Leveler Jacks

[surffishjimmy]

I am getting mixed answers on how to best use the leveler jacks on my PUP.   I bought the PUP 101 video and they say not to put them down before the roof is raised.  The manufactured told me to put all 4 down before the roof is raised because that will keep the PUP level.  What is correct, what works best for you?

[01YZF6]

I know with Coleman's they do NOT want you stabilizing then raising becuase it can twist the frame over time.   I always level the PuP, raise the roof, stabilize, then finish setup...

[Hoagie]

There is an important distinction to be made here.
They are not "leveling jacks." They are "stabilizer jacks." They are designed to stabilize your trailer and keep it from rocking and swaying when you walk in it once set up.
You want to level using wood blocks, "lego levelors, air bags, BAL levelor or whatever.
Whether you stabilize then raise the roof or raise the roof then stabilize....follow your manufacturer's written set up instructions to avoid damaging the frame.

[flyfisherman]

Evidently during the period my Sratcraft was built there were two types of stabilizer jack systems used. The accompanying owner's manual shows a demonstration photo of using one type (just like I had on my previous '96 Coleman), where you have to drop the jack down from it's fold-up position and then use the jack handle to extend or release the jack. But on my 1706 unit it uses the BAL crank stabilizers, just like this ~

http://www.sportsmansguide.com/net/cb/cb.aspx?a=266882

Perhaps they used one type on their larger units and the other on the smaller.

Anyway, to quote the Starcraft manual, it says ... "DO NOT raise or lower the roof with the stabilizer jacks set. The jacks may induce some twist inthe frame which could throw off the lifter temporarily out of alignment as long as the jacks are set. Raising or lowering the roof under these conditions could cause damage to the lifter syatem. (and then it adds a little parting reminder) REMEMBER: The stabilizer jacks should not be used to level the camper."

I wish that I could say this camping genius never "forgot" about those stabilizes being in the proper position when I was closing down (and who knows, maybe I even put them down first before raising the roof?) ... anyway, all seems to still be in operating order.




Fly

[mn_guy]

This is great clarification.  I've always put the stabs down before cranking up the roof because I figured it would need more stability with that thing tetering up there.  Didn't cross my mind about tweaking the frame/lift system.  I'll have to dig in my manuals and see if Rockwood recommends one way or the other...

[coach]

I am getting mixed answers on how to best use the leveler jacks on my PUP.   I bought the PUP 101 video and they say not to put them down before the roof is raised.  The manufactured told me to put all 4 down before the roof is raised because that will keep the PUP level.  What is correct, what works best for you?

I'd go with the manufacturer!

I believe I'm lucky to have a PU that gets stabalized before cranking up. Part of the leveling/chocking to me is lower the tongue 2" below level, setting the swing down stabs (near the ground), releveling the tongue. This procedure for my PU's geometry causes the rear stabs to be snug to the ground and I don't have the rod to jack them!!! and I don't have front stabs. This of course is done before unlatching the roof and cranking.

RTFM is the best policy AFIK.

Coleman suggest stabalizing first MAY cause premature wear to the lift system, I don't think it voids their warranty!

[surffishjimmy]

I am 50/50 on what to do.   My problem with the manufacturer is that I was told why wouldn't you want to keep the stabilizer jacks down because that will keep the camper in the level position.   Maybe I should call again and ask about frame twist.   Not really sure what the best answer is.

[bonscott]

I am 50/50 on what to do.   My problem with the manufacturer is that I was told why wouldn't you want to keep the stabilizer jacks down because that will keep the camper in the level position.   Maybe I should call again and ask about frame twist.   Not really sure what the best answer is.

No matter what the stabilizer jacks will not keep the camper in a level position no matter what you do.  That's not what they do.  And raising the roof isn't going to effect how level the trailer is anyway.

Don't call and talk to someone, you'll bound to get a different answer everytime from people who just don't know.  Check your manual.  9 times out of 10 it will say to never have the jacks down when you raise or lower the roof.

[coach]

Check your manual.  9 times out of 10 it will say to never have the jacks down when you raise or lower the roof.

Checking the manual is a no brainier.
I'll disagree with the stats.

In any event, there is no setup police that monitors camp grounds and voids warranties based on setup order.

Different manufacturers have different lift systems. Some are an integral part of the frame and have warnings about stabilizer use. Folks are quick to project their setup rules/warnings on all PUs. Different brands are different.

The OP has not suggested his make/model/year. Some PU manufacturer changed lift systems (and setup instructions) over the years.

[hoppy]

What I've found that has worked well for me over the past 15 + years of PU camping and having two different style lift systems (Palomino wench style, and Coleman wiffel tree) is the following:

 1. Level the PU first from side to side.
     (Use any method of your choice: wood blocks, Lego's, BAL leveler, etc.)
 2. Level front to back of the PU using the tongue jack.
 3. Chock both tires front and back of the tires.
     (Chocking both sides of the tires helps minimize the PU from rocking once walking around the inside the PU) When using a BAL leveler, that side tire is already chocked.
 4. Bring down all the "stabilizers" making minimal contact with the ground surface. No pressure on them at all.
     (This will help minimize the amount of sway of the PU as the roof is raising) This helps keep all four lift posts level and square to each other so the weight of the roof is equal on all four posts.
 5. Lift the roof.
 6. Go back and recheck the side to side and front to back level is still acceptable, and adjust if necessary.
 7. Tighten down all the "stabilizers" until the contact is firmly on the ground.
 8. Recheck and tighten if necessary all four wheel chocks.

 I'm not saying this is "the" perfect method, but it does incorporate
 both style lift systems to a degree, and weather or not to deploy the "stabs" before or after the roof has been raised.

 Note: If you notice I have used he the word "stabilizers", and not referred to them as "Levelers"

[austinado16]

Just back from a 4 dayer and on popping down I left all 4 stabilizers down and with pressure on them.  Started cranking down and there are always a few rotations on my crank system while it switches from "up" to "down" mode.  Well, those "few rotations" came and went, and the roof suddenly let go and fell about 3+ inches with a loud KA-WANG:yikes:.........

Not cool.  

I'm guessing it was caused by having the stabs down and loaded.  I won't make that mistake again.

[ekakadams]

I've always leveled, stabilized, then raised the roof. we camp in a 94 Rockwood which we purchase new. Seems to me the lift system would work best if the camper is level?
My 2 cents (actual value 1 cent or less)
Ed