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General => General => Topic started by: brainpause on Mar 31, 2007, 09:50 PM

Title: removing anode rod after every trip?
Post by: brainpause on Mar 31, 2007, 09:50 PM
With our new camper, I'm wondering if I really need to follow manufacturer's instructions and take the anode rod out after EVERY trip and drain the water heater. On my camper, this is the only way to drain the water heater. What do you do? (Tried to find the answer on here using Search, but too tired to look deeply.)

Larry
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Post by: tlhdoc on Apr 01, 2007, 01:32 AM
Larry I have lines under my PU that allow me to drain the water heater, without taking the anode rod out every time.  If that was the only way to drain my water heater I would remove it every trip.  If you leave the water in the tank you can end up with some nasty smelling/tasting water.:)
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Post by: brainpause on Apr 01, 2007, 08:24 AM
Quote from: tlhdocLarry I have lines under my PU that allow me to drain the water heater, without taking the anode rod out every time.  If that was the only way to drain my water heater I would remove it every trip.  If you leave the water in the tank you can end up with some nasty smelling/tasting water.:)

Hmmm....Wish I could engineer something like that for mine.

Larry
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Post by: tlhdoc on Apr 01, 2007, 08:34 AM
You could do it.  I have 2 lines coming down through the floor.  One is tapped into the water line entering the water heater and the other is tapped into the line exiting the water heater.  Open both at the end of a trip and the water will flow out of the bottom line, and air enters through the top line.:)
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Post by: tlhdoc on Apr 01, 2007, 08:38 AM
Larry in my web shots album titles "My Pop Up Camper", page 4 shows the factory drain lines under my camper.:)

http://home-and-garden.webshots.com/photo/2410911100039762025bLXglP (//%22http://home-and-garden.webshots.com/photo/2410911100039762025bLXglP%22)
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Post by: brainpause on Apr 01, 2007, 05:26 PM
**Drilling holes in a new camper**

 :eyecrazy:  :yikes:
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Post by: tlhdoc on Apr 01, 2007, 05:39 PM
Quote from: brainpause**Drilling holes in a new camper**
 
:eyecrazy: :yikes:
Yes drilling holes in your new camper.  Let me stress, to do this to your "Ant" and not the other new camper.  You don't need extra holes it him or her.:D
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Post by: AustinBoston on Apr 01, 2007, 06:33 PM
I left water in the hot water heater once.  Never, ever will make that mistake again.  Odor could cause reverse peristalsys (excuse spelling).

I only remove the anode rod once a year to inspect and/or replace it.

Some users may not have an anode rod; at least one manufacturer makes the tank with a non-metallic (glass) coating on the inside surface.

Austin
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Post by: beacher on Apr 02, 2007, 12:30 PM
I take out the anode once a year, but I never "winterize".  I'm in CA! :)
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Post by: brainpause on Apr 02, 2007, 09:13 PM
Well, I went to take the ding dang rod out tonight to drain the tank (to storage place about 10 miles up the road and hard to get to), and I can't get the ding dang anode rod out! Too much compound, I guess. Also, a 1-1/8" socket was too big, although it fit fine the other day, and a 1" socket was too small. Hmmmm....1-1/16"???

 :mad:

Not the way I want to start my relationship with my Antigua.

Larry
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Post by: SheBantam on Apr 02, 2007, 09:39 PM
Quote from: brainpauseWell, I went to take the ding dang rod out tonight to drain the tank (to storage place about 10 miles up the road and hard to get to), and I can't get the ding dang anode rod out! Too much compound, I guess. Also, a 1-1/8" socket was too big, although it fit fine the other day, and a 1" socket was too small. Hmmmm....1-1/16"???

 :mad:

Not the way I want to start my relationship with my Antigua.

Larry

Larry (and Holly), I feel your pain...luckily both my trailers use a !" socket and I bought this neat thing that fits on the andle so the socket is more flexible...well not the socket, but the angle that can be reached.

