We have a 2002 Coleman/Fleetwood "Santa Fe" PU with an ABS roof. The ABS roof is fine (no cracks, etc., and boy, are we happy!), however, the black rubber gasket that is mounted to the underside of the roof (seals to side walls when top is down) has a small problem. This gasket is a continuous extruded piece that has a seam where the two ends of it meet at the center/rear of the top. This seam has seperated. The hollow center of the seal tends to collect water (rain and/or night time dew), which then leaks/drips when we close the PU. Q's: Is it best to reattach the two ends of the gasket? Best adhesive to use? Sure would appreciate any suggestions on the best approach to solve this nuisance/canvas staining problem. This site is a fantastic source of experience and knowledge!! Thanks to all who participate!
Mandolin3
If you are the original owner, the roof is covered under the life time warranty. I would let the dealer fix it. It may need to be replaced. If it isn't under warranty I would try and fix it myself. If I remember correctly there is a special adhesive that is used to attach the gasket to the roof, so I would think they would use the same thing to attach the gasket to itself. I also think my old ABS roof had a piece of back tape over the spot were the gasket came together. Good luck and let us know how you make out. I really miss my ABS roof.:)
I have the same problem. Right now, I have the weatherstripping hanging on by an edge in the rear. I have cleaned it, sanded it, used 3 different types of weatherstrip adhesive. So far nothing has worked properly. So I duct tape it.
I'm pretty sure the "official" fix will be to replace it and I just don't feel like putting out the money at this time...
Quote from: wynotI have the same problem. Right now, I have the weatherstripping hanging on by an edge in the rear. I have cleaned it, sanded it, used 3 different types of weatherstrip adhesive. So far nothing has worked properly. So I duct tape it.
I'm pretty sure the "official" fix will be to replace it and I just don't feel like putting out the money at this time...
Didn't you buy it new? If you did it should be covered under your life time warranty for the roof.:)
We purchased our PU used, so no "original owner" warranty. I just spoke with the service/repair manager at our dealer. He said that the factory uses "GE Silicone II" caulking (preferably black in color) to attach/seal the two ends of the gasket. He recommends that the gasket ends be very clean (rubbing alchohol) and dry before applying the silicone. He also suggested carefully wrapping/taping a piece of waxed paper around the seam repair, until the silicone drys. This will keep it from running/oozing out of the seam and making a mess. I'll give this a try later today, and let you all know how it works. Thanks for the replys.
Quote from: mandolin3We purchased our PU used, so no "original owner" warranty. I just spoke with the service/repair manager at our dealer. He said that the factory uses "GE Silicone II" caulking (preferably black in color) to attach/seal the two ends of the gasket. He recommends that the gasket ends be very clean (rubbing alchohol) and dry before applying the silicone. He also suggested carefully wrapping/taping a piece of waxed paper around the seam repair, until the silicone drys. This will keep it from running/oozing out of the seam and making a mess. I'll give this a try later today, and let you all know how it works. Thanks for the replys.
Good luck with the fix. I am surprised they use silicone to hold the ends together.:)
Quote from: tlhdocDidn't you buy it new? If you did it should be covered under your life time warranty for the roof.:)
Interesting point, Tracy. I might check that out with our bandit RV dealership and see how much I have to fight them on that one this winter.
The seal is considered a wear part and as such is covered under the one year bumper to bumper warranty not the roof warranty. Front or rear leaks can be shimmed under warranty, but most are caused by the pressure on the seal when raised and collapsing the seal. Which returns to it's original shape over several days.
You'll be happy to know the seal runs apx $7 a foot or apx $280 to replace on a 12 foot box trailer; plus labor.
Quote from: mike4947The seal is considered a wear part and as such is covered under the one year bumper to bumper warranty not the roof warranty.
Ouch!
Quote from: mike4947The seal is considered a wear part and as such is covered under the one year bumper to bumper warranty not the roof warranty. Front or rear leaks can be shimmed under warranty, but most are caused by the pressure on the seal when raised and collapsing the seal. Which returns to it's original shape over several days.
You'll be happy to know the seal runs apx $7 a foot or apx $280 to replace on a 12 foot box trailer; plus labor.
Methinks I see epoxy being used on the seal...:Z
A slight adjustment to my previous post. There have been a couple of folks that have had their dealer support in replacing failed older triple lip roof seals under warranty with the newer bulb type seals. We have also had reports of other dealers not going to bat for their customers.
So at least with the older triple lip seal and a good dealer you have a chance under warranty to get it replaced at no charge. The older seals are replaced with the new bulb style seals. We haven't had a single case of the new bulb type seal being replaced under warranty after the year bumper to bumper warranty is up.
Product Item Number(s)
00112 - O-Ring Splicing Kit
46551 - 404 Quick Set(TM) Instant Adhesive
74126 - Water Proofing Solution
75326 - Clean Up Solvent
The above referenced materials are from a Loctite O-ring splicing kit.
The Loctite 404 holds up very well for gluing rubber O-rings that are placed under repeated compression