owner issues

[crazyhorse]

Hi Everyone,
I am new to this forum and also new to pop-up camping.
I recently aquired a 1989 Starcraft Nova series, the roof leaked and had ruined the floor in places.
I have made the needed repairs and now the refrigirator is another issue.
It is a Dometic unit, Model # RM 2190. on the door it is printed LPG/DC, of course there was no owners manual with it.
It also has a voltage inverter under one of the seats, now my question, When parked at a camp site with electricity and plugged in should the fridge operate off of 12 VDC through the voltage inverter and what part does the battery play in this?
The inverter has a three position switch, Battery, Off, and Cov. how does it need to be set when plugged in?

I hope some of you can answer my questions, I'm kinda operating in the dark here.

many thanks,
Frank aka crazyhorse

[dthurk]

Try this link:
 www.bryanrtv.com/docs.html
 
 You should be able to find a manual here for your refrigerator.

[crazyhorse]

Thanks for your reply, however when I pulled up that website you posted I got a bio for some guy named Nathan S. Bryan, it went on to tell about his acting credits and his involment in the Japanese arts.

The site had nothing regarding a manual.

Could it be that you got your sites mixed up ?

Frank

[tknick]

http://www.bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/rm2100.pdf is the correct link.  dave just transposed two of the letters. this is a service manual and not the owners manual.  email dometic CustomerSupportCenter@DometicUSA.com with the model info for the manual on older models. you can run your fridge on propane while at the CG, but i would use 12v.  propane actually cools better, but you are already paying for the electricity so why not use it instead of the propane?

sounds like you would set your converter to the CON (or coverter) setting.  you want to convert the 110v AC to 12v DC to be used by the fridge and other 12v appliances.  when in the converter setting, the battery is out of the loop. the converter is supplying all the current and charging the battery.  BATT would allow you to run the 12v appliances off of the battery when 110v is not available.  off is obviously off.

running your fridge on your battery alone will drain it in a matter of hours so it is not recommended.

HTH
travis

[crazyhorse]

Thanks Travis,
I thought either Dave or I might be confused, so as far as you know, the fridge is supposed to operate with the converter in the con. position, now suppose the battery is no good and still in the loop, would that affect the operation of the fridge, or cause it not to work or do you know?

Thanks,
Frank

[tknick]

it should not.  think of the coverter (in converter mode) as a spliter.  on the input side you have 110v AC coming in. on the output side you have one leg going to your battery to charge it and a separate independant leg going to power the 12v appliances.  you wouldn't need a good battery or a battery at all for your 12v appliances to work because the coverter is supplying the 12v.   in the BAT mode, the converter simply acts as a junction box connecting your battery (as the sole source of 12v) to the 12v appliances in the PUP.  Even if you were plugged in to 110v, in BAT mode it would have no effect on the 12v appliances in the PUP.

I've added a diagram that hopefully will clear up any confusion.

travis

[crazyhorse]

Well Travis,
I don't seem to have to worry anymore about the coverter.
I went out this evening to check some connections with my handy, dandy VOM and as it turns out now I don't have any 12 dc power anywhere.
I checked both fuses and they were good, the 12v interior lights worked at one time, but no more.
I'm really stuck now, I checked on the internet for the manufacturer, B & W power supply manufacturing, out of Kokomo, Indiana, and there is no listing for them, I suppose the 12v side of the converter finally gave up,I plan to pull it out tommorrow and see if I can tell anything about it.

In the meantime do you know of any company that will rebuild the one that I have?

Many thanks,
Frank