Title: Rotted roof repair on Starcraft
Post by: austinado16 on Mar 10, 2007, 04:58 PM
Post by: austinado16 on Mar 10, 2007, 04:58 PM
Avert your eyes if you don't want to see this!
The previous owner had spanned the inside front of the roof with two 1x4 redwood planks bolted through the entire roof "skin." I knew this was going to be ugly.......and man was I right.
The entire front verticle section of the roof........which is a piece of OSB (oriented strand board) plywood glued on one side to white painted aluminum sheet for your inside white ceiling, and the dimpled aluminum sheet used on the roof glued to the outside........was soggy, damp, and completely decomposed.
The 1x2 wood cross member at the leading edge of the horizontal part of the roof was equally decomposed for about 90% of it's length.
The 1x wood the runs right down the middle of the roof under the seem of the sheet aluminum is rotted about halfway to the centered roof vent.
The verticle sides are also rotted to about 18" back on the left side and maybe a foot back on the right.
I knew it was like this when I bought it 6 weeks ago, and only paid $250.00....so I definately got what I paid for.
The plan is to section in some CDX or Marine Grade plywood, saving and regluing the white aluminum skin on the inside and the textured exterior skin. I'll replace the middle 1x and the leading edge 1x and maybe ad an "L" shaped aluminum or steel channel to reinforce and have something to screw into for better structural support. Once it's back together, I'll go to the upholstery shop and have them work a little magic with the ceiling.
Any BTDT's welcome!!!!
The previous owner had spanned the inside front of the roof with two 1x4 redwood planks bolted through the entire roof "skin." I knew this was going to be ugly.......and man was I right.
The entire front verticle section of the roof........which is a piece of OSB (oriented strand board) plywood glued on one side to white painted aluminum sheet for your inside white ceiling, and the dimpled aluminum sheet used on the roof glued to the outside........was soggy, damp, and completely decomposed.
The 1x2 wood cross member at the leading edge of the horizontal part of the roof was equally decomposed for about 90% of it's length.
The 1x wood the runs right down the middle of the roof under the seem of the sheet aluminum is rotted about halfway to the centered roof vent.
The verticle sides are also rotted to about 18" back on the left side and maybe a foot back on the right.
I knew it was like this when I bought it 6 weeks ago, and only paid $250.00....so I definately got what I paid for.
The plan is to section in some CDX or Marine Grade plywood, saving and regluing the white aluminum skin on the inside and the textured exterior skin. I'll replace the middle 1x and the leading edge 1x and maybe ad an "L" shaped aluminum or steel channel to reinforce and have something to screw into for better structural support. Once it's back together, I'll go to the upholstery shop and have them work a little magic with the ceiling.
Any BTDT's welcome!!!!
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Post by: qwazert on Mar 11, 2007, 06:20 PM
Post by: qwazert on Mar 11, 2007, 06:20 PM
OMG...good luck on this one! :yikes:
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Post by: austinado16 on Mar 11, 2007, 11:24 PM
Post by: austinado16 on Mar 11, 2007, 11:24 PM
Got the sides finished and installed a new front cross member that I cut out of a pressure treated 2x4. On to the front verticle piece next. Then come up with a plan to replace the rotted out/destroyed piece of 1x that runs down the middle of the roof.
Fun stuff....for sure.
Fun stuff....for sure.
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Post by: austinado16 on Mar 15, 2007, 03:54 PM
Post by: austinado16 on Mar 15, 2007, 03:54 PM
Starting to go back together now. So far, so good. The sides where I've butt jointed in new 1/2 OSB are super strong and rigid. I installed the new front panel with the roof supported just slightly bowed up and now with the panel in place and acting like a truss, the roof is strong and back into its correct shape.
I was able to splice in a new stringer running from the center of the front down toward the roof vent. I cut the rotted one back until I found good wood, then using chisels, shaped the end of it into a step. The new piece had a matching step and once glued and screwed seems fine.
