New to pop-ups here.
We have a 2003 viking 1906st. I know it has a 30 amp plug. We also have the accessory piece to plug in to any outlet, which we do at home when we need some electric service. I have used the air at home as well, and it doesn't work as good, but it never blows a circuit or anything.
So, here is my question. We want to go camping (3rd time) Memorial weekend, and they have pop-up / tent sites available with REGULAR electricity. They are booked for 30 amp sites. They also have 50 amp sites available for the larger RV's.
Would it be ok to plug into the regular outlet and use the air, if needed. Most of the days we will be out and about and wouldn't need the air, but we know how hot it can get. I also had another question. Our last 2 camping experiences the electric was 50 amp (20 amp switch and 30 amp switch). I only turned on the 30 amp switch. I wasn't sure if adding both would blow a fuse or something.
Anyway, if anybody can help me with the electricity dilemma I would appreciate it. I am not very good at electrical questions.
Thanks
Quote from: movein69New to pop-ups here.
We have a 2003 viking 1906st. I know it has a 30 amp plug. We also have the accessory piece to plug in to any outlet, which we do at home when we need some electric service. I have used the air at home as well, and it doesn't work as good, but it never blows a circuit or anything.
So, here is my question. We want to go camping (3rd time) Memorial weekend, and they have pop-up / tent sites available with REGULAR electricity. They are booked for 30 amp sites. They also have 50 amp sites available for the larger RV's.
Would it be ok to plug into the regular outlet and use the air, if needed. Most of the days we will be out and about and wouldn't need the air, but we know how hot it can get. I also had another question. Our last 2 camping experiences the electric was 50 amp (20 amp switch and 30 amp switch). I only turned on the 30 amp switch. I wasn't sure if adding both would blow a fuse or something.
Anyway, if anybody can help me with the electricity dilemma I would appreciate it. I am not very good at electrical questions.
Thanks
If you get a site that has only one 15amp outlet (like at home), you will be fine with the A/C. The kicker is, if you then turn on the coffee pot or microwave or hair dryer or anything else that has a fairly heavy draw, you may trip the circuit breaker. If you do.....big deal....turn off all the other stuff, wait 5 minutes and turn the breaker back on.
Now.....if you are lucky enough to get a site with two 15amp outlets, plug the A/C in the other outlet with a maximum of 25' long 12g extension cord or a 50' long 10g extension cord (it should be marked right on the extension cord). That will leave the other outlet to run everything else.
You may want to plug the A/C in directly (with an extension cord) anyway. It probably won't trip a 15amp breaker that way.
You can buy 10g extension cords at Home Depot. I got a 25' one the other day for $14. They are nice to have along when you have A/C.
Quote from: movein69New to pop-ups here.
We have a 2003 viking 1906st. I know it has a 30 amp plug. We also have the accessory piece to plug in to any outlet, which we do at home when we need some electric service. I have used the air at home as well, and it doesn't work as good, but it never blows a circuit or anything.
So, here is my question. We want to go camping (3rd time) Memorial weekend, and they have pop-up / tent sites available with REGULAR electricity. They are booked for 30 amp sites. They also have 50 amp sites available for the larger RV's.
Would it be ok to plug into the regular outlet and use the air, if needed. Most of the days we will be out and about and wouldn't need the air, but we know how hot it can get. I also had another question. Our last 2 camping experiences the electric was 50 amp (20 amp switch and 30 amp switch). I only turned on the 30 amp switch. I wasn't sure if adding both would blow a fuse or something.
Anyway, if anybody can help me with the electricity dilemma I would appreciate it. I am not very good at electrical questions.
Thanks
If you get a site that has only one 15amp outlet (like at home), you will be fine with the A/C. The kicker is, if you then turn on the coffee pot or microwave or hair dryer or anything else that has a fairly heavy draw, you may trip the circuit breaker. If you do.....big deal....turn off all the other stuff, wait 5 minutes and turn the breaker back on.
Now.....if you are lucky enough to get a site with two 15amp outlets, plug the A/C in the other outlet with a maximum of 25' long 12g extension cord or a 50' long 10g extension cord (it should be marked right on the extension cord). That will leave the other outlet to run everything else.
