Need input on wheather or not to buy a BAL leveler? I have heard that people like them but how are they on saving set-up time, ease of use, durability, storage, and weight/size. Also, do you only buy one for one side? I saw there is a BAL locking chock, is this needed? I would prefer to only buy one thing if possible.
It's strictly a preference thing. You can easily level with a BAL, Lynx levelers or even wood.
I have a BAL and it's great. What I love about it is I can get the pup into the exact position I want it in and just crank it up. It's easy to use.
As for the locking chocks, I plan on getting them some day, but for now, I'll stick to my $1.98 Walmart chocks. Work just fine with the leveler.
What Fritz said. Strictly preference.
I have a BAL and I really like it. I camp by myself with my kids and they just aren't old enough to trust when it comes to getting the trailer parked on wood or Lynx levelers. With the BAL I can level without help.
The BAL fits right inside my PU door. I still have the bottom of the box and I keep that inside a big trash bag ... I just slide it in last thing before we leave. We store the box/bag under the PU while we are camping.
I don't have the locking chock and have no intention of buying one, but I do know that people who have that combination love it.
I love my BAL leveler :-() . Not only is it easier to level but the camper is a lot more steady when walking around inside the camper (it doesn't seem to rock as much)
Quote from: outdoors5Need input on wheather or not to buy a BAL leveler? I have heard that people like them but how are they on saving set-up time, ease of use, durability, storage, and weight/size. Also, do you only buy one for one side? I saw there is a BAL locking chock, is this needed? I would prefer to only buy one thing if possible.
Ditto to what everyone has said. We have the locking chock too only because DH wanted to buy it as well since we didn't have any kind of chock to begin with. It helps in leveling and does make the pup more steady when inside moving around.
Good luck with your decision.
I am a NEW-BE could some one explane the ball leveler and locking choks to me. I have not even camped in our camper yet that is how new it is to me. The guy I bought it from went over the whole set up and tear down with me. Basically he told me to use the front wheel on the tongue of the trailer to level front to back and then crank down the stabolizer pads until they are snug to the ground. Can some one explane if there is another process and if something else is reccomended, thanks.
Do a little ebay or google search and you'll see the BAL levelers. Basically a U shaped scissor type jack that fits around one wheel. Then you turn the crank on the BAL leveler and that lifts the trailer on one side, via that wheel. So, it levels the trailer side to side very fast. You can use your tongue jack to level front to back. When you've got it all trued up, you crank down your 4 stabilizer legs so it's supported well.
Haven't purchase one yet, but it's the next thing on my shopping list!
Thanks for all of the helpful information. I'm leaning towards getting the BAL leveler. Does anyone have input on how heavy the BAL leveler is? Would it be close to the equal amount of wood to level? One other question: What is, if any the advatage of having the BAL locking chock over a regular chock?
Quote from: outdoors5Thanks for all of the helpful information. I'm leaning towards getting the BAL leveler. Does anyone have input on how heavy the BAL leveler is? Would it be close to the equal amount of wood to level? One other question: What is, if any the advatage of having the BAL locking chock over a regular chock?
Seems to me it weighs around 20 pounds.
Kelly's close, shipping weight is 18.75 lbs. It's worth the weight it takes up and then some. We've been using the BAL for over 5 years.
Here's a pretty darn good price on it....
http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-jacks/tire-leveler.htm
Quote from: ForestCreatureKelly's close, shipping weight is 18.75 lbs.
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LOL ~ nothing like splitting hairs, Marcy!
Quote from: ronerjonesI am a NEW-BE could some one explane the ball leveler and locking choks to me. I have not even camped in our camper yet that is how new it is to me. The guy I bought it from went over the whole set up and tear down with me. Basically he told me to use the front wheel on the tongue of the trailer to level front to back and then crank down the stabolizer pads until they are snug to the ground. Can some one explane if there is another process and if something else is reccomended, thanks.
Wow, bad advice. Very bad. Stabalizers are *NOT* to be used to level the trailer.
