door pops open when using beds.....

[genre]

Hey all,
I purchased a 2005 Coachmen Clipper 106, in October 2005.
Have used it 3 times to date.
I cannot, for the life of me, seem to level the trailer properly.
Everytime we go to sit on either bunk end bed, the door pops open.
Any suggestions. I am getting tired of taping the door shut.
Thanks...
Other than that the trailer is great.

[cyclone]

We had this problem in the old Palomino - no matter what we did to level we still had problems with the door.  We hooked a bungee from the door handle to the handle on a drawer.  That camper had cabinets to the immediate left of the door as you entered, so that was a relatively easy fix.

[chasd60]

The procedure I used for my 2001 Viking
 
 
1. Back into lot and check for side to side level, adjust as required with blocks or BAL leveler and add wheel chocks
2. Unplug trailer/vehicle wiring.
3. Crank tongue jack to remove camper from hitch
4. Remove safety chains
5. Pull tow vehicle away
6. Adjust front/back level with tongue jack
7. Remove required items from front storage trunk (i.e. Screenroom, portapotty, roof crank, stabilizer crank.. etc)
8. Unsnap roof clips
9. Remove items from rear bumper storage compartment
10. Unzip awning bag if you are vertically challenged;)
11. Crank roof up until guide wire is taut
12. Install roof safety supports on opposite corners (don't forget these when lowering)
13. Lower stabilizers and snug (fine tune leveling by lowering the lowest side first and more snug)
14. Insert bunkend supports on tongue end
15. Pull strap on bunkend out until the bunkend stops
16. Insert two additional supports under bunkend
17. Pull tent material over end and attach bungie cords
18. Close zippers on this end and close tenting over support arms/zippers
19. Insert bunkend supports on opposite end
20. Pull strap on bunkend out until bunkend stops (adjust for teflon slide under bunkend)
21. Pull tent material over end and attach bungie cords
22. Close zippers on this end and close tenting over support arms/zippers
23. Enter camper and close bottom of door
24. Lower upper half of door from ceiling
25. Insert top door guides into the bottom door and snap clip (careful of fabric pinching on sides)
26. Press top of door in and close the clips (careful of fabric)
27. Twist clip to unhook upper door from doorframe
28. Attach tenting to door frame velcro from inside
29. Removes shepherd poles from under mattresses and place to hold tenting up on bunkends.
30. Organize interior (i.e. flip galley up insure drain is open and valves are closed, close water heater drain valves under u-shaped dinnette seat, place cushions, remove stove etc)
31. Exit camper
32. Attach exterior tenting to door frame, careful of alignment
33. Shut 12V supply off to refrigerator
34. Open gas valves
35. Connect 110V and water if hookups
36. Set refrigerator to either 110V or gas and use piezo if gas to light
37. Hookup any graywater container used
38. Open outside shower compartment and bleed air from both hot and cold sides
39. Light water heater after air is purged from system
40. Undo awning from bag and place awning arms, both support and tension, including the center tension bar
41. Install screen room if desired
42. Relax and have a glass of wine or a beer

[genre]

I will have to start with the back into site.
Normally I just unhitched and pushed the trailer into the site.
I will follow this list.
I am off for a coiple of days camping as of tomorrow morning.
Wish me luck and thanks again....

[brainpause]

You didn't say what your method of leveling is.

DON'T level using the corner stabilizers. They are nothing more than stabilizers, (NOT levelers), and can twist your frame, making your door do funny things.

If you are leveling the correct way (using the axle and blocks/etc.), then ignore this post.



Larry

[tlhdoc]

You didn't say what your method of leveling is.
 
DON'T level using the corner stabilizers. They are nothing more than stabilizers, (NOT levelers), and can twist your frame, making your door do funny things.
 
If you are leveling the correct way (using the axle and blocks/etc.), then ignore this post.
 

 
Larry

I was going to ask the same thing.

[genre]

Thanks for all the info.
I was using the stabilizer jacks to level the trailer.
My last trip I actaully had one wheel completely off the ground. Do you think there would be any permanent damage to my trailer?
I actually used the stabiliser jacks to level the ttrailer before I installed level markers on the corner of my trailer.
I think I will have to remove the stick on levels and start all over.
Wow was I doing this wrong or what.

[TroutBum]

Wow was I doing this wrong or what.

Don't take it personally.  It would seem logical that the jacks on the camper would jack it up.  I blame your dealer.  If you bought an '05 in '05, I assume it was new.  