You may want to plug the A/C in directly (with an extension cord) anyway. It probably won't trip a 15amp breaker that way.
You can buy 10g extension cords at Home Depot. I got a 25' one the other day for $14. They are nice to have along when you have A/C.
Quote from: waveryIf you get a site that has only one 15amp outlet (like at home), you will be fine with the A/C. The kicker is, if you then turn on the coffee pot or microwave or hair dryer or anything else that has a fairly heavy draw, you may trip the circuit breaker. If you do.....big deal....turn off all the other stuff, wait 5 minutes and turn the breaker back on.
Now.....if you are lucky enough to get a site with two 15amp outlets, plug the A/C in the other outlet with a maximum of 25' long 12g extension cord or a 50' long 10g extension cord (it should be marked right on the extension cord). That will leave the other outlet to run everything else.
You may want to plug the A/C in directly (with an extension cord) anyway. It probably won't trip a 15amp breaker that way.
You can buy 10g extension cords at Home Depot. I got a 25' one the other day for $14. They are nice to have along when you have A/C.
Ok sounds good and thanks for your reply. One more quest... I thought the A/C was somehow hardwired into the 30 amp plug. If so, how would I only plug in the A/C to an outlet by itself? Maybe I am thinking wrong though.
Quote from: movein69Ok sounds good and thanks for your reply. One more quest... I thought the A/C was somehow hardwired into the 30 amp plug. If so, how would I only plug in the A/C to an outlet by itself? Maybe I am thinking wrong though.
Oh, and do you know about the 20amp/30 amp switches. Can you turn them both on even though you are only drawing 30amps?
Quote from: movein69Oh, and do you know about the 20amp/30 amp switches. Can you turn them both on even though you are only drawing 30amps?
Yes, you can turn them both on. the load rating is a
maximum load rating. You can plug a 100w light bulb (which is 1 amp) into a 10amp service or a 50 amp service. You just can't plug a 30amp load into a 20amp service.
Having said that, I doubt very much that you need more than a 30amp service for your PU unless you have a large A/C unit and you are running the microwave, toaster and hair dryer all at the same time. :D
Quote from: movein69One more quest... I thought the A/C was somehow hardwired into the 30 amp plug. If so, how would I only plug in the A/C to an outlet by itself?
To answer this question: Some campers have what appears to be a "hard-wired" appliance... when, in truth, there is a hidden regular-looking electrical outlet that the appliance is plugged into.
For example, on our former Coleman Niagara PUP, the under the outside removable panel for the fridge control, was an outlet. The fridge was just plugged into it. We could have unplugged it from there, and plugged the very short cord into an extension cord to run the fridge off a separate circuit. The Niagara's AC also had a separate plug, so I could unplug the AC and plug it into an extension cord.
Quote from: movein69Ok sounds good and thanks for your reply. One more quest... I thought the A/C was somehow hardwired into the 30 amp plug. If so, how would I only plug in the A/C to an outlet by itself? Maybe I am thinking wrong though.
It depends on who wired your AC unit. Some are hard wired, or the cord is long enough to leave it plugged in all of the time. Others have a cord with a plug on the end of it, that you have to plug in all of the time.:)
Quote from: tlhdocIt depends on who wired your AC unit. Some are hard wired, or the cord is long enough to leave it plugged in all of the time. Others have a cord with a plug on the end of it, that you have to plug in all of the time.:)
HMMMM!! I suppose that it may be possible to hard wire the A/C on a PU but I just can't imagine it. I've only seen ones with a cord that you un-plug before popping down. That doesn't mean that they aren't out there. It just seems rather difficult to do and possibly dangerous.
Quote from: movein69We have a 2003 viking 1906st. I know it has a 30 amp plug. We also have the accessory piece to plug in to any outlet, which we do at home when we need some electric service. I have used the air at home as well, and it doesn't work as good, but it never blows a circuit or anything.
If the AC unit is not working as good at home as it does when the camper is plugged into a 30 amp outlet, you might not be getting enough power to the AC unit when plugged into a 15 amp outlet. Under powering it is very hard on the AC unit and can cause repair bills down the road. Find out how many amps your AC unit draws. It may be ok plugged into a 15 amp outlet, and it may not be ok. They are wired for a 20 amp outlet usually. You can get a 50 to 30 amp adapter if you camp with a 50 amp hookup. If you are drawing more than 15 amps thought the 30 to 15 amp adapter you can end up melting the adapter and having a fire.
