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Door Alignment Problem

Started by rock_hound, Apr 29, 2005, 04:40 PM

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rock_hound

I am having a door alignment problem on my 98 coachmen.  There is a larger separation on the upper part of the door than the lower.  This is only on the lower door.  It makes assembly of door halves very tricky. What could be causing this?

SpeakEasy

Without more information it's hard to advise you. However, a common reason for door misalignment is when you set the camper up without making sure it's level. If the camper tilts from side-to-side or front-to-back even a little bit, then the door won't square-out correctly. Could this be your problem?

rock_hound

Quote from: SpeakEasyWithout more information it's hard to advise you. However, a common reason for door misalignment is when you set the camper up without making sure it's level. If the camper tilts from side-to-side or front-to-back even a little bit, then the door won't square-out correctly. Could this be your problem?

It does this whether leveled out or not.  It is hard to describe the condition.  Maybe I will try to post some pictures.  This is my first pop up and I have only had it for two weeks.  However, my dad has had a Jayco pop up for a number of years.  He also has door problems.  Is this just an inherent problem with pop ups?

endless horizons

Oh no! I think this is what has happened to me. I have taken the pup out twice with out my dh. I wasn't sure about the leveling so I thought it was okay. On this last trip on the 4th day of camping I noticed the same thing. I noticed a gap in the door. I checked everything, the velcrow the way the door sat on the bottome and top but that gap was still there. I think may be I didn't use any wood under the stabalizers and they did sink into the dirt a little. I explained to my dh what I had found. He will take a look at it on our next outing. I think I will never be able to take the pup out alone again. I was so proud of my self too.
 :(
Maggie

chasd60

You should hook the two halves of the door together and fasten the fabric around the doors before putting any tension on the bunkend fabric. The tension on the bunkends causes the roof to be pushed one direction or the other.
 
Here is a link to the complete setup procedure I used on my Viking
http://www.arveeclub.com/showthread.php?t=50623&highlight=setup

mike4947

On older PU's it used to be a common problem. We called it middle age spread. The frame sagged in front and in back of the suspension and caused the door opening to be wider at the top than the bottom.
One trailer had it so bad that when you climbed into the front bunk the door would open. Before we found out what caused it we swore the trailer was haunted. LOL
On older trailers the fix was to over crank the two door side stabilizers to "straigten out" the door side and bring the ends up to make the door opening in the box narrower/straighter at the top to match the bottom of the door opening in the box.
This is done after raising the roof and the stabilizers need to be retracted before closing to prevent any binding in the lifting system.
On one trailer we needed one of the small jacks under the frame on the opposite side of the door from the axle to keep the opening square enough for the door to work.