I'm mounting front skin and the corner moldings now. Then I can put on the lower trim and gasket.
When that's all done I can deal with the damaged skin down the center roof seam, and the trim that covers it.
I was able to splice in a new stringer running from the center of the front down toward the roof vent. I cut the rotted one back until I found good wood, then using chisels, shaped the end of it into a step. The new piece had a matching step and once glued and screwed seems fine.
I'm mounting front skin and the corner moldings now. Then I can put on the lower trim and gasket.
When that's all done I can deal with the damaged skin down the center roof seam, and the trim that covers it.
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Post by: wavery on Mar 15, 2007, 04:42 PM
Post by: wavery on Mar 15, 2007, 04:42 PM
Looks like a fun project. Keep us posted. :D
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Post by: Hunt4Fun on Mar 16, 2007, 07:01 PM
Post by: Hunt4Fun on Mar 16, 2007, 07:01 PM
I feel your pain.
http://new.photos.yahoo.com/jack.kissner@sbcglobal.net/album/576460762381271476
http://new.photos.yahoo.com/jack.kissner@sbcglobal.net/album/576460762381271476
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Post by: austinado16 on Mar 16, 2007, 10:34 PM
Post by: austinado16 on Mar 16, 2007, 10:34 PM
Hunt4Fun your photos are fantastic, and your work incredible! I'd stumbled across your album a few weeks ago when searching the forums and finding any related info on tearing apart one of these roofs.
As for today's progress, the exterior is all back together, except for the tan vinyl strip that pops into the seam and corner moldings on the outside.
Where the top seam was eaten away under the seam cover molding, I found a product at the local RV place that comes on a roll. About 6" wide 1/16" thick and as long as you want. Sticky on one side, white rubber on the other. So, this is down centered on the roof seam, and then I screwed the molding back down with 1/2 #8 stainless philips head screws.
I'm not happy with this visually, because it's a white strip on my tan roof and looks pretty "rookie." But, I think if I can paint to match, it'll be fine, and it's definately waterproof.
The roof is super strong again too. I actually put the left over sheet of 1/2" OSB on one half of the roof and then kneeled up there to install the patch, molding and screws.
The next adventure is going to be redoing the white ceiling vinyl. I also need to drill holes and remount all the fasteners that hold the roof to the telescoping legs, and the metal clips for the closing latches, and install the rails for the canvas.
Here's a shot of the progress so far....
As for today's progress, the exterior is all back together, except for the tan vinyl strip that pops into the seam and corner moldings on the outside.
Where the top seam was eaten away under the seam cover molding, I found a product at the local RV place that comes on a roll. About 6" wide 1/16" thick and as long as you want. Sticky on one side, white rubber on the other. So, this is down centered on the roof seam, and then I screwed the molding back down with 1/2 #8 stainless philips head screws.
I'm not happy with this visually, because it's a white strip on my tan roof and looks pretty "rookie." But, I think if I can paint to match, it'll be fine, and it's definately waterproof.
The roof is super strong again too. I actually put the left over sheet of 1/2" OSB on one half of the roof and then kneeled up there to install the patch, molding and screws.
The next adventure is going to be redoing the white ceiling vinyl. I also need to drill holes and remount all the fasteners that hold the roof to the telescoping legs, and the metal clips for the closing latches, and install the rails for the canvas.
Here's a shot of the progress so far....
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Post by: Hunt4Fun on Mar 17, 2007, 04:54 PM
Post by: Hunt4Fun on Mar 17, 2007, 04:54 PM
That looks great! Nice work!
You may decide to add metal plates on either side of the roof where the lift system connects. I did not do that, but I'll be watching for wear in that area. I used 3/4 inch solid lumber for the roof and like all the exterior, it is painted with 2 coats of Kilz primer and then 2 coats of semi-gloss enamel.
I have not decided what to do about the exterior. It's weather proof the way that it sits now, but it looks like a box. I'm not sure what to consider for panels. I had looked at some corrugated panels but the color was a hideous green. I was hoping to find something in hunter green.