Check with the campground. The regular outlets may be 20 amp and you would be ok to run the AC unit there. I would plug it in directly if you can. Have a good trip.:)
Quote from: waveryHMMMM!! I suppose that it may be possible to hard wire the A/C on a PU but I just can't imagine it. I've only seen ones with a cord that you un-plug before popping down. That doesn't mean that they aren't out there. It just seems rather difficult to do and possibly dangerous.
I am not an electrician, but my guess is that you run the AC wires to the 20 amp circuit on the power converter and there you have it. A hard wired AC unit. You plug the AC unit into the 20 amp outlet, so I don't see why it would be more dangerous.
Also get yourself some sort of voltage checker. An air conditioner run on reduced voltage can self destruct. Figure 110 volts as an ABSOLUTE minimum.
Quote from: tlhdocI am not an electrician, but my guess is that you run the AC wires to the 20 amp circuit on the power converter and there you have it. A hard wired AC unit. You plug the AC unit into the 20 amp outlet, so I don't see why it would be more dangerous.
Well I can tell you now that mine is hard wired in. The refrigerator is done exactly how the one poster said. I can unplug it and use an extension cord. I have a suburban a/c. The book I have shows how to hook it up and it shows it being hard wired, so I don't know.
I have used the air on my own socket and never had any problems. Maybe I can run the refrig only on the one socket and plug in the refrigerator to another socket. I know when we tent camped all the time there was at least 2 sockets to plug in.
Quote from: tlhdocI am not an electrician, but my guess is that you run the AC wires to the 20 amp circuit on the power converter and there you have it. A hard wired AC unit. You plug the AC unit into the 20 amp outlet, so I don't see why it would be more dangerous.
I just can't imagine how they would run the wiring so that it would be safe and not suffer damage when you crank up & down :confused: .
Maybe movein69 can help me understand that :D .
Quote from: waveryI just can't imagine how they would run the wiring so that it would be safe and not suffer damage when you crank up & down :confused: .
Maybe movein69 can help me understand that :D .
Well - under one of my seat is where the water tank is. The A/C has a black cord coming down the wall going under the seat (a piece of the wood is cut out to allow for this)... The black cord runs into this white box that has a label on it saying this box is for the a/c unit only. Then another white cord comes out of this box and connects to the converter. When we lower or raise the PUP it doesn't matter because all the wiring is under the seat. Under this same seat is where the shore line electrical plug is stored as well.
Quote from: mike4947Also get yourself some sort of voltage checker. An air conditioner run on reduced voltage can self destruct. Figure 110 volts as an ABSOLUTE minimum.
Isn't the typical outlet 110V or 120V???? Just curious why I would need a voltage checker if this was the case.
Quote from: movein69Well - under one of my seat is where the water tank is. The A/C has a black cord coming down the wall going under the seat (a piece of the wood is cut out to allow for this)... The black cord runs into this white box that has a label on it saying this box is for the a/c unit only. Then another white cord comes out of this box and connects to the converter. When we lower or raise the PUP it doesn't matter because all the wiring is under the seat. Under this same seat is where the shore line electrical plug is stored as well.
OK....I got that part. What I am wondering is how the wiring is routed to the roof. Is it out in the open or do they run it inside of one of the lift supports? Either way seems rather hazardous to me. I'm just curious :confused: .
The outlets are 110v-120v. It is good to have a volt meter along to check the actual voltage that you are getting from the CG service. Some CGs do not have enough service to meet the high demand of a lot of AC units running on a hot day. Therefore, if the demand exceeds the supply, the result is lower voltage to everyone. If you check the voltage and it reads below 110v, your AC compressor won't have enough power to work properly and will have to struggle to start. This often results in shorter compressor life. IMO, you really don't start getting in trouble until it drops below 105v.
Quote from: waveryOK....I got that part. What I am wondering is how the wiring is routed to the roof. Is it out in the open or do they run it inside of one of the lift supports? Either way seems rather hazardous to me. I'm just curious :confused: .