You need to also level it side to side which is probably more important then anything.
The cheapest way is with some boards or lynx levelers. You park your PUP and then see which side is lower. Then you put some boards down and drive up on them. Check to see if you're near level, if not back off and get more boards. You need to be as level side to side as you can.
Then you can use the tongue jack to level front to back.
Then you crank up and then you put the stabalizer jacks down.
The Bal Leveler just replaces the boards. You park, put the Bal under the low side wheel and then crank it up until you're level.
First, ronerjones posted:
Quote from: ronerjonesI am a NEW-BE could some one explane the ball leveler and locking choks to me. I have not even camped in our camper yet that is how new it is to me. The guy I bought it from went over the whole set up and tear down with me. Basically he told me to use the front wheel on the tongue of the trailer to level front to back and then crank down the stabolizer pads until they are snug to the ground. Can some one explane if there is another process and if something else is reccomended, thanks.
Then bonscott replied with:
Quote from: bonscottWow, bad advice. Very bad. Stabalizers are *NOT* to be used to level the trailer.
I have read ronerjones post several times, and can't find anything wrong with the advice he was given. While you are correct that stabilizers are not levelers, nothing in ronerjones post suggests that they be used that way.
QuoteYou need to also level it side to side which is probably more important then anything.
The cheapest way is with some boards or lynx levelers. You park your PUP and then see which side is lower. Then you put some boards down and drive up on them. Check to see if you're near level, if not back off and get more boards. You need to be as level side to side as you can.
Then you can use the tongue jack to level front to back.
Then you crank up and then you put the stabalizer jacks down.
The Bal Leveler just replaces the boards. You park, put the Bal under the low side wheel and then crank it up until you're level.
Good advice.
Austin (who has never, ever misunderstood anything... :Z )
Quick question. I just bought a bal leveler and for those of you who use them dose it make any sence to place a flat piece of plywood under both tires so that when you use the leveler it slided easy under the tire. From what I have been reading the biggest complaint is when in soft sand or gravel sites it's sometimes challanging to put it on and or off. Mind you I just bought it and will be using it for the first time this weekend, I have been from the old school of just pulling up on wood and getting it close as we can. Thanks.
Toby.
Quote from: TobyQuick question. I just bought a bal leveler and for those of you who use them dose it make any sence to place a flat piece of plywood under both tires so that when you use the leveler it slided easy under the tire. From what I have been reading the biggest complaint is when in soft sand or gravel sites it's sometimes challanging to put it on and or off. Mind you I just bought it and will be using it for the first time this weekend, I have been from the old school of just pulling up on wood and getting it close as we can. Thanks.
Toby.
If you are on dirt, sand or very uneven ground, it can be a little difficult to put under the tire. I have used my Bal-leveler about 20 times. It has been difficult to place about 2 or 3. I wouldn't consider bringing a piece of plywood. I've always worked it out and the last thing I need is one more piece to add to the puzzle :D . Besides, if the ground is uneven or soft, the plywood could crack or distort (from the weight of the PU and/or moisture on the ground) in a way that it may make it even
more difficult to get out when you get ready to leave. Just not worth it IMHO.
In all the time (about 5 yrs) we have used the BAL, we have had to put something under the tire once, soft or hard ground. I still think it was because the tire was under inflated.
I've put a piece of wood under the BAL one time. But I took a good look and it's not really needed, some day I may have to put something under it some time to get the BAL out, but after the first use, I haven't needed the wood to put the BAL around the tire.
I still carry the wood, but haven't used it for about a year, it stays in the compartment of the stepper door. I figure what else would I put in there? It's not a waterproof compartment, so there's not a whole lot I would want to put in there.
I just purchased two of these as I was told that with a dual axel - I would need two - I have not used them yet, but after reading all of the great comments, I can't wait to use them.
I may just experiment with them while the trailer is in the driveway, that way I can have four or five neighbors come over and give me unsolicited advice :D
Quote from: TechrangerbradI just purchased two of these as I was told that with a dual axel - I would need two - I have not used them yet, but after reading all of the great comments, I can't wait to use them.
