Hi - Newbie has some questions

[jk007]

Just joined yesterday.  I wanted to introduce myself and I have a few questions about the 96 Coleman Fleetwood I just picked up.  Hoping you guys can help me out.

Father or 2, married 5 years and lookin to get some camping in this summer.  This site was recommended to me off of f150online.  Here's a few pics of the Coleman if anyone wants to see it.  I paid $300 for it. :yikes:  No BS.  It had some mice damage and the couple I bought it off of didn't want to deal with it anymore.  There's some family pics in there and pics of my old truck.

http://www.f150online.com/galleries/albumview.cfm?num=12673  

Now that I have bored everyone to death.  Here's a couple of questions for ya?

I just read a post about electric brakes and wheel bearings: I just regreased the bearings a couple of days ago.  I am sure that I put the same ones back on the same side, but if I did mix them up by chance, am I in trouble?

Electric brakes - Do you think they are a necessity or can I get by without them?  

Lastly, the water pump.  This was the only thing that was wrong with the camper really.  I am debating whether to replace it or just leave it for now.  Is there any advantages to replacing it that a husband and wife with a 3 year old and 1 year old wouldn't think of?

[wavery]

Just joined yesterday.  I wanted to introduce myself and I have a few questions about the 96 Coleman Fleetwood I just picked up.  Hoping you guys can help me out.

Father or 2, married 5 years and lookin to get some camping in this summer.  This site was recommended to me off of f150online.  Here's a few pics of the Coleman if anyone wants to see it.  I paid $300 for it. :yikes:  No BS.  It had some mice damage and the couple I bought it off of didn't want to deal with it anymore.  There's some family pics in there and pics of my old truck.

http://www.f150online.com/galleries/albumview.cfm?num=12673  

Now that I have bored everyone to death.  Here's a couple of questions for ya?

I just read a post about electric brakes and wheel bearings: I just regreased the bearings a couple of days ago.  I am sure that I put the same ones back on the same side, but if I did mix them up by chance, am I in trouble?

Electric brakes - Do you think they are a necessity or can I get by without them?  

Lastly, the water pump.  This was the only thing that was wrong with the camper really.  I am debating whether to replace it or just leave it for now.  Is there any advantages to replacing it that a husband and wife with a 3 year old and 1 year old wouldn't think of?

I couldn't help notice (in your pics) that you didn't have the center brace over the bunks (Shepard's Hook) installed. Do you have them?

Check your State law to see if brakes are required. Does your trailer not have brakes? It is better to have them. They will cut the wear & Tear on your TV brakes and decrease your stopping distance.

It is important to replace the bearing in the same race that it came from because they develop a wear pattern. If you mixed them up, the wear pattern will be all screwed up and the bearings may (and probably will) overheat.

One more tip......always replace the cotter pin.

I'd pull the old W/P out and clean the filter. They don't often burn out. Could be a bad fuse or (more common) a bad ground.

Looks like you got a great deal on the PU...Can't hardly go wrong at that price.


WELCOME TO PUT!!!!!

[jk007]

Thanks for the info.  Yes, I have the Shepard's Hook braces, we just didn't put them on when we were snapping the pics.  

The trailer has electric brakes but I don't think my truck does.  It may but this is the first trailer I'll be pulling with electric brakes on it.  Everything else I pulled before didn't have them on the trailer, so that's why I asked.  I'd have to put them on the truck, maybe...

Man, I hope I'm not screwed on the bearings.  I hear ya on the wearing.  Would it make a difference if I said the PUP didn't have a lot of miles on it?  I think it may have been used 4 times at most.  It still had the original tires on it from 96, and lots of tread.  I guess what I mean is, how long does it take the bearings to wear into place?  I didn't replace the cotter pins either.  Then again, I can say with certainty that this thing just sat for a # of years.  The pins were in really good shape.  But, my family's safety comes first. Should I just buy new bearings and pins and redo everything again?

I couldn't help notice (in your pics) that you didn't have the center brace over the bunks (Shepard's Hook) installed. Do you have them?

Check your State law to see if brakes are required. Does your trailer not have brakes? It is better to have them. They will cut the wear & Tear on your TV brakes and decrease your stopping distance.