The outlets are 110v-120v. It is good to have a volt meter along to check the actual voltage that you are getting from the CG service. Some CGs do not have enough service to meet the high demand of a lot of AC units running on a hot day. Therefore, if the demand exceeds the supply, the result is lower voltage to everyone. If you check the voltage and it reads below 110v, your AC compressor won't have enough power to work properly and will have to struggle to start. This often results in shorter compressor life. IMO, you really don't start getting in trouble until it drops below 105v.
Gotcha on the outlets. Now on your question, the cord from the A/C is under a piece of strip that is glued on to the roof, so it cannot move. It goes from the center of the ac to one of the sides. Then the cord from the top side does just fall down towards the seat, but the curtains and stuff keeps it from being in the way. It goes nowhere near the lift supports. Our lift supports are on the outside of the tent portion. We can't even see them inside.
By the way, you said you unplug your ac before putting down, where do you put the cord? I would think your way of doing it could eventually hurt the cord more. I guess what I don't understand is why you think it would be unsafe.
Now, what I also don't know is if our 2003 PUP was factory installed this way or if the people we bought it from did this. We have the books, but that doesn't mean anything.
I got a new question but I will make another thread.
Quote from: movein69Gotcha on the outlets. Now on your question, the cord from the A/C is under a piece of strip that is glued on to the roof, so it cannot move. It goes from the center of the ac to one of the sides. Then the cord from the top side does just fall down towards the seat, but the curtains and stuff keeps it from being in the way. It goes nowhere near the lift supports. Our lift supports are on the outside of the tent portion. We can't even see them inside.
By the way, you said you unplug your ac before putting down, where do you put the cord? I would think your way of doing it could eventually hurt the cord more. I guess what I don't understand is why you think it would be unsafe.
Now, what I also don't know is if our 2003 PUP was factory installed this way or if the people we bought it from did this. We have the books, but that doesn't mean anything.
I got a new question but I will make another thread.
On my AC the cord runs from the AC unit, through the roof brace. It comes out at the side of the roof. It is bundled up and retained with a Velcro wrap. When we want to use the AC, we undo the Velcro wrap and extend the cord straight down to an outlet that is specially designed for the AC only.
The only thing that seems a
little hazardous to me is that a permanently wired cord could have the possibility of hanging up on something while lifting or getting pinched or cut by something while lowering or towing. Maybe I am just not understanding how it is routed. It seems what you are describing is that it just sorta hangs out there. Maybe I'm picturing it wrong :p .
On my PU, I prefer it being on a cord. That way, I can plug it directly into my Honda EU2000I generator and it works OK (just barely). When I run it through the camper wiring, all of the additional connections, circuit breaker and converter add just enough resistance that my AC won't run properly from my generator power.
Quote from: waveryOn my AC the cord runs from the AC unit, through the roof brace. It comes out at the side of the roof. It is bundled up and retained with a Velcro wrap. When we want to use the AC, we undo the Velcro wrap and extend the cord straight down to an outlet that is specially designed for the AC only.
The only thing that seems a little hazardous to me is that a permanently wired cord could have the possibility of hanging up on something while lifting or getting pinched or cut by something while lowering or towing. Maybe I am just not understanding how it is routed. It seems what you are describing is that it just sorta hangs out there. Maybe I'm picturing it wrong :p .
On my PU, I prefer it being on a cord. That way, I can plug it directly into my Honda EU2000I generator and it works OK (just barely). When I run it through the camper wiring, all of the additional connections, circuit breaker and converter add just enough resistance that my AC won't run properly from my generator power.
I see. Other than the "something else you gotta do" portion of it, I too would rather it be a plug in I guess. Especially in the situation I will be in Then I could decide what to do. But it isn't, so I have to deal with it. The cord is a THICK and HEAVY black cord (almost like the shoreline one). It is so heavy that it doesn't move easily. It only comes down from the side. I guess you'd have to see it and experience it to realize it never even crossed my mind as it being hazardous. Nothing inside the PUP could hurt it. The only thing that could happen (although remote) is it getting stuck between the roof and bottom when lowering.
