Hot water heater 2000 Coleman Niagara Elite

[guinea]

Hi Everyone,

I have a 2000 Coleman Niagara Elite pop up trailer.  I went camping a couple of weeks ago, and this time hooked up the external water supply, and I was able to use the sink, cold water only.  I did not want to mess with the hot water heater.  I have never used this before now. Now don't laugh!

My question is: doesn't the hot water heater also fill up with water when the external water supply is hooked up?  When I got home, I got to thinking that maybe there might still be water in the lines and water heater, and so I opened up 2 drain valves on the underside of the trailer (red and blue) and some water drained out.  I then opened the door on the water heater and there appears to be a drain valve.  I tried with Wd 40, and liquid wrench and a socket wrench to get it loose, but to no avail.  Please explain to me what I need to know about this system.

Glenna:eyecrazy::yikes::-():book:

[waterdoctor]

Hi Everyone,
 
My question is: doesn't the hot water heater also fill up with water when the external water supply is hooked up? When I got home, I got to thinking that maybe there might still be water in the lines and water heater, and so I opened up 2 drain valves on the underside of the trailer (red and blue) and some water drained out. I then opened the door on the water heater and there appears to be a drain valve. I tried with Wd 40, and liquid wrench and a socket wrench to get it loose, but to no avail. Please explain to me what I need to know about this system.
 
Glenna:eyecrazy::yikes::-():book:

Guinea
I've got a 2000 Coleman Mesa, so I assume I have the same water heater that you do. I'm not sure if the heater tank will fill with water unless you open one of the hot water faucet valves (sink or shower). I always open the sink valve to release air from the tank to allow water to fill it (since I'm pretty sure it's a closed system). If the "drain valve" you refered to is at the top of the water heater tank, as you're looking at it from the outside access door, there should be a lever attached to the valve. This is the pressure pop-off valve. On my water heater, this is the only 'valve' that is accessable from the access door. Of course, there are the 2 drains (which you do know about) that are under the PUP - one for the hot water side and the other for the cold water circuit. There is, on the front of the hot water heater tank, at the bottom, what looks like a big nut. This is the anode. I've read on the forums that the anode should be replaced every couple of years, if the water heater has been used, or has had water sit in it for any length of time. Since they're so inexpensive, it wouldn't be a bad idea to just replace it, as a matter of course. The anode will corrode thru electrolysis and prevent the iron tank from corroding. I understand there are different materials that the anodes are made of, so you could search thru the forums and find the posts that address that.
 
Anyway, I hope this helps you out. Hopefully, somebody with more experience than I will pipe in.
 
Steve

[guinea]

Hi Steve,

The anode that you are referring to might be what I thought was a drain valve.  It does not want to come out.  I was afraid to force it.  I was worried that I made damage the heater.  There is a pressure release lever near the top of the heater accessible from the outer door as you described.  I read the booklet, and I guess one way to check would be to turn on the hot water faucet.  I am assuming that there may not be any water in the heater.

Glenna

[waterdoctor]

Hi Glenna
You're probably right in thinking there's no water in the tank. Try opening one of the faucets as well as the drain under your PUP. If no water comes out, I think you're golden. I know that's the way mine works. As far as the anode is concerned, I haven't tried taking mine out yet, either. I'm thinking that since it's the original, the thing is probably pretty well cemented in there and it's going to take a fair amount of muscle to get it out. That and a good socket and long ratchet or breaker bar. I'll probably have to have someone hold the heater down in the front storage trunk so I don't damage any of the mounts. I think I read on one of the thread here, that you can apply plumbers putty to the threads of the anode and that will keep it so that you can replace pretty easily when the time comes.  I think the poster also advised not to use the teflon tape for that type of application.  I might be wrong, but my feeble mind recollects that. :confused: Since we're heading out for a long 5 day weekend this coming Wed AM, I'm going to wait to tackle the anode until after the 1st of the year. I seriously doubt the original owner ever replaced it, since he stated they never used the hot water heater in the 5 yrs they had it. :eyecrazy: In fact, when I serviced the wheel bearings, it was apparent that he never repacked the wheel bearings in the time he owned it, :yikes: so I don't think he ever did any routine maintenance. So, I've gone thru the rig from top bottom and checked and lubed everything. I feel confident it's real roadworthy now. :-()

Steve