PopUp Times

We are new to the pop up world.  We have 5 kids and looking to take along a few bike, not 5.  Probably 2-3.  Looking for ideas from any one willing to offer advice.

Thinking of ball hitch that has a second receiver above it to hold a hitch mount bike rack. Only problem is my truck has a lift on it and i can not use the only ball hitch I have found.  
Is it possible to weld onto my drop hitch this addition to accept that style bike rack? Is that even a wise choice?
Is it better to put a receiver hitch on back of trailer to hold this stlye?
Is there a better style hitch to mount to back of trailer?
I have seen a few different racks for the top of the popup, but how sturdy are our popups? We have a 2004 Fleetwood Sedona.

Any help greatly appreciated, my 4 year old wants her bike.  Thank you

I too have been wrestling with this issue. My two small kids also would like to have their bikes, (and us big kids to keep up with them).

There are many options.  Probably a combination of rack types will work for us.  I was going to use the integral Yakima rails that came with my PopUp, using Yakima  Control towers and #1 Landing Pads.  And, I'm also going to install compatible Yakima #3 Landing Pads onto my SUV.  Then I can use the same crossbars and bike racks on both my PopUp and TV.

The roof of your PopUp can support a strap-on rack and four bikes.  Camping World (http://www.campingworld.com/browse/skus/index.cfm?skunum=25311&src=SRQB) sells a strap on rack.  TopLine Mfg. (http://www.toplinemfg.com/html/bk-trailerbikerack.html) sells a rack for two bikes that bolts to the frame at the rear of your PopUp.  Fleetwood sells a bolt-in rack that would require some drilling to your roof.

Then, there is the logical issue of what to do if you want to take your bikes with you once you are set up at camp?  If you use racks on top of the TV then you have more flexibility, (but probably more wind resistance and lower fuel mileage).

If your TV can support all the tongue weight without sagging, and the bikes don't interfere with the trailer when turning, you might be able to weld your adapter.

Here's another option Pro Rak (http://puxtradi.web.aplus.net/product_info.php?cPath=53&products_id=297&osCsid=861cae1f860ed63c786ea55af4406e7b) a bit pricey, but I have seen where others have copied this design and made there own. I myself went with having my dealer install the roof bolt-on rack. I wanted to make sure if there was any leak problems, the dealer was on the hook to make it right. Have been very happy with the rack on my PU.

good luck  :D

I've had the TopLine bike rack for the rear of my little Starcraft now for about 6 years. In reality, after all is said and done, it turned out to be quite expensive for carrying only two bikes. As I've stated here before you have to be careful about hanging anything off the rear of the PU. You upset the balance of the PU and you'll have a real adventure in just trying to tool down the pike! The weight on the rear has to be counter balanced up front. Now I do that quite easily with my PU - and it had some good road manners to begin with. However, I would never have tried that with my previous popup because it was a bear for towing ... out of swack when it was empty! What I saying here is that some popups are better for suited for a rear bike rack than others.

In retrospect, having a receiver mounted on the front of my then TV would have cost considerably less ... like almost half. Have you considered a front mounting bike rack?



Fly

Quote from: flyfishermanI've had the TopLine bike rack for the rear of my little Starcraft now for about 6 years. In reality, after all is said and done, it turned out to be quite expensive for carrying only two bikes. As I've stated here before you have to be careful about hanging anything off the rear of the PU. You upset the balance of the PU and you'll have a real adventure in just trying to tool down the pike! The weight on the rear has to be counter balanced up front. Now I do that quite easily with my PU - and it had some good road manners to begin with. However, I would never have tried that with my previous popup because it was a bear for towing ... out of swack when it was empty! What I saying here is that some popups are better for suited for a rear bike rack than others.

In retrospect, having a receiver mounted on the front of my then TV would have cost considerably less ... like almost half. Have you considered a front mounting bike rack?



Fly

I have not thought fo that yet. I have seen some. I have a brushguard on the front and not sure how I would do that.  I am open for suggestions from anyone.

I have seen some ball hitches with a tab and a small ball to the side.  What is that for? Is there a mount that may fit on that. I am pretty handy with wood, wish I had more experience with metal and welding.

I have found a few bike racks I like, but trying to be somewhat cost effective.

Quote from: rebe918I have seen some ball hitches with a tab and a small ball to the side.  What is that for?

Probably that would be for the anti-sway bar.