Quote from: movein69I see. Other than the "something else you gotta do" portion of it, I too would rather it be a plug in I guess. Especially in the situation I will be in Then I could decide what to do. But it isn't, so I have to deal with it. The cord is a THICK and HEAVY black cord (almost like the shoreline one). It is so heavy that it doesn't move easily. It only comes down from the side. I guess you'd have to see it and experience it to realize it never even crossed my mind as it being hazardous. Nothing inside the PUP could hurt it. The only thing that could happen (although remote) is it getting stuck between the roof and bottom when lowering.
When I say, "Hazardous", please don't get me wrong. I don't mean hazardous to humans in any way :p . I was just thinking of the hazards that the cord itself may encounter :D .
Ya, I guess if the cord is as heavy as the shoreline cord to the PU, it must just bend in half and find it's way to the same spot each time. I guess that I was thinking of a lighter cord that might tangle in something or get crushed in the roof. Thanks for explaining :D .
I use the AC so rarely, that my cord really isn't on the "To-do list" :p . In fact, I sometimes wonder why I have it at all. If it wasn't such a pain to remove, I would take it off in October and reinstall it the following May. Maybe I'll find out why I have it when we go to Yosemite at the end of June.
Quote from: waveryWhen I say, "Hazardous", please don't get me wrong. I don't mean hazardous to humans in any way :p . I was just thinking of the hazards that the cord itself may encounter :D .
Ya, I guess if the cord is as heavy as the shoreline cord to the PU, it must just bend in half and find it's way to the same spot each time. I guess that I was thinking of a lighter cord that might tangle in something or get crushed in the roof. Thanks for explaining :D .
I use the AC so rarely, that my cord really isn't on the "To-do list" :p . In fact, I sometimes wonder why I have it at all. If it wasn't such a pain to remove, I would take it off in October and reinstall it the following May. Maybe I'll find out why I have it when we go to Yosemite at the end of June.
Well not sure how CA weather is, but I am on the opposite side of the country and in the south. Here the weather gets extremely hot in the summer, so an A/C is a must.
Quote from: tlhdocI am not an electrician, but my guess is that you run the AC wires to the 20 amp circuit on the power converter and there you have it. A hard wired AC unit. You plug the AC unit into the 20 amp outlet, so I don't see why it would be more dangerous.
I think the issue becomes "what happens when it's popped down?"
Can the wires get pinched (probably), or the AC be come powered up (possibly)?
Otherwise, it wouldn't be a problem.
UPS's and other battery backups notwithstanding, pulling the plug is the ultimate "off" switch.
Austin
Quote from: movein69Well - under one of my seat is where the water tank is. The A/C has a black cord coming down the wall going under the seat (a piece of the wood is cut out to allow for this)... The black cord runs into this white box that has a label on it saying this box is for the a/c unit only. Then another white cord comes out of this box and connects to the converter. When we lower or raise the PUP it doesn't matter because all the wiring is under the seat. Under this same seat is where the shore line electrical plug is stored as well.
A friend of mine also has a PU that has the AC unit hard wired. They have never had a problem with it. I don't think you have anything to worry about. :)
Before I had to get a replacement roof for my PU, I used to leave my AC cord plugged in all of the time. I can't do it now, because the great minds at Fleetwood moved the location for the AC unit behind the axel (it takes weight off of the tongue) in my new roof. On my old roof the AC was located above the axel and my cord was able to reach the 20 amp outlet. A friend of mine leaves their AC cord plugged in all of the time too. My wire would go from the AC unit, down between the pushed in bunkends to the 20 amp outlet located near the converter (under a dinette seat). For those of you that think wiring going between the roof and the box is dangerous, keep in mind that there are 12 volt wires doing that on all of the campers that have ceiling lights in them. I know they are only 12 volt and not a 110 line, BUT they are a much lighter wire than my AC cord is. I haven't had a 12 volt wire damaged yet and never had a problem with my AC cord being damaged or hanging up during the popup or tearing down of the camper.
Just because it is done different, doesn't mean that it is wrong or dangerous!!!
:)
PS: Austin the only time my camper is plugged into an outlet is when we are camping, so I don't have any fear of the AC coming on when the camper is popped down. If I am precooling the fridge I use an extension cord.
My a/c cord is plugged in at all times too. The cord comes from the a/c, is supported by ceiling hookie things, and runs across by the center brace, then down a fabric sleeve along with 12 volt lines, then down by the dinnett seat and then into the outlet. My Jayco was the same way. Never had any problem what so ever with the cord in either one of the campers. My sisters a/c is hardwired and she has never had any problems either. Just goes to show you that you can do things differently and still have the same results.