It is important to replace the bearing in the same race that it came from because they develop a wear pattern. If you mixed them up, the wear pattern will be all screwed up and the bearings may (and probably will) overheat.

One more tip......always replace the cotter pin.

I'd pull the old W/P out and clean the filter. They don't often burn out. Could be a bad fuse or (more common) a bad ground.

Looks like you got a great deal on the PU...Can't hardly go wrong at that price.


WELCOME TO PUT!!!!!

[naganthunter]

You got a nice deal on that PUP!!

If you end up not liking it, you can turn around and sell it for a lot more than you paid!

I'd say go and get the brakes hooked up.  They are worth it if you do any towing in hilly or mountainous terrain.

As for the H20 pump, if you plan on camping where there are hookups, chances are you will not need it.  If you don't have hookups, you won't have any water.  It is nice to be able to wash your hands and stuff inside the camper.

The pump should be easy to replace, and not too expensive....

Again, congrats on a great deal, and welcome to your new addiction!   :sombraro:

[flyfisherman]

Well, if nothing more ... welcome aboard!

I had a '96 Coleman/Fleetwood "Yukon" model; believe it was a tad smaller than yours. It was a 10' box with the storage trunk in front. Let me say that thing was out of swack balance wise. It was tongue light, even when (and especially) when empty. Swaying was a way of life with that Yukon, but I did learn to load the thing to compensate for the light tongue. If there was ever a popup that needed brakes, mine fit that bill. Not only to help with the stopping, which is always an important issue when towing ... afterall, that's probably going to be a ton and a half plus (when you get loaded) helping to push that truck of yours right along, especially when you have to stop in a hurry! Then there's that dilemma of trailer sway some popup combinations are so prone to do at the darndest times. Here you could just flick the trailer brake controll lever and a little trailer brake (seperate from the tow vehicle brakes) will straighten out a swaying trailer. If the trailer has brakes already, it's a most excellent idea to put them to good use. However, there is one other point about trailer brakes; they are only as good as they are set-up and maintained. Better to not have trailer brakes then to think you have them when if fact they don't work!

But $300.00 bucks is a great deal ... enjoy!



Fly

[wavery]

Thanks for the info.  Yes, I have the Shepard's Hook braces, we just didn't put them on when we were snapping the pics.  

The trailer has electric brakes but I don't think my truck does.  It may but this is the first trailer I'll be pulling with electric brakes on it.  Everything else I pulled before didn't have them on the trailer, so that's why I asked.  I'd have to put them on the truck, maybe...

Man, I hope I'm not screwed on the bearings.  I hear ya on the wearing.  Would it make a difference if I said the PUP didn't have a lot of miles on it?  I think it may have been used 4 times at most.  It still had the original tires on it from 96, and lots of tread.  I guess what I mean is, how long does it take the bearings to wear into place?  I didn't replace the cotter pins either.  Then again, I can say with certainty that this thing just sat for a # of years.  The pins were in really good shape.  But, my family's safety comes first. Should I just buy new bearings and pins and redo everything again?

Lack of use is not necessarily a bonus on a trailer.

When you had the bearings out, did you check the races real good for tiny pits (with a magnifying glass)? A trailer that sits for a long time can cause rust & pits to form on the bearings because of a lack of lubrication. As the weight of the trailer presses down on one tiny spot on the bottom of the bearings, it will eventually displace all of the grease and end up with metal-to-metal contact. After awhile, it will actually weld itself in place. Not enough that you would ever notice but enough to cause a pit or scare.

Trailer tires seldom wear out. They die of old age. Recommended is about 3-5 years max on a trailer that is used regularly, 2-3 years on a trailer that just sits. If those tires are 12 years old, I would strongly consider replacing them, if it were my trailer.

As for brakes.....all you need is a "brake controller" for your pick-up, if the trailer has brakes. They are around $100 bucks and pretty easy to install. Most people here use the "Prodigy" brake controller. Here is one on eBay but a lot of places sell them:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TEKONSHA-90185-PRODIGY-TRAILER-BRAKE-CONTROLLER-NIB_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33570QQihZ009QQitemZ190217441137QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

[ScouterMom]

you got quite a deal on that Camper!  