I may just experiment with them while the trailer is in the driveway, that way I can have four or five neighbors come over and give me unsolicited advice :D
You might want to consider getting a drill motor, adapter, swivel and 3/4" socket to run up the levelers. One isn't too bad to do by hand. Two could be a pain.
I run mine up with a drill, then I run my top up with the same drill by just changing the sockets. It really cuts down on set-up time and labor.:sombraro:
I have one and hate it. ity's slow, hard and a general pain in the paduka. now I am forced to buy a 500# in-lb rechargable drill w/ torque handle to crank the thing up and down - may try it for the stabs and roof lift , too. when will the madness stop!
Quote from: outdoors5Need input on wheather or not to buy a BAL leveler? I have heard that people like them but how are they on saving set-up time, ease of use, durability, storage, and weight/size. Also, do you only buy one for one side? I saw there is a BAL locking chock, is this needed? I would prefer to only buy one thing if possible.
Quote from: haroldPEI have one and hate it. ity's slow, hard and a general pain in the paduka. now I am forced to buy a 500# in-lb rechargable drill w/ torque handle to crank the thing up and down - may try it for the stabs and roof lift , too. when will the madness stop!
NEVER don'tcha just love it :-()
WELCOME TO PUT!!!!
I'm a true NEW-B too, and I'm not too sure about all this levelling. We haven't used our Pop-up Trailer yet, but is it necessary to balance everything. I can understand balancing end to end but unless you are on a really crappy campsite you shouldn't have to balance side to side...do you? We are going this wknd for the very first time and we are taking wood blocks to balance front to back and a wedge under the tires. Is there more that we need other than that? Our trailer doesn't have cranks and stuff that others are talking about. In the driveway it seems to balance just fine and i assume our campsite this weekend will be fairly flat too. I need some help, I don't want to go and find out the hard way I need something else or if my wife and I get a little frisky(which I doubt) I don't want to tip the trailer. Any help or suggestions from the veteran campers???
It's not at all uncommon for me to be at a site that is not even close to level side-to-side. One reason I pup camp is to be able to camp in sites a tad more primitive (and usually more un-level) than the big RV's. Similar to standard tent camping sites.
I find side-to-side leveling important for a couple reasons.
1. I just get annoyed living out of a sloped pup. Makes you have to consider which direction to sleep (annoying to have head downhill, etc.), and is just generally not comfortable to me. This is a subjective crtieria of course. This may not bother you.
2. When cranking up the top on a pup that is not level side-to-side, you are exerting more lateral stress on the frame than is desired I believe. This is especially prevalent if you have an AC unit mounted on top (they are always off to one side or the other, throwing off the balance of the roof if not level). Watch your four corner posts bend as they extend if you don't believe me.
So, I use to use wood and do endless iterations of readjusting and backing up, etc, before getting it right. I just bought a BAL though and used it for the first time a couple weeks back. Man, that was SWEET! I'm never going back. Worth every penny.
Quote from: HandymanI'm a true NEW-B too, and I'm not too sure about all this levelling. We haven't used our Pop-up Trailer yet, but is it necessary to balance everything. I can understand balancing end to end but unless you are on a really crappy campsite you shouldn't have to balance side to side...do you?
That depends. Sleeping on an incline can be uncomfortable. The fridge (if you have one) needs to be reasonably level (but most of us level much more accurately than the fridge needs).
QuoteWe are going this wknd for the very first time and we are taking wood blocks to balance front to back and a wedge under the tires. Is there more that we need other than that?
Have you seen the campsite? We have popped up in hundreds of campgrounds in 26 states. Most places are OK, but just about everywhere you can find
terrible sites.
QuoteOur trailer doesn't have cranks and stuff that others are talking about.
I'm sure it has "stabilizers" of some sort - they go to the ground after you set up in order to keep the camper from tipping. Not all stabilizers crank down, but I've never heard of a pop-up that didn't have them.