But, let me get back to your orginal problem ... you say something like this cannot be used?

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_492929_492929



Fly

A friend of mine had a receiver hitch installed on the front of his Chevy pickup and he uses a bike rake for two bikes in it. It is a 2" receiver type hitch so when he gets to the campground he takes the bike rack off and if the site is a little more difficult to get into he moves his drawbar to the front and pushes the camper into the site so he can better see what is going on. You could get a bike rack for 4 bikes to use in the front mount receiver I would think since they are available for the rear hitch. If you know someone that could do a little welding work for you the bike rack could be made a little longer to clear your brush guard I would think.
When I bought my 95 Coleman popup it had a 2" receiver on the back end that is welded to the frame. From what I have heard it was a Fleetwood option at one time. I made a bike rack for 4 bikes to use in it and it has worked out okay for me but I also installed a sway bar on the camper just in case. Now that the kids are grown I usually only have 2 bikes on the rack anyhow.

We have the Yakima crossbars on top of the popup and have 4 bike sleds.   We also have a Yakima wire basket in between the sleds to hold misc. stuff like the outdoor rug and EZ up when necessary.  Works real well.  
 
Jacqui

Quote from: rebe918I have not thought fo that yet. I have seen some. I have a brushguard on the front and not sure how I would do that.  I am open for suggestions from anyone.

I have seen some ball hitches with a tab and a small ball to the side.  What is that for? Is there a mount that may fit on that. I am pretty handy with wood, wish I had more experience with metal and welding.

I have found a few bike racks I like, but trying to be somewhat cost effective.

 I installed a front hitch on our F150 supercrew for my cooler rack and surf rods but it has a 500lb. tounge rating wich is more than enough to hold 4 or 5 bikes, also the hitch for my truck bolted to the sides of the frame so you could probably still use your brush guard, your local truck outfitter store could tell you for sure.
I've been thinking of fabricating a rack that will attach to the frame on either side of my propane bottle and have two hitch pins for removal when open, basically like a reciever hitch tube welded to the frame on each side and a rack that plugs into the tubes and straddles the propane tank , it would be all 2" square tube and hold whatever I put on it. just have to find the time to do it

the tab and small ball are for sway controls.

Something like this?

(http://inlinethumb25.webshots.com/30040/2473341450100639314S500x500Q85.jpg) (http://entertainment.webshots.com/photo/2473341450100639314GQqrnE)

this is the bike / canoe rack I was working on before the snow and some broken frame welds stopped me last fall.  

The 2X4 cross bar can be raised or lowered to any height and was designed to actually help support the beds.  Or, it can be lowered two notches and completely  clear the beds without touching them at all.
 
Click on the photo to go to my album of the project for drawings and more details. My PUP is 35 yrs old, and I didn't think the roof could take ANY weight, but I do want to take along my adult trike and possibly another full size bike or two.

A friend welded the stock 2" square tubing onto the frame and 1 3/4" tubing slides into it perfectly to adjust the height.  I originally planned to bolt the rear ones to the bumper, when I discovered that one of the 35 yr old frame pieces supporting the bumper was broken clean through, and the other was about halfway gone.  So my neighbor welded the breaks and added some angle stock for re-enforcement.

The frame as shown will carry two 18' canoes above the roof without touching it or putting any weight on the roof, and I have plans to adapt a 4 place standing bike rack that I picked up at Sam's Club for $24 ( yes, TWENTYFOUR BUCKS) to carry bikes sometimes.
(http://inlinethumb47.webshots.com/42606/2897565710100639314S425x425Q85.jpg) (http://entertainment.webshots.com/photo/2897565710100639314lNxiys)

Quote from: flyfishermanProbably that would be for the anti-sway bar.


But, let me get back to your orginal problem ... you say something like this cannot be used?

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_492929_492929



Fly

This is the same type of hitch I found. My probablem is that I need a 7 inch drop from truck to trailer. I have not seen a receiver for that. I'm thinking if someone could not weld that add on to my current ball hitch. Any structual suggestions?

rccs- if I may ask what doe sthe sway bar look like you added to your trailer? Does it go on the tongue at the hitch or somewhere on the axle. Just wondering, like I said I am new to the trailer world. I was thnking of putting the hitch on back to the frame of the trailer, but I have read so much positive and negative, I am unsure what to believe and don't want to mess up my first trailer.

oc campers- you said you use a rack on the roof.  Do the bolts go all the way through the roof? Any problem with leaking? Any chance of hitting head on bolts inside? I did find a thread of someone putting rack on top, it looks good, but the bolts stuck inside 1-2 inches. I'm pretty short, but I don't want my kids to do some type of flying wrestling move and hit somethng like that.

