Trip to Yellowstone

[duke]

I am planning a trip to Yellowstone this summer from Ohio.  So far I thinking of going to  Badlands, Yellowstone, Grand Tetons, and maybe Grand Canyon.  Can anyone recommend how long to stay at each.  I can make the trip up to 4 weeks long.  Also, any other stops that we should go to?

[AustinBoston]

In 2001, we spent 8 weeks (56 nights) travelling in the west.  (We lived in Massachusetts at the time).

All of the places you have mentioned I would highly recommend.  In addition:

If you are going to the Badlands, take a day to see Mt. Rushmore, Crazy Horse memorial, and Wind Cave.  Some people think Wall Drug is a hoot; others find it the ultimate tourist trap.  I thought it was both.

Yellowstone:  When we were there, we camped at Flagg Ranch, which is halfway between Grand Teton and Yellowstone.  It allowed us to see both parks without moving camp.  But it did require a substantial amount of driving for day-trips.

If you go to the Grand Canyon, do what you can to go to the North Rim.  There are far less touristy things to do, but I believe the views of the canyon are at least double what you can find at the south rim.  90% of the visitors to the grand canyon go to the south rim because there is an airport that one can drive to the canyon from.  It's less than 18 miles from the south rim to the north rim, but it's over 200 miles to drive it.

From the GC north rim, Be sure to see Bryce and Zion NP's.  I have seen things that lead me to believe Capitol Reef NP is worth the visit, but I have not seen it.  Arches and Canyonlands NP's are also highly recommended, but again, not someplace I have seen.

Something you might not think of - plan on changing your engine oil about midway through the trip.  People don't think about that kind of stuff on vacation, but if towing a trailer through the mountains is not "severe duty" then there is no such thing.

Austin

[Kelly]

I agree with AustinBoston on the stops in South Dakota.  We spent a week in that area last summer ~ it was my 4th trip to the area and the only site we saw for a second time was Mount Rushmore.  

I also second what AB said about going to the north rim of the Grand Canyon ~ we heard so many wonderful things about it that we didn't even attempt the touristy side.  Be prepared for some awesome temperature changes.  We were there in August.  During the day the temps were a bit over 100* and at night they'd drop into the 40*s and 50*s!!  We'd use the AC and furnace all in the same 24-hour period ~ just like Minnesota.  

I haven't been to Zion or Bryce, but I have been to Arches and Canyonlands.  We spent a day in each park.  It was enough for the kids (youngest was 3 at the time), but I would have stayed longer.

Another area we really liked was Mesa Verde NP in southwestern Colorado.  You can still see where and how the Anasazi lived and it is absolutely amazing.  We spent two days here.

Sounds like a wonderful trip.  Someday ...

[AustinBoston]

If you go to the Grand Canyon, do what you can to go to the North Rim.  There are far less touristy things to do, but I believe the views of the canyon are at least double what you can find at the south rim.  90% of the visitors to the grand canyon go to the south rim because there is an airport that one can drive to the canyon from.  It's less than 18 miles from the south rim to the north rim, but it's over 200 miles to drive it.

I know it's more than a bit tacky to reply to your own post, but I forgot to mention that I have seen both rims, and have driven between them.  If we ever get back to the GC, it will be to spend a week at the North Rim.

Austin

[GeneF]

Yellowstone, You can easliy spend three or four days there.  One day to just do each one of the loops.

Badlands and Walldrugs, two to three days.  There is a cg in the Badlands but dry camping only and it can get hot there.  Might want to look for a cg near Wall Drugs.

If I had my choice between Rushmore and Crazy Horse, I would go to Crazy Horse.  Been there twice, about 10 years apart just to see the progress they have been making.

Don't know your route but if you have the time, Arches, Zion, Canyonlands, Bryce, are worth the trip.  A fast trip would be a week to Las Vegas.

We did that a couple of years ago and are hoping to head back out there this fall to take it a bit slower.

Grand Canyon  To me and Dw, a couple of days there was enough for us.

They have just opened up that new SkyWalk there but it sure looked pricey.  Like about $75 to look at it and about $100 to walk on it.

Whatever you do, you are heading out to some beautiful country.  Don't rush the areas you are going through.  Just too much to see.

Have a great trip.

[chrismarques]

AustinBoston
How was the Flagg Ranch? We are reserved there for 3 nights this summer.
We'll be coming through the Badlands and yes, stopping at Wall Drug then 2 nights in Hill City at the Rafter J Bar, 1 in Cody then a day through Yellowstone to the Flagg Ranch. We'll probably do a 2nd day in Yellowstone and a day to Jackson Hole. How far is the drive from Flagg Ranch to Jackson Hole?
I was last through here in 1984 and want to see the progress on Crazy Horse

[SpeakEasy]

Oh, gosh would I love to do what you are planning!