QuoteIn the driveway it seems to balance just fine and i assume our campsite this weekend will be fairly flat too. I need some help, I don't want to go and find out the hard way I need something else or if my wife and I get a little frisky(which I doubt) I don't want to tip the trailer. Any help or suggestions from the veteran campers???
What is the make/model of your trailer, and whay year is it?
Austin
Quote from: raptorSo, I use to use wood and do endless iterations of readjusting and backing up, etc, before getting it right.
Wow! I've only had to change the Linx from my original guess about three times, and they were all in the first year or two. 95% of the time, I look at the site and know what I'm going to need. The other 5%, the bubble level shows me that I need one more (or less) Lynx than I thought. Pull on, and it's right. End of story.
If I had to do what you used to, I'd throw those Linx out and get a BAL! :D
Austin
Quote from: AustinBostonWow! I've only had to change the Linx from my original guess about three times, and they were all in the first year or two. ...
Austin
I'm sure that can be explained by a couple quirks of mine.
1. I'm ridiculously anal when it comes to things like putting the bubble exactly between the two center lines - for no good reason I know - it's just the way I am.
2. I'm not particularly expert at backing a trailer..
3. I didn't use linx. When I say "wood" I mean like scrap 2x4 wedges, etc. Low tech. If I had prepared better wood I surely would have had better experience. I've even used random rocks from the campsite on several occasions. Just poor preparation mostly.
Bottom line: I'm sure there are plenty of tools by which to relatively easily level your pup - but I mostly wanted to say that I consider it important to level.
Quote from: AustinBostonThat depends. Sleeping on an incline can be uncomfortable. The fridge (if you have one) needs to be reasonably level (but most of us level much more accurately than the fridge needs).
I completely get what you are saying there and didn't think about that before. I guess I'm being a little nieve to think that my campsite is going to be flat. First time at this campground, so I guess we'll learn as we go. Since we don't have one of this special things that everyone is talking about, would you suggest bringing different size pieces of wood or some plywood planks to park on?
I'm sure it has "stabilizers" of some sort - they go to the ground after you set up in order to keep the camper from tipping. Not all stabilizers crank down, but I've never heard of a pop-up that didn't have them.
Our trailer is 1992 Coachman Camper. It has some stabilizer things on the back end of the trailer, but the guy said he always just put wood blocks underneath the frame. It also has the wheel thing at the front. Can't I just level the trailer front to back with the wheel at the front by cranking it up or down and then locking it in when its level. I realize I probably sound like an idiot asking these questions but I'm truly a New-B and I'm not really a Handyman although that's my handle. Anything you could suggest. Our current intention is to bring some different size pieces of wood and some wedges to put under the tires so it doesn't roll. Do you think this is ok? Or do I need more to it?
Quote from: raptorWhen I say "wood" I mean like scrap 2x4 wedges, etc.
Ah, hard to get within an inch if you go in 2" increments. ;)
QuoteBottom line: I'm sure there are plenty of tools by which to relatively easily level your pup - but I mostly wanted to say that I consider it important to level.
And - do what works for you.
Austin
Quote from: HandymanOur trailer is 1992 Coachman Camper. It has some stabilizer things on the back end of the trailer, but the guy said he always just put wood blocks underneath the frame. It also has the wheel thing at the front. Can't I just level the trailer front to back with the wheel at the front by cranking it up or down and then locking it in when its level. I realize I probably sound like an idiot asking these questions but I'm truly a New-B and I'm not really a Handyman although that's my handle. Anything you could suggest. Our current intention is to bring some different size pieces of wood and some wedges to put under the tires so it doesn't roll. Do you think this is ok? Or do I need more to it?
