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Well, we opened up our camper to make sure it survived the winter... the answer is barely.  It's soaked - the ceiling panels are spongy on one end.  We bought the camper used 2 years ago and it looks like the previous owner had patched small holes or cracks in the roof and those patches aren't holding anymore.  Luckily there's no mold thank goodness!  But what do I repatch the roof with? Hopefully something I can pick up at the local hardware store... more rain coming tomorrow!  We have heaters in the camper right now to dry it out and I think I'll purchase a cover since it's kept outside...  but for now - what should my hubby patch it with?

Thanks!
Des

Quote from: Rauch0812;215953Well, we opened up our camper to make sure it survived the winter... the answer is barely.  It's soaked - the ceiling panels are spongy on one end.  We bought the camper used 2 years ago and it looks like the previous owner had patched small holes or cracks in the roof and those patches aren't holding anymore.  Luckily there's no mold thank goodness!  But what do I repatch the roof with? Hopefully something I can pick up at the local hardware store... more rain coming tomorrow!  We have heaters in the camper right now to dry it out and I think I'll purchase a cover since it's kept outside...  but for now - what should my hubby patch it with?

Thanks!
Des

What year, make and model is your camper?

We need to know what kind of roof it is. These roofs are made of several different materials and it is important to treat your roof with the proper method for it's construction.

2000 Coachman Camper - I have no idea what the roof is, but I know it's not ABS.  If I had to guess I'd say fiberglass...

Quote from: Rauch0812;2159552000 Coachman Camper - I have no idea what the roof is, but I know it's not ABS.  If I had to guess I'd say fiberglass...

I doubt that it's F/G but someone will come on and let you know.

Chances are, it just needs the old caulking removed and new caulking put in. It is extremely important to let it dry out thoroughly before caulking but you seem to know that.

The other thing that you should check it the seal on the edge of the roof that sits on the top of the camper box when closed. It needs to seat well when closed and should not have any chips, tears, gouges or gaps.

It would be helpful to post pics so that we better know what the issue might be.

Sorry to hear you are having problems with your camper.  I would recommend Eternabond to re-patch the holes and to seal the seams.  It is a super sticky tape that once put down you can't take it off.  If the wood in the roof is bad, it will need to be replaced at some point.  If you get it dried out and it firms up you should be ok for a while. Good luck with the fix.:)

Here is a link to Eternabond  http://www.eternabond.com/

I just ordered a 50' roll... figured that outta do it.. thanks.

Quote from: Rauch0812;215960I just ordered a 50' roll... figured that outta do it.. thanks.

From what I've seen, that stuff is sorta hard to get straight. Remember, once you put it down, you'd better have it where you want it.

If you're careful, you can make a real nice job of that stuff. I have also seen people make a real mess with it.

I think if I were doing a center crown, I would do it in halves. I think that I would start in the middle and work out to one end. Then start back in the middle and work toward the other end. It's very hard to get it straight and keep the wrinkles out when you do it all in one piece. You could caulk the center, then put a separate 8" piece as a "Crown" or just overlap the 2nd piece. No matter what, I'd snap a chalkline on both sides of where you want it to lie, as a guide to keep it straight.

I also think that I would remove any molding that is on there. It will serve no purpose once you put the eternabond on and it will make it very hard to put the eternabond down flat without wrinkling. I Think that I might do the same on the corners, unless there is structural value to the moldings.

It will be interesting to hear comments from some people that have already done theirs. I know that there are quite a few that have.

Quote from: Rauch0812;215960I just ordered a 50' roll... figured that outta do it.. thanks.

Your welcome.  Just take your time and it will turn out great.:)

We've dried it out, left it up with the heater all night and the ceiling panels have stiffened back up and the light fixtures still work.  I'm afraid to remove a panel - I'm thinking I won't.  I like the idea of the chalk lines on the roof.  But as far as patching the roof...

Several Questions:

1.  We were debating about whether or not to take of the molding.  Hubby wants to remove it, I was afraid it has structural value.. how do you tell?  

2.  We were going to to the edges and the center seam, and any cracks or holes that have appeared... how bad it is it going to look with little squares on the ceiling?  We're thinking no worse than a typical patch, right?

