This has not been much of an issue for me so far but I have a very important question about leveling. Up until now I have only camped at specified camp grounds that provide a nice level pad to park on. I have only had to wory about leveling front to back and up we go.
I am planning to camp in November in an area that is just ground by the side of a lake. I could find an area that is pretty level but most likely it will be on a slight slant. I have seen the things you clamp to the wheel of the trailer to jack it up. Is this actuall going to be necessary, and/or is there another solution for levelling? Other than having a trailer on a slant do I risk any damage to the PUP if I am not level?
Any suggestions are greatly appreciated, thanks.
Wood!
The clamp on device you mention is a Bal single tire light trailer leveler. No, you do not need this. You can use 2x6 boards. I have not used them - I used Lynx levelers (like legos), but I would surmise you can get by very well with 2x6's 1 each of the following lengths: 12", 18", 24". This will get you up to a total of 4-1/2".
Like I said, I haven't used wood, but it is used by many, and some others should chime in to help.
I'm a huge fan of the "BAL Leveler." Best $52 I've spent on the PUP.
Here's why I like it.
1) I can park my PUP anywhere I want.....in other words, unhitch from the truck and wheel it to where I want.
2) Leveling side to side then takes about a minute.
3) Then level front to back using the tongue jack and it's time to pop up.
If you use wood or lynx levelers, you really need to have your TV push the PUP up onto them, and you need to be watching the level....well, have someone watching the level while you do so, so you know when to stop raising by backing up or pulling forward.
To me, it's worth the $52 to by high speed, low drag. Amertized over the number of times I'll use it, both here at home, and at the campsite, it's cheap.
And to your question about being level and doing damage.
Yes, there is potential to damage your lift system if you pop up and aren't level. Also, unless you are level, you will damage your ammonia absorbtion fridge permanently.
The easiest-to-use system is the BAL leveler. The cheapest is the scrap wood system. I use Lynx levelers, which come somewhere in between, both on price and functionality.
Austin
BAL leveler
I'm a woody myself. Use either a 2X6 or a 1X6 (both are about a foot long). I scrounged both pieces from a building site in my neighborhood, meaning the cost was zero. Someone mentioned the BAL leveler only set them back $52.00 ~ hey! ... that's 52 dollars worth of valuable fishing tackle money! Can't be swandering fishing tackle money on non-essentials!
Fly
Just don't use your stabilizers to level the camper.
Larry, member of the orange Lynx club
I use this (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2419827030098996296ncESQk) leveling board. I made it with a 5/4x6 pressure treated decking board. Each section is glued and screwed together. It gives 1" lift per board, and I can lift up to 4". I also had enough left over to make 5 sand pads, each about 8" long.
I strap this board to my trailer tongue with bungees between the propane tank and camper body. This was a good cheap solution to me, and I don't have to deal with grease. It doesn't take much time to decide where the board goes, and my levels show how many inches of lift I need, so I usually get the right amount of lift the first time. If I know I need 2", I just drive up onto the 2nd level.
Labor Day weekend, though, I fooled myself. The campsite area was very sloped, but the parking pad was gravel and just slightly off-level. I saw on the level that I needed about 1" of lift, so I put the board down and drove up on it. Wrong side! My FIL hollers out that the bubble went the wrong way. So, we did it again on the other side. I would have made that same mistake with the BAL, though. The slope around the site gave me the false illusion of the slope going the other way. All weekend long while walking back from the bath house approaching the site, my camper looked out of level. But the levels read level, and once inside, it felt perfectly level.
My observation has been that if you use 2x6's, also take some 1x6's. My experience so far is that I don't want more than 1" increments in lift. Usually, 1" is slightly too much, so if I only had 2x6's, that problem would be even worse.
We pull up on a hard plastic thingy with two levels, sorta steps. That way you can pull up a little, then more if not enough.
we have camped a few places where the "slant" was so severe we dug a hole for the high side tire. Just a thought if you have a serious leveling problem.
