Just got a used Coleman Mach AC and have some ?s

[MCSEDanny]

OK so after avoiding camping during the summer months outside the mountains we finally bought a used AC unit.  I wanted new, had the money for new but with the price on this unit, the condition of this unit and the unknown if we will still be in a popup over a TT by the end of the year lead me to buy this used unit.

Some interesting facts about the purchase before I ask my questions.  I live in Canton GA.  The unit was purchased by my family in Jax FL.  We plan to install the unit while camping at Myrtle Beach over 4th of July.  I plan to cut the single ABS plastic coleman lid before leaving and attaching a vent window for the trip.

So the unit was "hard wired in" on the previous pop up and when he removed the unit he cut the power cord about 2 ft off the unit.  Is there a special power cord or is it just standard romex?  Can anyone tell me where or what kind of circuit breaker I need?  I'm sure this will bring on a lot of questions about my power unit but maybe not.  Does anyone have a link for a DIY or pics of how they ran the power cord over and down there pop up?

I think that's it for now.  Thanks for your time.



2001 Coleman Utah

[Tim5055]

No romex, it usually uses a long appliance cord.

The breaker should already be in your pop up.  One of the AC receptacle inside will be a 20a receptacle, this is where the AC plugs in.  It will already be controlled by one of the breakers in the converter housing.

SEE PHOTO OF 20a RECEPTACLE

So, you will install the unit and run the cord across the ceiling to the side, hiding it behind the drapery valance (coiled up) above said 20a plug..  When you need to use the AC, uncoil the cord and plug it in.   Good to go....

[wavery]

No romex, it usually uses a long appliance cord.

The breaker should already be in your pop up.  One of the AC receptacle inside will be a 20a receptacle, this is where the AC plugs in.  It will already be controlled by one of the breakers in the converter housing.

SEE PHOTO OF 20a RECEPTACLE

So, you will install the unit and run the cord across the ceiling to the side, hiding it behind the drapery valance (coiled up) above said 20a plug..  When you need to use the AC, uncoil the cord and plug it in.   Good to go....

Tim's correct. I would just add one thing. Try to avoid splicing in a cord. It would be best to replace the entire cord back to where it's connected inside the AC unit. You could simply purchase a 12g, 3-strand HD extension cord from HomeDepot, cut off the end then solder the wires into the connections in the AC unit.  

Splices tend to corrode over time, build up resistance and cause all sorts of problems, from low voltage to the compressor to fires.

[Tim5055]

I would just add one thing. Try to avoid splicing in a cord. It would be best to replace the entire cord back to where it's connected inside the AC unit.

Oops,  good catch Wayne, I missed the possibility of splicing...

[MCSEDanny]

Awesome I love the fact I get to solder.  I look for any reason to solder, its probably one of my favorite things to do.

Ok so I don't want to direct wire the unit into the converter?  I thought you would want the AC on its own circuit to split up some of the load.  It just seems odd to run everything off the single circuit breaker in the converter box.

Does everyone that had the AC factor/dealer installed plug there unit it and only have one breaker on there converter/fuse box?


Again thanks so much for everybody's help.

[wavery]

Awesome I love the fact I get to solder.  I look for any reason to solder, its probably one of my favorite things to do.

Ok so I don't want to direct wire the unit into the converter?  I thought you would want the AC on its own circuit to split up some of the load.  It just seems odd to run everything off the single circuit breaker in the converter box.

Does everyone that had the AC factor/dealer installed plug there unit it and only have one breaker on there converter/fuse box?


Again thanks so much for everybody's help.

Some of the Coleman PUs come with a 2nd circuit breaker (20A) already installed in the converter with wiring and 20A outlet already installed in the wall. If yours doesn't have that, you may want to install it.

Another option would be to simply have a longer (12G HD) extension cord so that you can plug directly into the electrical box at the CG or to your generator. That option may be a bit more cumbersome but it would certainly be cheaper, easier and place less of a load on you converter and wiring when running the AC and other appliances at the same time.

[hoppy]

Your 2001 Utah is already prewired, ceiling braced for the weight of the unit, and has a 20-amp recepticle on one wall. There are two seperate AC amp lines coming out of your "Centurion 2000" converter. One recepticle is a 15-amp line, the other is a slotted blade 20-amp recepticle used for the A/C or electric heater.
 I own a 2001 Mesa, and it was A/C ready directly from the factory. This is a dealer installed option, so it is pretty much ready for the installation of the unit.
Just locate the slotted recepticle as shown in the Tim5055 atachment.

 As others have stated, do not splice in to the exhisting cord. Direct wire it to the A/C unit, (you can run the line cord through the ceiling brace to hide the cord up in the roof section) and attach a bladed plug to the end of it. Keep the wiring to a minimum, and just enough to reach the 20-amp recepticle.

  There should be four plugs up there in the ABS roof that are used as a template to locate and size the cutout needed for the unit. Don't forget to pick up the gasket kit from PECO in Tucker, GA. They can also give you good advise in regards to the installation and the tools you will need.

 Good luck with the installation, and you will be happy you added the A/C down here in GA. We couldn't stand camping during the summer without it.