3.  This is a completely different leak - on the canvas I had a huge area with a reddish/brownish stain, which came almost completely out, but we traced it back to the roof A/C.  You can see where it was coming through the A/C.  Can we take the cover off the A/C on seal around the edges with the tape?  And should we check anything else on the A/C where the water could be coming in?

Thanks.

Quote from: Rauch0812;215980We've dried it out, left it up with the heater all night and the ceiling panels have stiffened back up and the light fixtures still work.  I'm afraid to remove a panel - I'm thinking I won't.  I like the idea of the chalk lines on the roof.  But as far as patching the roof...

Several Questions:

1.  We were debating about whether or not to take of the molding.  Hubby wants to remove it, I was afraid it has structural value.. how do you tell?  

If the tape is wide enough to cover the molding, I would just leave it in place.

2.  We were going to to the edges and the center seam, and any cracks or holes that have appeared... how bad it is it going to look with little squares on the ceiling?  We're thinking no worse than a typical patch, right?

If you go slow and carefully you can sort of make a pattern.  The patches are going to be on the outside, not on the ceiling, right?

3.  This is a completely different leak - on the canvas I had a huge area with a reddish/brownish stain, which came almost completely out, but we traced it back to the roof A/C.  You can see where it was coming through the A/C.  Can we take the cover off the A/C on seal around the edges with the tape?  And should we check anything else on the A/C where the water could be coming in?

Don't use the Eternabond on the AC. Eternabond is permanent and you need to be able to remove the AC.  First thing to check is that the 4 bolts that hold the inside and outside of the AC unit together are snug.  I do not know what the torque on the bolts should be.  When I tighten the bolts on my AC I do it until they are snug.  You do not want to over tighten the bolts.  There is a gasket that goes between the roof and the AC unit.  If it is over compressed water can leak in.  If it is not compressed enough water can leak in.  Try tightening the bolts and see if that fixes the leak.  If it does not you might want to replace the gasket.

Thanks.

If you can, take pictures and post them for us.:)

I'd feel much better leaving the molding in place.

And yes, the patches are for the roof (not the ceiling) which you only see when it's boxed up, I know...

I'll get some pictures this weekend.  We just wrapped it up snug under a tarp and tied it down good until we gather the tools to fix it.  It's supposed to rain good for the next 3 days here.  But I'll get some pics up and you guys can tell me if I'm headed down the right track...

Thanks guys!

It sounds like you have a great plan.  :)

The center molding has no structural value. It's just a neat, easy way to deal with the seam where two pieces of metal come together.

If you leave the molding in place, it may be best to lay the eternabond down, folded in half. Lay it on one side (between the chalk-line and one edge of the molding) , seal it along the chalk-line and up to the molding. Then lay it up over the molding and onto the other side, starting in the center and working out, toward the ends.

I would think that if you start on one end and work toward the other, trying to keep the wrinkles out may be a challenge with that molding there. That's why I thought that removing the molding would give you a nice flat surface to work with.......Then again.....if the molding only sticks up 1/4" or less, it may be a non-issue.
.....it was just a thought.

I'm a little surprised that someone that has done this job hasn't posted.

Good luck with it.

Quote from: tlhdoc;215958sorry to hear you are having problems with your camper.  I would recommend eternabond to re-patch the holes and to seal the seams.  It is a super sticky tape that once put down you can't take it off.  If the wood in the roof is bad, it will need to be replaced at some point.  If you get it dried out and it firms up you should be ok for a while. Good luck with the fix.:)

here is a link to eternabond  http://www.eternabond.com/

+1.....:#

I've used EternaBond to patch our roof, 4 years plus and it's still holding well. One caution with using it, all the caulk should be removed from under where it will be applied otherwise the mfr. says it can lessen the adhesive quality of the EternaBond. I used a caulk remover found at Wal-Mart. It takes a lot of elbow grease and a good stiff brush (I used a wire brush on ours). As everyone mentions, once placed the EternaBond is permanent.
However I do have to disagree with Wayne, use one solid piece across the roof. You can pull the protectant layer of film off as you go, a few inches at a time. Stretch it slightly as you go, but it will be near impossible to get it completly perfect. Most important, clean the area where the EternaBond will be placed with a good dousing of Acetone on a rag. The surface must be clean and all oils removed to ensure good adhesion.
For any misses, the acetone will clean off the mess (again, with a lot of elbow grease)

Quote from: 4Campers;216244use one solid piece across the roof. You can pull the protectant layer of film off as you go, a few inches at a time.

