Anyone have any suggestions for getting a rusted hitch our of the 2" receiver?
my 'other' son - a young man who moved in with us after his dad died last summer, used my van to pull trailer loads of stuff out of their family home last fall - he never took the hitch off the receiver for about 4 or 5 weeks, and it rusted in place. I tried to get it off, last fall, but simply didn'thave the strength to break it free.
Now with the new/old starcraft, I need to get a lower level ball for the camper to pull level, and we can't get the bar out of the receiver. I can pull the camper, but not level, and once loaded, it will be too much weight on the axle. Also, at the angle it rides now, I can't 'back' it into my driveway, I have to pull it in and push it around by hand.
Believe it or not - we tried soaking it in coca cola, (it dissolves rust on nails in high school science - right?) and we're now trying a rust dissolving solution I got at the store that is supposed to 'freeze' rust so you can break apart rusted on- screws, etc - but I don't hold much hope. I was hoping someone here might have run across a product or technique good for getting it loose. I really don't want to have to have it replaced totally.
Get a good penatrating lube ie; PB blast. spray it for a few days and take a small sledge hammer to it. Pull the pin too.
I bought an old Jeep that had the draw bar rusted solid and this worked for me.
Quote from: ScouterMomAnyone have any suggestions for getting a rusted hitch our of the 2" receiver?
- he never took the hitch off the receiver for about 4 or 5 weeks, and it rusted in place. I tried to get it off, last fall, but simply didn'thave the strength to break it free.
I'm hard pressed to believe a hitch could have rusted that much in such a short period of time ... even over here at the seashore and salt water. Could it have been jamed into the receiver, maybe by backing the "moving trailer" into something? Maybe a closer look might reveal something bent or twisted? IF that might be the case, maybe stopping off at an auto frame & body shop where they could have a look at it and would have the equipment & where-with-all to remove it.
Fly ... who hates to cast aspersions on towing episodes.
Like Fly, I was surprised that it could rust in so solidly in so short a time. It doesn't seem right to me. I hadn't thought of the possibility of physical damage holding it tight, but you should definitely check into that. If there is some sort of physical damage trapping the receiver, that could also explain why he didn't remove it right away when he finished the job last fall.
If it truly is just rusted in, the key (beyond spraying it with rust-dissolving stuff) is to have the pin out and to smack it with a hammer. The seal just needs to be broken, so your efforts don't have to be aimed at pulling until that happens. With the pin out and a few hammer smacks, even from the side, you stand a good chance of breaking that seal.
Let us know how it turns out.
-Speak
A good penetrating spray (NOT WD40), applied liberally over the course of a few days, along with knocking it from all sides with a rubber mallet pretty frequently will get it. I bought a used Cherokee once, that had this problem. The previous owner left the drawbar in all the time, and use to pull a boat. The oil I used was called "knock er loose" or something very similar. Once out, I had to keep applying the oil, and used a long wire brush on a drill to clean out the inside of the receiver. Once cleaned, I kept it coated with grease.
I do agree with the previous poster though. 4 or 5 weeks seems like an awfully short time to have a bar rust up inside the receiver. I've left mine in for the past year and a half, and it's still very loose. It sounds as if it's jammed in or possibly bent just a bit. If after two or three days of oiling, and trying to knock it out, it's still stuck, do as suggested and stop by a body shop. They will be able to remove it for you.
Tie a rope around a big tree, loop the rope over the hitch ball. Put in drive and mash the gas. (pin removed of course). You'll either get the receiver bar out, or relocate the tree. A win win situation.. hehe J/K!!!
Like others have said, penetrating oil and tapping the receiver on all the sides to try to get it to break free in the tube.
This is the main reason I never keep my receiver bar in when I'm not towing. Plus with my luck I'd bash into it while getting something out of the rear of the Trailblazer or get grease/muck on my pants.
I put my hitch cover in (that says "Toys Go Here"..hehe) and keep the bar in the storage compartment in the rear of the TV ready to go.
Quote from: fairweathercamperGet a good penatrating lube ie; PB blast. spray it for a few days and take a small sledge hammer to it. Pull the pin too.
I bought an old Jeep that had the draw bar rusted solid and this worked for me.
I would also vote for the PB Blaster followed by a few hammer blows. If it doesn't come loose with a few moderate hammer bows, spray some more PB Blaster and wait another 24 hours. WD-40 is good for some things, but won't do the trick with this.
Unless the draw bar or receiver has been damaged, that will get it out.
Austin
While the PB Blaster and hammering sounds like the most reasonable solution, I must admit Jeremy's big tree idea sounds like the FUNNEST solution. :D
:book: Hey ScouterMom..........................
You OK??
You didn't pull that tree over on ya.....did you?? :confused:
I must admit Jeremy's big tree idea sounds like the FUNNEST solution.
The tree/rope idea might be funny, but broken ropes can do unfunny things.
A good hand with a torch might be the only way to get a bent ballmount out of the recever. If the recever is bent, scrape it all in one piece.
I'm afraid it may be too late.............Looks like ScouterMom is missing in action :(
Guaranteed fix:
Pull the pin out of the drawbar.
