Counter Trim Repair

[Joe Gleason]

The Plastic Trim around sink is comming off...

Reffering to the Plastic on the edges of the counter it's a continous piece making a circle... Any suggestions on what to use to glue that back in place?

[MtnCamper]

The Plastic Trim around sink is comming off...

Reffering to the Plastic on the edges of the counter it's a continous piece making a circle... Any suggestions on what to use to glue that back in place?

Mine did the same thing, the dealer recommended stapling or nailing the end of it down tight. It's on the backside behind the faucet. I thought about warming the trim up with a hair drier first, just haven't gotten to it yet.

[2manytoyz]

I would use a little bit of polyurethane glue, such as Gorilla glue, in the groove, spray a little water on the trim (this glue is water cured), and reapply.  Might put in a couple of trim nails on the end of the trim to hold it taught while the glue is curing.

Be warned, poly glue expands, so a little is plenty.  It's also VERY sticky, and will seek out any exposed skin.  If it gets on your skin, it will turn black, and no amount of solvent or soap will help.  Takes a few days to wear off.  This will be a permanent fix.  

This glue is waterproof, and sticks well to most anything.  I use it a lot in woodworking, especially outdoor projects.  Available at home improvement centers.

[Poconohound]

...not sure what u mean; if its a laminate (formica/plastic)  use contact cement-available at Home Depot,Lowe's, sure at Ace hardware, etc. Brush on both surfaces 2 be attatched; keep somewhat seperated-its a glue to glue bond. Let dry a few minutes-put back in place. Cleans up with lacquer thinner. Be careful putting it back in place, as this stuff will bond wherever the glued surfaces touch (right or wrong). Obviously, good ventilation; don't let lacquer thinner touch any finished wood...

[topcat7736]

Joe,

If you have a Fleetwood/Coleman trailer, your problems are just beginning. The plastic was originally glued in place but, due to the fiberboard junk swelling because of moisture & humidity, the groove area expanded & popped it out.

I re-glued ours with some silicone sealant & that didn't work. Used some strong glue, which worked for a while, but it popped out again.

I should have used a two tube epoxy & really sealed the plastic to the fiberboard leaving no space for water to enter. This past summer, with all the rain & humidity we had, the edging came off ALL the surfaces & the fiberboard is swelled & cracked everywhere.

I think my best bet is to remove all the top pieces, use them as templates and make a new cedar wood tops (putting 10 coats of lacquer on them).

Because of our "negative learning curve" with our Fleetwood popup, we thoroughly checked out every manufacturer's TT we went into before deciding to buy a Sunline. Sunline uses real WOOD in their products; no cheap fiberboard anywhere!

[wynot]

Joe,
 
If you have a Fleetwood/Coleman trailer, your problems are just beginning. The plastic was originally glued in place but, due to the fiberboard junk swelling because of moisture & humidity, the groove area expanded & popped it out.
 
I re-glued ours with some silicone sealant & that didn't work. Used some strong glue, which worked for a while, but it popped out again.
 
I should have used a two tube epoxy & really sealed the plastic to the fiberboard leaving no space for water to enter. This past summer, with all the rain & humidity we had, the edging came off ALL the surfaces & the fiberboard is swelled & cracked everywhere.
 
I think my best bet is to remove all the top pieces, use them as templates and make a new cedar wood tops (putting 10 coats of lacquer on them).
 
Because of our "negative learning curve" with our Fleetwood popup, we thoroughly checked out every manufacturer's TT we went into before deciding to buy a Sunline. Sunline uses real WOOD in their products; no cheap fiberboard anywhere!

That indeed is one of the downsides to particleboard - it sucks up moisture.
 
When I replaced my outside stove board, I made it out of a melamine covered shelf (wanted to use a piece of plastic like is used for stalls in some bathrooms, but wasn't able to come up with that readily).  I then covered all exposed edges with edge binding.  Then I spraved it thoroughly all over, in and out with spar varnish - marine sealer - about 6 times.
 
As it stands now, if it gets wet, it gets wet and doesn't soak in.  So far, it has worked beautifully, and it has gotten wet a number of times.

[savoytj]

Just replaced all of our counter tops (3) in the Coleman Cheyenne.
We removed the inside stove and sink (never used) and now have a big top and more pantry space. I used the old tops as templates and cut out some 3/4 inch plywood, brought to a local cabinet shop and they applied Formica on tops and wrapped the edges. Total cost of $75 but well worth the results. The old tops were swelling and cracking.