Outside stove problem

[mikewilley]

I am having problems with my outside high pressure stove on my Coleman Santa Fe.  The symptom is that when I turn on the gas at the grill I get a surge of gas that can be lit, then the pressure seems to drop to zero and the flame goes out.

I tried connecting a small propane canister directly to the stove  and reached two conclusions:
[INDENT]1. High pressure is relative, even the small propane cylinders need a regulator before attaching to this stove:yikes: !
2. The stove is not the problem.
[/INDENT]
It looks to me like the propane connection goes through a regulator then to my stove.  There appears to be a second regulator, downstream of the first one that goes to the water heater and inside stove.  I have reached the conclusion that that "first stage" regulator is the culprit.

BTW: The inside stove works OK and the water heater seems to work, but I have a consistent problem with the pilot blowing out (we'll work this problem later).

Given the above I have some questions for the group:
[INDENT]1. Have I properly diagnosed the problem?
2. Has anyone else had a similar problem?
3. Is this hard to fix or hard to find parts for?
4. Should I carry spare propane regulators in the future?
[/INDENT]
Thanks in advance for all the help!

cheers,
mike

[mike4947]

Could be the single stage regulator that Fleetwood added to supply the outside stove (BTW it is the same type/pressure you'll find at home centers for outside BBQ's/gas grills)or it could be the adapter hose connecting trailer to stove. The hose has check valve inside it to retain any propane in the hose when disconnecting. The check valves have a habit of sticking. A fix is to get out the needle nose pliers and remove them.

[tlhdoc]

The first regulator is a high pressure regulator.  That is only used for the high pressure outside stove.  The second regulator is a low pressure regulator and all of your "inside" propane devices use that.  I have heard, but don't know for sure, that a trailer propane regulator is different from a bbq regulator, because of the vibration the regulator has to stand up to when towing.  The high pressure regulator feeds the low pressure regulator, so I don't think it is the problem.  I would guess that it is in the high pressure line, possible the check valve.

[mikewilley]

I have followed the high pressure line from the regulator to the connector on the frame where I plug in the stove and haven't seen anything that looked like it might be a check valve.  Do you have any idea where fleetwood would install one or what it would look like?

The first regulator is a high pressure regulator.  That is only used for the high pressure outside stove.  The second regulator is a low pressure regulator and all of your "inside" propane devices use that.  I have heard, but don't know for sure, that a trailer propane regulator is different from a bbq regulator, because of the vibration the regulator has to stand up to when towing.  The high pressure regulator feeds the low pressure regulator, so I don't think it is the problem.  I would guess that it is in the high pressure line, possible the check valve.

[mike4947]

The check valves are in the flexable hose used from the trailer side connector to the stove.

[zamboni]

It is also possible it is your tank.  If the tank was tipped too far, "float valve" inside would have dipped into the liquid propane -- and frozen.

This manifests itself by severely decreasing the pressue of the LP gas coming out -- also meaning you cannot empty the tank, either.

It would not be obvious to the low-pressue inside stove, but a high-pressue device will not get the "flow" it requires.

If you have a spare tank, try that.  Test the "bad" tank on a BBQ (like we did), and found that on high, the BBQ could not generate enough heat to cook nearly as fast.  With the lid closed, on max, the temp guage only got about half way to max.

If that is the case, take the tank to someplace like Home Depot where you can swap out the entire tank for a full one for $15.

[tknick]

Don't know much about propane tanks, but I know there is a bleed screw on the valve that is left open until the tank reaches the proper weight and then closed.

If the bleed screw is opened, the pressure in the tank will drop and allow the propane in the liquid form to change to gas form and escape.  If the float is frozen, Eventually, enough of the propane will escape in gas form to allow the float to unfreeze.  

Of course if you are letting propane escape, DO THIS IN A WELL VENTILATED AREA AWAY FROM ALL SOURCES OF IGNITION!  PROPANE IS ALSO HEAVIER THAN AIR AND WILL POOL IN LOW AREAS.  THIS COULD CREATE AN EXPLOSION HAZARD EVEN AFTER THE PROPANE HAS BEEN TURNED OFF.

travis

[Campaholics]

We had a similar problem on our last trip.  My outside propane connection is from the tank pressure side  of the first stage regulator to feed a regular Coleman stove with its own regulator.  I was getting very little gas, also low flame on the inside stove.  When I turned off the gas at the tank and unscrewed the connection propane was still coming from the tank.  I reconnected the tank (no leaks) pressure and flow was normal for the rest of the trip.  Unless someone knows how to safely get the tank off the PUP, it will stay there until I consume the gas next spring.  

Back to our low flow problems.  It is either the tank valve or the hose connection to the tank.  I think someone said there is a flow limiting device on the tank connector for RV applications that isn't on BBQ grill connectors.  If so that could be the problem.  Or, the check valve in the connector, it may not be opening all the way.  
 
How do we remove the check valve?  Every time I set up I have to bleed the gas lines, so the check valve brings nothing to the party.

[mike4947]

Bob, needle nose pliers and if you're my age reading glasses. LOL

[Campaholics]

Mike,

I joined the bifocal brigade in '88, and trifocals last summer, geezerhood rapidly approaches.  Please pass the extra strong reading glasses.
 
What do we have to take apart to get at the check valve?  I picture the stem on the connector that goes into the tank valve being slotted.  Do we unscrew that first, and then pull the check valve?
 
Bob