Badabing 67- I like the idea of maybe finding something to go to the frame, but I do not want the rack on the front of the truck all the time.  A thought, tell me what you think.  At the base of the brush guard where the solid steel bolts to the frame there are tow holes. What about building something that would bolt from one hole to the other, and place the receiver pipe along cross bar so I could put a receiver bike rack in front. I could put some type of a brace from rack to a cross bar on the brush guard.  Does any of the make sense?  Structural concerns?

Scouter mom- I like your idea of going up and over propane tanks. I was actually thing of getting someone to weld a longer rack in front because I can only carry 1 tank right now. It may be a good idea to add something like that at same time. My question is do your bikes still rest on roof of camper and rest on the wood, or are you making a brace to go along the entire roof?

Great suggestions and ideas from everyone thank you very much. You have helped me spark a few ideas of my own. If I get this going I will keep everyone informed.   Keep the suggestions coming. We are heading out April 18 so I'm trying to find something before then.

Quote from: flyfishermanProbably that would be for the anti-sway bar.
 
 
But, let me get back to your orginal problem ... you say something like this cannot be used?
 
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_492929_492929
 
 
 
Fly

I wouldn't use it. It can't be used with WDH as it's not even mentioned and I surely wouldn't unless it's directly stated to be compatible.
 
Otherwise using with a weight bearing hitch will add some serious negatives. For light trailers with ultra low tongue weight, it may be a benefit. However with a heavier PUPs tongue weight, adding that additional 1' of length, then the weight of the bikes and the rack, your vehicle's bumper will be scraping the pavement.
 
Doesn't look like a good idea unless you have a heavy duty suspension or load leveling suspension/air bags.
 
Have a good one.

Quote from:
oc campers- you said you use a rack on the roof. Do the bolts go all the way through the roof? Any problem with leaking? Any chance of hitting head on bolts inside? I did find a thread of someone putting rack on top, it looks good, but the bolts stuck inside 1-2 inches. I'm pretty short, but I don't want my kids to do some type of flying wrestling move and hit somethng like that.
 
[/QUOTEThe Yakima cross bars can be purchased at your Fleetwood dealer.  Our dealer also installed the bars.  Yes there are screws inside but I sincerely doubt anyone would catch themselves on them.  The only way the kids would hit them is if they are trapeze artists.  No problem with leaking.  What I like about the setup is the bars and sleds are always on the roof.  
 
Jacqui

Badabing 67- I like the idea of maybe finding something to go to the frame, but I do not want the rack on the front of the truck all the time.  A thought, tell me what you think.  At the base of the brush guard where the solid steel bolts to the frame there are tow holes. What about building something that would bolt from one hole to the other, and place the receiver pipe along cross bar so I could put a receiver bike rack in front. I could put some type of a brace from rack to a cross bar on the brush guard.  Does any of the make sense?  Structural concerns?

just a note, when you look at our truck all you see is the reciever hitch, no rack or anything just the hitch tube, just like on the back of the truck.

Quote from: Mike UpI wouldn't use it. It can't be used with WDH as it's not even mentioned and I surely wouldn't unless it's directly stated to be compatible.
 
Otherwise using with a weight bearing hitch will add some serious negatives. For light trailers with ultra low tongue weight, it may be a benefit. However with a heavier PUPs tongue weight, adding that additional 1' of length, then the weight of the bikes and the rack, your vehicle's bumper will be scraping the pavement.
 
Doesn't look like a good idea unless you have a heavy duty suspension or load leveling suspension/air bags.
 
Have a good one.

I did'nt know we were even discussing a WDH ...

But I doubt seriously if a load bearing hitch with a proper set-up (including the TV), that it would make that much difference.

Quote from: flyfishermanI did'nt know we were even discussing a WDH ...
 
But I doubt seriously if a load bearing hitch with a proper set-up (including the TV), that it would make that much difference.

With PUP tongue weights going from 300 lbs to 400 lbs, they're already straining the suspension of most vehicles with sag. You push that weight out even further with a 1' extention, it will pull down even harder. Then add the additional weight of the extention, a bike rack, and then the bikes. It's very likely that you could be at or exceeding the class III/IV weight bearing hitch rating of 500 lbs.
 
