Hey--Watch those Yakima rack-tracks!

[GWPeck]

Just had the ol' '06 Fleetwood Timberlake opened up for spring-cleaning and prepping for a camp-outing.  Despite my best efforts with Dri-Z-Air, we found some mold in the roof and curtains, and some *bubbling* of the ceiling-liner in one corner of the roof.

It turns out, after consultation with my friendly local dealer, that we must have had some leakage through the fastener-locations for the optional Yakima-rack tracks installed on the roof.  The factory uses a sealant-strip under the racks, and installs screws through the sealant--but this was not enough to keep the water out.

The dealer offered to make immediate warranty-repairs along with a total roof-seal job, but was over-ruled by Fleetwood, who is insisting upon a complete replacement roof installation.  (Not bad!)  Delivery for the replacement part is going to be about 6-weeks (that's bad)--but, in the meantime, I could pull the rack-rails myself and do some sealing-work until the replacement roof arrives.

The design of the track-installation is not the best--it does not really allow the tracks to drain at the ends, so there is always a potential for standing-water in the track-grooves.  Even though there is no pressure behind the water, if there is a weakness in the seal, anyplace a fastener-penetration occurs, you could get a leak over time, with temperature changes.  I may have a look at this when I get my new roof, and see if it could be improved.  A small drilled-hole in the track-end might be all that is needed.

The caulking/sealing product in use at the factory is not the best I've seen...nor is the application that good.

Camping World has a great product--

Pro-Flex Caulk

This Pro-Flex caulk seems to be a caulking-and-sealing dream.  Since I've also found out it is an owner-responsibility to maintain all caulked-joints on your Fleetwood/Coleman roof, this stuff is going everywhere I see a marginal caulk-job (the factory caulking on my roof had pulled away from the roof-cap in a few spots--though not where our leaks occurred).  The while-color is better than the factory stuff as well--blends better with the other colors of the top/plastic parts.

[wavery]

I would NEVER recommend installing a rack on ANY roof (TV included) by drilling holes through the top of the roof.

When I was Service Manager for a large Chevy dealership in LA, roof rack leaks was a major problem. I have to think that leaks in a PU roof would be even more problematic because the roofs are no where near as solid as the roof of an automobile and the automobile has a much smoother ride that a trailer.

Think about it. The roof rack is to put "Stuff" on (be it bikes or luggage). As the trailer bounces it's way down the road, tremendous stresses are put on the feet of the rack. There is a lot of flexing going on and I can't imagine any sealer holding up to that stress.

The best mounting of a PU roof rack, that I have seen, has involved running bolts and nuts through the side of the roof, as apposed to the top of the roof. I feel that this is a much safer approach and if there is a sealant failure, the damage would be far less.

[tlhdoc]

Are you still under the first year warranty?  If not Fleetwood will bill you for shipping the roof and that will be expensive.  Good luck on the replacement.

[GWPeck]

I would NEVER recommend installing a rack on ANY roof (TV included) by drilling holes through the top of the roof.

When I was Service Manager for a large Chevy dealership in LA, roof rack leaks was a major problem. I have to think that leaks in a PU roof would be even more problematic because the roofs are no where near as solid as the roof of an automobile and the automobile has a much smoother ride that a trailer.

Think about it. The roof rack is to put "Stuff" on (be it bikes or luggage). As the trailer bounces it's way down the road, tremendous stresses are put on the feet of the rack. There is a lot of flexing going on and I can't imagine any sealer holding up to that stress.

The best mounting of a PU roof rack, that I have seen, has involved running bolts and nuts through the side of the roof, as apposed to the top of the roof. I feel that this is a much safer approach and if there is a sealant failure, the damage would be far less.

You may be right, and your advice makes a lot of sense--but...this was a factory installation, and they are covering the problem without a squawk, so I'm happy.  

I would not have purchased a trailer with this option if it looked to be problematic....though I have to say, I have twice had the (dubious) pleasure of seeing Winnebagos constructed from beginning-to-end, and the whole RV-construction business is not pretty, from a fit/finish/materials-quality standpoint.

So, these Yakima rack-tracks are really accessory-mounting channels running the length of the roof--lots of load-spreading going on here, so perhaps the per-unit measure amount of force applied to the system may not be so bad.  

