roof repair

[munchkin]

Okay, guys and girls--here we go. We bought the ultimate fixer-upper .Cheap and you get what you pay for. Please lead us through this.


1. Small hole on roof--about the size of a silver dollar. Previous owners did some repair, but it is haphazard (said to replace duct-tape occasionally.) It's a 1982 Viking with an aluminum roof. Best way to repair exterior?


2.Looked at earlier roof repair threads--I gleaned that

A. we'll need to take ceiling panels down--check wood for rot, mildew, mold, etc.--replace wood if needed and coat rest with kilz. If much needs to be replaced, can we brace for a roof unit at this point and how?

B. Remove syrofoam in this process and replace (where do we buy the styofoam?)--taking care not to puncture aluminum skin.

C. Then what do we need to replace roof panels? Worried about the weight--ceiling panels or paneling? I understand that if they're not pretreated to be moisture resistant, what is the least expensive yet effective way to coat the panels or where do we find pretreated ones?


If I'm totally off-base--please advise. If not, please help with details--exterior repair, bracing advice, styrofoam vendors, and interior paneling clues . Thanks!!


Munchkin and GrumpyCamper

[munchkin]

Exterior roof repair--would the alumanoy rods on the sticky above be the best? If so, any idea how many rods of the stuff we'll need?

[flyfisherman]

Exterior roof repair--would the alumanoy rods on the sticky above be the best? If so, any idea how many rods of the stuff we'll need?

I had to repair a couple of holes in my aluminum roof  -(Starcraft)-  one was a larger hole than you described and the other was a sort of slit which was indented downwards. What had happened is the awning rafter had got away during a high wind and caused the damage.

Anyway, I used a single stage high performance body shop urethane sealant/adhesive (gray colored) for the repairs. In the case of the slit (maybe 3" long), I cleaned and scuffed (sanded) the area where I was going to apply the urethane sealant, pulled the indented aluminum up a little using a regular screw driver and along the opened slit I laid down a narrow, adhesive backed mesh tape (used for dry wall) and then filled in the cavity with the urethane sealant. The dry wall tape holds the sealant from simply falling into the roof. had to let the urethane sealant set for about 18 hours before it totally cured and then sanded down to the roof roof level and painted. Used an acid-etch primer (white, aerosal) let that dry for an hour and painted over with a white aerosal enamel that matched the color of the roof. The acid-etch primer was important as it would not re-act to the urethane sealant. Got the urethane sealant and the acid-etch primer from a body-shop supply store.


Fly

[munchkin]

thanks!

[JWVB]

Looking forward to following this thread.  Recently acquired an '85 Coleman Sun Valley.  Noticed some very small pinholes  in the aluminum roof along the edge closet to the awning.  Appears to be corrosion from moisture that leaked into the top from the awning rail.  Was originally going to temporarily seal them up with caulk, but since I'm replacing all the interior panels, as well as resealing the roof and replacing all the corner caps, I feel I might as well perform the proper repairs.  Was thinking of an epoxy, JB weld, or bondo.  Any suggestions or experiences?

[flyfisherman]

Looking forward to following this thread.  Recently acquired an '85 Coleman Sun Valley.  Noticed some very small pinholes  in the aluminum roof along the edge closet to the awning.  Appears to be corrosion from moisture that leaked into the top from the awning rail.  Was originally going to temporarily seal them up with caulk, but since I'm replacing all the interior panels, as well as resealing the roof and replacing all the corner caps, I feel I might as well perform the proper repairs.  Was thinking of an epoxy, JB weld, or bondo.  Any suggestions or experiences?

You could use a two part epoxy. There are a couple on the market that are formulated for aluminum. Don't remember the name brand right now, but I think Wal-Mart carried one of them once upon a time. With the 2-part epoxy you'll only have about 10 minutes (or less) to work with it before it begins to set-up. That can be good or bad ... depending!

But the single stage body shop urethane is tougher when it does finally set-up. All you have to do is consider how many windshields are held in place today, worldwide, by that nasty black urethane, and you can understand it's strength, waterproof and flexibility.


Fly

[munchkin]

Thanks!! Started ripping the ceiling out--appears to be really thin plywood. The wood and styrofoam is wet over at least half the thing. What a mess!!

[chrismarques]

What model is your Viking? Mine is an '82 Little Gasser sl 16 foot model. We rebuilt the roof this past summer. If yours has the outside spring arms (not a crank up roof) I don't think they are strong enough to support a roof a/c unit and you would also have to lift the extra 100 lbs over your head when raising the roof. I did install 2 wood braces across my ceiling by carving out the foam and securing to the original framework with metal corners screwed in. Otherwise the foam bonded to the aluminum and the ceiling panels makeup the entire structure. We also replaced the sides of the roof due to rot around where the arms bolt on. Click on my link below for lots a photos of mine (we took the roof off to work on) and good luck. Post some pics if you can!

Chris

[munchkin]

WE HAVE A 1982 VIKING 12 FOOT.  IT DOES HAVE A CRANK. tHE INTERIOR ROOF APPEARS TO BE (FROM BOTTOM UP) THIN, THIN PAINTED PLYWOOD, STYROFOAM, THEN THE ALUMINUM. CAN WE BRACE IT?

 IT HAS A WINDOW UNIT, CUT INTO THE FRONT WALL WHERE THE TANKS ARE USUALLY MOUNTED. FOR THE REPLACEMENT COST, SINCE IT'S ALREADY THERE, WE'LL,PROBABLY JUST REPLACE IT WHEN NEEDED WITH ANOTHER WINDOW UNIT--UNLESS THERE'S A VALID REASON OTHERWISE. A ROOF UNIT WOULD BE NICE, BUT AFTER VIEWING THE COSTS, IF ANYTHING NOT TOTALLY MINOR GOES WRONG, 1 PART MIGHT BE AS EXPENSIVE AS A WINDOW UNIT. BUT, WOULD BRACING SERVE ANOTHER PURPOSE? IF IT CAN BE BRACED, HOW WOULD WE GO ABOUT IT ?

ALSO, ANY IDEAS WHERE TO FIND MARINE GRADE PLYWOOD?

THANKS!

[chrismarques]

Adding any bracing to the ceiling would keep it from sagging down, especially in heavy rain where water could collect on the roof. Also it makes for something to screw into if you replaced the ceiling paneling or do any other mods to the ceiling (hangers, etc). You may be able to brace the ceiling on the inside (finished side) also and finish where it would look good depending on how much space there is between to folded canvas and the ceiling when closed. I have about 5" between my ceiling and the matresses when closed up.