RE: bal Leveler

[USNRET]

 
I am thinking about purchasing a Bal Levler but I am not sure if i want to purchase a drill to operate it.  Is the bal levler easy to operate using a socket drive?  Thanking you in advance for your assistance? []

[tlhdoc]

 USNRET
It isn t hard to crank up, it just takes a while.  If you have a drill for the PU I would go ahead and use it  for the BAL, but I wouldn t buy one just for the BAL.

[pinhi18]

 USNRET
I do not find it hard to crank up.  My DW has cranked it up also with no trouble.  No need for a drill.

[Wayfarer]

 USNRET
I do find the BAL hard to crank up...well, very time consuming and not at all easy as I am chronologically challenged and not too patient and sometimes lazy and grumpy.  I always get my convenient and everpresent stepstool and sit on it when using that ratchet wrench they supply with the BAL because it does take awhile and my knees and/or back tend to give out before the job gets done.  I use my 24V drill to raise it part of the way, but since the wheels on my Coleman Utah are ?inset? somewhat, or maybe it?s that the sides of the PU are lower, whatever, I can?t raise it all the way with the drill because as the leveler raises the ?screw? gets straighter (up and down) and therefore you can?t get the drill down on the screw.  I know this doesn?t make sense the way I?m saying it.  One of those things you just have to be there to understand.  
 
 The above scenario is from yesterday?s raising and lowering of the PU at home in my very unlevel driveway which requires a lot of lift to get things level.  Thinking back, however, to recent trips to state parks where not much lift is needed to level I have not had the problem of the drill not being workable.  (Conclusion:  Drill works fine unless you really have to crank it up a lot, then there is just not enough space.)
 
 Regardless of this sometimes problem I still wouldn?t be without my BAL []

[Ab Diver]

 USNRET
Hey, Chuck-- As you may know, I just got my BAL, and haven t had a chance to use it. So take this with a grain of salt, and if I m wrong, tell me. But what about putting a universal joint between the drill and the socket? Wouldn t that give you enough " bend"  so the drill can clear the trailer body when you need a full lift? Maybe add a short extension to the U-joint if you needed a bit more clearence. Just thinking out loud here...

[jdr]

 Wayfarer

 

ORIGINAL:  Wayfarer
 
 whatever, I can?t raise it all the way with the drill because as the leveler raises the ?screw? gets straighter (up and down) and therefore you can?t get the drill down on the screw.  I know this doesn?t make sense the way I?m saying it.  One of those things you just have to be there to understand.  
 
 

 Actually, this problem has come up in the archives a few times.  The solution is to use a universal joint between the drill and socket.  This will allow the socket to flex enough to clear the side of the camper.
 
 Just go to the sears homepage and search for " universal joint"
 
 Just remember though - I can level the camper in about 30-45 seconds, raise the roof in about 12 seconds, and lower all the stabilizers in less than a minute without one drop of sweat using my drill..  You may want to consider it now that you have the BAL leveler (which takes a lot of cranks..)

[raven339]

 USNRET
I use the Craftsman 3/4"  socket/universal-in-one combo. It works quite well...
 
 Skol...

[Trlrboy]

 USNRET
I use the ratchet that comes with the BAL leveler.  Seems to work OK for me.

[Wayfarer]

 USNRET
I?ll check out the universal joint.  Sounds like a good idea!  
 Why didn?t I think of that??[]
 
 Thanks for the info, guys.  Appreciate the input.  []