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General => General => Topic started by: cndlzrus on Jun 13, 2008, 02:00 PM

Title: leveling on uneven ground
Post by: cndlzrus on Jun 13, 2008, 02:00 PM
what do you use to level  your pup with?  We camped a couple of weekends ago and ended up sleeping on a decline... we just couldn't get the pup level.... I would like an easy way that not too expensive and easy to carry...

we were on a sand area, and instead of having the  pup set up (to back in) we turned it sideways with the door towards the inner circle, because we were with a group of 12.. Great  way to camp, could keep an eye on the kids at night....
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Post by: Recumbentman on Jun 13, 2008, 02:18 PM
simple 2x4's boards will work. But if you want to be able to level your PU after un-hooking from your TV you will need a Bal Leveler (http://www.amazon.com/BAL%C2%AE-Light-Trailer-Tire-Leveler/dp/B000BH5MAA/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1?ie=UTF8&s=sporting-goods&qid=1213387988&sr=8-1)  I myself use the Leveling Blocks (http://www.campingworld.com/browse/products/index.cfm?prodID=4155&src=SRQB)  for leveling, but I don't spin my PU side ways.
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Post by: Shepherd on Jun 13, 2008, 02:21 PM
I started with the lynx levelers and then moved to the  bal leveler (http://www.rvpartscenter.com/ProductDetail.asp?PID=18058&SID=15&DID=45&CID=167).  Some might think it pricey, but for $53 bucks, it takes seconds to crank it up and make the pup level.  The lynx didn't cost us anything, they came with the trailer, so I didn't feel guilty replacing them.  I still use them for the supports when it is soft soil or sand.

edit: cross posted with recumbentman, sorry for the redundancy.
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Post by: flyfisherman on Jun 13, 2008, 02:26 PM
When it comes to leveling a popup, obviously side to side is the important one, you can get about as elaborate as you want to get for levelers ... just costs money!

Me ...?  I go the el cheapo route ... from a house construction site in my neighborhood I confiscated a couple pieces of 2"X6" and a couple of 1"X6", cut them to about 12" in length, and they are my leveling devices. The cost was zero.  Also have one of those G.I. entrenching tools that I always carry in the truck, and between all of that mess I keep my little Starcraft pretty well leveled.

When I back into a site (I suppose someplace along the line I have pulled in frontways, where I had one big half moon driveway), the first order of business is to get level side to side. Have a short carpenter's level that I keep in the PU at all times (just inside the outside access door), I grab that and see where I'm at side to side. Have never (to date anyway) found a spot where I can't get leveled with what I've already described. ~ After getting the PU where I want it, plus leveled side to side ... chock the wheels, unhitch, get the camper somewhere near level fore & aft ... popup the top and then put the finishing touches to the fore and aft leveling. Then drop the stabilizers ... look for my fly rod and let someone else worry about all the other "little" details.




Fly
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Post by: ForestCreature on Jun 13, 2008, 03:03 PM
Another BAL user here. It's the way to go for me..it takes all the guessing out of leveling. Making it  easy to level when I do go out alone.
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Post by: cyclone on Jun 13, 2008, 07:34 PM
I'm in the Bal crowd, too.  We used Lynx at first and still carry them "just in case" we get another site like one we had a few summers ago in Ohio where the hitch was two inches from the ground and we had Lynx under the stabilizers on the other end.  We have also used them to level the camp kitchen a time or two.
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Post by: BuddyBear on Jun 13, 2008, 11:47 PM
(http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z105/BuddyBearPics/Highlander/Camping%20Pics/11b88303.jpg)