Sherry
Quote from: flyfisherman...Someone mentioned the BAL leveler only set them back $52.00 ~ hey! ... that's 52 dollars worth of valuable fishing tackle money! Can't be swandering fishing tackle money on non-essentials! Fly
Hey, I'm no idiot.....I took that money out of my daughter's smore fund. Daddy's not going without his gadgets and mods, and let's face it, she can only cry so long before either passing out or falling asleep. Either way, it's silent again!
YA!!! Wood's a good idea :D
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v333/wkavery/Overloaded.jpg)
Bal is definately NOT the easiest to use, unless you have a drill to crank it. It adds time to both setup (cranking the little wrench for several minutes) and tear-down (again wrench turning, when you simply pull of the lynx or boards).
Don't get me wrong - I now use the Bal and love it, but only with a drill, 'u'-joint adapter and 3/4" socket. The little wrench is a PITA.
Bal is a luxury item, not a 'need'.
Quote from: AustinBostonThe easiest-to-use system is the BAL leveler. The cheapest is the scrap wood system. I use Lynx levelers, which come somewhere in between, both on price and functionality.
Austin
Great info to go on. I think I will try out the wood version since I only need it for November. I do not plan to camp off the beat and path because mama doesn't do that. I do take my girls camping every November (thats strictly Dad and My 2 daughters) till now we have tented but now that we have the PUP I don't think they want to tent.
I am interested in the level that shows how many inches off you are. Can you tell me where you found that.
Quote from: ronerjonesI am interested in the level that shows how many inches off you are. Can you tell me where you found that.
There are all kinds of levels, certainly the RV stores have all kinds and even seen a set at Wal-Mart. Usually these types adhere to the camper (after it has been leveled) so that when setting up in the future you can just take a glance and see where your at. I've got a set of these (a birthday or holiday gift) but have never installed them. Instead, I have a "torpedo" level which is about 10" long (sort of a short version of a carpenter's level) and centering the bubble means whatever is being checked is level. I like this "shorty" level as there are three or four places I like to check to make sure the camper is level. And, if need be, the little leveler can be used in other applications whereas the one attached to the camper are there and there only! Don't remember the cost, but was not very mcuh ... maybe ten bucks.
When I first pull into/back into a camping site, while the camper is still hitched, I check the side to side level. If off, I correct with a wood block (or dig the opposite side down with my trusty entrecnching tool), anyway, when the side to side is straight, I then unhitch and then level fore and aft (front to back) using the tounge jack. Then it's popup time and after that's completed, drop the stabilizers and re-check the front to rear level again. Very quickly finish any other immediate set-up camp task, then get out the fly rod and head for the river.
Fly
Quote from: ronerjonesI am interested in the level that shows how many inches off you are. Can you tell me where you found that.
I got mine from
Camping World and they work great. I later saw them at WalMart.
What I did was get my PUP perfectly level with a 2' level in the center of the floor inside. I then added clear 100% silicone on the back of the levels around the edges (not over the adhesive). I pressed the levels on (reading level of course) and spread the silicone smooth with my finger where it had squeezed out around the edges. Check again that they are reading level and adjust if necessary before the caulk cures. The silicone helps the levels stay put even better than just the factory installed double-sided tape.
I went to Wal-Mart today and they carry the Lynx Leverers ($30.00) I think I have reconsidered and will be buying a set (10 per pack). They only weight a few pounds and take up little to no room for storage. Best yet there is no prep time in making something.
ONE MORE QUESTION ON LEVELING????????
If I lift one side of the trailer do I need to worry much about the trailer rolling off the lift. The Lynx system has a new product that will add wheel stops to the lift. Wal-Mart did not have them. I am hopeing that they will get them. If I put wheel stops on the opposite side that will not necessarily keep the trailer from shifting especially if I am on a slant.
Quote from: ronerjonesONE MORE QUESTION ON LEVELING????????
If I lift one side of the trailer do I need to worry much about the trailer rolling off the lift. The Lynx system has a new product that will add wheel stops to the lift. Wal-Mart did not have them. I am hopeing that they will get them. If I put wheel stops on the opposite side that will not necessarily keep the trailer from shifting especially if I am on a slant.
You really need to block at least two points - both wheels, or one wheel and the tongue jack. This is especially true if the tongue jack is a wheel.
