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RE: Broken faucet - time to replace!

Started by Tim5055, Jan 10, 2003, 10:07 PM

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Redwolf

 The hot water valve on our faucet has snapped...it defininitely feels like it ll just keep turning and pop off.    Instead of trying to find a replacement valve or repair it, I m going to pull the entire faucet off and replace it with a single-valve unit with a longer arm.   I ve got to look at the fittings, but I think a standard kitchen faucet will fit.

Tim5055

 Redwolf
 
QuoteORIGINAL:  Redwolf
 
  Instead of trying to find a replacement valve or repair it, I m going to pull the entire faucet off and replace it with a single-valve unit with a longer arm.

 
 Just check the roof/bunk clearance when purchasing a faucet with a longer arm/spout.  It may save you replacing it a second time[;)]
 

tlhdoc

 RedwolfOthers have used a regular faucet.  Just make sure it isn t too high, where it could get in the way of closing the trailer.[:)]

Ab Diver

 RedwolfAny faucet with 4"  on center valves will bolt right in place. I used a " laundry tub"  faucet cuz it was nice shiny chrome with a taller spicket. I ve seen " bar faucets"  at the home centers as well. If you have a problem getting your hands waaaaaaay back there to unscrew the fittings, all you need is a screwdriver to remove the four clip springs that secure the whole sink in place. Lift the sink, remove the old faucet and hook up the new one in about 5 minutes. Spread some new plumber s putty around the edge of the sink, press it down, screw the clips back in place and you re good to go.
 
 While you re at it, why not fix that aggravating drain that always backs up? A couple 1.25"  fittings from the hardware store and the sink drain will breath a lot easier.

bearbait


wssfetch

 RedwolfOurs was replaced with a Delta bathroom type faucet rather than kitchen faucet.  We have a flip over galley and it doesn t interfere with anything when " flipped."

tlhdoc

 Redwolf[8D]I forgot one of the most important steps.  Make sure you deschnitzify the faucet.[:D][;)]

Redwolf

 ab diverThanks for the suggestions, gang.
 
 Ab, you said:
 
QuoteWhile you re at it, why not fix that aggravating drain that always backs up? A couple 1.25"  fittings from the hardware store and the sink drain will breath a lot easier.
 

 What do you mean?  Put a bigger center opening in the sink bottom?
 
 I ve got to lift the entire sink out, anyway...need more plumbers putty under it, as we ve noted water getting under it from the back.

Ab Diver

 RedwolfHiya Redwolf! (posted and mailed)
 
 In answer to your e-mail, I just went back and had a look at the thread to make *sure* I was discussing the right thing, and found out you asked me a question on the forum a week ago! Sorry about that, I had no idea.  I ll answer your e-mail and on the forum as well.
 
 What I meant was replacing that POS plastic drain in the sink. I know pop-ups need to be constructed as lightly and inexpensively as possible, but that stock " plastic sink drain swiveling reducer fitting"  *defines* chintzy, and is the perfect candidate to be " deschnitzified" .  [;)]  What I did while the sink was off the cabinet was take the sink drain insert (the part that fits into the bottom of the sink) down to the hardware store and get a 1.5"  x 1"  female to female (metal pipe thread) reducer, a 1"  male to 3/4" female 90ΓΈ elbow, a short 3/4"  nipple, and fit them all together so the stock 3/4"  flex-hose drain could attach to the new sink drain. Others have taken it one step farther and replaced the 3/4"  flex-hose with 1.25"  flex-hose. On my  98, it s kinda tight to add the larger flex hose, but switching to new sink drain fittings has helped prevent vapor lock of the drainage system at the sink itself. Sink water now flows much more freely into the drain hose than with that plastic " Flow-Blocker"   swiveling reducer fitting. I ve added another vapor-lock prevention funnel on the outside drain of the trailer, so gray water can flow into our blue tote without backing up as well. If you have the room for a complete 1.25"  drain from the sink to the outside of trailer, so much the better. I had to settle for new fittings under the sink, but this alone greatly improves sink drainage.
 
 I think the newer Colemans already have the larger diameter drain system from the factory, but a member who ones a newer Coleman will have to confirm that. For us older Coleman owners, this little mod really helps prevent a backed-up sink.
 
 And Admin... can we get the " posts since last visit"  link to show more than 50 posts? Far as I know, my java scripting and cookies are all set correctly. But if we are away from the forum for more than " 50 posts worth of time" , we can t see anything posted earlier than the last 50 posts. That s what happened with Redwolf s question to me.

Redwolf

 RedwolfIt turns out that the faucet WASN T broken...the hot water valve had become loose.  Took both valves out, cleaned them, lubed  em a bit, put  em back in and let the water flow.  Both work well now.
 
 And, I couldn t find a single valve 4"  faucet that had a long arm on it...but I m still looking.
 
 Ab, I ll have to definitely consider your suggestion for the drain...it does drain slowly!  It would help if I had wire-reinforced drain hoses into of rubber hoses that go flat...that flatness causes flow restrictions.   I think I ll go over to the pool supply company down the street and see if they have hoses that might work.