fridge ignorance

[ngruener]

Just bought a 94 Starcraft with a fridge.  I am confused about the whole 12v/propane issue. First of all, I assume there is no hidden electrical plug that I could just plug into at the camp, right?  Also, is there supposed to be a battery somewhere or is the 12v converted from the truck battery?  Sorry about the ignorance.  I need a Campers for Dummies book!

[AustinBoston]

Just bought a 94 Starcraft with a fridge.  I am confused about the whole 12v/propane issue. First of all, I assume there is no hidden electrical plug that I could just plug into at the camp, right?  Also, is there supposed to be a battery somewhere or is the 12v converted from the truck battery?  Sorry about the ignorance.  I need a Campers for Dummies book!

I would be surprised if there was NOT a plug where your pop-up plugs into 120V.  Your fridge should already be connected to that system.

Depending on the exact model, your fridge should run on 120V when plugged in, propane when not plugged in, and 12V when towing.  You have to set a switch (or set of switches) to use each one, and you have to light the propane for it to use propane.

The 12V battery is optional.  If you camp without an electrical hookup (sometimes called "dry camping" because if there's no electricity, there's no water hookup either), then the 12V battery runs the lights, water pump, and furnace, and perhaps a few less common accessories (if your camper is equipped with those things).

The battery is never used to run the fridge on 12V because even the biggest battery would not last a day running the fridge.

I hope this helps; if it creates more questions, ask.  We all started out in the "Pop-ups for Dummies" stage at one time or another.

Austin

[austinado16]

Remember that the camper must be perfectly level both side-to-side and front-to-rear in order for the fridge to work.  This is a big deal because there is no mechanical "pump" so the amonia other chemicals have to move around and create cooling by themselves and the heat generated in the boiler/burner.  Operating it out of level will not only keep it from working, it will damage the fridge inside as the chemicals get trapped in certain locations and cause crystals to form blocking important passages.

If your fridge had the 120v option, there would be a big extention chord inside the access panel for the fridge, there on the side of the trailer.  Plus, inside that access panel, you'd find a switch and instructions about placing the switch in 120v mode, etc.

So, it's as Austin says:  light it on propane the day before you go camping to let it get cooking and make good cold.  Then put your cold food in cold on the morning you leave, turn off the propane, switch it to 12v and drive to your destination.  Once you've arrived and have leveled the camper fully, fire it back up on propane.

BBQ lighters make good fridge lighters I think because you don't have to rely on the spark ignitor and the right mixture of air/propane for that initial light.....especially after putting on a newly filled propane tank, or having the propane system opened up.   Just lift the little flame viewing door, stick the BBQ ignitor in there, turn on the gas, hold down the spring loaded safety valve a light the BBQ lighter.  In a few seconds the fridge burner will light and you should have a flame like this.......

[AustinBoston]

Excellent post, austinado16, except this minor point:

Remember that the camper must be perfectly level both side-to-side and front-to-rear in order for the fridge to work.

I think "perfectly level" is a bit of an exaggeration.  While ngruener's fridge is probably more sensitive because it is older, our fridge is "in spec" if the pop-up is within 4" side-to-side and 11" front-to back - a long way from "perfectly level."  Where a people get into trouble is during storage.  They plan on leaving this weekend, go out and turn on the fridge, and forget that they cranked the nose down to help rain to drain off, or park it on a slope because it's the only place available...

Also, the fridge will operate if out-of-level, but it will gradually be damaged by it.  The damage is permanent and can not be repaired.

The out-of-level damage does not occur while driving because the vibration, bumps, turns, etc. insure that the materials that would otherwise be trapped still flow back to the appropriate places.

Now, if someone can come up with a simple explanation of how things get cooled by fire, I'm all ears...

Austin

[ngruener]

Thanks for your helpful advice.  I have now found out that we have a 2-way so the 120v is not an option.  At this point, we only have the propane option because the camper did not come with the battery system hooked up.
I am sure this is just the beginning of my questions.  Thanks!

[austinado16]

When I was getting my fridge back in operating condition, the info that I found stated they needed to be "half a bubble" or better.  Since cooling is all about how the ammonia and hydrogen heat, become gas, expand, create cold, condense, etc.  Since there's no pump and damage is possible if they pool up, I'm sticking with level operation only.

I don't think you'll have any trouble getting the 12v system up and working.  You may even find that the power wires for the fridge are then, coming down through the floor, along the trailer frame, and then pop into the battery area/box.  Just make sure your tow vehicle is set up to be feeding your camper battery 12v while you're driving.

[AustinBoston]

When I was getting my fridge back in operating condition, the info that I found stated they needed to be "half a bubble" or better.

I can believe that, but "half bubble" can mean a lot of different things to different levels.  I'd bet I have a carpenter's level in my garage that would be off by at least an inch (in 3 feet) at a half bubble.  That's over 2" side-to-side when scaled to the pop-up.  Newer fridges don't need to be that close.

The level I use for the pop-up would be within an inch at a half-bubble.

Austin

[ngruener]

When I was getting my fridge back in operating condition, the info that I found stated they needed to be "half a bubble" or better.  Since cooling is all about how the ammonia and hydrogen heat, become gas, expand, create cold, condense, etc.  Since there's no pump and damage is possible if they pool up, I'm sticking with level operation only.

I don't think you'll have any trouble getting the 12v system up and working.  You may even find that the power wires for the fridge are then, coming down through the floor, along the trailer frame, and then pop into the battery area/box.  Just make sure your tow vehicle is set up to be feeding your camper battery 12v while you're driving.

Is the battery supposed to be hooked up by the propane tank on the front of the trailer?

[austinado16]

Contact the parts dept. at StarcraftRV  260-593-2550 and order an owner's manual and any other literature they might have for your model. That'll be really handy.

I don't know your specific model so I can't offer any advice really.  My battery is located under one of the dinette seats, but mine is an '87. You might check under your seats or in other storage areas to see if there's a battery box, or at least the group of wiring.  (white is generally ground and colors are the power wires)  If there's room out on the tongue, you can place a battery box out there and have it sit next to the propane tank.

Less is more, so do some investigation first, and then decide on a plan of attack.