Your kids are going to LOVE you forever for getting your family into such a great experience - spending the kind of quality time with them you'll get by camping with them is a priceless gift!

With young kids, you will probably load up the camper with a ton of gear - so it's probably a good idea to spend some of the $$ you saved buying the camper on the hookup for electric brakes. Wavery is right - most camper tires die of dry rot rather than wear - they just don't ever get much milage - which is why folks with those big rigs, or even less expensive ones will get tire covers to keep the UV rays from them if they sit in the sun for long.

I've been camping with my son since he was 2.  the only advantage to having the water pump working is if you plan to 'dry camp' with no hookups available Or if you plan on using the bathroom facilities built into your camper instead of the public bathrooms/showers in the campgrounds. (does it have a shower? toilet?) if those are dependant on the  water pump and you plan to use them - then fix it.  Personally, I prefer NOT having to deal with maintaining those utilities, and have always found the campground facilities adequate for us.  Most campgrounds, even in the state parks we prefer, have water/ electric sites, or water close by, and decently clean and maintained bathrooms, so we've never actually hooked water up to our campers.

The one thing it might be handy for, with toddlers especially, is being able to bathe them 'at home' in their own camper.  However, they are young enough that you can start training them this summer to get used to staying close to mom or dad in the shower house, or doing wash-ups in a dishpan.  One thing wish I had on my camper) is  a hook up for an 'outside shower' - a handheld sprayer nozzle that can be set up in an outside shower tent, but I'd use it more for washing off sandy or dirty feet before bed. We can usually do the same thing with a garden hose and spray attachment to the site hookup and bypass the camper - except that it's always cold water - no heat.

The only problem I see with your camper might be that roof rack - just make sure it's sealed well.  Coleman's have a history of roof problems (and your's looks fine) but putting holes in a camper roof is not usually a good idea.  Your's looks like a commercial rack and was probably professionally installed - but to forgo any problems, I would look it over carefully and keep an eye on it.  

With two little ones, you will find the rack really handy for trikes, bikes, and you might want to look into a burley-type bike trailer with a 1 and 3 yr old!  When my son was little, my burley was much more comfortable for him than a bike seat and easier on me, too.  They can also stow a great deal of gear -a small cooler with drinks, a blanket, diapers, snacks, etc. that bike seats &  a handlebar bag can't.  Bikes are a great way to get around in a campground with kids who can't walk far and want to be carried - most bike trailers can also double as large wheel strollers, great for rough terrain.

Welcome to the site and hope to see you in the campgrounds this summer!

Laura

[jk007]

Thanks to all that replied.  I really appreciate the advice.  The only water facility in the camper is the sink, no shower or toilet.  The sink does allow me to use the hand pump and draws water from the fresh water tank.  So, if I can get water from the tank by manually pumping it if there is no exterior hook up, I probably don't need to rush to fix the water pump.  I just didn't know if I was missing another purpose for it.

I had an 83 Palomino last summer that basically fell apart, so we got rid of it.  We've been camping about 10 times with the family already, just not in this camper yet.  

My TV does have electric brakes, so it only makes sense to get "brake controller".

I will throw a new set of tires on it also.  they didn't look dry rotted at all but if I can reduce my chances of a flat, then I'm all for it.  Besides, my uncle owns a tire shop. :-()

How about those Bearings though?  Any thoughts?  Again, I repacked them and I am 99% sure I put them back on the same axles, but there is a slim chance I switched them.  Would you guys just replace them with new ones or leave it be?  They looked to be in really good shape, but you guys are the experts.  Any idea what a new set would run?

Thanks again everyone for being so helpful.

[mach8274]

As for your bearings, I would leave them for now. Just take the pup on a "test run" on a highway (not interstate) for about 10 miles and then pull over and feel the trailer hubs. They will be warm to the touch, not hot. If you can't hold your hand on the hub for more than 10 seconds, they are too tight.

As for your brakes, your truck has a brake controller connector under the dash. I have the same truck as you do. If you sit in the truck as if you were driving it, the little cubby hole in front of your right knee, the connector is behind that. Just look up under the dash and you'll see it. I think it is gray in color. Your truck should have come with a pigtail harness that you would hook up to your controller, then just plug it in and mount it. You should not have to do anything out back as you should have a 7 pin trailer connector there. Everything you need to know about how and where to hook up the controller is in the owners manual for the truck.