Most of us level the camper front to rear (or viseversa) using that "wheel thing" on the front ~ some folks refer to it as a tongue jack or the front dolly wheel jack (LOL) ~ and those rear "stabilizer things" (pretty close) are called stabiler jacks (there's the B.A.L. crank down and the older telescoping kind, usually just refered to as stab jacks). I suspect you have the older stab jacks and how you work those is to just let them drop to the ground by pulling back on a little release lever and then using a jack handle, ratchet them down to where they are snug. Of course, leveling side to side, a lot of times you have to raise one side of the trailer or the other and that's done by having something inder one wheel and raising one side of the camper to the desired height ~ you can do this with a block of wood or by some other more elaborate devices. As for me, I just use wood blocks that are 1" or 2" thick. As for not allowing the trailer to roll (very good idea!), I just picked up from Wal-Mart those yellow (plastic) wheel chocks ~ after leveling side to side and before I un-hitch, out come the wheel chocks and placed front and rear of each wheel (tire). A lot of hard lessons have been learned that by not chocking the wheels and un-hitching the trailer, it will want to travel all by itself!(LOL).
Good luck
Fly
My wife (and father-in-law) can attest to the importance of putting the rear stablizer jacks down. Otherwise when you enter your PUP, the tongue of the trailer may truely POP UP and you will find yourself in a precarious position.
Like Fly said, the stablizers you have on the rear are relatively easy to use. They are kept in the up position by a spring. To get them down you need to pull the stablizers towards the front of the PUP. The stablizers should move forward enough to allow you to keep pulling the stablizers towards the front of the PUP and then swing down towards the ground. When you let go (in the down position) it will spring back up and lock in the down position. Then like Fly said, push the lever down, the stablizers will slide to the ground (assuming it's not rusted in place) and using a jack handle you can snug it to the ground.
Keep in mind, these are stablizers and NOT jacks. Do not try to lift the camper off of the tires using the stablizers. You will twist the frame and could damage the lift system on your PUP.
You can continue to use wooden blocks, but the blocks are fixed in size. The stablizers will allow you almost infinitely more adjustment without the headache of putting more wood in, taking some out, putting more in, taking some out, etc.....
travis
Quote from: HandymanWe are going this wknd for the very first time and we are taking wood blocks to balance front to back and a wedge under the tires. Is there more that we need other than that?
I have had problems keeping the blocks in place while driving the pup onto them. I have had them shoot out from under the wheel (picture a 2x4 pumpkin seed).
When I replaced my softside popup with a Chalet, the first extra doodad I bought was a BAL leveler and I have never regretted it.
Pete.
Au contraire! A 2x4" is only about 1-1/2" or so thick. So you will always be able to get within an inch with 2x4" 's.
me? I have a Bal - hated and desspised it until I bought the 500 in-lb drill Friday. Now I can put up with its weight, bulkiness and greasyness (also bough a foot long piece of 1" tubing to cover the threads when not in use).
Quote from: AustinBostonAh, hard to get within an inch if you go in 2" increments. ;)
And - do what works for you.
Austin
Quote from: flyfishermanA lot of hard lessons have been learned that by not chocking the wheels and un-hitching the trailer, it will want to travel all by itself!(LOL).
Good luck
Fly
Yeah Buddy. Thought we lucked out on the side to side on our maiden voyage. Perfect bubble. Thought .."Shoot, piece of cake". Failed to and look at the incline level. Guess what got left at home? Cranked up the tounge jack and then the rodeo effect occured. I jump on the tounge and try to dig me heels in...slide right off, finally the second attempt I get it stopped and throw some firewood under the wheel. The whole time my kid's yelling to DW... " Mom.. Dad's riding the trailer again!". We still argue wether I stayed on for the full 8 count. All though I did get a standing ovation from the onlookers for keeping my cool and not letting things get out hand. Somehow they knew I was from Kentucky for some reason. Said .." We ain't had this much fun since Bufford found that yellow jacket in his sleeping bag."... Those little $2.99 yellow wheel cocks from Walmart are the first thing I see when I open the trailer door.
Anyway that was my SPUT.
Marcy, thanks for the link.
I've been wanting to get one of those for some time.