I've spent the entire day working on it today. The running lights are on and just need to be connected up. The 110 outlets are in (4 of them) and the electrical box has a new circuit breaker. I'll take some more pictures on Sunday.
Right now I'm ready to crash and watch the Hoosiers play UCLA. I don't have a good feeling about the game for the Hoosiers sake, but if they start raining 3 pointers in, it could be interesting.
Take care and best of luck on your project.
Hunt4Fun
You may decide to add metal plates on either side of the roof where the lift system connects. I did not do that, but I'll be watching for wear in that area. I used 3/4 inch solid lumber for the roof and like all the exterior, it is painted with 2 coats of Kilz primer and then 2 coats of semi-gloss enamel.
I have not decided what to do about the exterior. It's weather proof the way that it sits now, but it looks like a box. I'm not sure what to consider for panels. I had looked at some corrugated panels but the color was a hideous green. I was hoping to find something in hunter green.
I've spent the entire day working on it today. The running lights are on and just need to be connected up. The 110 outlets are in (4 of them) and the electrical box has a new circuit breaker. I'll take some more pictures on Sunday.
Right now I'm ready to crash and watch the Hoosiers play UCLA. I don't have a good feeling about the game for the Hoosiers sake, but if they start raining 3 pointers in, it could be interesting.
Take care and best of luck on your project.
Hunt4Fun
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Post by: austinado16 on Mar 17, 2007, 11:59 PM
Post by: austinado16 on Mar 17, 2007, 11:59 PM
Thanks and pardon the filthy look. I still haven't polished and waxed the exterior....figuring there's no point when I'm in mass destruction mode.
Have you thought about having your roof "Rhino Lined?" I don't know if they can spray that stuff onto painted wood or not. I'm seriously thinking about having my roof done in it. Or at a minimum, I may blast that patch "stripe" with some paintable undercoating to give it some texture sort of like the roof has, and then try to paint to match the roof.
I haven't put in any of the front fasteners yet, but I intend to make sure they're bedded in some caulking and very tight to get a good strong crush on the wood and aluminum.
And it won't be left sitting outside without a cover!
Have you thought about having your roof "Rhino Lined?" I don't know if they can spray that stuff onto painted wood or not. I'm seriously thinking about having my roof done in it. Or at a minimum, I may blast that patch "stripe" with some paintable undercoating to give it some texture sort of like the roof has, and then try to paint to match the roof.
I haven't put in any of the front fasteners yet, but I intend to make sure they're bedded in some caulking and very tight to get a good strong crush on the wood and aluminum.
And it won't be left sitting outside without a cover!
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Post by: Hunt4Fun on Mar 18, 2007, 01:11 AM
Post by: Hunt4Fun on Mar 18, 2007, 01:11 AM
I have thought about it, but I'm not sure how much weight it would add. I have Rhino on my current truck and had it on a previous one. Great stuff, but I'm hoping to take the pop up over and have it weighed in the near future.
Yesterday was very productive. The dinette is functional and I expect to finish up the wiring Sunday.
Then it is ready functionally for turkey season at the end of April.
Yesterday was very productive. The dinette is functional and I expect to finish up the wiring Sunday.
Then it is ready functionally for turkey season at the end of April.
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Post by: howlinowl on Mar 18, 2007, 02:51 PM
Post by: howlinowl on Mar 18, 2007, 02:51 PM
Whoo boy. Nice work on both those. I seriously doubt I'd have the ambition to tackle either of those.
Allan
Allan
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Post by: ScouterMom on Mar 19, 2007, 12:08 AM
Post by: ScouterMom on Mar 19, 2007, 12:08 AM
That roof was really something - what a mess!
But Hunt4fun, your 'project' is unbelievable! is there anything left of that 1976 camper except the frame? are you going to use the old 'skin' or a completely new cover? That is a really impressive job!
