brake kit for 1999 Coleman Taos

[debecc]

Hi,

Does anyone know if it is possible to add brakes to a 1999 Coleman Taos. I tow with a subaru outback sport and would just like to have some extra security, but i was unsure of whether it is possible to put brakes on easily or if it is a huge job.

thanks for any advice.

Deb

[tknick]

You may already have brakes on your trailer.  After typing the message below, I remembered that at some point, (don't know the exact year) Fleetwood/Coleman started putting electric brakes on all of their PUPs.  If you look on the back side of your PUP tires and see a wire coming out of the back of the wheel Hub, then you have brakes already.  You just aren't using them.  If that is the case, you would add a brake controller in your TV and wire it to your TV plug, add a battery to the PUP (if you don't already have one) and a break away switch on the trailer to power the brakes in the event the PUP separates from your TV.

If you do not have brakes already.....read the post below.

BTW, I'm sure someone knows the year Fleetwood/Coleman started with brakes on every model and will post accordingly.

The first thing you would have to do is look at the back of the tires where they are mounted to the axle and see if there is a mounting plate on the axle for the brakes.  (I think you can tell this way, but I may be thinking of something else). If your axle is capable of mounting brakes, it is not that difficult.  However, that could cascade into a lot of other things that are not necesarily difficult, but time and money consuming.  

After installing the brakes, you will need to run wires to your PUP plug.  You would usually use a 7 way bargman style plug.  That may or may not mean changing the plug on your PUP and TV as well.  You would need to purchase a brake controller and wire/install that in your TV.  If you do not already have a battery on your PUP, you would need to add one of those in case the PUP separated from your TV while in transit.  The battery would activate the break away switch applying the brakes on the PUP and bringing it to a stop.  BTW you would need to purchase the break away switch as well and wire it accordingly.

Like I said, none of this is terribly difficult.  Everything comes with directions and between the directions and this board, we'll get your through all the projects.  None of this is intended to scare you away either, just want to make sure you have a full understanding of the scope of the project.

You will not regret adding the brakes.  The piece of mind is worth the work.  It will also save wear and tear on your TV.

let us know what you find out and what you choose to do.
travis

[AustinBoston]

You may already have brakes on your trailer.  After typing the message below, I remembered that at some point, (don't know the exact year) Fleetwood/Coleman started putting electric brakes on all of their PUPs.

Almost...I think it was all except the Taos...then a few years later, they added the Taos.  

In 1999, they only put brakes on if it had a water heater.

Water heater? Can someone explain that to me?  It's been about 6 years, and I still don't understand that connection.

Austin

[debecc]

Thanks for that information. i stopped at the local RV dealer yesterday and inquired about brakes, and possible price. He suggested thesame thing you did about checking the axle for mounting plates. I took a quick look last night when i got home and i don't believe i have the mounting plate i need. I would assume then that the whole axle would need to be switched out. I just don't have the money to do a huge job like that right now.
Are there any other safety features that I can put in place?

Thanks again for the replies. i will print it out so I have a reference to go by if i ever am able to add the brakes and controller.


Deb

[AustinBoston]

You didn't tell us what you are towing with, but unless you are towing with an undersized vehicle, don't let the lack of brakes worry you.  IIRC, the '99 Taos was rated less than 1,200 lbs.  The sales brocure for my camper had a photo of a Taos mounted on one of my bunks (to show how strong the bunks were).  Just plan on getting brakes when you can afford it, and remember that if you tow a lot, having trailer brakes will reduce wear and tear on the tow vehicle brakes, partly offestting the cost of getting them.

The biggest safety feature when towing is to give yourself space.  This is true even if your trailer has brakes.

Experts used to recommend a two second following distance in normal driving.  Some now recommend three.   I think  this is misguided; the real issue isn't the suggested or recommended following distance, it is the actual following distance, which averages under a second around here with many at less than 1/4 second (and averages 1/4 second at rush hour, with many at far less than that).  A two second actual following distance is probably plenty for a well rested driver with normal vision and reactions in daytime and good weather.  Some older drivers and most inexperienced drivers should use three seconds.

I've always aimed at three seconds with a trailer with brakes, and recommend four seconds for a trailer without brakes.  When the vehicle in front of you passes something (sign, shadow, change in pavement, overpass, etc.), start counting thousand one, thousand two, thousand three...until you pass that same object.  The number you get to is your following distance.  After you do it for a while, you will get used to how far that is (but recognize that it changes with speed) and only need to use it to check up on yourself.  I seldom do it more than a few times on a day-long trip any more.

Slow down.  Speed increases your stopping distance and gives you less time to react.  You are going on vacation.  Who wants to arrive at the campground stressed and sweating from a white-knuckle race (with trailer)?

Take your trailer and tow vehicle to a certified scale (most truck stops have them).  For a small fee, get it weighed, and make sure you are not over any of the weight limits.

If You Tow in the Mountains

Use a low gear on the downhill side, and stay below the posted speed limit.

If a line of traffic develops behind you, let it!  If it bothers you, find a safe place to pull over and let them by.  In some western mountainous states, it is the law to allow traffic to pass when five or more vehicles back up behind you.  Even those states expect you to use a turnoff to allow traffic to pass, so only do so where it is safe to, and don't worry about it otherwise.

Don't ride the brakes.  I see more and more people riding their brakes down mountain passes.  Even with a passenger vehicle, this is wrong.  Shift low enough so that you can feel the engine hold the vehicle back.  You will still gain speed, but more slowly.  When you've gained 5-10 MPH, brake firmly to slow by that same 5-10 MPH, then begin coasting again.  At the TOP speed, you should still be below the speed limit.

If you find you have to brake harder and harder or longer and longer,  or if you can smell something like hot metal or burning chemicals, it is time to STOP and let your brakes cool (at least 15 minutes) before continuing.  If this happens, move the vehicle a foot every couple minutes so that the rotors/drums can cool evenly without warping.  (The part under the pads will cool more slowly, so you want to move that spot.)  Do not turn off the engine, but leave it on to allow the transmission fluid to circulate and cool.  Do not stop where grass or leaves can come in contact with the brakes or exhaust; you don't want to start the next mega-fire.

Mountain roads are not only steep, but are also often very curvy with limited road visibility and narrow lanes.  Often, the recommended speed for the curves is lower than the legal limit.  Slow down for the curves.  Frequently, the inside of the curve (right side when the road is curving to the right) is as much as twice as steep as the road in general.

Mountain roads with significant downhill grades are usually posted.  For a trailer without brakes, anything less than a 4% grade is probably unimportant.  With brakes, anything less than 6% grade is probably unimportant.  Beyond that, both the steepness and the length are important.  A 6% grade for 5 miles is far less risky than a 10% grade for 1 mile, and a 10% grade for two miles is more than twice the stress of a 10% grade for one mile.  There are *very* few interstates with 10% grades; I only know of one, but you can run into them on secondary roads.  Just take it easy and go slow.

Most people, when they think of mountains, think of the Sierra or the Rockies.  While western mountain roads often have long, steep grades (with spectacular views), eastern mountains can, for short sections, have significantly steeper grades.  In addition, eastern mountain roads often have tighter curves, narrower lanes, and more pavement issues.  Don't ignore the mountins just because you're in Virginia instead of Colorado.

If you tow in western mountains a lot, invest in this book:
Mountin Directory West (Amazon.com).

If you tow in eastern mountains, invest in this book:
Mountain Directory East (Amazon.com).

There is also a CD available that combines both books.

"You can go down a mountain a thousand times too slowly, but only once too fast."

Be safe.
Have fun.  If it's no fun, why bother?

Austin

[Old Goat]

You might try Northern Tool Co. They have all kinds of electric brake parts in stock or can order them for you. My son built a tandem axle trailer for his saw mill and got every thing he needed from them, axles, wheel bearings, backing plates complete with electric brake assemblys, etc..

[camper33]

Deb,

I just purchased a Jayco and tow it with my Subaru Impreza Wagon. I'm wondering if you've had any problems towing with the Outback Sport? Mine seems to tow just fine and I'm within the tow weight, but I am still a little nervous pulling with a car.
I'm going on my first long trip in two weeks - considering putting in a transmission cooler because people say it's worth it even if not necesary.

Thanks,
Cori

[wavery]

Deb,

I just purchased a Jayco and tow it with my Subaru Impreza Wagon. I'm wondering if you've had any problems towing with the Outback Sport? Mine seems to tow just fine and I'm within the tow weight, but I am still a little nervous pulling with a car.
I'm going on my first long trip in two weeks - considering putting in a transmission cooler because people say it's worth it even if not necesary.

Thanks,
Cori

A trans cooler will pay for itself any times over, over the life of the vehicle.

It's a known fact that the hotter a transmission runs, the shorter it's life. Therefore, the cooler it runs, the longer the transmission's life.

BTW, by adding a trans cooler, you take a load off of your vehicles radiator and your engine will run cooler and last longer as well. :sombraro:

When it comes to deciding on the size.....bigger is (almost) always better. A fan assisted trans cooler may allow you to eliminate running the (hot) trans fluid through the vehicles radiator all together. In most cases, this is a real bonus and should be considered for areas where you do mountain towing and/or it is very hot.

[ScoobyDoo]

Austin;
     good points on mountains. I have trucked coast to coast and border to border but the hairyest places I have seen were in the Ozarks or Kentucky. A 1/4 mile unsigned 10% with a 15MPH curve at the bottem can be more exciting than 3 miles of 6% if you don't know what is comming.

[FuzzyOne]

This might help.  i put this together a few years ago.

 
http://www.patmedia.net/jbevan/camping/brakes.htm