Even if you had a vehicle with a suspension that could handle all that without pointing the headlights up in the air, you would still be close or exceeding the weight bearing hitch rating. To go over 500 lbs or to keep excessive sag from happening, you'd need to use a weight distribution hitch.
 
Have a good one.

Quote from: Mike UpWith PUP tongue weights going from 300 lbs to 400 lbs, they're already straining the suspension of most vehicles with sag. You push that weight out even further with a 1' extention, it will pull down even harder. Then add the additional weight of the extention, a bike rack, and then the bikes. It's very likely that you could be at or exceeding the class III/IV weight bearing hitch rating of 500 lbs.
 
Even if you had a vehicle with a suspension that could handle all that without pointing the headlights up in the air, you would still be close or exceeding the weight bearing hitch rating. To go over 500 lbs or to keep excessive sag from happening, you'd need to use a weight distribution hitch.
 
Have a good one.

First off, the extension very clearly states it has a towing capacity of 4,000 lbs. Rather it could be used with a WDH is quite another issue and would certainly have to be looked into. But for a load bearing hitch (class III for example), would fit into this hitch range. Obviously, a TV's towing capacity, rear suspension and such would all be considerations as to whether weight could be added. But assuming all was within the TV capacity, I doubt very seriously rather the additional 1" would hardly make a difference.




Fly

My Taos has a 2" receiver welded to the bumper and frame, offset from the crank. I have a hitch'n haul with a bike rack attachment that I use. It tows fine and is very solid. Not sure if it came from the dealer like that as I'm the 3rd owner.

(http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s274/79inline/camprack01.jpg)

Quote from: BowfinMy Taos has a 2" receiver welded to the bumper and frame, offset from the crank. I have a hitch'n haul with a bike rack attachment that I use. It tows fine and is very solid. Not sure if it came from the dealer like that as I'm the 3rd owner.

I can assure you that it didn't come from the dealer that way, unless it was an unwise dealer.

That's a lot of stress on the Taos frame.

Larry

Quote from: brainpauseThat's a lot of stress on the Taos frame.

Larry

How do you figure that, might I ask ...?

I've had something simular for the past six years plus and the frame on my PU is like it was from the get go. And "we", the camper, the bikes and us'uns, have gone down many, many miles together. I think a false rumor got started somewhere that popup camper frames were/are so fragile, and I've just never seen that substantiated.


Fly

Quote from: brainpauseI can assure you that it didn't come from the dealer that way, unless it was an unwise dealer.

That's a lot of stress on the Taos frame.

Larry

I was cautious about it when I first saw it. I am very careful and inspected and tested mine before I loaded bikes and went anywhere. the hitch paint and welds are just as faded as the bumper paint, so it's been on there a long time. There's no more than 200 lbs on the hitch, there's no wiggle in the bumper or frame fully loaded.  I can stand on the hitch'n haul and bounce with no flex and I weight 275lbs, not that I'd ever put that much on the hitch and haul, but if it was going to flex or bend, it would have bent then. I added it to my pre-trip inspection checklist.

Fully loaded with 3 bikes your looking 125 lbs for the bikes plus 40 for the hitch'n haul, so a total of 165 lbs +/- .

Quote from: BowfinFully loaded with 3 bikes your looking 125 lbs for the bikes plus 40 for the hitch'n haul, so a total of 165 lbs +/- .

This was almost exactly what I had in mind. I'm glad to hear a couple of fellow campers have similar set ups.  Is your received welded just to the bumper and the frame rails connected to bumper, or does it go further under for support.  I was even thinking to the hitch'n haul, and that looks to work pretty good.

We are only looking to haul 2 adult bikes and 1 childs bike.  How big is your Taos? Are most of the frames designed the same on the trailers? We have a Sedona, which is probably a smaller trailer, but will it still work?

The Taos is the smallest pop-up Coleman/Fleetwood makes.

The 2" hitch tube is welded directly to the frame rail and bumper, making one solid piece.  The welds are made on the vertical portion of the rails giving it the most strength. A single bumper  or a single frame rail is not very strong by itself and will flex some, but when they are joined and welded by the hitch tube, they are very solid. I'll try to get some better pics when it's not raining out.

You can see the main welds here (one is obscured by glare)

(http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s274/79inline/rack04.jpg)