Towing with Subaru

[RETCAMPER]

I am a Newbie. We've recently purchased a wooded waterfront property mainly to camp out there. So our next move was to purchase a PU: 2006 Fleetwood Cheyenne. Out TV is Subaru Forester with a trailer hitch. Towing Capacity of 2,400 lbs. with 200 lb. tongue weight. I am going to have a Prodigy brake controller installed. The Cheyenne specs: 2,010 lb UVW with 135 lb tongue wt. We plan to pick it up sometime in May and tow it empty for 50 miles to the property. It will have a 20 lb LP tank which adds 44 lbs to tongue wt. I read some place that for towing stability the tongue wt should be between 10% to 15% of the trailer wt. Do I need to add some weight in the front storage compartment? Will it be o.k. to exceed the TV tongue wt limit by 10%?

[tknick]

I would not recommend exceeding the TV tongue weight.  Although I am sure they have engineered the hitch beyond the 200lb tongue weight, I wouldn't want to find out that it was only engineered to 210lbs and you found that out because the hitch broke off of your car.

Sway typically only becomes a problem as speed increases.  If you are only making the one trip and can keep the speeds relatively low (55 mph or less) then sway shouldn't be a problem (although no guarantee!).   If sway does become a problem, simply slow down and it should diminish.  Also, avoid using the vehicle brakes immediately when you notice the sway becoming a problem.  Let off of the gas and apply the trailer brakes using the brake controller.  That should eliminate the sway and you can gradually slow to a safer speed.  Since you are only going 50 miles, that may make for a long trip, but you only have to make it once.

The other thing to keep in mind with TV limits is they are set based on a bunch of things, braking capacity, transmission load capacity and cooling capacity, engine cooling capacity, horsepower, etc.  You don't want to push that envelope because if it rips, it could be very expensive or potentially deadly if you are involved in a crash.  Also, it would void your warranty.

hope this helps!

[tlhdoc]

I was relieved to see that you  are only going to tow the PU one time out to your property.  Rather than buy a brake controller, have you thought about borrowing or hiring someone with a tow vehicle, to take your PU to your property?  The RV dealer may do this for a fee.  Good luck with the new camper and property.

[flyfisherman]

The specs you posted for the Cheyenne are reminisce for me of a previous Coleman/Fleetwood I use to have ('96 Yukon). It was light tounged and just going down the highway EMPTY was a chore becuase it wanted to sway (fishtail) like nobody's business! Of course, the answer was to stow some gear/ weight forward to get that weight/tounge ratio of a 10 to 15% tounge weight. I mention this as it just might be a concern for you, too, judging by the specs.

As for the Subaru's weight towing capacity, do you know if that's a class II hitch it presently has? If it is, it would be rated for 3500 lbs. Should it be something like a class I hitch, then the rating would be for something like 2000 lbs. Also,  be sure you check the ball size on the vehicle that it would be the needed 2" ball size required for the Chyenne (should be stamped right on top of the ball).

My concern would not be so much for the ability of the Subaru to be able to tow that Cheyenne that short distance, or that some additional weight you put aboard the camper especially to achieve the right balance, but would be for the capacity of the hitch. I suspect the towing specs Subaru  posted is for what they figure the vehicle can adequately and safely handle and yet perform to their standards of performance.


Fly

[RETCAMPER]

I would not recommend exceeding the TV tongue weight.  Although I am sure they have engineered the hitch beyond the 200lb tongue weight, I wouldn't want to find out that it was only engineered to 210lbs and you found that out because the hitch broke off of your car.

Sway typically only becomes a problem as speed increases.  If you are only making the one trip and can keep the speeds relatively low (55 mph or less) then sway shouldn't be a problem (although no guarantee!).   If sway does become a problem, simply slow down and it should diminish.  Also, avoid using the vehicle brakes immediately when you notice the sway becoming a problem.  Let off of the gas and apply the trailer brakes using the brake controller.  That should eliminate the sway and you can gradually slow to a safer speed.  Since you are only going 50 miles, that may make for a long trip, but you only have to make it once.