Hook up to said trailer and attempt to tow trailer.
:yikes:
This is said in jest, of course. Please don't try.
Larry
Quote from: JeremyTie a rope around a big tree, loop the rope over the hitch ball. Put in drive and mash the gas. (pin removed of course). You'll either get the receiver bar out, or relocate the tree. A win win situation.. hehe J/K!!!
Like others have said, penetrating oil and tapping the receiver on all the sides to try to get it to break free in the tube.
This is the main reason I never keep my receiver bar in when I'm not towing. Plus with my luck I'd bash into it while getting something out of the rear of the Trailblazer or get grease/muck on my pants.
I put my hitch cover in (that says "Toys Go Here"..hehe) and keep the bar in the storage compartment in the rear of the TV ready to go.
Or if you like where all your trees are Borrow a nieghbors tree!
Nope, I'm still alive!
Thought about trying the rope and tree trick, but the only tree around here I would risk it on is my neighbors dead maple, and I don't want it falling over on my van, or worse yet - my house! and I don't think it would pull the hitch out anyway!
However, the stuff I got is that PB Blaster - and we're trying that - I keep trying to remember to spray it, and go out and whack it every few hours - but I keep getting distracted.
(we did crawl under and check the hitch - the pin is out and it's not jammed or bent - so hopefully it will eventually come loose.)
We dug into the camper rotted back board today - man, what a mess!
it is still so soggy that I got squirted a few times trying to cut into the rotted plywood! we managed to peel layers of plywood off, but couldn't get it to actually break free. They sure put those old starcrafts together well!
And we didn't get far in trying to get the foam off the roof, either. we were trying to be careful and not puncture the aluminum skin. I'd really like to get all the foam off and replace it, as it is all black mold under the foil, but it is so well stuck on the aluminum, that it is taking forever. It's really solid. I bet we got less than one square foot off. And the top of the camper was rocking so hard, with us chipping away at it, one of the boards holding up the corners fell over and klonked me on the head! We tried scrapers, knives, fingers, anything to get that foam loose. Anyone have any special techniques that worked well for you?
I had the Buddy heater going in the camper, in the garage, and it wasn't bad, but it is below freezing tonite, and the garage is so crowded with the camper in there, it's hard to move around. I had to climb on TOP of the tool bench just to get to the tools we needed.
We decided that we will probably fix the one rotted back board and the lifter system, & patch the ceiling, for now. We'll fix the bent plate on the jack, get a jack wheel, and pull out the carpet, clean up the cushions; and leave the major interior overhaul for summer weather. I'm thinking that I would like to replace the whole roof inside and pull up all the cabinetry and put down a new floor. But I can't see all that happening before Mother's day - esp when I have to work every other weekend.
So we'll tacke the worst things first, I guess.
I did post some photos of the mess we made today -
(http://thumb14.webshots.net/t/59/459/2/91/99/2936291990100639314NjideU_th.jpg) (http://home-and-garden.webshots.com/photo/2936291990100639314NjideU)
Phwew!!! I'm relieved...............I thought maybe you tried the rope around the tree and the tree fell on your truck and...............well......you fill in the blanks :yikes:
Now......if the PB stuff doesn't work, let it dry out and take a propane torch to the hitch socket.........(please don't set the truck on fire :( )
When steel oxidizes it swells by about 25% but it also turns to powder (Rust). It's just that the powder occupies all of the space between the 2 pieces of metal. Heating the metal will make it expand and should allow for some movement.
If that doesn't work.......to heck with it. Put the pin back in and call it a day. At least you will know that no one can steal your receiver. :D
Quote from: waveryIf that doesn't work.......to heck with it. Put the pin back in and call it a day. At least you will know that no one can steal your receiver. :D
I was thinking that, but then I remembered...she needs a different drop for this trailer. We gotta get that sucker out of there! :yikes:
Austin
Here's an idea (j/k of course) next time you come to a stop light JAM you brakes on real fast and hold on tight. The person behind you is probably on their cell phone and let them loosen it for you. :-()
A person on the Popup Explorer forum delt with a similar problem. You can check out the results in the Fix It forum there.It is now on page 10 under the Stupid Hitch Insertion Trick post or http://www.popupexplorer.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC.ID=42070
I have one reciever that requires an adapter sleeve on it, due to the hole in the reciever being larger than the retaining pin, if yours happens to be using a similar smaller diameter pin, make sure the sleeve is not still in the hole. If it is in the hole, a drift punch could be used to tap it out.
Quote from: TXpopperI have one reciever that requires an adapter sleeve on it, due to the hole in the reciever being larger than the retaining pin, if yours happens to be using a similar smaller diameter pin, make sure the sleeve is not still in the hole. If it is in the hole, a drift punch could be used to tap it out.
I was thinking about that sleeve too. It has held me back...for a second...a time or two.
I also thought about the torch trick too. I can't believe a good whack with a sledge isn't loosening things up! I have left drawbars in my Nissan for over a year, and they slid right out.
Larry
Another vote for PB Blaster and a hammer.