Thanks for chiming in. That's what I wasn't sure about. I would think that using a chalk-line would help a lot toward getting it straight.

I have 5,000 sq ft of that stuff on the roof of our apt building (yep...exactly the same stuff, just wider strips). I know that once it touches down, there is no 2nd chance on straightening it out ;).

WOW, that's a lot of EternaBond Wayne. I know what a roll cost me, hate to see the bill for that roof.
One more thing to interject here, don't cover the camper until it is dried out. A cover will hold moisture and cause mold if there is any wet still there.

Quote from: 4Campers;216254WOW, that's a lot of EternaBond Wayne. I know what a roll cost me, hate to see the bill for that roof.
One more thing to interject here, don't cover the camper until it is dried out. A cover will hold moisture and cause mold if there is any wet still there.

Your roll was about 12.5 sq ft,  @ about $60 a roll, that's $4.80 sq ft.

They put down 2 layers of that stuff on my 5K sq ft roof (that pic is only 1 of 5 sections of roof) so that's 10K sq ft of material. I can tell you that I paid about double what you paid for yours but mine included labor and a whole lot of other stuff. Bottom line is though, that's not a bad price for such a small qty of that stuff. I think that the material costs on our roof (for the roofing material alone) was around $3.20 sq ft.

Ertrabond (//%22http://www.eternabond.com/RV-Leak-Repair-Products-s/22.htm%22) is a wonderful sealant.

Easier to work with in the sun or on a warmer day.
The sealant is visible on the edges of the tape.
No need to remove old caulk.
The sealant is visible on the edges of the tape and never cures (collects dirt)
The 2" wide Roof Seal White (//%22http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=1021%22) is a good size to cover existing chaulk joints on each side of the roof.

QuoteNo need to remove old caulk.

coach, all the research I found says to remove all the existing caulk before laying down EternaBond. If the old caulk dries out and lets go, the EB tape has nothing to hold on to except the old caulk. With the cost and time to do this job it is not one I ever want to repeat if possible.
That price is amazing though on the site you linked. I know the cost of my 2" X 50' roll was more than double that.

Quote from: wavery;216257Your roll was about 12.5 sq ft,  @ about $60 a roll, that's $4.80 sq ft.

They put down 2 layers of that stuff on my 5K sq ft roof (that pic is only 1 of 5 sections of roof) so that's 10K sq ft of material. I can tell you that I paid about double what you paid for yours but mine included labor and a whole lot of other stuff. Bottom line is though, that's not a bad price for such a small qty of that stuff. I think that the material costs on our roof (for the roofing material alone) was around $3.20 sq ft.

WOW Wayne, that means you spent close to $100,000 for a new roof?
Things ARE pricey in Beverly Hills. I could buy a couple of houses here for that. (yea, they would need work, BUT.....)

Quote from: 4Campers;216344WOW Wayne, that means you spent close to $100,000 for a new roof?
Things ARE pricey in Beverly Hills. I could buy a couple of houses here for that. (yea, they would need work, BUT.....)

$80K but who's counting......:p.............thankfully, I didn't have to pay for it. I just manage the place.

Quote from: 4Campers;216343coach, all the research I found says to remove all the existing caulk before laying down EternaBond. If the old caulk dries out and lets go, the EB tape has nothing to hold on to except the old caulk. With the cost and time to do this job it is not one I ever want to repeat if possible.
That price is amazing though on the site you linked. I know the cost of my 2" X 50' roll was more than double that.

I wouldn't use it if I had to remove the caulk from the joint.
The 2" tape will overlap a 1/4" caulk line nearly a inch on each side.
Let the sun warm it up.
The key is the micosealant.
I'm glad I never read anything about removing old caulk.

http://www.truveo.com/RV-Roof-Repair-Vent-Maintenance/id/169912258

coach-
I wish that video was available before I did mine. That is the best introduction to EternaBond tape I have ever seen.
Wonder if I can get a refund on all the elbow grease I spent removing caulk?:)