The other thing to keep in mind with TV limits is they are set based on a bunch of things, braking capacity, transmission load capacity and cooling capacity, engine cooling capacity, horsepower, etc.  You don't want to push that envelope because if it rips, it could be very expensive or potentially deadly if you are involved in a crash.  Also, it would void your warranty.

Thank you for your helpful comments. Since it is only 50 miles drive, I'll keep my speed at 50 mph. I think I can check the tongue wt with a bathroom scale. To stay under 200 lbs. I may have to remove the propane tank and put it in side the TV's cargo area.

[RETCAMPER]

I was relieved to see that you  are only going to tow the PU one time out to your property.  Rather than buy a brake controller, have you thought about borrowing or hiring someone with a tow vehicle, to take your PU to your property?  The RV dealer may do this for a fee.  Good luck with the new camper and property.

The RV dealer wants $200 to tow the PU to our property. I can have Prodigy install for $230 at a U-Haul place. It is possible that we store PU at a nearby rental storage for winter. Hence it makes sense to have the brake controller.

[RETCAMPER]

The specs you posted for the Cheyenne are reminisce for me of a previous Coleman/Fleetwood I use to have ('96 Yukon). It was light tounged and just going down the highway EMPTY was a chore becuase it wanted to sway (fishtail) like nobody's business! Of course, the answer was to stow some gear/ weight forward to get that weight/tounge ratio of a 10 to 15% tounge weight. I mention this as it just might be a concern for you, too, judging by the specs.

As for the Subaru's weight towing capacity, do you know if that's a class II hitch it presently has? If it is, it would be rated for 3500 lbs. Should it be something like a class I hitch, then the rating would be for something like 2000 lbs. Also,  be sure you check the ball size on the vehicle that it would be the needed 2" ball size required for the Chyenne (should be stamped right on top of the ball).

My concern would not be so much for the ability of the Subaru to be able to tow that Cheyenne that short distance, or that some additional weight you put aboard the camper especially to achieve the right balance, but would be for the capacity of the hitch. I suspect the towing specs Subaru  posted is for what they figure the vehicle can adequately and safely handle and yet perform to their standards of performance.


Fly

It is a class II hitch with a 2" ball.

[flyfisherman]

RETCAMPER - my main concern was just what kind of hitch your Subaru had and now seeing that it's a Class II, your vehicle should be able to tow it that short of a distance. Do believe the 200 lb tounge weight limit listed by Subaru is the point of where it will begin to squat under the load. Certainly with a minimal cargo load aboard your Cheyenne, you ought to be O.K., however, I certainly would not remove ANYTHING from the trailer tounge ... especially the L/P tank!  You need some more weight on that tounge, everybit of 200 lbs!

Go ahead and do the deed ... you may need to be able to tow that thing again some time or another - and a fifty mile trip would just be enough to initiate you into the "club"!

Get the wiring harness installed on the Subaru ... who knows ...  you might have to move it again; or maybe you might want to visit some other place close distant to where your taking it.


Fly

[Gone-Camping]

Not sure how remote this property is, but a brand new trailer sitting on an empty lot with nobody around is a very simple item to swipe! Trailer tongue locks only keep honest people honest, and what ever you store inside of it is not going to be secure either.

If you plan on keeping it parked somewhere and care at all about someone taking it, then I'd highly suggest a wheel clamp or other security device that would actually deter theft...
 
You might want to look at one of these... http://www.trailerlock.com/

[RETCAMPER]

Not sure how remote this property is, but a brand new trailer sitting on an empty lot with nobody around is a very simple item to swipe! Trailer tongue locks only keep honest people honest, and what ever you store inside of it is not going to be secure either.

If you plan on keeping it parked somewhere and care at all about someone taking it, then I'd highly suggest a wheel clamp or other security device that would actually deter theft...
 
