Coleman side-wall construction

[DaveStremes]

I need to replace some of the interior sidewalls in a Coleman Colorado due moisture getting in from a wet floor.  Can anyone provide a sketch or schematics on how these wall are constructed?  I need to replace some of the floor too but don't know if the floor is attached to the sidewall somehow that I can't see.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!!

[AustinBoston]

My understanding is that during construction, the first thing to go on the frame is the floor, so everything (walls, cabinets, systems, etc) is on top of the floor.  Replacing a floor is a major operation.  I don't know about replacing part of the floor, I'm not sure I would.

Wish I could give you better news.

Austin

[tlhdoc]

Yes the floor is placed on the frame first.  Then the walls are added.  Good luck on the work.

[ColemanCampingFamily]

I need to replace some of the interior sidewalls in a Coleman Colorado due moisture getting in from a wet floor.  Can anyone provide a sketch or schematics on how these wall are constructed?  I need to replace some of the floor too but don't know if the floor is attached to the sidewall somehow that I can't see.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!!

I have a Coleman Aspen (same thing as the Colorado, just different name) that needed work done. Now, I didn't have to replace the sidewalls, but I did have to replace part of the floor. I cut out about 1/4 of the total floor space, all along the back wall (where the slide-out bed is). It was not connected in any way to the sidewalls or the frame that I could tell. Then again, the floor was practically falling apart from rot. It does seem to me that it may have been bolted at the corners, now that I think about it. Anyway...replacing part of the floor was not as bad as I thought it was going to be. I got alot of good advice from the pro's here on this board. I ended up sealing around the frame with some of that spray foam stuff just to make sure it would not get moisture up in there again. So far, so good. Although I will admit that I still feel a little uneasy stepping on that part of the floor, lol. A carpenter I am not!! Because I only had to replace part of the floor, I had to cut it into 3 pieces in order to get it to fit between the frame and walls. Since you are replacing sidewall material, you may be better off taking everything off the frame and replacing the whole floor (imo). I ended up getting some inexpensive "sticky back" linoleum tiles and replaced all of the linoleum. I have also had to place quite a few patches on the canvas. Hence, her name is "Patches"!! Anyway...if you have any questions I would be glad to answer them if I can. I put in alot of hours getting her ready for camping again. This fall I hope to put in an A/C unit...I'll let ya'll know how that one goes, lol. Next summer we are doing a week-long trip and I want A/C!


Jennifer
-----------------------
DW - 69 :U
DH - 67 :!
DS -  :J

1985 Coleman Aspen, AKA "Patches"

[Murf]

We rebuilt our 87 Coleman Colorado from the ground up in 2003.  New floors, walls, canvas, basically anything that wasnt made of steel or aluminum was replaced.  

Personally I wouldnt replace part of the floor - I would do the whole thing - a fair amount of work but its not that bad when you get down to it.

The walls are made from a light wood frame with the internal gaps filled with expanded polystyrene sheets.  A thin plywood sheet is glued & tacked onto the frame forms the interior surface and the aluminum sheet is the exterior which goes on last.

The floor first attaches to the trailer frame and the walls are then attached. Once all that is square and in place the exterior aluminum cheets are fitted and then the aluminum rails go on last.  Plenty of gorilla glue and stainless steel screws hold it all together.

I over-engineered everything so expect to see this camper in use for a very very long time to come but we are in the process of buying a travel trailer so won't have use for the Coleman after this season.

Does anyone have an idea of what this Colorado would be worth?

Murf
86 Coleman Colorado
91 Suzuki Sidekick

.

[DaveStremes]

Thanks Murf and Jennifer for your replies.  I have taken the bull by the horn so to speak, and disassembled the trailer.  As I contemplate the repairs and rebuilding, a few questions come to mind:
- what did you use for flooring material - plywood?
- have you had any problems with shrinkage/splitting with the linoleum?  We are in Canada, so have cold winter temperatures to deal with
- how to you store the trailer in the winter?

Thanks again for all your help!

