Another converter question

[kwatson51]

I promise, I did a search for this 1st :eyecrazy:

I have a Centurion CS2000 converter in the pup.
 - My brochure says it has a charger in it.
 - The charger "manual" (not much more than a folded page) says nothing about  it.
 - A label on the front states something like "all power specifications includes charger load".
 - There are 2 breakers - one blue 15amp and 1 red 20 amp for the non-existant air conditioner.
 - A voltmeter across the battry lead and ground reads 0 when the pup is plugged into AC.

Whats the real story? Does it have a charger circuit or not?

[chasd60]

I had a Centurion 2000 and it charged my battery. The problem was that it overcharged the battery.
I am not sure what you mean by a voltmeter across the battery lead and ground.
 
If you check the voltage across the battery terminals after the AC has been unplugged for a day or so, you should read around 12.65-12.8V or so. When you plug the AC circuit back in the voltage should be higher than that because it charges at an elevated voltage.

[ScaryFast]

Hi Keith,

Do you have 12 volt power in your camper, lights work, when you are plugged into A/C power? If so, I believe there is a fuse on your converter that allows distribution to your battery. Is this fuse good? It's probably a 20 amp fuse on a CS2000 converter.

Converters are not real battery chargers. Basically, when the converter is running, i.e., providing 12 volt power, it charges the RV battery. So, it is called a charger. Converters are designed to output a constant voltage of 13.5 volts. This output is what charges the battery.

Chasd is right; a converter will cook a battery when charged for an extended period of time. The 13.5 volts from the converter is too high (should be 13.2 volts) as a maintenance or trickle charge. It can boil a battery dry.

An automatic 3-stage charger is the best option for charging and will prolong your battery's lifespan and improve its performance.

I hope it is just a fuse on your converter and not a component failure.

[kwatson51]

I am not sure what you mean by a voltmeter across the battery lead and ground.
.

ChasD60: What I intended to say (as best I could at bedtime   ) was that if I disconnect the converter lead to the battery and attach that lead to a voltmeter, attach the other lead from the voltmeter to chassis grouond, I get a reading of 0. I would think that if the circuit were really charging, I would get +12V or better.

I visually checked all 4 fuses and they appear good. I will test them for continuity tonight.
 
ScaryFast: Do the WFCO converters make good chargeres? or are your statements true for all converters?

Thanks for the replies!

[ccarr113]

So you folks are saying that a converter could fry a battery if left connected too long.  Does this mean that I should be disconnecting the battery once I have plugged into the 30 amp shore power at the camp site?  The converter in our coleman is a MAGNETEK something or other.  It says on the inner panel that it is not for charging.  What should I do in my case?  Also, I have a booster/charger I use for other things,  can I charge the battery while it is still connected to the black and white camper leads?  Any input would be greatle appreciated.

[mike4947]

Both the named converters only supply the same voltage used in the rest of the trailer for 12 volt applications. It isn't high enough to fully charge the battery, but is high enough that over extended periods of time it will cause enough extra evaporation to lower the water level in the battery. We're talking weeks/months here not a day or two, or a week's vacation.
 
One of the new smart chargers is a good addition for trailer with those converters. It won't overcahrge, will charge faster, and they even have a percentage of charge meter so you can tell what level your battery is at.
As for charging when connected to the trailer remember it's best to unhook the battery from the trailer when not actively camping anyway so the propane detector and any other parasitic loads won't discharge the battery.

[kwatson51]

One of the new smart chargers is a good addition for trailer with those converters. It won't overcahrge, will charge faster, and they even have a percentage of charge meter so you can tell what level your battery is at.
A

Sooo....
If I understand, this may be a good excuse to get a new WFCO converter?
For $130, sounds like a feasable idea.
Any other brands to consider?

[mike4947]

The smart chargers are not a converter. The WFCO converter while it does have a decent 3 stange charger built in; it doesn't have the sulfation cycle of the smart charger or the percentage of charge meter.
Cuurently the WFCO is about the best replacement for a PU converter. Most others you see that are really good are designed for larger RV's. They don't have circuit breakers spots and are designed to be wired to an existing circuit breaker in a seperate panel. Theu can be used but that means finding another location for the new converter and wiring it to the existing breakers in the old panel.

[ScaryFast]

Kevin,

I now think there is a fuse inside of your converter. It could be an internal reverse polarity protection fuse. Remove the cover and take a look. Sounds like your four distribution fuses are good.

So, plugged into AC power, battery disconnected, do you have 12 volt power - lights are working? Is it just the power to the battery that is missing or no 12 volt at all? What about your AC 110 volt outlets?

Mike is correct; it would probably take a month to boil off the electrolyte level with the converter. Connecting to shore power for a week is fine. Watch your battery's fluid levels.

[kwatson51]

Kevin,

I now think there is a fuse inside of your converter. It could be an internal reverse polarity protection fuse. Remove the cover and take a look. Sounds like your four distribution fuses are good.

So, plugged into AC power, battery disconnected, do you have 12 volt power - lights are working? Is it just the power to the battery that is missing or no 12 volt at all? What about your AC 110 volt outlets?

Mike is correct; it would probably take a month to boil off the electrolyte level with the converter. Connecting to shore power for a week is fine. Watch your battery's fluid levels.

I will take a look. Yes, all other 12v and AC power is fine.
I tthink I like the 'smart charger' idea better.
So which one do I get?

[kwatson51]

So you folks are saying that a converter could fry a battery if left connected too long.  Does this mean that I should be disconnecting the battery once I have plugged into the 30 amp shore power at the camp site?  The converter in our coleman is a MAGNETEK something or other.  It says on the inner panel that it is not for charging.  What should I do in my case?  Also, I have a booster/charger I use for other things,  can I charge the battery while it is still connected to the black and white camper leads?  Any input would be greatle appreciated.

Yes, that's the way I charge mine. But I do disconnect the lead to the converter.
Either pull the fuse, disconnect the bullet connector or remove the lead from the battery (I installed a switch to do this with on mine).