The track-mounting screws do not through-penetrate the entire roof--they are buried in the wood material under the aluminum cap.  It was this material that got damp when water leaked into passages created by the screw threads.  My service manager indicated they usually put sealant down the screw holes if they do the re-sealing locally--they find that has fixed these problems for others.

I believe if Fleetwood had originally bedded the tracks in a Pro-Flex-type sealant on installation, the combination of caulk adhesion and screw-fastener sealing and clamping would be ample to ensure sealant integrity for the loads you could apply to the tracks without damaging them.  There would be a lot of square-inches of bond-area carrying only a few PSI of force in any axis.  Providing drainage for the tracks would be a good added precaution.

I think it may be telling that Fleetwood is replacing the entire roof--maybe they have had enough problems with their first installations that they have come up with some better engineering to fix the problem and prevent call-backs.

I guess we'll see.  We'll be carrying two Breezer commuter-style bikes (total weight less than 50 lbs) atop this unit.  I still have 4 years of factory warranty to cover any future roof-leak problems....

[GWPeck]

Are you still under the first year warranty?  If not Fleetwood will bill you for shipping the roof and that will be expensive.  Good luck on the replacement.

Thankfully, yes, we're under the one-year time-period.  I thought it was interesting Fleetwood volunteered to send the replacement roof--generally, I'm told the alternative is a repair-kit they supply the dealer for warranty-covered installation.  The kit fixes the damaged area and they then go and re-seal the entire roof--a giant caulk-a-rama from their own description of it.

I'll let everyone know how this shakes out.  I can also tell you that the service manager at the Apache Camping Center here in Tacoma is an excellent guy, and I'm very pleased with how they are taking care of us.

[tlhdoc]

Thankfully, yes, we're under the one-year time-period. I thought it was interesting Fleetwood volunteered to send the replacement roof--generally, I'm told the alternative is a repair-kit they supply the dealer for warranty-covered installation. The kit fixes the damaged area and they then go and re-seal the entire roof--a giant caulk-a-rama from their own description of it.
 
I'll let everyone know how this shakes out. I can also tell you that the service manager at the Apache Camping Center here in Tacoma is an excellent guy, and I'm very pleased with how they are taking care of us.

I am also surprised that they wanted to replace the roof.  I am happy for you that the shipping will be covered.

[mike4947]

A little history. Originally the Alumitite roof tracks were not even sealed except at the screw locations. FLeetwood said the double lap seam would keep any water out. They found out differently. Then came the sealing strip and as you found out it didn't do a great job either. The forces on the roof and track allowed water to enter even on repairs with their "caulking sealing".
The replacement roof has IIRC the tracks bonded into the fiberglass (Filon) roof surface. I haven't seen one as our local dealer stopped selling PU's. But they said there are no "fastener holes" in the new design.

[fourkids]

There are also no endcaps on the rails, because when I went back to my dealer to mention that there were no endcaps on my brand new PUP tracks, the service department was surprised and they called Fleetwood and were told that they no longer make or provide endcaps for the tracks.  They didn't give a reason and now I understand why.

[GWPeck]

There are also no endcaps on the rails, because when I went back to my dealer to mention that there were no endcaps on my brand new PUP tracks, the service department was surprised and they called Fleetwood and were told that they no longer make or provide endcaps for the tracks.  They didn't give a reason and now I understand why.

UPDATE---

After 6 weeks of waiting, the new roof for my '06 Timberlake arrived, and has been installed.  NO FASTENERS of any kind penetrate the rack-channels--the whole thing is a bonded assembly now, and there is a very-apparent (but thin) sealant-bead at the intersection between the roof-track and the roof itself.  

There are end-caps on the tracks, however (Hmmmm....).

I'm considering now whether to apply some Pro-Flex caulk along this intersection.  It might be a "belt-and-suspenders" approach, but in my time with Loctite Corporation we determined that adhesive-fillets added to bond-lines like this can add as much as 25% more bond-strength to the joint.  

This would also thoroughly slam the door on any leakage or deterioration of the adhesive under the track.

BTW--total estimated value of this repair is in the range of $1500.  I owe Fleetwood a tip-of-the-topper for stepping-up and taking care of the entire job without any hesitation or a squawk.

Now, if the dealer can fix that pesky water-line leak under the sink...