Dave

We rebuilt our 87 Coleman Colorado from the ground up in 2003.  New floors, walls, canvas, basically anything that wasnt made of steel or aluminum was replaced.  

Personally I wouldnt replace part of the floor - I would do the whole thing - a fair amount of work but its not that bad when you get down to it.

The walls are made from a light wood frame with the internal gaps filled with expanded polystyrene sheets.  A thin plywood sheet is glued & tacked onto the frame forms the interior surface and the aluminum sheet is the exterior which goes on last.

The floor first attaches to the trailer frame and the walls are then attached. Once all that is square and in place the exterior aluminum cheets are fitted and then the aluminum rails go on last.  Plenty of gorilla glue and stainless steel screws hold it all together.

I over-engineered everything so expect to see this camper in use for a very very long time to come but we are in the process of buying a travel trailer so won't have use for the Coleman after this season.

Does anyone have an idea of what this Colorado would be worth?

Murf
86 Coleman Colorado
91 Suzuki Sidekick

.

[Murf]

Hi Dave  I used construction grade tongue & groove sub floor (50 year guarantee against rot).  Needed tongue & groove as couldnt get a single piece wide enough to do the floor (obv would be better if it was).  Gorilla glued the two sheets together, screwed a metal strip on the exposed length of the seam underneath, treated the top side with sealer, then flipped the trailer (after rust proofing) over and sprayed sort of liquid tar all over the underside.  Rot will never be a problem.
It was all damp rotted and spongy before but is now really solid and I have 100% confidence in it.

I used vinyl floor inside, no problem with hrinkage or cracking but I do store the Colorado indoors.  Carpet might be nice but harder to keep clean, that said it wouldnt cost much to recarpet it either.

I will post some pictures of the before & after later
Good luck & take your time

Murf

[DaveStremes]

Pardon my ignorence, but what is "obv"?

When you re-laid the floor, did you put it in the original position, or did you move it beck slightly?  Part of the problem with the floor rot seems to be that the front 2inches of the floor is in front of the front steel cross member.  Woudl it be better if the front of the trailer actually sat on top of that steel?  Also would you have the dimensions of the floor?  What started out as a partial floor replacement turned into a full replacement, and I forgot to measure the floor (front to back) before it was all gone!!  When you re-assembled, did you put an chalking in the area between the side of the floor and the aluminum sides before you screwed them together?

Thanks again for all your elp.
Dave

Hi Dave  I used construction grade tongue & groove sub floor (50 year guarantee against rot).  Needed tongue & groove as couldnt get a single piece wide enough to do the floor (obv would be better if it was).  Gorilla glued the two sheets together, screwed a metal strip on the exposed length of the seam underneath, treated the top side with sealer, then flipped the trailer (after rust proofing) over and sprayed sort of liquid tar all over the underside.  Rot will never be a problem.
It was all damp rotted and spongy before but is now really solid and I have 100% confidence in it.

I used vinyl floor inside, no problem with hrinkage or cracking but I do store the Colorado indoors.  Carpet might be nice but harder to keep clean, that said it wouldnt cost much to recarpet it either.

I will post some pictures of the before & after later
Good luck & take your time

Murf

[Murf]

Hi Dave

Apologies for the shorthand, obv = obviously

I put the floor back in the original position or as near to it as I could get. I didnt have any rot at the front at all but the corner by the door was like a sponge.  If you use good sub-floor and treat the floor and walls properly I dont think you are going to have rot issues anytime soon.

My Coleman is about 200 miles away in storage so I cannot measure but the length of the front wall plus a little bit should be the width of the floor.  

The length of the sidewall plus the thickness of the front and back walls should equal the length.  Leave the floor a little bit long in all dimensions and trim later. Dry fit the walls before final assembly so you are sure the floor is the right size. Trim if necessary.  Remember you can always cut away but you cannot add on.

When I re-assembled I put a line of caulk on the inside edge of the aluminium before offering the aluminium sides to the floor screwing them to the underside of the floor.  Basically caulk everywhere it make sense to prevent leaks.

Good luck

Murf

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