However, even this is not adequate if the trailer is parked on a slope where it can roll forward or backward down the slope. In that case, you must reliably chock both wheels, or bad things may happen.
When using Lynx, sometimes extra Lynx can be built up to form a crude chock, but the best choice is their Lynx Chock-N-Block, which is very solid.
Austin
Man, for 12 more bucks you could have the real deal! Oh well.....
As AB says, chock both sides! That's the other nice thing about the BAL Leveler, it locks one wheel up nicely.
Quote from: ronerjonesONE MORE QUESTION ON LEVELING????????
If I lift one side of the trailer do I need to worry much about the trailer rolling off the lift. The Lynx system has a new product that will add wheel stops to the lift. Wal-Mart did not have them. I am hopeing that they will get them. If I put wheel stops on the opposite side that will not necessarily keep the trailer from shifting especially if I am on a slant.
Which is where the BAL leveler comes in so handy.
Christmas is coming, so put it on your list!! We asked for it for Christmas -- my mom always asks what we need for camping and either she gets it or my family goes together to get it for us. Great way to get these more expensive toys.
Since we've had it, DH has sung it's praises. When we camped in Lake Tahoe, we had to dig out one tire and had the other one way up in the air. Wouldn't have been able to level if we didn't have the BAL leveler. IMHO, it's worth the money.
[High-Jack mode on]
Camping Coxes, I'm digging your turbo diesel 'burb!
[High-Jack mode off]
At the risk of sounding like a BAL ad, I just like the fact that I can park the PUP anywhere I want. When we were at the Grand Canyon we wound up in a tent site, so there was just a short parking area. There's no way we could have used that site with a PUP.
Not a problem. Disco the PUP, spin it sideways on the tongue jack, toss the BAL under the low side and a minute later it's level, we're popping up, and there's all kinds of room for the Suburban to back in. 2 weeks later we had the same situation in Kings Canyon, again, not a problem. Wouldn't have been possible without the BAL.
Here's the Kings Canyon site. Take a look at the steep angle the truck is parked at, and how high the right rear of the PUP is. You can see the BAL under the right wheel.
(http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x242/austinado16/Campsite.jpg)
Quote from: fallsriderI got mine from Camping World and they work great. I later saw them at WalMart.
What I did was get my PUP perfectly level with a 2' level in the center of the floor inside. I then added clear 100% silicone on the back of the levels around the edges (not over the adhesive). I pressed the levels on (reading level of course) and spread the silicone smooth with my finger where it had squeezed out around the edges. Check again that they are reading level and adjust if necessary before the caulk cures. The silicone helps the levels stay put even better than just the factory installed double-sided tape.
I too use these and I set them up originally the same way you did with a two foot level. Good idea with the sealant around the edges.
I use wood planks both 2X6s (actually 1-5/8X 5-5/8) and some 5/4 X 6 cut to various lengths that I had left over from a deck I put on the house a few years ago. I pull the pup and stop on the spot I want. Then DW get out and reads the level. I back up about 2 feet and get out and place the wood in front of the pup's tire that needs lifting. I already know how many pieces and thickness are needed by what DW told me the level was reading. Pull the pup forward and stop with the tire on the wood. DW pulls chocks and chocks PS tire and hands me two chocks and I chock the DS tire. Then just a matter of disconnecting from TV and leveling front to rear. Any wood not used for leveling can be used under the stabilizers and/or the tongue jack. Ready for setup.
Quote from: campdaddyI already know how many pieces and thickness are needed by what DW told me the level was reading.
It always amazes me how complicated some people make this. Even without markings on the level, you can quickly learn how much leveling is needed just by remembering what you've done before.
I can usually (more than 95% of the time) tell what I will need to do to level (direction and how much) before I even look at my bubble level.
Austin
Quote from: AustinBostonIt always amazes me how complicated some people make this. Even without markings on the level, you can quickly learn how much leveling is needed just by remembering what you've done before.
I can usually (more than 95% of the time) tell what I will need to do to level (direction and how much) before I even look at my bubble level.