GOT WOOD???
I cut 3/4x12 and 1/4x12.
Each one is 2 1/2 longer than the one that goes on top.
I mix and match them to get just the right height up to 8 inches.
Each one has a hole drilled in the end so I can slide a steak through them to keep them from slideing while pulling on to them.
They are a little bulky but as others have mentioned the price was $00.00.
Someday I'll break down and invest in a Bal.
BB
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Post by: harleywolf on Jun 14, 2008, 12:04 AM
We just got our BAL Leveler. I used it one trip and it worked great. Our next trip the ground was so unlevel that I had to put the Pup up on wood blocks and put the tongue on the ground just to get level. Even with the tongue straight on the ground we couldn
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Post by: mike4947 on Jun 14, 2008, 01:58 AM
On very uneven sites I no longer raise the drawbridge, I lower the river. An entrenching tool and a couple of shovels full of dirt from the high side (that can easily be replaced when leaving) keeps me from one of those balancing acts where you need to pole vault to get on the trailer step.
Folks that mention the BAL must not have camped on very uneven ground as even the best fit on a tire gives you only about 4-5 inches of lift.
Which was also my limit on wood blocks before digging.
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Post by: sacrawf on Jun 14, 2008, 12:26 PM
Lynx leveler blocks.  Lighter than wood, easy to wash off mud, take less space and cost less than a BAL, Versatile (use under tire, rear stabiliers, or under tounge jack wheel). Won't rust, warp, rot, or retain moisture. Relatively cheap.  Will still work for you if you trade for a larger dual axle camper or pickup camper.
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Post by: spicyville1 on Jun 14, 2008, 04:08 PM
I use the lynx levelers because my pup is the Jayco 1406 dual axle camper. They work great as I used to use wood blocks but with the pup being 2 axles, the Lynx works great and are an easy set up as well
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Post by: miss kathy on Jun 15, 2008, 06:00 PM
Quote from: sacrawfLynx leveler blocks.  Lighter than wood, easy to wash off mud, take less space and cost less than a BAL, Versatile (use under tire, rear stabiliers, or under tounge jack wheel). Won't rust, warp, rot, or retain moisture. Relatively cheap.  Will still work for you if you trade for a larger dual axle camper or pickup camper.


I got a Bal a couple of weeks, thinking what a great idea, heavy, awkward, have to find some place close to the back of the truck so it was off first and spent almost 1/2 hour and could not get it to work, took out the pieces of wood and level in 5 minutes

 So going to return it next week and stick to the old fashion way and the cheap way

kathy
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Post by: austinado16 on Jun 15, 2008, 10:25 PM
BAL user (with 12" tires even!) and love it.  I keep it in it's original box, right in the doorway to the camper.  First thing out, last thing in.  Super easy to use.......slide under the tire, set the end of the threaded post into the metal cup and then begin "tightening" the threaded post with the ratchet that came with it.  In about a minute, the camper is level side-to-side.

I've used it on some very uneven ground and did have to dig out up front, and put some 2x6 hunks under the rear stabs to firm up the final position of being level.

Best $53 I've spent.
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Post by: bonscott on Jun 16, 2008, 08:30 AM
Yea, can't get any easier then the BAL.  I store it right inside the camper door.  First thing out along with the high side chock.  I got the BAL storage bag at PUX (by Popup Gizmos) and make storage and moving easy.  Basically it's just a big pizza bag.   :D

Setting up can't be any easier.  Place under tire and crank it up.  Takes 5 seconds with my drill that I use to raise the roof.   :-()  Maybe 30 seconds with the wrench.  Don't know how it would take a half hour.  But when I first got it I had to figure out how to use it the first time and tried it out a couple times in my driveway before my first trip.  Took me a few minutes to figure it out but after that it's just a few seconds.

Anyway, BAL is the way to go.  :)
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Post by: miss kathy on Jun 16, 2008, 09:51 AM
Quote from: bonscottYea, can't get any easier then the BAL.  I store it right inside the camper door.  First thing out along with the high side chock.  I got the BAL storage bag at PUX (by Popup Gizmos) and make storage and moving easy.  Basically it's just a big pizza bag.   :D

Setting up can't be any easier.  Place under tire and crank it up.  Takes 5 seconds with my drill that I use to raise the roof.   :-()  Maybe 30 seconds with the wrench.  Don't know how it would take a half hour.  But when I first got it I had to figure out how to use it the first time and tried it out a couple times in my driveway before my first trip.  Took me a few minutes to figure it out but after that it's just a few seconds.

Anyway, BAL is the way to go.  :)


Maybe I should of done that first - do it in the driveway- I will give it one more shoot before returning- and if I can get it too work- maybe I will be come a believer.
kj
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Post by: He Ruide on Jun 16, 2008, 10:05 AM
Kathy,  If you haven't done so already you might want to watch this BAL leveler video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GuxdJyMU2RY).

Hope this helps.

Ruide
Title: video
Post by: miss kathy on Jun 16, 2008, 10:48 AM
Maybe I should of watched this first- I am going to give it another shot

thanks
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Post by: bonscott on Jun 16, 2008, 11:59 AM
Thanks to Ruide for posting the video, I was just about to do that.

