Can someone explain to me how this works.
At the cold water intake of the water heater there is a check valve that looks a lot like the city water connection check valve. Attached to this check valve is the plumbing that provides the cold water to the water heater. Spliced into this plumbing is a valve with a drain hose attached to it. When this valve is turned the water heater will (should) drain.
This is the part that I don't get. How does the water from the water heater flow back through the check valve to drain?
See sketch here. Sketch (http://www.gallery.pstartech.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=59912)
Thank you.
Done Working,
The cold water line that runs down through the floor with a valve on it is for draining the cold (blue) water line, on our pup there is also a hot (red) drain valve for draining that line too.
If you want to drain the water heater you will need to remove the plug on the heater. It should be in the outside access compartment for the water heater, ours takes a 1 1/16 socket. this plug also has the anode rod built into it. Remove the plug and open the pressure relief valve and the water will flow much faster. It is a lot of water so be readyl (6 gal) .This is a good time to check the anode rod and replace it if it is worn, they are not expensive. once the tank is empty you may want to flush it out, stick your finger in the hole and feel around the bottom, that gunky stuff is from the anode deteriorating. You can buy a little spray arm that will fit in the drain hole and will make getting all that stuff out a lot easier. Also if you raise the pup up on the opposite side of the heater it will help with getting the gunk out while it is being flushed.
If you are winterizing you will want to add a bypass kit to keep the pink stuff out of the water heater.(very bad)
Hope this helps.
BB
By the way... Love the drawing :D
Quote from: BuddyBear....to keep the pink stuff out of the water heater.(very bad)
I've never heard this before. Can you explain???
Thanks,
-Speak
Speak, now that I read back over my post I think you are right. "(very bad)" is a little harsh. I should have said that the antifreeze will corrod your anode rode very rapidly and leave heavy sediment deposits on the bottom of the water heater, the anode rode could be removed and replaced with a 3/4 in drain plug (on mine) before filling with antifreeze. Then again that would be an extra 6 gallons of pink stuff to filll the water heater.$$$$$$
Bypass kit.$$ :D
BB
Two things.
1. I don't think all water heaters have anode rods, do they? I don't think I have one.
2. The reason to use anti-freeze is to displace water that would be in a constricted spot. You need to prevent the expansion of water (ice) in a spot like a pump. In the hot water tank you can have a small amount of anti-freeze and a lot of empty space. There's no need to fill it with six gallons of anti-freeze.
Correct me if I'm wrong.
-Speak
BuddyBear you are right.
Thank you not many appreciate good art.
Speak mine does have a anode rod. You are right about your freezing theory.
Quote from: SpeakEasy1. I don't think all water heaters have anode rods, do they? I don't think I have one.
I believe Atwood water heaters have a non-conductive coating on the inside of the hot water heater so it does not need a sacrificial anode.
Quote2. The reason to use anti-freeze is to displace water that would be in a constricted spot. You need to prevent the expansion of water (ice) in a spot like a pump. In the hot water tank you can have a small amount of anti-freeze and a lot of empty space. There's no need to fill it with six gallons of anti-freeze.
Correct me if I'm wrong.
Sounds right to me, ecept you don't need any anti-freeze in a water heater at all, because if the heater is drained, the small amount if ice that might form will be less constricted than an ice cube tray.
Austin