We bought ours new, and when we took delivery and got the walkaround, leveling without the stabilizers was the first thing he mentioned.

Some day I will get a BAL leveler or some lynx blocks.  But in reality a couple of 2x8's (I have the big wheels - many people use 2x6's) have been all I have ever needed.

[chkster]

some suggest putting in the door b-4 one levels and pulling bunkends out fully... thus eliminating some torque on the body by filling that void. we did this last trip and the door fit "better".. ours did not fly open but was not fitting properly.

[Steve-o-bud]

We had the same issue on a '77 Jayco we owned. The door stayed shut when we were out of bed, after some time in bed, the door would open.
 
The method to stabilize the trailer was to lower the tongue all the way down, swing out the rear stabilizers and extend them, and then raise the front to level front to back. (There were no rear stabilizers). Essentially this put all the weight on the stabilizers in the back and tongue jack in front.
 
In retrospect, it wold have probably been better to have swung the rear stabilizers down but not extend them, level the trailer front/back with the tongue jack, and then extend the rear stabilizers, without placing all the weight on them.

[gager2002]

I just saw this.  My '96 Startcraft had the same problem.  I know I was level, tries every combination of setting up.  Last week I was replacing the lifting springs and cable and noticed something.  The front of my camper (the cabinet and wall) were coming loose from the floor.  So when weight was applied to the bunk it pivoted towards the tongue thus pulling the door hinge and door from the (opposite) latch side and poping open.  Now this weekend I will be modifing.  The frame is good - my first thoughts was that the frame was cracked or bent.  The foor is fine also.  I believe the PO climb into the bunk without the supports and seperated the wall/floor seam. So now I am using some eye bolts, steel cable, and a turn buckle inside the cabinet to bring the two back together.  Also making some new support poles from emt.

[hoppy]

I had the same problem with my 78' Palomino with the split door system.

 My single door system in the Mesa is absolutely no problem.

 I found that it had a little to do with the leveling and stabilizing of the corners (although it's important), but leaving the canvas a little looser at the door frame and the bunk areas helped out the most.

  What would happen on mine would be that once someone jumped up into the bunk areas, the tightness of the canvas would pull the roof in that direction, allowing the door frame to pull away from the door latch.

  Check out this possibility by standing on the outside of the PU, and have someone climb up into the bunk areas. If you notice the roof along with the door frame move in that direction, that could be your problem.

  To make this problem go away with the Pal, I just did not tighten the bunk roof canvas as tight, to take up the tightning of the canvas once someone got into the bunks.

  If this doesn't do the trick, add a spring to the door frame and door to help keep the door closed.

   Good luck

[altozwei]

We have a Starcraft that we bought used last year. It has the same problem. The only thing that keeps it closed is a small latch that locks the door from the inside. We have to pull the velcro loose around the door and reach in to latch and unlatch the door. Levelling makes absolutely no difference. It just seems that, on our unit, the bed torques the door frame once it is opened up. Also, we have noticed that it is much better when first set up, but appears to sag after it sits open for a while, even if no one uses that bunkend. We are considering trying some additional support under the bunk to see if we can eliminate the problem.

Patti
Steve
Elspeth
Kestrel
Rowan
Nike the wonder dog
2001 Nissan Quest
1997 Starcraft Venture 2108

[genre]

I would like to thank everyone for thier suggestions.
I have tried most of them.
The best so far has been leveling side to side. Then pitching the trailer forward with the tongue jack. I then extend the rear stabilizer jacks. Next I level front to back with the tongue jack. I support the tongue jack with a piece of wood under the jack and not under the wheel of the jack. Once I am level again (lots of pressure on the rear stabilisers) I lower the front stabilisers.
Not sure if it is the best for the frame, but it works best.
I also added a felt stick-on to the frame of the door where the latch catches.
We are able to use the bunkends without the door completely opening.
It may unlatch, but stops at that.
I will look at the frame vs the box to make sure that there is no pulling away as mentioned in one of the other replies...

Thanks again folks.

Have had a total of 12 days of camping in my mew to me Clipper 106.
Don't think I'll be going back to tenting anytime soon!

[zamboni]

IOnce I am level again (lots of pressure on the rear stabilisers) I lower the front stabilisers.
Not sure if it is the best for the frame, but it works best.

I'm pretty sure it is bad for the frame.  I'd urge you contact the manufacturer and see what their ratings are for your stabilizers.

FYI - stabilizers are to keep it from moving, NOT support the weight of the camper.  For our heavier Niagara, our manual said they are not rated for more than 500 lbs each.