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General => General => Topic started by: kh48 on Oct 09, 2007, 03:58 AM

Title: coleman 10 foot set up
Post by: kh48 on Oct 09, 2007, 03:58 AM
I get mixed info for setting up pupup do you crank up trailer before setting jacks or do you set jacks and level before you crank up or does it make any difference thanks Ken
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Post by: dthurk on Oct 09, 2007, 04:38 AM
Level the camper, set the jacks, then pop up.

Level the camper first from side by side by placing boards or Lynx Levelers under the low side wheel.  Then leve front to back with the tongue jack.
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Post by: sewserious on Oct 09, 2007, 05:06 AM
First of all, you can go to //www.popupportal.com and find a copy of your owner's manual to download and print.

For a Coleman camper, DO NOT lower the stabilzer jacks until AFTER the roof is raised.  This is per the owner's manual.  This applies to all of their models be it Coleman, Coleman by Fleetwood, or Fleetwood.

Level the camper side to side, front to back, raise the top, then lower the stabilizers.  The owner's manual for your particular camper/brand of camper is always the best source, as these procedures vary from one manufacturer to the next.
Title: Starcraft says:
Post by: 'tiredTeacher on Oct 09, 2007, 08:41 AM
My Starcraft's manual says to level, pop up then stabilize.
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Post by: wavery on Oct 09, 2007, 09:44 AM
Quote from: kh48I get mixed info for setting up pupup do you crank up trailer before setting jacks or do you set jacks and level before you crank up or does it make any difference thanks Ken
The important part is to not have any binding angles in the 4 corners. Some manufacturers are concerned that IF a person puts down the stabilizers and puts to much tension on any one corner, it could cause binding in the corner lifts. If this happens, it puts additional stress on the cables, pulleys and all other moving parts in the lifting mechanism.

If you lift the roof before putting the stabilizers down, it allows a certain amount of movement in the 4 corner lifts. This should help lessen stresses on your moving parts.

If you put the stabilizers down first, it probably won't hurt anything. It just increases the chance of minor binding. However, if you put your stabilizers down and put tension on them, the chances of increased stress increases.
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Post by: CajunCamper on Oct 09, 2007, 01:05 PM
Quote from: dthurkLevel the camper, set the jacks, then pop up.

Level the camper first from side by side by placing boards or Lynx Levelers under the low side wheel.  Then leve front to back with the tongue jack.


Be careful with that dthurk, just as wavery said by setting the jacks before popping up can put stress on the lift system that can throw it out of whack.

CajunCamper
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Post by: AustinBoston on Oct 09, 2007, 02:09 PM
Most manufacturers would prefer the stabilizers up if the roof is being raised or lowered, so stabilizers down last when setting up and up first when taking down.

The way I got my wife to remember it was "The feet don't touch the ground when the roof is moving."

But as has been said, the owner's manual for your trailer is the best source.

Austin
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Post by: mountainrev on Oct 10, 2007, 10:17 AM
Agreed about not putting stabs down while cranking up roof.  However, some folks like to put the stabs down close to, but not touching, the ground to prevent the possibility of the pup tipping if someone should scramble up onto one of the bunkends immediately after the roof is raised (but before you've had a chance to properly deploy stabs).  Happens to the best of us, especially if you have kids.
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Post by: AustinBoston on Oct 10, 2007, 10:40 AM
That is something to keep in mind.  While our PUP is heavy enough that you probably would have to put three people on the rear bunk to get it to tip without the stabilizers, not all of them are like that, as some people have found out the hard way.

Austin
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Post by: sewserious on Oct 10, 2007, 10:49 AM
Quote from: mountainrevAgreed about not putting stabs down while cranking up roof.  However, some folks like to put the stabs down close to, but not touching, the ground to prevent the possibility of the pup tipping if someone should scramble up onto one of the bunkends immediately after the roof is raised (but before you've had a chance to properly deploy stabs).  Happens to the best of us, especially if you have kids.


I just keep the "travel" door locked until fully popped up and stabs are set.  Keeps out the grandkids until I am ready for them to get in.
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Post by: wernstriumph on Oct 10, 2007, 10:52 AM
If you look at the Fleetwood setup video on their website //www.fleetwoodcampingtrailers.com you'll see the woman puts down the stabilizers after the roof is raised then pulls out the bunks. My owner's manual states the same sequence.
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Post by: tlhdoc on Oct 10, 2007, 10:57 AM
Quote from: CajunCamperBe careful with that dthurk, just as wavery said by setting the jacks before popping up can put stress on the lift system that can throw it out of whack.
 
 CajunCamper
Don't worry.  dthurk doesn't have a PU anymore.:D
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Post by: dthurk on Oct 10, 2007, 11:33 AM
Quote from: tlhdocDon't worry.  dthurk doesn't have a PU anymore.:D
Has it been that long?

Procedure now (for me) is level side to side, chocks, unhitch, level front to back, stabs.  (Don't do this with a PUP!)

Guess I had it worng for PU's.  Sorry, and thanks to those who corrected me!
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Post by: flyfisherman on Oct 10, 2007, 12:03 PM
Quote from: wernstriumphIf you look at the Fleetwood setup video on their website //www.fleetwoodcampingtrailers.com you'll see the woman puts down the stabilizers after the roof is raised then pulls out the bunks. My owner's manual states the same sequence.


My previous PU was a '96 Coleman/Fleetwood  (Colewood?), which was a 10' box with the front storage compartment. Never, ever was there a PU more out of swack ... it would sway going down the road like there was no tomorrow, EMPTY. The thing was just not balanced correctly and to find that out, after raising the roof if you neglected to drop the stabilizers and went inside to connect the bunk end support bars and stepped anywhere near the back of the PU, it would drop on it's back bunk with the tongue sticking up in the air! Of course, when you moved forward it would come crashing down onto the front dolly wheel. Most embarrassing in a C/G with others watching!. But it did teach one to ALWAYS drop the stabilizers right after the roof was raised!



Fly
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Post by: wavery on Oct 10, 2007, 12:37 PM
Quote from: flyfishermanMy previous PU was a '96 Coleman/Fleetwood  (Colewood?), which was a 10' box with the front storage compartment. Never, ever was there a PU more out of swack ... it would sway going down the road like there was no tomorrow, EMPTY. The thing was just not balanced correctly and to find that out, after raising the roof if you neglected to drop the stabilizers and went inside to connect the bunk end support bars and stepped anywhere near the back of the PU, it would drop on it's back bunk with the tongue sticking up in the air! Of course, when you moved forward it would come crashing down onto the front dolly wheel. Most embarrassing in a C/G with others watching!. But it did teach one to ALWAYS drop the stabilizers right after the roof was raised!



Fly
That would've made a great YouTube video. :J