Austin
Hey AB......are you trying to convince us that you are, "On the level"????? :p
Quote from: waveryHey AB......are you trying to convince us that you are, "On the level"????? :p
Let me level with you...there are some things that come to me flat out. I don't have to plumb the depths to be able to do them well.
Austin
Well...I had to try...
Quote from: ronerjonesThis has not been much of an issue for me so far but I have a very important question about leveling. Up until now I have only camped at specified camp grounds that provide a nice level pad to park on. I have only had to wory about leveling front to back and up we go.
I am planning to camp in November in an area that is just ground by the side of a lake. I could find an area that is pretty level but most likely it will be on a slight slant. I have seen the things you clamp to the wheel of the trailer to jack it up. Is this actuall going to be necessary, and/or is there another solution for levelling? Other than having a trailer on a slant do I risk any damage to the PUP if I am not level?
Any suggestions are greatly appreciated, thanks.
I am a single woman whose yard doesn't have a level spot on it. I usually have to tow, level and set up by myself. I first purchased the Lynx blocks and then the Bal leveler. I LOVE the bal leveler. I hand crank it and have no problem. I just set it crank it and done! I use my Lynx for the stablizers.
Quote from: CamperGirlI am a single woman .... I LOVE the bal leveler. I hand crank it and have no problem. I just set it crank it and done! I use my Lynx for the stablizers.
You go CamperGirl!
.........now who's the manly-man who deploys a power drill to operate his BAL?
Quote from: austinado16You go CamperGirl!
.........now who's the manly-man who deploys a power drill to operate his BAL?
Yes ... But ...
Having life that simple makes one more subject to fall into stodgy thinking; one begins to lose their mental agility, whereas using old wooden blocks that have been scrounged up here and there, keeps one's inventiveness alive!
Fly
Quote from: flyfishermanYes ... But ...
Having life that simple makes one more subject to fall into stodgy thinking; one begins to lose their mental agility, whereas using old wooden blocks that have been scrounged up here and there, keeps one's inventiveness alive!
Fly
'cept that a single mom with kidlets already has her "inventiveness" meter pegged and with no end in site. Picture, if you will, the little indians circling her wagon as she tries to set up camp single-hood.
I use lynx levelers. I have 2 sets of the 10 packs. They are awesome and I can't think of using anything else. I use them with my stabilizer's sand pads for extra stability. I use them to level my picnic table and previously, even used them under the tongue jack wheel. I have 2 lynx leveler chocks that also snap right on to the lynx levelers. That way I can back onto the levelers and have a stop so that I know when I'm on completely and don't overshoot the levelers.
I have 2 just incase both wheels need to be raised, as to make up for a front jack that can go no lower. Only had this happen to me once where the ground at the rear of the camper was a lot lower than the front, and just made it with enough lynx levelers. That's why I purchased a second 10 pack set. I don't know what I would had done if I had a BAL leveler.
I was going to buy the Bal leveler but heard of the failures where the screws stripped out, the wheel plate welds cracking, or even tires not fitting. Bal has great customer service by the praise from all the owners who had Bal failures, but that doesn't help when you can't level your camper because of a failure. I was afraid to use them, in the fear that the trailer would fall if the wheel plate broke off or if the screw stripped, dropping the trailer. This possibly causing some movement that would damage the camper or even jar the chocks loose.
For me, the lynx are awesome and offer benefits I can't find with the Bal leveler or cut wood plank lengths. They're not cheap but not that expensive either. They are also very easy to use. They snap together so they don't separate easily and all that's required is backing on them, take a bubble level and putting it on the frame to see if another is needed. Very simple and easy. I don't use those stick on levels, I use a standard magnetic level and attach it directly to the frame.
Each to their own likes, but it's lynx for me.
Have a good one.
Quote from: AustinBostonIt always amazes me how complicated some people make this.
Austin
Actually after re-reading my description of our leveling technique it reads a LOT more complicated than it really is. Once we have pulled into the spot, with DW and I working together it goes like teamwork and normally takes us less than 2 minutes to get the S2S level. Now next month we're planning a camping trip where it will be just DD'03 and me setting up camp -mom will join us later. I will have to do the entire locating, leveling, and setup with just the "help" from the 4YO. I may be cursing (silently of course) that I didn't invest in a Ball-Leveler before this little exercise is over.