I just bought a 73 starcraft - looks to have been close to the size and configuration of your '76 - I haven't got it home yet. Before I can get a really good look at it, I have to get the lift cables replaced so I can GET the lid up and look at it! But I might be calling on you for your obvious expertise.... is that OK?
I have a question maybe you know the answer to - I noticed in your starcraft there is a long tube maybe 4-5" in diameter, running the width of the back of the camper (it's in your pic # 008) - My 73 has this, also. What is it for? poles? it only opens on one side, and mine appears to have a missing or broken cap, and nothing in it but dust and spiders.
Laura
But Hunt4fun, your 'project' is unbelievable! is there anything left of that 1976 camper except the frame? are you going to use the old 'skin' or a completely new cover? That is a really impressive job!
I just bought a 73 starcraft - looks to have been close to the size and configuration of your '76 - I haven't got it home yet. Before I can get a really good look at it, I have to get the lift cables replaced so I can GET the lid up and look at it! But I might be calling on you for your obvious expertise.... is that OK?
I have a question maybe you know the answer to - I noticed in your starcraft there is a long tube maybe 4-5" in diameter, running the width of the back of the camper (it's in your pic # 008) - My 73 has this, also. What is it for? poles? it only opens on one side, and mine appears to have a missing or broken cap, and nothing in it but dust and spiders.
Laura
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Post by: ScouterMom on Mar 19, 2007, 12:21 AM
Post by: ScouterMom on Mar 19, 2007, 12:21 AM
Hunt4fun,
Theres a re-done camper on e-bay - looks very different - the guy covered the whole thing with diamond plate steel - here's a link -
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=018&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=280094599950&rd=1&rd=1
(if the link doesn't work, it's item no 280094599950) it looks really nice, and will probably wear well and reflect heat, too! I don't know how expensive it would be, or how heavy!
Laura
Theres a re-done camper on e-bay - looks very different - the guy covered the whole thing with diamond plate steel - here's a link -
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=018&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=280094599950&rd=1&rd=1
(if the link doesn't work, it's item no 280094599950) it looks really nice, and will probably wear well and reflect heat, too! I don't know how expensive it would be, or how heavy!
Laura
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Post by: Hunt4Fun on Mar 19, 2007, 04:09 PM
Post by: Hunt4Fun on Mar 19, 2007, 04:09 PM
ScouterMom,
I've kept a few things outside of the frame: The 110 box and outside electrical cord, the winch and lift system is pretty much original. I disassembled, cleaned, painted and lubricated it, but the parts are the same. The sink and stove are original, but the plumbing and copper tubing to the stove is new. Oh, and I kept the door, but it has not been installed at the top as yet.
I'm always glad to help in any way. Message board or email is fine.
The long tube in my starcraft was for poles. I haven't sorted all of them out, but the 4 poles to support the beds were there and some other that looked to be for an awning from the past.
The old skin is in the trash, and I have not decided what to put on the outside as yet. I'm still looking at options.
The unit on ebay looks nice, but I would concerned about the weight that the steel adds. I tried to stay with wood, but I did increase from 1X1 framing to 2X2. I was really surprised that it was manufactured with 1X1s.
Best of luck with your repairs.
Hunt4Fun
I've kept a few things outside of the frame: The 110 box and outside electrical cord, the winch and lift system is pretty much original. I disassembled, cleaned, painted and lubricated it, but the parts are the same. The sink and stove are original, but the plumbing and copper tubing to the stove is new. Oh, and I kept the door, but it has not been installed at the top as yet.
I'm always glad to help in any way. Message board or email is fine.
The long tube in my starcraft was for poles. I haven't sorted all of them out, but the 4 poles to support the beds were there and some other that looked to be for an awning from the past.
The old skin is in the trash, and I have not decided what to put on the outside as yet. I'm still looking at options.
The unit on ebay looks nice, but I would concerned about the weight that the steel adds. I tried to stay with wood, but I did increase from 1X1 framing to 2X2. I was really surprised that it was manufactured with 1X1s.
