hand. Then, level it in that spot. It takes a lot of hassle out of backing onto blocks with the tow vehicle. That always takes 2 people, guessing and good communication. Could get a little stressful at times, I would imagine.
I'm sure that some of you pride yourselves in your backing skills (as do I). I sometimes want to put my PU in the campsite at a 90 degree angle or some other way that you couldn't possibly back into. The Bal leveler gives me that flexibility. I just unhook the trailer and push it around by hand then put the Bal leveler under the low side.
On the other hand (as someone else said) that thing is big, heavy and hard to stow. You also have to remember to remove it before you take off (ooops! :p ). You also have to crank that thing with a wrench, sometimes, a
LOT. I use my electric drill motor and a socket, instead of the ratchet wrench that they provide (another expense). That makes it a lot easier to use (for me).
There are pros and cons to everything in camping and one size does not always fit all, that's for sure.
Yep, Larry!
Found I could back in, judge the number of blocks needed, pull ahead a few feet, blocks down, and back on blocks and be level, faster and easier than getting the BAL out, under the tire and cranked up! As far as I'm concerned, if it doesn't save time, why use it?
I'd be willing to sell it, but shipping would probably be expensive.
Another useful feature of the BAL leveler not yet mentioned here is that it makes the camper a little more "solid" feeling and cuts out on the "wiggle". Used in conjunction with the BAL wheel chock, it's even more solid. We've camped on sites where the leveler was difficult to slid under the tire (mostly sandy sites) and all I do is back the camper onto one lynx block. The BAL will straddle the block and raise it normally.
As far as storage, I've made a rear bumper mount that's worked well so far...pictures are on my Webshots site.
Quote from: SkipPAnother useful feature of the BAL leveler not yet mentioned here is that it makes the camper a little more "solid" feeling and cuts out on the "wiggle". Used in conjunction with the BAL wheel chock, it's even more solid. We've camped on sites where the leveler was difficult to slid under the tire (mostly sandy sites) and all I do is back the camper onto one lynx block. The BAL will straddle the block and raise it normally.
I agree about the "solid" feeling. I keep an extra 12"-square piece of plywood in the PU. I've just made it a habit to put it under the low-side tire before using the BAL.
I don't have anybody to watch and guide me onto wood or Lynx blocks ~ especially if the pile gets too tall. The BAL makes it really easy for me to level the trailer by myself.
Quote from: waveryThat's one of the best features of the Bal leveler. You can unhook your trailer and maneuver it exactly where you want it, by hand.
Well it depends of on how much your trailer weighs, if it has a tongue wheel and what the surface of the campsite is. My trailer doesn't roll very easily on dirt/gravel/grass or if we are on a slope I wouldn't attempt it. If I have a paved site level site I can move it by hand.:)
Quote from: tlhdocIf I have a paved site level site I can move it by hand.:)
None of that for us. That's why I have a trailer hitch. :) Rarely do I want to do something besides back straight in, and on the one or two occasions I did something different, I was able to do it with the trailer still hooked up.
Larry
Quote from: brainpauseNone of that for us. That's why I have a trailer hitch. :) Rarely do I want to do something besides back straight in, and on the one or two occasions I did something different, I was able to do it with the trailer still hooked up.
Larry I rolled my trailer this past Monday when I needed to move my trailer into a car parking spot at a truck frame/alignment place. I don't roll the trailer at a campsite. I also back it in and park it.:)
Quote from: tlhdocLarry I rolled my trailer this past Monday when I needed to move my trailer into a car parking spot at a truck frame/alignment place. I don't roll the trailer at a campsite. I also back it in and park it.:)
I guess there is a remote chance I would do more maneuvering of the camper into interesting setups, if the roller wheel would stay on. :)
Also, it helps if the roller wheel actually rolls.:p It's gummed up pretty bad, and it hasn't bothered me enough to clean it and regrease it.
Larry