Did I do this "bearing" thing right?

[rsmith]

I just repacked the bearings on my PU for the first time and I don't know if I did it correctly.  I pulled off the wheel and grease cap and then cleaned of all the grease from the nut and cotter pin.  Then I removed the cotter pin and unscrewed the nut.  Then I pulled on the wheel hub to get the bearing cone out and what I guess is the seal (looks like a large metal washer).  I then cleaned out the bearing of the old grease and repacked new grease until it was squishing out all sides.  Then put it all back together again.

I have a question or two and I am a little afraid of the answers because I would hate to think I did something irreversibly wrong given that this was my first time and I was basically doing what seemed to make sense?

1)  I cleaned all the parts with the only solvent I had available: gas.  It got rid of all the grease, I just hope I didn't mess up by using gas as the cleaner.

2)  When putting the seal back on (that large washer) I tightened it 1/2 turn past hand tight so as to fit the cotter pin on.  I was then told by a buddy that you are not supposed to tighten them but rather go 1 turn looser after you have hand tighten them.  Which is correct and should I go back and loosen it a little?

thanks

[Ron]

Try this site it may help.

http://i.b5z.net/i/u/1080235/f/Hubs__Drums____Bearings_3-04.pdf

[mike4947]

You got it right as far as you went. Take a look at the link Ron posted. There are inner and outer bearings and that washer was just a washer. The seal is in the back. You really need to get new seals when you regrease.

[MtnCamper]

Also you have 2 sets of bearings, you have to remove the seal to get the back set out. Sound right? I tighten mine with a channel locks (snug, not really tight) , then back up to the first hole for the pin.

[Firefyter-Emt]

Yea, it sounds like you only packed the outer bearing. That is better than no service at all, but you need to buy a new seal (located on the axle sde of the hub) and re-pack the inner bearing. I would take off the hub and bring it to the RV dealer/parts to get the new seals. It would stink the have the wrong one. If you have a grease gun, for about $5.00 they make a realy nice bearing packer that works much better.

[Gone-Camping]

As for loosening it, not sure you want to do too much of that, you don't want to over tighten either. Do it hand tight, and nudge it up just slightly enough to get the cotter pin to drop into the next hole.
 
I don't think cleaning them with gas actually hurt them, as it's both petroleum products. However, you don't really have to get all the old grease out, though it is recommended to do it that way. Properly packed, the new grease will push the old grease out.
 
Removing the inner bearing can be a task if you don't know what you're doing, and from the looks of your post, I'd venture to guess you're not an expert at this, not yet anyway! I remove the inner bearing in a method taught to me by several mechanics (helps to have spent the last 15 years working around autommotive shops.
 
After you get the front bearing & washer off of the spindle, screw the nut back on so that all or most of the thread is on the spindle, grab the brake drum with both hands, and give it a quick solid tug toward you (pulling back towards yourself), the nut will prevent the rear bearing and seal from coming out with the hub, but the brake hub itself should come off, leaving the nut, bearing and seal dangling on the spindle. At this point, remove the nut and you've got the other pieces too!
 
After packing the rear bearing, reinstall it into the hub carefully, you may have to do some very light & delicate taping on the seal all the way around to get it to sit properly.
 
If you have a backyard mechanic friend that could be with you at least the first time, that would help things out. After that, you're qualified to call yourself an expert!!!

[sandykayak]

WAAAAAHHHHH!  Single female PU owner here.  I've been trying to find someone to do this for me in Miami.  

Martino Tires said they could do it and would charge $78 FOR ONE HOUR OF LABOR!!!

KKK Trailer supplies in Homestead said it would be $60 for labor and when I asked about the cost of the grease or whatever he checked and said the total would be between $120 and 140 because you have to change the seal.

Mebco (recommended by Papaso) won't do it but he told me to see a mechanic at a gas station on Miller and 105th St. but I'm wondering if he will really know what he is doing.

Anyone got any other suggestions?

[Firefyter-Emt]

Sandy.. I bet you can do it yourself.. It is very easy and can almost be done with out anymore tools than a claw hammer! There are a couple things that would make life sooo easy though. I would but a grease gun (maybe $10-$20) and then they sell for about $5.00 a tool that you but the bearing between and pump it up with the grease gun (this will be the best way to re-pack the bearings) For about $20 or less they sell a 1 gallon can of parts cleaner. This has a basket in it you can soak the bearings in to clean them. Once you get the hub off, take it to a camper dealer and order a new seal (should be under $10 each) To remove the hub, there is a cap to tap off, remove that, remove the cotterpin, the nut will unscrew by hand, now the outer bearing will come out (put it back in the same spot) put the nut back on and pull on the hub to pop the inner bearing & seal off and go order a new seal. The hub will need to be cleaned out and filled with fresh grease (about $5.00) I can go into more etail, But I think anyone with enough knowledge to drive a car and change a flat tire can do this them self. You spend a little more at first to buy the 2 tools, but then it is almpost free to service your bearings yourself. If you buy seals, buy 4 so you have spares the next time you get ready to do it..

[rsmith]

thanks everyone.  looks like i am going to take it all off and start again.