Best of luck with your repairs.
Hunt4Fun
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Post by: howlinowl on Mar 19, 2007, 05:43 PM
Post by: howlinowl on Mar 19, 2007, 05:43 PM
Well, Hunts4Fun. Since you are replacing the canvas, why not get some camoflage for the tent.....and paint the trailer to match. Would be cool, except it might be hard to find the trailer when you get back from hunting.
Allan
Allan
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Post by: Hunt4Fun on Mar 20, 2007, 05:14 AM
Post by: Hunt4Fun on Mar 20, 2007, 05:14 AM
Sorry, I should have mentioned. The canvas was in decent shape. It was repaired for a few holes and tears.
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Post by: ScouterMom on Apr 01, 2007, 07:54 PM
Post by: ScouterMom on Apr 01, 2007, 07:54 PM
Austinado,
I guess I'm going to be joining you in the camper roof repair business! got my new /73 starmaster 6 opened up last night and discover that it has quite a leak over the rear passenger corner! 1/2 of the back third of the roof is rotted and soaked, and 1/2 of the rear vertical lid. Not as bad as some I've seen, but not what I was expecting to find. So I may be using some of your excellent photos for a guide to tearing down my roof.....
It's been raining cats and dogs here for the last week - heavy driving rain & wind - so It's good that I got the camper in the garage and up before it sat in the drive too much longer.
In addition, there is some mildew on the canvas and curtains - I'll probably toss the curtains and make new ones, but the canvas is in good shape, except one window screen looks like it was clawed by a bear! Weird - because all the others are in perfect shape. I took some photos, as soon as I can get them downloaded, I'll be asking for any advice from both of you!
Laura
I guess I'm going to be joining you in the camper roof repair business! got my new /73 starmaster 6 opened up last night and discover that it has quite a leak over the rear passenger corner! 1/2 of the back third of the roof is rotted and soaked, and 1/2 of the rear vertical lid. Not as bad as some I've seen, but not what I was expecting to find. So I may be using some of your excellent photos for a guide to tearing down my roof.....
It's been raining cats and dogs here for the last week - heavy driving rain & wind - so It's good that I got the camper in the garage and up before it sat in the drive too much longer.
In addition, there is some mildew on the canvas and curtains - I'll probably toss the curtains and make new ones, but the canvas is in good shape, except one window screen looks like it was clawed by a bear! Weird - because all the others are in perfect shape. I took some photos, as soon as I can get them downloaded, I'll be asking for any advice from both of you!
Laura
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Post by: Hunt4Fun on Apr 01, 2007, 09:51 PM
Post by: Hunt4Fun on Apr 01, 2007, 09:51 PM
Try and look at the walls as well. That water had to go somewhere. I would be very surprised if you don't have some wall and/or floor rot. Don't hesitate to replace it. I'm certain now that mine doesn't have mold or mildew. Those pose potentially serious health risks.
Hunt4Fun
Hunt4Fun
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Post by: austinado16 on Apr 02, 2007, 12:14 AM
Post by: austinado16 on Apr 02, 2007, 12:14 AM
Hi Laura,
Sounds like you've got some work ahead of you. I'd be happy to offer some suggestions when the time comes.
Be prepared for the job to require a certain number of tools and materials.
Tool List:
1) Jigsaw
2) Wormdrive Skill Saw
3) Should have had a table saw
4) A bunch of clamps ( I had 4 and could have used more or different sizes/depths)
5) Drill and drill bits
6) Philips screw driver bit for drill
7) Caulk Gun
8) Various scrapers and chisels
9) Various screw drivers (slotted head and philips head)
10) A square bit (I don't know the correct name) for the special square head screws used everywhere on my Starcraft.
