I purchased a Coleman Colonial last fall and I knew that the roof was leaking a bit but what a surprise I had today when I started to take it apart to fix it
As you can see it has been leaking for quite awhile, the insulation behind is also wet, is this repairable?
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All that wood will need to be replaced. Check all of the adjoining wood as well. Wood rot migrates.
It's a big job but some here have done it and posted pictures:
http://www.arveeclub.com/showthread.php?t=62226
I had the very same problem with my coleman when I purchased it. Go to my mods below and click on the roof repair section. This should help you get started. It's not as bad as it may seem once you get into it. It is definately doable and worth the repair. I am proud to say my "new" roof is stronger and more watertite than when it came from the factory. Let me know if you need further advice.
After getting over the disapointment last night I had another look at it, I guess it's not as bad as I thought it was, I e-mailed my buddy a few photos last night and he said we can fix it, he does have the correct tools to help out, I did take more wood off of it and the foam isn't wet up to the top so i'm hoping that it didn't get to the roof. I do know that i'm going to do all 4 sides as there are ripples in the inside. I only paid $1200 for it and after looking at the prices online I didn't pay too much even if I have to fix it, the canvas is 3 years old with no rips and the windows are in great shape
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It would be a good idea to let the foam dry out in the sun a few days before gluing the new paneling to it. May help with adhesion and you wouldn't want to trap any moisture behind the new materials.
Looks like the camper is worth the repair.
Good luck!
So i can use the old stuff?? I was just going to buy some new stuff, right now here at my place it's snowing and it may warm up next week into the 50's
If the foam is in decent shape and you do not damage it removing the old paneling you could re-use it. Lowe's sells a similar thickness white foam that would work fine. It comes package in flat blanks maybe 12" wide and 36" long and about 1/2 dozen pieces shrink wrapped if it needs replacing. Be careful with the outer aluminum skin when scraping the old foam off. It will get really flemsy once every thing is removed and will cut like a knife!
If it were me, I'd replace the foam and clean everything that you re-use with a bleach solution. I would also spray a 10% bleach solution over the entire working area (after removing all of the effected material) and let it set overnight. Be careful not to get the solution on the canvas or upholstery.
Remember, wood-rot is a living organism and it multiplies rapidly. If you leave any residue from the old wood-rot, you may end up with a similar problem within a short time.
I'll replace everything, it'll be the best way to do it and that way I don't have to worry about the mold with my little ones, besides the way the weather is here in SE MN it'll be another month before it even starts to warm up
Quote from: waveryIf it were me, I'd replace the foam and clean everything that you re-use with a bleach solution. I would also spray a 10% bleach solution over the entire working area (after removing all of the effected material) and let it set overnight. Be careful not to get the solution on the canvas or upholstery.
Remember, wood-rot is a living organism and it multiplies rapidly. If you leave any residue from the old wood-rot, you may end up with a similar problem within a short time.
If you do re-use any of the wood (stringers, etc) or keep wood that gets exposed in the fix, but that you don't need to pull out - it wouldn't hurt to use a good mold-proof primer in it, either. there are some great primer paints - KILZ is one - that will seal any mold or mildew and keep it from 'traveling' further.
roanoke91 - your photos gave me a terrific idea for my starcraft re-do, thanks!
I was looking at your couch replacement, and it occurs to me that I have a single base from a waterbed frame that we are not using - it's just sitting in the basement with an old cot mattress on it. The frame is really lightweight and it's already the perfect height, & has two LARGE ready made drawers with tracks and nice looking wood fronts - all I would have to do is install it in the camper instead of the beat-up cabinets in there now. It could be an extra bed, great storage, and then my starmaster 6 would sleep 7!
I'm going to bookmark your albums for future reference - I plan to start into my own roof-rot project tomorrow! no school, and my 16 yr old son, his best friend Will, and my boyfriend are all available tomorrow to help get the projects going!
thanks -
laura
Just an update, i removed everything that didn't look good and now i'm off to Menards to buy some supplies.
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roanoke91, what kind of glue did you use? I picked up some contact cement and put it on the foam and it went right thru!
Contact cement or glue will melt the foam. I used PL Construction Adhesive from Lowe's. I sent a message with more instructions.
Any good suggestion on an easier way to get rid of the foam without poking holes in the aluminum? I started in on my moldy starcraft yesterday, and it is very difficult to get any chunks lager than, say, an oreo cookie. the mold/ mildew seems to have worked it's way thru everything. looks like black thread thru the styrofoam. Yet the foam was glued on really well and it's about an inch thick - I'm afraid to go at it too roughly for fear I'll puncture the aluminum skin.
the mold set off my allergies bad - I had a miserable night trying to sleep all stuffed up last night. I really need to get as much of it out as I can - as the grandkids have worse allergies than mine.
I had two ideas -
one was to heat the outside skin of the camper - with, say, a regular iron or maybe a hair dryer or heat gun - hoping it would loosen the glue and make it come off easier.
the other one - which I'm going to try first, is that I got a roto stripper to go on the drill - except that it's plastic, not metal, whip ends. I thought it would chew into the foam pretty fast without cutting the aluminum. I'm going to try it tomorrow after church - we're having a very low-key Easter, and I plan to spend my extra day off working on the camper.
If anyone else has any good ideas for working the stuff loose - please share!
Laura
A wire wheel brush on your drill might work as long as you do not put much pressure on the other skin once you make contact with it. I would try and pull or scrape (putty knife) as much of it off first before using the brush. Don't worry so much about cleaning it down smooth with the skin. The glue will fill in any sunken spots if you put it on thick enough. I didn't have to remove much foam off my skirts, maybe an inch along the bottom. I had no apparent mold visible, but I cleaned with bleach anyway. I'll think on it some more and post if I come up with anything else.
One more thing!
Make sure the final thickness of the outer skin, 1st layer of glue, foam, 2nd layer of glue and interior paneling doesn't exceed a greater thickness than will allow it to fit snugly back into the bottom roof rail when finished. Make some measurements before you tear out the old.
I did take the measurements before I bought the supplies, the foam is 3/4 and the paneling is 1/4, off to Lowes tomorrow for the glue, the FIL wants to go to Cabella's tomorrow and it's on the way
Thanks
Quote from: roanoke91One more thing!
Make sure the final thickness of the outer skin, 1st layer of glue, foam, 2nd layer of glue and interior paneling doesn't exceed a greater thickness than will allow it to fit snugly back into the bottom roof rail when finished. Make some measurements before you tear out the old.
Ok I have replaced everything on one end, now i'm continuing on the side, any suggestion's on what to use for a brace for the sides?
Thanks