how to properly stabilize a tent trailer

[Jaxx]

I have searched all over and can't find out how to properly stabilize my new pu. I used to have an old venture and we would put the stabilizers down on the back and jack stands on the front to get the little 8" tires off the ground. That eliminated all the jiggling while in the trailer. Now that I have a new trailer I have read not to do that exact thing. So my question is: How do you stabilize your trailer? Do you jack up the trailer at all so some of the weight is on the stabilizer? Do I just have to deal with the wiggling from the trailer being on the tires? When the trailer is leveled do you then jack it up and pull the stabilizers down a notch to get some of the weight on them?

[Jaxx]

Sorry, It's a 96 Coleman Cheyenne with folding stabilizers

[wavery]

I have searched all over and can't find out how to properly stabilize my new pu. I used to have an old venture and we would put the stabilizers down on the back and jack stands on the front to get the little 8" tires off the ground. That eliminated all the jiggling while in the trailer. Now that I have a new trailer I have read not to do that exact thing. So my question is: How do you stabilize your trailer? Do you jack up the trailer at all so some of the weight is on the stabilizer? Do I just have to deal with the wiggling from the trailer being on the tires? When the trailer is leveled do you then jack it up and pull the stabilizers down a notch to get some of the weight on them?

This is the way that I do it:

1. Block tires un-hitch trailer and level side-to-side by putting spacers under the low side tire.
2. Level trailer fore & aft with tongue jack.
3. Drop "Supports" to the ground without putting any weight on them.
4. Raise roof.
5. Put a small amount of weight on the "Supports".
6. Complete set-up.

Now....this may start a lot of controversy about exactly when to drop supports. Follow the advise of your Owner's Manual.

The main thing is, never put a lot of weight on the supports. They are not "levelers" or "jacks"....they are "supports" only. It just isn't necessary and it may cause damage. There is NO upside to lifting the axle. The weight of the axle may cause undue stress to the frame.

I believe that the reason that some manufacturers say NOT to lower supports before raising roof is because there is a strong possibility of putting more weight on one support than the other. This could put the trailer bed slightly out of level/square and cause binding on the roof supports as one or 2 may not come up perfectly straight and square with the other roof supports.

The ideal situation is for all 4 of the corner roof supports to come up perfectly level and square with all of the other supports as the roof is being raised. That avoids any binding and undue stress on the entire lifting system. If 1 roof support is not inline with the others, the binding can be tremendous and eventually break that cable or do other damage.

[Jaxx]

I was hoping you would post. I love reading your responses because you are so detailed. That helps a ton. Now I know why the old trailer door always fit kindof wierd. haha

[brainpause]

I agree with Wayne's post with one significant exception:

I do not unhitch until I am leveled side to side, because it usually involves putting down a layer of Lynx Levelers (or other side to side method) under the wheels, and I can easily just pull the trailer with TV onto the Lynxes.

THEN I unhitch and level front to back with the front jack.

Larry

[tlhdoc]

I agree with Wayne's post with one significant exception:
 
I do not unhitch until I am leveled side to side, because it usually involves putting down a layer of Lynx Levelers (or other side to side method) under the wheels, and I can easily just pull the trailer with TV onto the Lynxes.
 
THEN I unhitch and level front to back with the front jack.
 
Larry

Unless you are using a BAL leveler OR you are very, very strong, don't unhitch until you have the trailer on leveling blocks.  Also you don't need to put the jacks most of the way down to the ground before raising the roof.  Just remember to put them down before you go into the rear of the camper.

[wavery]

That's why I made #1 all inclusive and didn't break it into 3 steps.   . It all depends on your leveling system.

As I stated......"This is the way that I do it". I have a Bal Leveler.  :sombraro:

[brainpause]

Just remember to put them down before you go into the rear of the camper.

She speaks the truth! Don't ask me how I know!



Larry

[campfireguy]

thats a good question. and i agree with all tips. i even learned something. i have an older rockwood and has only two stabilizers and one don't work. i also don't like all the wiggle but putting lift on the box isn't helping it stay in square. i have a set of 4 screw jacks that i use. when it's up and level i put the jacks at the corners and just snug them up to the frame. hope this helps.

[ScouterMom]

I do it the same way - park it - level side to side, then unhitch, level front to back, then up with the roof, down with the stabilizers, out with the beds.  ( I use the very sophisticated 'board' method of side leveling - a number of various thickness hardwood scraps under the wheels - the unused ones go under the stabilizer feet, to spread their weight so they don't 'sink' into the often sandy parking spots in many Wisconsin campgrounds)

reverse for packing up - once the inside gear is stowed, fold in the beds in, put the stabilizers up, lower the roof, hook up.

my smaller 1976 Starcraft had stabilizer legs on all four corners, but my larger '73 starcraft (box is twice the size of the '76) has stabilizer legs on the rear only.  We are big people - even my skinny son is still over 6' tall and this makes for quite a bit of 'bounce' - especially when getting in and out of the beds!   so we put jack stands under the front frame, just to provide more stability- but the weight is still on the tires.

When storing the camper, I also put down the stabilizer legs and jack stands - just to ease some of the weight on the tires - esp if they are going to sit in one place all winter.  But I don't 'lift' the camper off the tires.

If you use jack stands, and don't have them yet - I would highly recommend the screw-type. much easier to fine-tune the adjustment than the kind I have.  I would also recommend a small hydraulic jack- I have a tiny one I bought years ago for the little camper.  I have a bad back, and this little jack is no bigger than an insulated coffee mug, and can lift 2500 lbs!  I don't need it often, but when I do - it sure beats trying to muscle things up and down!

Laura

[PattieAM]

Once I've backed into my site:

1.   Level camper side-to-side (using bubble level) - use lynx blocks or lumber on the 'low side' pulling the camper or backing the camper onto blocks or lumber until it is level.

2.   CHOCK wheels - both wheels, in front and behind (I have a rubber mallet to help make good solid contact).

3.   Disconnect from tow vehicle

4.   Level front-to-rear using tongue jack.

**
5.   Raise roof

6.   Lower stabilizers until firm on the ground (your owners manual should tell you this).  Do not use stabilizers as jacks.

You mentioned having a Fleetwood/Coleman, and from all I've read they request you raise the roof before lowering the stabilizers.  Other manufacturers may differ.

The wheel chocks play a very important part in the stabilization of your camper, and you will get less 'wiggle' if the wheels are firmly chocked.

Hope this info helps.

[Jaxx]

Awesome, thanks guys! That helps me out a ton. I did read the manual before I posted the thread and was left with a few questions. You guys answered them all for me. I think my next investment will be a bal leveler.

[fallsrider]

I alter one part of the setup procedure only because of the stabilizers I have. I have the Atwood fold-down stabilizers, and I have occasionally encountered a problem lowering them on a sloped site if I level front-to-back before I lower them. So, after leveling side-to-side, then unhitching, I fold down the stabilizers without sliding the extension down to the ground. Sometimes it is necessary to raise/lower the tongue to get one or two stabilizers to fold down because of a sloped site. Then I level front-to-back and follow the procedures others have outlined above.

[Micksc]

I've got a Coleman Cheyenne with a wheel on the tongue jack. With main wheels chockked the nose of the PUP wanted to kick around some when disconnecting from the TV. I found a "dock chock" at Wallyworld for less than $5.00. It's like a donut to set the tongue wheel in, and eliminates any pitching around.  
                                     Mick