Kathy, it is really easy once you know how to do it.  It may look complicated at first but once you know what your doing you'll be all set and do a couple test lifts in the driveway.  Good luck!
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Post by: coach on Jun 16, 2008, 05:07 PM
If you had no trouble moving the PUP, chocking one wheel will allow you to move the PUP onto boards to level. As previously reported, scarps are either free or inexpensive and don't require maintenance or grease.
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Post by: He Ruide on Jun 16, 2008, 07:43 PM
Scott and Kathy,  You are welcome.

Take care.

Ruide
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Post by: bonscott on Jun 16, 2008, 08:55 PM
And even with a BAL you should still carry some wood with you just in case.  If you happen to be on a real unlevel site you may need to get up on some boards first and then use the BAL.  Or if you are on sandy or soft ground.  There is one campground we go each year that while grassy is quite soft.  I simply put one board under each wheel to give a stable place for the tires to be.  Then I use the BAL as normal.
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Post by: magnmike on Jun 19, 2008, 03:45 PM
Anybody had their BAL break?  This weekend the top of the screw mechanism broke free and spins without turning the actual screw shaft.  Not sure why/how it broke.  Had to use vice grips on the threaded part to get it the rest of the way down.  Guess I'll be going to wood or Lynx levelers.
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Post by: ForestCreature on Jun 19, 2008, 05:38 PM
This has happened to some in the past. Contact them, and they will replace the screw.


                 
                 BAL R.V. Products Group
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                     Kathy Dewitt ("kdewitt@norcoind.com")
                 
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                     Engineering: Jason Collins ("jcollins@norcoind.com")
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Post by: wavery on Jun 19, 2008, 05:44 PM
It happened to me. I called the Manuf and they sent me a new one free of charge.

The new on is all one piece. The one that you have is an appalling design.

Check out this thread:
http://www.arveeclub.com/showthread.php?t=57893&highlight=bal+screw+design
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Post by: fallsrider on Jun 19, 2008, 07:05 PM
Quote from: waveryIt happened to me. I called the Manuf and they sent me a new one free of charge.

The new on is all one piece. The one that you have is an appalling design.
Isn't it great when a company stands behind their product? I've never owned a BAL, but all products have the potential for failure, but not all companies step up and take care of their customer like you experienced.
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Post by: wavery on Jun 19, 2008, 07:39 PM
Quote from: fallsriderIsn't it great when a company stands behind their product? I've never owned a BAL, but all products have the potential for failure, but not all companies step up and take care of their customer like you experienced.
You are absolutely right. However, I think that they are truly ashamed of the design of that screw. You'd have to see it to believe how lame it is. They are just fortunate if no one has gotten injured because of it.

It is the easiest thing in the world to cast a one piece rod with a hex head, then turn threads on it. Instead, they cast a rod with a round nub on top then threaded it, drilled a hole for a 1/8" drift pin (that could not stand the load). Then they cast a separate cast aluminum hex head that had to be drilled to fit the top of the rod, assembled to the threaded rod and the pin inserted. It was such a stupid design that it defies all logic  :eyecrazy: .

That's why they so happily took care of the stupid thing....... :swear:

Now......you really want to know how I feel about the Bal Leveler?  :D
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Post by: magnmike on Jun 19, 2008, 08:24 PM
Thanks Waverly!
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Post by: magnmike on Jun 19, 2008, 08:26 PM
Ooops.  I meant Wavery and everyone else who responded!  I'll call them tomorrow.
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Post by: fallsrider on Jun 20, 2008, 02:49 AM
Wavery, was that a temporary design? Have they changed it?
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Post by: bonscott on Jun 20, 2008, 08:46 AM
Be sure to keep the screw clean of debris and lubed with grease.  Very important.
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Post by: garym053 on Jun 20, 2008, 08:49 PM
Started out with Boards,worked pretty good,  bought a BAL, didn't like it at all, bought Lynx blocks, Like them A LOT. BAL sits in storage in our horse barn.
Title: Gotta love the Lynx
Post by: scottab96 on Jun 25, 2008, 10:01 AM
Love the Lynx Levelrs that we bought.  Also bought the chock that goes with it.  Simple as figuring out which side needs to come up, backing up a little, set the lynx up and then pull forward until the camper stops - violla - level camper..... Couldn't be simpler, very sturdy, portable, have multiple uses (under the sand pads as well as the tounge jack) and they are hard to miss - as bright as they are :-)
Title: Lynx
Post by: JohnandLeann on Jun 25, 2008, 08:07 PM
I like the Lynx so far.  I have even used them to level the picnic table at campsite so my pans don't slide off of the stove when cooking.