Now I have one ordered. Russ
I have a newbie question about the BAL Leveler. It seems what this is doing is just jacking up one side of the camper. Can I just use a regular car jack under one side?
And come to think of it. Why in heck can't I jack up the camper using the stabilizers? It seems PU's would be a whole lot better if the manufacturers of these things made it so we could.
Quote from: DrayI have a newbie question about the BAL Leveler. It seems what this is doing is just jacking up one side of the camper. Can I just use a regular car jack under one side?
And come to think of it. Why in heck can't I jack up the camper using the stabilizers? It seems PU's would be a whole lot better if the manufacturers of these things made it so we could.
You can use a car jack (bottle jack) however I have never been in a camper as stable and firm as since we purchased our BAL. It's great to pull in, look to see what side to level with BAL and out wheel chocks on other side and be done. No more leveler blocks 2x4's back up pull forward..oops too far!
I too purchased the BAL leveler and it worked great, until that really sloped campsite. It was outrageously slanted, and I had my doubts about getting the PU level. Having nothing else to use, I started cranking the BAL leveler up. As the jack continued to rise, I became nervous about the tire now being completely off the ground. Sure enough, the leveler stripped. As I hunted the campgrounds for any leftover firewood to drive onto, I vowed to purchase a leveling system with no moving parts. I purchased the Lynx levelers, with the chock that secures to it (the pieces lock together like Legos), and have had no further leveling problems.
The BAL leveler is a great product, I just think that I asked too much of it on that outing.
Rick
02 Trailblazer
04 Flagstaff 823D
I'm gonna go get one. With two small kids it seems that when we first get to the cg they of course want to get out right away. It's understandable. Usually they've been in the car a couple hours. So to keep them in the TV while I try go back and forth onto a dumb piece of wood can be stressful. I could let them out but then DW gets distracted cause she's watching them and turns out that she doesn't help me that well.
I also like the idea that this helps out with stabilizing the PU. DW complained (jokingly) that when I turn over in bed the whole camper shakes! I'm one of those who flops when I turn over at night! HA HA
Quote from: i2like2campI
The BAL leveler is a great product, I just think that I asked too much of it on that outing.
Rick
We have had ours cranked up darn near to the top of the threads more than once ...(really sucks when that happens on the door side) and not had issues.
There was a bad batch a bit back, where either the threads were stripping or the plates broke off, I hope you contacted Norco and let them know, they will replace it.
http://www.norcoind.com/bal/contact.htm
Quote from: DrayI have a newbie question about the BAL Leveler. It seems what this is doing is just jacking up one side of the camper. Can I just use a regular car jack under one side?
And come to think of it. Why in heck can't I jack up the camper using the stabilizers? It seems PU's would be a whole lot better if the manufacturers of these things made it so we could.
Using the car jack is not advisable for leveling. You could damage either the axle or the frame. It is best to lift the trailer with the tire only.
Using the stabilizers to level the camper is not a good idea either. You can easily bend the frame doing that. The stabilizer are meant only to
stabilize the trailer and
never lift it. Refer to your owner's manual.
When using the stabilizers you merely put them firmly on the ground.
If you use a drill motor with the Bal Leveler (as I do) you may want to consider using a swivel with the 3/4" socket that drives the screw. On mine, when the leveler gets to a certain height, the drill motor hits the side of the trailer if I don't use a swivel.
Congrats on your decision, Dray. Do consider a drill and 3/4" socket to put it up and down - else you will not be saving any time with a a ratchet wrench (50 times) up AND down.
Quote from: DrayI'm gonna go get one. With two small kids it seems that when we first get to the cg they of course want to get out right away. It's understandable. Usually they've been in the car a couple hours. So to keep them in the TV while I try go back and forth onto a dumb piece of wood can be stressful. I could let them out but then DW gets distracted cause she's watching them and turns out that she doesn't help me that well.
I also like the idea that this helps out with stabilizing the PU. DW complained (jokingly) that when I turn over in bed the whole camper shakes! I'm one of those who flops when I turn over at night! HA HA