You might want to look at one of these... http://www.trailerlock.com/

Thank you for the tip. I went to the site and checked out "Trailer Keeper". I think I'll buy this product.

retcamper

[RETCAMPER]

RETCAMPER - my main concern was just what kind of hitch your Subaru had and now seeing that it's a Class II, your vehicle should be able to tow it that short of a distance. Do believe the 200 lb tounge weight limit listed by Subaru is the point of where it will begin to squat under the load. Certainly with a minimal cargo load aboard your Cheyenne, you ought to be O.K., however, I certainly would not remove ANYTHING from the trailer tounge ... especially the L/P tank!  You need some more weight on that tounge, everybit of 200 lbs!

Go ahead and do the deed ... you may need to be able to tow that thing again some time or another - and a fifty mile trip would just be enough to initiate you into the "club"!

Get the wiring harness installed on the Subaru ... who knows ...  you might have to move it again; or maybe you might want to visit some other place close distant to where your taking it.


Fly

Thanks. I am going get the Prodigy controller installed. I'll try to get the TW at 200 lbs. for safer towing. It is amazing that after sizable initial investment in the PU, the extras keep adding up!
retcamper

[Kavoom]

Don't worry about the Forester.  It is not a delicate flower to be carefully tended and pampered...  But then you probably already know that...

In the UK and Australia they have been rated as the best tow vehicles for the countries for years... They rate them at higher weights there also.  Long story involving govt. agencies and fear of liability...  

I did 6K miles in my Forester last year with an 1800 lb (loaded) pup and it was a great tow vehicle.  I was doing 75 mph across the Dakotas and Nebraska averaging 21 mpg.  I do have a manual transmission.  Subaru does require brakes on any trailer over 1,000 lbs.  But 50 miles, don't think I'd worry about it.    

You will be easily within the weight ratings for that 50 mile trip.  I agree on putting some weight forward on the pup and staying below the 200 lbs tongue weight.  My tongue weight is around 200 and it hardly brings the back down at all.  Maybe an inch.  

Due to the dry weight on a Cheyenne, I would not want a Forester as a prime mover though.  Due to the 2400 lb limit (which by the way is NOT limited by what is in the vehicle) you do have to buy a pup carefully when using a Forester as a TV.  

You generally are limited to 8 boxes and I would keep the dry weight under 1,500 lbs and watch the tongue weights.  

So, a Cheyenne is over that for any serious Forester hauling, but based upon what you said, you will be very pleasantly surprised at how nice a TV it is.  

Take care.  

Me and the DG and the Black Dog
2006 Flagstaff 176
2004 Subaru Forester X

[RETCAMPER]

Don't worry about the Forester.  It is not a delicate flower to be carefully tended and pampered...  But then you probably already know that...

In the UK and Australia they have been rated as the best tow vehicles for the countries for years... They rate them at higher weights there also.  Long story involving govt. agencies and fear of liability...  

I did 6K miles in my Forester last year with an 1800 lb (loaded) pup and it was a great tow vehicle.  I was doing 75 mph across the Dakotas and Nebraska averaging 21 mpg.  I do have a manual transmission.  Subaru does require brakes on any trailer over 1,000 lbs.  But 50 miles, don't think I'd worry about it.    

You will be easily within the weight ratings for that 50 mile trip.  I agree on putting some weight forward on the pup and staying below the 200 lbs tongue weight.  My tongue weight is around 200 and it hardly brings the back down at all.  Maybe an inch.  

Due to the dry weight on a Cheyenne, I would not want a Forester as a prime mover though.  Due to the 2400 lb limit (which by the way is NOT limited by what is in the vehicle) you do have to buy a pup carefully when using a Forester as a TV.  

You generally are limited to 8 boxes and I would keep the dry weight under 1,500 lbs and watch the tongue weights.  

So, a Cheyenne is over that for any serious Forester hauling, but based upon what you said, you will be very pleasantly surprised at how nice a TV it is.  

Take care.  

Me and the DG and the Black Dog
2006 Flagstaff 176
2004 Subaru Forester X

Thank you Kavoom for your helpful advice. It is good to know that the 2400 lb towing limit is not compromised by what's inside the TV. Do you think I need to increase the rear tire pressures on the TV to say 35 psi from the normal 29 psi? I've auto tranny. Do I drive in lower gear like say 3 while towing? Am I making a big deal about all this?