:yikes:
Quote from: campdaddyActually after re-reading my description of our leveling technique it reads a LOT more complicated than it really is.
I thought your technique was very simple. But some people make leveling into a major operation...
Austin
one of things we miss most about having our PUP is the BAL leveler. We have Lynx for the hybrid but we sure miss the ease of our BAL that hangs on a nail in our shed......... If only it worked on dual axles...... :( We've never been to a spot that was already "level"! We've had many where the BAL was almost at it's highest point!
Quote from: brainpauseJust don't use your stabilizers to level the camper.
Larry, member of the orange Lynx club
I use the BAL leveler but..... Wouldn't it be easier all around for the manufacturerers to design the frame and stabilizers so that they could be safely used for leveling.
The mechanism and frame are already there. How much would it really impact cost & weight to make this a standard feature? I bet in future years we will look back and laugh at the "old separate stabilizer & leveler design".
Quote from: pricerjWouldn't it be easier all around for the manufacturerers to design the frame and stabilizers so that they could be safely used for leveling.
The mechanism and frame are already there. How much would it really impact cost & weight to make this a standard feature? I bet in future years we will look back and laugh at the "old separate stabilizer & leveler design".
Nope. Really old trailers (more than about 20 years ago) often could be jacked by the stabilizers. They stopped that because 1) trailers are heavier - a lot heavier, and 2) competition is fierce, and every dime off the price counts.
Austin
BAL lover here.
CC
Quote from: vjm1639one of things we miss most about having our PUP is the BAL leveler. We have Lynx for the hybrid but we sure miss the ease of our BAL that hangs on a nail in our shed......... If only it worked on dual axles...... :( We've never been to a spot that was already "level"! We've had many where the BAL was almost at it's highest point!
Want to sell the Bal leveler thats just hanging on your wall?
Shoot me an email at BadAzzRed88GT@aol.com. Thanks-Dan
Well I know that I am new to this but when setting up the PUP in front of the house I noticed that all I had to do was raise one side about 1/2 inch. I had put laminate floor in my house about a year ago and had some scraps laying around. They are about 1/4 inch thick and I threw four of them in the PUP just for the heck of it. I ended up using two of them the first time I took the PUP out as I didn't have to raise it that much to get it level. Not the most professional looking things in the world but they worked. Yesterday I did make a ramp that goes up in one inch increments so I think I'm in good shape now.
We also use 1/2x6s, 1x6s and 2x6s to ramp up to the required height.
Pulling up on the board is quick and easy not to mention cheap. ;)
I must confess, after reading much about the Bal here and there,
I may have to ask Mrs. BuddyBear for a Bal for Christmas..:p
Along with a few other cool items for the PUP.
Happy Trails
BB
I certainly got a lot more responce to this than expected. Just got back from a great weekend and here is what I decided to use.
The wood worked out perfect for me. Total cost about $10.00 I bought a new 10 foot plank and had just enough to do what I wanted with it. I modified just slightly longest board is 40" cut back at 10" incriments. I also 45d the front lip for 2 reasons. I cut 1 extra piece of wood with a 45 at each end. It is 8" long and I place that on front of the level I plan to drive up on that gives me 18" of platforf to get the wheel up on. 4" of total lift.
I went this route because I do not expect to have to use this more that 2 times a year based on where we camp. Its simple - cheep - best of all it worked
Quote from: ronerjonesThe wood worked out perfect for me...
For a somewhat humorous account of my leveler not working very well this past weekend, read
here.
:p
We use wood. 2x6 and also have 1x5. I 45d one end and then screwed a 2x4 for a stop on the other end. Our pup has tandom axles, the 1x5 is the length of both tires but for the 2x6, we use 2 seperate boards. One is 45d and stop block and the other is 45d on both ends( to slip between the tires). That keeps down on size and weight.
Our camper is old and uses manual lift with stiff knee supports, not the crank up cable type. I use screw type jack stands and scissor jacks to get the final level.
BAL leveler. I've used the boards and the lynx levelers, to me the BAL is the ticket! :cool: