Converter Fried?

[mxhay]

Was enjoying Sleeping Bear Dunes last week and lost all power. Converter made strange noise prior to losing power. Area around circuit breakers was hot . Fuses were fine. Was running a ceramic heater that we've used many times before. We have a 2002 Coleman with a Centurion Cs 2000. Dealer says $350. Seems steep. Searched forum and found wfco converter from bestconverter.com for $109.50. How hard is it to DIY and how certain should I be that the converter is the only problem?

[AustinBoston]

Was enjoying Sleeping Bear Dunes last week and lost all power. Converter made strange noise prior to losing power. Area around circuit breakers was hot . Fuses were fine. Was running a ceramic heater that we've used many times before. We have a 2002 Coleman with a Centurion Cs 2000. Dealer says $350. Seems steep. Searched forum and found wfco converter from bestconverter.com for $109.50.

I have one that is about four years old.  Replaced a stock converter when it died.  I was over a barrel, because we were living in the camper, so I could not go mail order.  I paid a dealer twice that for a 25 amp WFCO.  I think the original was a WFCO; the footprint/outline and connections (even the type of 120V breakers) were the same.

How hard is it to DIY

I think I spent about two hours doing this replacement, but I did significant other wiring work (split up one of the exisiting circuits into two circuits) at the same time.  IIRC, it is much more of a cramped job than a complicated one.  You will need basic wiring skills (it's more complicated than replacing a home light switch, but not by much).  If the Centurion is a different outline/footprint, you may need to do a little panel cutting in very thin plywood.  Overall I'd call it an easy DIY job.

and how certain should I be that the converter is the only problem?

If you examine the wires that lead into or connect to the converter, look for significant yellowing (on white wires) or insulation (covering) that looks "charred".  Those wires should be replaced (or, if it's just the very end, cut off the end and re-strip the wire).  Just make sure you have enough slack to make all connections.

Austin

[wavery]

You may want to check the main fuse in the back of the converter.

We never plug our electric heater or our AC into our camper. I run a separate 12g extension cord. I know that they are "supposed" to be able to handle it but I've heard this story before.

[AustinBoston]

You may want to check the main fuse in the back of the converter.

We never plug our electric heater or our AC into our camper. I run a separate 12g extension cord. I know that they are "supposed" to be able to handle it but I've heard this story before.

The wiring I saw was standard (not an excellent job, but would have passed inspection for home wiring).  The 30 amp cord is 10 gauge.  I'd plug the heater into the camper before using an extension cord.

To OP:

After thinking more about it, you might try just replacing the circuit breakers and checking on the wiring (making sure it isn't overheated or burned).  If the electronics of the converter failed, you should still have had 120V, at least in some outlets.

Is it possible you tripped the breaker on the campground's power post?  That would kill everything...

Austin

[mxhay]

I did check the post and the breaker was fine. I'll have to pull the unit out to check for any other fuses in the back. Thanks for the responses.

[wavery]

I did check the post and the breaker was fine. I'll have to pull the unit out to check for any other fuses in the back. Thanks for the responses.

AB had a good point. You may just have a bad circuit breaker. That could be why the whole converter got hot. The circuit breaker could have corrosion inside. That would cause it to overheat but not necessarily trip.  

I have found that they tend to use very poor quality wiring in these PUs. That's why I prefer to run my electric heater on a separate extension cord.