One of the first things I have to do is flush the water heater as I know that I did not get it all out, first I add bleach to the water hose (VERY carefully) and sort of rinse out the whole system with a mild bleach water solution...they did that for cistrins in the old days, so if it good enough for hubby and gramps, then it should be good enough for my delicate self!!!
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Post by: wernstriumph on Apr 03, 2007, 07:29 AM
Quote from: brainpauseWell, I went to take the ding dang rod out tonight to drain the tank (to storage place about 10 miles up the road and hard to get to), and I can't get the ding dang anode rod out! Too much compound, I guess. Also, a 1-1/8" socket was too big, although it fit fine the other day, and a 1" socket was too small. Hmmmm....1-1/16"???

 :mad:

Not the way I want to start my relationship with my Antigua.

Larry
I had the same problem, just tap it with a brass hammer a few times and the buildup will flake off. The 1-1/16" socket should be the right size. My anode rod has a built in drain plug in it( got it on ebay for a few more dollars than the regular one). We drain it after every trip, but only take the rod out at the end of the year.
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Post by: AustinBoston on Apr 03, 2007, 08:44 AM
Quote from: brainpauseWell, I went to take the ding dang rod out tonight to drain the tank (to storage place about 10 miles up the road and hard to get to), and I can't get the ding dang anode rod out! Too much compound, I guess. Also, a 1-1/8" socket was too big, although it fit fine the other day, and a 1" socket was too small. Hmmmm....1-1/16"???

 :mad:

Not the way I want to start my relationship with my Antigua.

Larry

I use a combination of 1-1/16", 1/2" drive socket and a can of PB Blaster.  The purpose of a sacrificial anode is to prevent tank corrosion, and it does this by being the anode of a battery.  The "load" side of the "circuit" (yes, it does form a circuit) is the contact point where the anode rod plug screws into the tank.  That current tends to get the threads ot stick pretty good to each other.  Spray some PB Blaster (available at auto parts stores and several times better than WD-40) on the threads and give it an hour.  That puppy will come right out.

PB Blaster is not good for you and so you will want to rinse everything well afterwards.  Probably also tastes terrible.

Austin
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Post by: brainpause on Apr 03, 2007, 09:19 AM
Quote from: AustinBostonI use a combination of 1-1/16", 1/2" drive socket and a can of PB Blaster.  The purpose of a sacrificial anode is to prevent tank corrosion, and it does this by being the anode of a battery.  The "load" side of the "circuit" (yes, it does form a circuit) is the contact point where the anode rod plug screws into the tank.  That current tends to get the threads ot stick pretty good to each other.  Spray some PB Blaster (available at auto parts stores and several times better than WD-40) on the threads and give it an hour.  That puppy will come right out.

PB Blaster is not good for you and so you will want to rinse everything well afterwards.  Probably also tastes terrible.

Austin

After just a week I'll have to use PB Blaster? Sheesh...this water heater seems to be more trouble than it is worth.

 :mad:  :banghead:

PS: I don't have running water at its storage place, so PB isn't a great option. Nor is it an easy place to get to. I have to walk behind people's houses to get to it, and I don't want to get shot going there after dark. Guess this is just a little frustrating, but I guess I'll take it out as soon as a trip ends from now on. I didn't take it out last weekend simply because I had caulked the area and didn't want it to get wet.

Larry
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Post by: wynot on Apr 03, 2007, 09:38 AM
Quote from: brainpauseAfter just a week I'll have to use PB Blaster? Sheesh...this water heater seems to be more trouble than it is worth.
 
:mad: :banghead:
 
PS: I don't have running water at its storage place, so PB isn't a great option. Nor is it an easy place to get to. I have to walk behind people's houses to get to it, and I don't want to get shot going there after dark. Guess this is just a little frustrating, but I guess I'll take it out as soon as a trip ends from now on. I didn't take it out last weekend simply because I had caulked the area and didn't want it to get wet.
 
Larry
Judging from this discussion - I am totally opposite.  I leave the water in the hot water tank between trips, because it adds another 6 gals of weight to the front of the Utah.  I may empty the water heater when I get home, but not usually.  I pull the anode once a year without any penetrating oil or equivalent.
 
In 5 years, we haven't had funky smells, strange growths, rust out, dysentery, or anything else.
 
Larry, either put a set of drain cocks on the lines if you want to drain the tank, add a smidge of bleach to the water before you shut your water off at the campsite, or take your chances like we do.  I think you guys get out a decent amount, so the water shouldn't be in there a real long time.
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Post by: TheViking on Apr 03, 2007, 09:38 AM
I've had had my TT for 2 years now and all I have ever done is drain the water heater after every trip. The only exception is when I use the TT for back to back weekend camping. Like this week. Never had a problem or stinky water.
 