A must-do on the way out is Custer State Park south of Rapid City, SD. I think I've raved about Custer SP before, but I can't help myself. We camped at Custer for about 3 nights on our trip out west a few years ago. We didn't know what we were getting into. It is an absolutely awesome park. The wildlife there is more abundant than in almost any other place we've been. The scenery is excellent. It's south of Mt. Rushmore, so you can drive up and see the monument while you are there. Mountain goats, bighorn sheep, bison, prairie dogs, pronghorn sheep, wild burros; I am sure I even saw a pawprint of a mountain lion! Excellent hiking too. If you go there you won't be disappointed.

In Yellowstone you might want to try swimming in the boiling river and another river that I think might be called the firehole river. You won't find anything about these swimming spots in any guidebooks, because the authorities don't want to be seen as endorsing their use. The boiling river is HOT! There are spots that are dangerously hot. But then you can find little coves and eddies where it's like sitting in a jacuzzi. Absolutely awesome, but "at your own risk" if you know what I mean. The other river, the one whose name I'm not sure of, is warm but not hot. It has a strong currrent which is fun to ride. Lots of people swim there, but again, it's at your own risk, and no guidebook mentions it.

Really one of the best things about Yellowstone is the wildlife. Wow. Maybe you want to invest in a good spotting scope to take along for wildlife viewing.

I envy you this trip!

-Speak

[AustinBoston]

AustinBoston
How was the Flagg Ranch? We are reserved there for 3 nights this summer.
We'll be coming through the Badlands and yes, stopping at Wall Drug then 2 nights in Hill City at the Rafter J Bar, 1 in Cody then a day through Yellowstone to the Flagg Ranch. We'll probably do a 2nd day in Yellowstone and a day to Jackson Hole. How far is the drive from Flagg Ranch to Jackson Hole?
I was last through here in 1984 and want to see the progress on Crazy Horse

Flagg Ranch was mostly open, with mostly pull-through sites.  There were some trees, but not a lot, on the ned we were at.  Other parts of the campground were more heavily treed.

Restrooms were reasonably clean, but showing signs of age.

This information is from a visit 6 1/2 years ago so things may have changed considerably.  When I looked at it with Google Maps the sattellite view looked like nothing had changed, but Google Maps images can be up to 10 years old.

Austin

[duke]

Thanks for all of the great information.  Should I reserve spots at campgrounds now or is it better to get spots as you go?  Is it impossible to get into state or national spots whenever you arrive or even a day before?

[SpeakEasy]

Only a couple of the in-park campgrounds at Yellowstone or Grand Teton accept reservations. It may already be too late to get reservations in some of those. Most of the campgrounds in Yellowstone are first-come, first-served. During the peak camping months you have to get there early in the morning to get a site.

What we did was to reserve a site for one night in the Bridge Bay campground in Yellowstone. We did that because we knew that with travel time we couldn't get to Yellowstone early enough in the morning to get a site without a reservation. (Bridge Bay is a huge campground but not a very nice one.) Then, the next morning we got up early and moved to the campground at Norris Geyser Basin, which is a first-come, first-served campground.

-Speak

[duke]

Speak,  You have mentioned Custer State Park as a great place to stay and I am planning to go there for a few nights.  Do you recommend any particular camp in the park?

Only a couple of the in-park campgrounds at Yellowstone or Grand Teton accept reservations. It may already be too late to get reservations in some of those. Most of the campgrounds in Yellowstone are first-come, first-served. During the peak camping months you have to get there early in the morning to get a site.

What we did was to reserve a site for one night in the Bridge Bay campground in Yellowstone. We did that because we knew that with travel time we couldn't get to Yellowstone early enough in the morning to get a site without a reservation. (Bridge Bay is a huge campground but not a very nice one.) Then, the next morning we got up early and moved to the campground at Norris Geyser Basin, which is a first-come, first-served campground.

-Speak

[SpeakEasy]

Speak,  You have mentioned Custer State Park as a great place to stay and I am planning to go there for a few nights.  Do you recommend any particular camp in the park?

Well, I only know the one campground we stayed at, which was the Game Lodge campground. We liked it, but who knows if its the best one or not?

-Speak

[Gutpile]

Really hope to get to those places out west someday.  For the time being, they are just too far away for a week-long vacation.  My boss just bought a 5th wheel and he and his girl are leaving next month for 2 months - leaving NY and hitting New Mexico, Yellowstone, and returning through Canada.  I hope to have his combination of health and $$$ someday.  In the meantime, the Adirondacks and New England will suffice nicely.