Quote from: HersheyGirlMy a/c cord is plugged in at all times too. The cord comes from the a/c, is supported by ceiling hookie things, and runs across by the center brace, then down a fabric sleeve along with 12 volt lines, then down by the dinnett seat and then into the outlet. My Jayco was the same way. Never had any problem what so ever with the cord in either one of the campers. My sisters a/c is hardwired and she has never had any problems either. Just goes to show you that you can do things differently and still have the same results.
One comment - I said in an earilier post I had a suburban A/C... that is WRONG - I have a suburban furnace and an Air V A/C. I felt I needed to correct that.
Quote from: movein69One comment - I said in an earilier post I had a suburban A/C... that is WRONG - I have a suburban furnace and an Air V A/C. I felt I needed to correct that.
The Carrier Air V is the same AC unit that I have. Did you get yours with the heat option? I have used the heat on more trips than I have the cooling side of the AC unit.:)
Quote from: tlhdocThe Carrier Air V is the same AC unit that I have. Did you get yours with the heat option? I have used the heat on more trips than I have the cooling side of the AC unit.:)
Unfortunately mine only has fan and a/c. We have the furnace, but I brougt a small electric heater last trip. Good thing because it got cold here in the south so we had to use it.
Quote from: movein69Unfortunately mine only has fan and a/c. We have the furnace, but I brougt a small electric heater last trip. Good thing because it got cold here in the south so we had to use it.
You can purchase "heat strips" to add into your AC unit. I put some on mine this past Feb, and it was a great upgrade ($70 from Camping World)-- the heater on the floor/table was such a tempting thing for the baby to play with. Plus, that did not "push" the heat out into the bunks like the AC unit can. The heat strips came with a new control dial that has "low heatheat" (my previous dial had 2 "low fan" settings, so it replaced one).
There are those that dislike heat strips, saying they are useless, etc. They are 1500 watts - but may feel "cooler" because so much more air is being passed over them than a small 1500-watt heater...
Quote from: zamboniYou can purchase "heat strips" to add into your AC unit.
Not for the Carrier Air V. You have to buy an entire new inside unit if you want to upgrade to heat from no heat. That is why I recommend to everyone that is getting AC added to a trailer to get the Carrier Air V with the heat option. It is only about $50 more than the no heat option.:)
Quote from: movein69Unfortunately mine only has fan and a/c. We have the furnace, but I brougt a small electric heater last trip. Good thing because it got cold here in the south so we had to use it.
If you are cold in your bunkends, try running the Air V on fan to help circulate the hot air that tends to collect at the top of the box.:)
Quote from: tlhdocIf you are cold in your bunkends, try running the Air V on fan to help circulate the hot air that tends to collect at the top of the box.:)
Wow - never thought of that. You don't think running the fan in cold air outside would make it colder inside?
Quote from: movein69Wow - never thought of that. You don't think running the fan in cold air outside would make it colder inside?
The fan doesn't bring in outside air. It only blows the air in the camper. If you are sitting where the fan is blowing it will make you cold, but if you adjust the vents so that they are blowing into the bunkends, the camper will get warmer. The heat doesn't like to move into the bunkends and the hot air collects near the ceiling. The fan will get the warm air where you need it. You could also use the "air shower" feature to blow the warm air down toward the floor.:)
Quote from: tlhdocThe fan doesn't bring in outside air. It only blows the air in the camper. If you are sitting where the fan is blowing it will make you cold, but if you adjust the vents so that they are blowing into the bunkends, the camper will get warmer. The heat doesn't like to move into the bunkends and the hot air collects near the ceiling. The fan will get the warm air where you need it. You could also use the "air shower" feature to blow the warm air down toward the floor.:)
Thanks, that should help then. Our PUP is small and when we had to use the electric heater, it worked perfectly (like 45 degrees out). - even the bunk ends. Could that have to do with the material at all - or maybe just the size? I know ours has either the breathable or non breathable material (the one that causes condensation)
The size of the PU makes a big difference. The smaller the PU the warmer the heater will make it.:)