I'd pull the pin and replace it with a 5/16" or 3/8" bolt or rod before I start hammering on it. That way you'll still be able to hammer a tapered punch in the hole if you got the hitch head to move. If you pound the hitch head past the bolt hole and you can't hammer it out from behind it creates more problems.
Are you sure it's not welded in? Hard to believe a hard blow from the side with a hammer wont move it at all?
Quote from: waveryPhwew!!! I'm relieved...............I thought maybe you tried the rope around the tree and the tree fell on your truck and...............well......you fill in the blanks :yikes:
Now......if the PB stuff doesn't work, let it dry out and take a propane torch to the hitch socket.........(please don't set the truck on fire :( )
When steel oxidizes it swells by about 25% but it also turns to powder (Rust). It's just that the powder occupies all of the space between the 2 pieces of metal. Heating the metal will make it expand and should allow for some movement.
If that doesn't work.......to heck with it. Put the pin back in and call it a day. At least you will know that no one can steal your receiver. :D
The only problem with heating the metal with a torch, propane or acetylene, is that it will weaken the metal. Heat changes the composition of the metal. That is why there is a warning on most trailer frames or tongues not to heat or weld.
Dave
No, it's not welded, nor does it have any sleeve - It's very simple, though it always was a bit tight.
I never kept the hitch in, because I haven't had a trailer to pull since 2001, and didn't pull it much before that. I did use it occasionally to pull a trailer for the troop - but we had many dads who have full size trucks better equiped to pull the big trailer, canoe trailer and the flatbed bike trailer - so my van was seldom needed as a tow vehicle.
So from the last trip with the '76 PUP in Oct 2001, to Sept 2006, the hitch has not been used, and stayed empty. However, I live in Illinois, near the WI border, where we get lots of snow, slush and the state uses alot of salt on the roads. (my spare tire underneath is very rusty - I doubt it will ever come off, either) the receiver probably had some rust inside it when Will put the hitch back in - in sept 2006.
It was a very crazy time, we weren't sure if Will was going to stay with us permanently or what - the household was turned upside down, trying to settle his family's stuff and get him and his sister setlled somewhere after their Dad died. Will put the trailer hitch in and used the van to haul his stuff for 4-5 weeks in Sept & Oct. the hitch stayed in the whole time. I asked him to remove it a number of times, but it never happened. After he moved out in late Oct, I tried to get it out, but couldn't. We got snow early in Nov, and just never had time to work on it. so it stayed in all winter. More snow, wet & salt.
SO....we're still trying to get it loose. I think the PB is penetrating, but it's slow. We can get at it from the back a little, but have been working with a reg hammer - I'll try the back of the Axe (though I know it's not the proper way to use an Axe!) as I don't have a sledghammer.
the next step would be to try and drill out the hitch, trying to save the receiver.
Heat would be my last resort - before dumping it and going to a hole new hitch and receiver. I don't want to have to spend the $$ - I'd rather put it toward the camper itself.
Laura
Quote from: mach8274The only problem with heating the metal with a torch, propane or acetylene, is that it will weaken the metal. Heat changes the composition of the metal. That is why there is a warning on most trailer frames or tongues not to heat or weld.
Dave
I doubt very much that your trailer hitch or receiver was tempered (hardened) after being welded together.
I would bet that 90% of all hitches are made of cold-rolled steel and very receptive to heating and welding. There is NO WAY that you are going to change the hardness of the steel in a trailer hitch with a propane torch. You couldn't get the hitch red hot if you left the torch on it all day. You may be able to heat it enough to get the receiver to expand enough to break the rust-weld.
If all else fails, you could even cut the receiver part of the trailer hitch off and have a new one welded on. However, It may be cheaper to just buy a whole new hitch. They really aren't expensive. You can probably buy a class 3 hitch for around $100. I had one custom made and installed on my Chrysler Concorde for $150.
I'm a big fan of PB Blaster and sledge hammers. I'm also a big fan of DIY, and hate the thought of having to pay someone do anything I that I know (or think) I can do myself.
But. Sometimes you (and I) have to seek professional help. :eyecrazy:
I can't imagine that a decent welding shop, or garage, with the proper equipment, would charge much to loosen and remove the offending piece. (Proper equipment=sledge hammers, drifts and the know-how to use flames-or not-around fuel tanks. Metal expands when heated, but so does gasoline, but at a much faster rate. Ax faces can chip when used as hammers, ruining the ax and maybe local vision devices.)
Give the PB Blaster a few more days, with daily applications of both the penetrant and the hammer to the part that is supposed to come out. That should work, but if it doesn't, surrender. Ask for help at the local shop.
Just my .02.
I was just thinking :yikes:
If you can get in behind that thing with an air hammer with a drift punch attachment, that may well just do the job for you. If you've ever tried to take a rusted not off of a bolt, it's the same concept. You can put a 3' breaker bar on the nut and it won't budge. However, you put and impact wrench on it and it may well free up within a matter of seconds. An air hammer can apply more blows to that part in 30 seconds than you can with a hammer in 8 hours.