By the way, Congrats on the whole new set up you have. Or, if you are like me, the set up you and your bank have.  I'm just the Co-Owner at this point.
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Post by: brainpause on Apr 03, 2007, 01:50 PM
Quote from: TheVikingBy the way, Congrats on the whole new set up you have. Or, if you are like me, the set up you and your bank have.  I'm just the Co-Owner at this point.



Nope...all mine! Truck, trailer, and all! :D

Larry
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Post by: SheBantam on Apr 03, 2007, 04:26 PM
Larry, I lied...the Bantam is a 1 inch socket and I have th twist out middle on that one,

The Cabina is DSI and is 1 1/16. Raymond had to get the big drive out and he had to put a lot of pressure on it and the anode is toast.

On the Bnatam I have always replaced the teflon Tape when the nod itself comes out.  Can always get that one out myself.

OK guys (and gals) wih DSI water heaters (NOT to hijack Larry's thread, but this is WH related...

When I went to winterize, I had to literally unpack the Cabn A to get to the water heater, then I found no by pass, so I left a little heater on as I have been told not to put the antifreeze in the water heater...well my almost 18 year old unplugged the camper from the house to plug up a stereo for friends when we were not home, and the temps droped down to about 5 degrees...jut tried to sanize the water system with a little bleach and a lot of water in the fresh water tank, turned on the pump and all I sanitized was the driveway...yep....blown water line(s), especially by my dealer installed out door shower (who by the way, put my awning on upside down and the brake-away reciever on thecamper under neath when the service manager wrote it as clear as day ON THE SIDE of the a frame...(yes these are the guys who are re-installing a hitch on the minvan that was stolen last weekend so I can go camping in my leaky trailer,(guess who will not be hooking up to water)).

Larry and Holly, the conviences of the bigger nicer trailer are great, bt some times they are not as "convienient" as they are cracked up to be.

Good luck geting it off.
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Post by: mjdfarm on Apr 04, 2007, 06:03 AM
We don't drain the tank. We camp once or twice a month.  Never had a problem.  Living in FL does not require winterization.  Mabye the frequent usage prevents the problems with bad water others have had.  Or maybe we are just lucky.....
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Post by: byrdr1 on Apr 06, 2007, 01:15 PM
Larry,
1st thing .......... Quit stressing............
Its a learning curve thing right now, it will come easier to you after a few trips.. JUST like a PU you have to learn the new camper.
I have installed the drain valve anode rod in my TT. this allows me to drain each trip and still have the protection I need with a anode rod.
I installed it after last trip last year. So after we get through these few days of below 30 degree weather I will drain all pink stuff and charge my water system. We leave Wednesday for Charleston, SC for Spring break..
The TT will be better , you just got to quit stressing and go with the flow.
I was going to work on it Saturday but Saturday night they are calling for 25 degree temps. SO i will wait a day or two and check for leaks and anything else that might come up.
I loaded my fresh water tank with 20-25 gallons of water and 1&1/2 cups bleach last Sunday.
I always keep 7-10 gals of water in tank just in case it is needed. I drain this after every trip. BUT I had not santized the tanks in a year and wanted to do the system also.
Any questions you have about TT's let me know. I have been darksiding now for a little over 4years.. Can you believe this is our 8th yr camping..
it will get easier believe me..
randy
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Post by: brainpause on Apr 06, 2007, 05:44 PM
Quote from: byrdr1Larry,
1st thing .......... Quit stressing............

May be the best advice I've read on this board since I joined in 2001.

A drain valve anode rod? Meaning the drain valve is built onto the rod nut? Where can I find one?

Larry
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Post by: byrdr1 on Apr 06, 2007, 07:15 PM
try here...Tanksaver (//%22http://www.campingworld.com/browse/skus/index.cfm/Outdoor-and-RV-Accessories/RV-Maintenance/Freshwater-Systems/Water-Accessories/Tanksaver-Universal-Anode-Rod-Kit/skunum=28796%22)
I read the reviews, all 2 of them. I have not had these problems of leaking or getting installed. YES the angle is a pain but I got it work just fine.
I have more tools than most and just used a snubby wrench.
 
randy