11) Box cutter knife
Materials list:
1) 4x8 sheet of OSB roof sheathing plywood
2) 3 tubesPL400 Construction Glue in a tube that the caulking gun can use
3) Half a pound of 1-1/2" galvanized sheetrock screws
4) 1 tube of tan silicone caulking compound to match the color of my camper
5) 24 stainless #6 screws for the trim down the center of the roof
6) A 100' role of tan vinyl strip for inside the molding along the sides of the roof
7) 10' of wider tan vinyl strip for inside the center roof molding
8) 8' of the 6" wide rubber repair "tape"
9) 1 tube of tan self-leveling roof caulking
10) Misc. screws for remounting the aluminum rails that the canvas hangs from
11) Still not sure what method or material I'll be using to repair the white ceiling
12) 1 pressure treated 2x4, 8' long
Sounds like you've got some work ahead of you. I'd be happy to offer some suggestions when the time comes.
Be prepared for the job to require a certain number of tools and materials.
Tool List:
1) Jigsaw
2) Wormdrive Skill Saw
3) Should have had a table saw
4) A bunch of clamps ( I had 4 and could have used more or different sizes/depths)
5) Drill and drill bits
6) Philips screw driver bit for drill
7) Caulk Gun
8) Various scrapers and chisels
9) Various screw drivers (slotted head and philips head)
10) A square bit (I don't know the correct name) for the special square head screws used everywhere on my Starcraft.
11) Box cutter knife
Materials list:
1) 4x8 sheet of OSB roof sheathing plywood
2) 3 tubesPL400 Construction Glue in a tube that the caulking gun can use
3) Half a pound of 1-1/2" galvanized sheetrock screws
4) 1 tube of tan silicone caulking compound to match the color of my camper
5) 24 stainless #6 screws for the trim down the center of the roof
6) A 100' role of tan vinyl strip for inside the molding along the sides of the roof
7) 10' of wider tan vinyl strip for inside the center roof molding
8) 8' of the 6" wide rubber repair "tape"
9) 1 tube of tan self-leveling roof caulking
10) Misc. screws for remounting the aluminum rails that the canvas hangs from
11) Still not sure what method or material I'll be using to repair the white ceiling
12) 1 pressure treated 2x4, 8' long
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Post by: Hunt4Fun on Apr 02, 2007, 06:01 PM
Post by: Hunt4Fun on Apr 02, 2007, 06:01 PM
The screwhead Austin refers to is a clutch head. I was able to find one at Ace Hardware, but Lowe's and Home Depot did not have it.
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Post by: kmh1596 on Aug 29, 2007, 06:08 AM
Post by: kmh1596 on Aug 29, 2007, 06:08 AM
Where did you find the thin aluminum, or vinyl to cover the wood, so it looked as close to factory outside, as well as the inside ceiling? I need to cover the curbside board I replaced with this stuff..
Thanks!
Kevin
Thanks!
Kevin
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Post by: austinado16 on Aug 29, 2007, 10:03 AM
Post by: austinado16 on Aug 29, 2007, 10:03 AM
Quote from: kmh1596Where did you find the thin aluminum, or vinyl to cover the wood, so it looked as close to factory outside, as well as the inside ceiling? I need to cover the curbside board I replaced with this stuff..
Thanks!
Kevin
I was lucky in that the wood was so rotted it simply scraped right off the aluminum skin. I was able to cut new wood and bond it to the original aluminum on both sides.
I created a seperate thread for the ceiling repair. I wound up using a thin wall board called "Abitibi" that you'd find in a public restroom. I glued it and air stapled it directly over the damaged Luan ceiling boad after peeling the white vinyl "wallpaper" like material off the ceiling. I found plastic "inside cove" moulding in white, with a fake wood grain finish that I used to trim around where the ceiling meets the side walls, and then the white plastic filler strips that are for use when you have one sheet of Abitibi butted up against another.
Now that it's all finished, it looks very factory and unless you knew it had all been done, you'd never know.
Here's a shot of the exterior of the roof painted and a new skylight installed:
Here's a shot of the ceiling finished: