Do you need to use something on the hitch ball to protect it before you attach to the PUP coupler? Some kind of lube or grease perhaps.
Also is WD40 fine to spray on the electrical connectors to help keep the moisture out and avoid corrision issues?
thanks
I just use wheel bearing grease on mine. CW has "Special" grease for the hitchball but it's probably the same thing. Haven't heard about the WD-40 on electrical connections.
I'd just use some bearing grease on the hitchball also.
For what it's worth, back in the day, when my distributor would get wet in my '63 rambler, I'd pull the cap and spray it with WD40 to remove the moisture. So I believe that maybe it would be ok to use on the electrical trailer plug, but never have used it myself.
Allan
WD-40 is OK for electrical connections. But when I was a tow truck driver / mechanic in my younger years we used CRC 5:56 to spray on ignition wires and under the distributor cap. We bought it by the gallon jug and just put it in spray bottles. If that didn't work we towed the car in to be worked on in the garage. But MOST times it started that wet engine.
I have towed for over 30 years and have logged THOUSANDS of miles and have NEVER lubed my hitch ball. There is no need to and it just makes a mess and attracts DIRT.
Just because some one got lucky and didn't have a problem doesn't mean it shouldn't be done. The ball to coupler is a metal to metal moving connection and as such should have some kind of lubrication. Most any lubricant will work better than nothing. If it's grease getting on your clothes that worries you, buy a 2 dollar ball cover.
As for what to use on electrical connection such as the TV/trailer plug it's dielectric grease. It repels water and prevents corresion better than any spray and give you a fighting chance on not having problems between yearly maintenance of the plug/outlet. It's available at most auto parts stores or Radio Shacks.
Thanks. I need to use something as the hitch and coupler makes a dreadful noise every time I turn.
Peter, if you go to Wal-Mart in there RV section, which is by automotive, they sell a white grease especially for the ball on the hitch, it cost around $2.50. It will help with your problem...........Ed :sombraro:
There is something far better than anything gooey for your hitch.
Wax paper (a.k.a. cut-rite) is the only way to go. Wax paper is actually coated with parafin, not wax. Parafin is a petroleum distillate (oil) that is a solid at room temperature. It is as good a lubricant as any other petroleum distillate (i.e grease) without the mess.
Tear off a square from the roll, fold it in half & in half, and wrap it around the ball before connecting. When you arive, throw it in the trash (or in the fire).
No mess, and a more than adequately lubed ball.
Austin
When you lube your hitch ball, you don't have to put a lot on. Put enough to cover the ball, then wipe it off with a rag. It leaves enough film to do the job but not enough to mess your clothes.. :D
I asked our dealer about lubing the hitch ball shortly after buying our pup. His reply was something to the effect of: What do you want to do something like that for? The only thing that's good for is getting grease on your pants. Since then, if I've felt a need, I've used silicone spray on it. I've not had any noise come from it in turns or otherwise.
I have heard that the WD in WD 40 does stand for water displacement. 40 happened to be the number of tries before the formula was perfected. I think it works great for that purpose and general lubrication. There are better products for water proofing or corrosion resistance as mentioned in other replies.
First question, I use white lithium grease aerosol spray on the hitch ball and the threads of the stabalizing jacks. The only thing that seems to lubricate the screw in the nose wheel is several squirts of WD 40. I gets down through the small crack.
Regarding the plug and receptacle: Dielectric grease. Before using it clean all coorosion from the contacts with either a contact file (some electric stores still have them) or an emery board. Then spray contact cleaner on the metal parts to finish the job. Now, apply the dielectric grease. The connection will be trouble free.
Bob
I use some Reese teflon white grease for the ball. But I've also used wheel bearing grease and petroleum jelly.
I put it on just prior to hooking up, and take a paper towel or napkin and wipe it off when uncoupling. No rust, no mess.
With 4 kids running around, they are bound to find the hitch on the back of the truck, and somehow get grease on their hands, face and clothes, so I second Austin Boston's WAX PAPER idea. Nice dry ball at the campground, and no fear of me or the kids getting any grease stains.
I keep a few squares in the trailer, and use one every trip. Eliminated the noise from the hitch.
Quote from: CampaholicsFirst question, I use white lithium grease aerosol spray on the hitch ball and the threads of the stabalizing jacks. The only thing that seems to lubricate the screw in the nose wheel is several squirts of WD 40. I gets down through the small crack.
Regarding the plug and receptacle: Dielectric grease. Before using it clean all coorosion from the contacts with either a contact file (some electric stores still have them) or an emery board. Then spray contact cleaner on the metal parts to finish the job. Now, apply the dielectric grease. The connection will be trouble free.
Bob
IMHO WD40 should not be used for lubrication. It is a decent cleaning agent and a good water dispersing agent. It has so much solvent in it that it's lubricating properties are questionable at best. What little oil that is in the WD40 is mostly washed away or quickly evaporates with the solvents. The reason that it tends to stop squeaks is not because of it's lubricating qualities. It is due to it's ability to wash away foreign matter.
You would be
FAR better off lubing the "screw in the nose wheel" with your spray lithium grease, after spraying with the WD40 (to clean it).
Don't get me wrong, I wouldn't be caught without my trusty can of WD40. It has it's place, it's place just isn't for use in lubricating lifting devices or any other place where you have heavy, metal-to-metal moving parts (IMO).
Just to be fair to WD-40 and those who use and like it, I have heard for several years now that it's not good for a lubricant or it's not good for this or that. And my favorite is it is not good for protecting firearms. Well let me say I have used it on my gun collection to lubricate and PROTECT my VERY EXPENSIVE collection for more than 30 years now and have NEVER had a firearm fail or rust or corrode in ANY way shape or form. I am starting to believe these rumors are started by the makers of the MORE expensive oils on the market. :)
Way back in the days of my youth, i.e., home on the farm, we had several farm implements, trailers, manure spreaders (which my friends say I spent too much time on) - we would flat wear out hitch balls and couplers. To lube them gave them extended life. All we ever used (and I still do to this day), is just a dab of axle grease once around the the top of the ball (not too much!) - true, it's nasty stuff if you forget to wipe off the ball after you unhitch and manage to brush up against it with your pant leg! But the fact is, lubbing gives extended life.
Fly
My DH insists on lubing the hitch ball and has pointed out to some of our friends the chewed up metal on thier hitch ball from not lubing it. Yes, we've had one incident of our daughter walking into it when she was young and getting grease on her pants (always carry a stain stick in case you can't wash them right away), but that's not a big deal IMHO. I'll mention the wax paper to him. If it works, that would be a great alternative.
My 1976 Starcraft owners manual says to use "Hitch ball lube" or a chip of soap to lube the ball. I like to use the soap because it works and smells nice(Irish spring).
I'm glad I read this thread, while I don't have a problem with my camper, my horse trailer is another issues, different hitch, and when I crank thr trailer to get it off the ball, it just doesn't want to release! I think I will try the wax paper first and see what happens!
Thanks
Quote from: CTCamperI'm glad I read this thread, while I don't have a problem with my camper, my horse trailer is another issues, different hitch, and when I crank thr trailer to get it off the ball, it just doesn't want to release! I think I will try the wax paper first and see what happens!
That could be an improperly adjusted coupler. Do you have a hard time getting it all the way on as well?
Austin
Will any waxpaper work for lubing the hitch? Is the amount of wax paper you use like 6" square? Is there something to look for in terms of ingredients in choosing the proper waxpaper?
Quote from: CTCamperI'm glad I read this thread, while I don't have a problem with my camper, my horse trailer is another issues, different hitch, and when I crank thr trailer to get it off the ball, it just doesn't want to release! I think I will try the wax paper first and see what happens!
Thanks
Does your horse trailer have electric brakes? Or surge brakes? Sometimes the surge brakes can make it a little tougher getting released, especially if you're not in a place where the ball can't easily slip out of the coupler.
Quote from: edwardr132Will any waxpaper work for lubing the hitch? Is the amount of wax paper you use like 6" square? Is there something to look for in terms of ingredients in choosing the proper waxpaper?
I use the brand
Cut-rite. It comes out to 6" square; I cut off a square sheet from the roll (it comes on a roll like aluminum foil or Saran Wrap), then fold it in half both ways. That gives four layers of wax paper. That's enough for a typical day's towing.
From the web site: "Reynolds
Thanks Austin; I plan on purchasing some tonight for This weekends camping outing and see how it goes....