Good luck and happy camping!!

Great find on the pup also!!

Dave

[mach8274]

By the way, I'm also a member of F150online.com
It is a great website.

Dave

[jk007]

By the way, I'm also a member of F150online.com
It is a great website.

Dave

Awesome.  Thanks for the help Mach.  Exactly what I was looking for.  If I spend as much time on this forum as I do that one, then I am in some serious trouble.  Appreciate it buddy.

[austinado16]

Welcome and nice score on the big camper!!!  Right on!

Regarding your bearings; jack up each camper wheel one at a time and spin the wheel.  The wheel should roll smooth and you shouldn't hear the bearings rumble. The other test (for bearing tightness) is to grab the tire at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock and try to rock the wheel by pulling with one hand and at the same time pushing with the other.  There should just be the slightest amount of movement.  If there's a lot of rocking, or no play at all, you might want to reset the bearing tension.  Barely any play, to just about "no play" is good.

Bearings and seals are cheap though.  Places like NAPA auto parts will carry them, or can get them, and the grease seals.  You'll need a drift and hammer to knock out the races.....should you ever dig into replacing them.

Before you get into any big trips, you might ask on your 150 forum about towing something this big, and whether or not you need to install a transmission cooler, or go to a bigger cooler, and/or a big cast aluminum finned trans pan that holds more ATF, what ATF to run (synthetic?), tow in overdrive, etc.  Be a shame to get out there in your $300 camper and burn up a $3,000 transmission!

I'm running the big B&M finned cast aluminum trans pan, mechanical trans temp gauge, and a huge external trans cooler out in front of the radiator, and even then I had the trans temp spike to 235F for about 10min last summer while climbing a grade behind a big rig.  Turned out my radiator fan clutch wasn't hooking up at tempurature.....so now I've got a new fan clutch!

Anyway, enought story telling......enjoy that camper!

[harleywolf]

Welcome to the site!

Wavery speaks absolute true about the bearings and personally I

[mach8274]

Before you get into any big trips, you might ask on your 150 forum about towing something this big, and whether or not you need to install a transmission cooler, or go to a bigger cooler, and/or a big cast aluminum finned trans pan that holds more ATF, what ATF to run (synthetic?), tow in overdrive, etc.  Be a shame to get out there in your $300 camper and burn up a $3,000 transmission!!

About the towing capacity of that truck. It is 6500 pounds, plenty for that pup. If it has a factory tow package then the trans cooler, power steering cooler and engine oil cooler are already installed. My pup weighs in at about 2500 pounds loaded and my trans temp gauge, which I installed just to keep an eye on it, never gets above about 200 degrees which leaves plenty of wiggle room. That includes mountain towing in North Carolina.
If the trans starts to "hunt" for gears, in and out of overdrive, then I turn overdrive off. Otherwise I leave it on.

As for the fluid, If you've been getting your truck serviced at a Ford dealer then you already have synthetic trans fluid in it. That's what Ford uses in their tansmissions. They have since about 1998. The fluid is Mercon V.

To sum it all up, your set up is perfect. I wouldn't change a single thing. My truck does a great job pulling the pup and your's will too. By the way, I'm not just pulling this stuff out of thin air, I was a master tech at a large Ford dealer for 6 years. I'm still a tech but for a Lexus dealer and still have many friends down at Ford to keep me up to date on everything.

Good luck.

Dave

[jk007]

Man you guys rock.  Thanks for the bearing advice.  I'll make sure everything's good before we head out.  The wife and I booked our first trip June 6th.  We're leaving the kids and taking the dogs.  Should be fun, we haven't taken the dogs camping yet.  And with the wife plus no kids to worry about for the entire weekend, well  :-() is about all you can say.

-Mach, sounds like you know your way around an f150.  I've pulled heavier trailers before with mine and never had an issue.  I have the FX4 package and factory tow package.  It's a Lariat.   The other trailers though never had electric brakes.  Trans shifts great, plus I run the EDGE on the tow tune.  I shouldn't have any issues.  It's the older EDGE though without the guage display.  I'm not worried about it though.  Thanks for all your help.