Rubber roof over tin roof.

[Darrell T]

I have a 1982 Coleman Sequoia. It has a dimple textured tin roof. It has several (OK a bunch spread all over the roof especially on the edges) pin holes and some other size damage that has left the roof not water proof any more. None of the damage is severe but I want to fix it once and do it right. I know I can paint a Plasti Cote rubber compound on the roof to seal it but think a actual rubber membrane would be better and seal the roof permanently for good. Any thought/ tips/tricks/ ideas on this or any other way to get a good durable permanent repair?
Thanks
Darrell

[austinado16]

Just did this repair too......along with more extensive internal wood rot repair at the front and sides of the roof.

There is a self-leveling roof caulking that's available at your local RV place.  It comes white or tan, and may match good enough that when applied and left to level out, it doesn't need painted.

If you're still not happy with that look (I wasn't because mine was really badly holed in places) You can blend your repair areas a bit with paintable spray-on rocker panel undercoating that is available at autobody supply places, and at NAPA autoparts.  You can sort of spot texture your repair areas and make them drop out better.  Then repaint the whole roof.

Again, search this forum for my thread on "Painting Starcraft Roof" which I just did last week.

[memcamper]

I saw a popup recently where a guy used Rhino Liner, like they paint in the bed of a pick up, on his top.  It looked great and the durability should be much better, this stuff is designed to last a long time, where some rv sealers must be applied every so often. Rhino Lining also has some with a "reflective" property that could help keep a pu cooler....maybe?  I just wonder has anyone else seen this, used Rhino Linings and would it work?

[flyfisherman]

Providing you prepare the surface correctly, i.e., cleaning, scuffing it (sanding) and apply a good primer, like a two=part epoxy primer/sealer, you could very well cover the roof with about two medium coats of the premium, quick dry automotive undercoating  (3-M is a good brand) ~ then you could paint right over it!


Fly

[austinado16]

Personally, I think Rhino Lining, or Line-X would be the only way to fly.  But after talking to the local places, it comes black......which wouldn't work....and if you want it tinted, it's another couple hundred dollars.  And then the tint colors don't hold up well in the sun and wind up turning weird tones.  So, for me to have done my roof in Tan Line-X it would have been $500ish and it would have faded to some weird shade of goldish green or something.

Be careful which spray-on undercoating you select.  Make sure it's paintable because many are not.   Also, there can be compatibility problems between the paintable and the top coat, so after a couple years, you get the top coat cracking and spawling right off the undercoat.

[stewartlittle]

As for the Rhino Liner or LineX,would it crack or split with the flex of the top?

[austinado16]

As for the Rhino Liner or LineX,would it crack or split with the flex of the top?

Not a chance.  The local Rhino-Lining shop gave me some scraps that they had for a project I was working on.  They were flexible like rubber floor mats and simply indestructable.

[stewartlittle]

Well,I looked at my roof yesterday and it did'nt look good at all.The screws threads where almost gone on several on the ends,plus it's sagging about 1/4'' at the seem on the ends.Lets me know roof damage is present.

But I thought of getting new screws,putting caulking in the holes,put the screws in then put more caulk over the screws and put kool seal on top of the cap.

What if something happened and you needed to remove the Rhino Liner,would'nt it be hard or impossible?

[austinado16]

Well,...what if something happened and you needed to remove the Rhino Liner,would'nt it be hard or impossible?

Uhmmm......impossible.

If you have an aluminum skinned roof, you can take it apart, or take just the bad area apart, and fix it.  My roof was a mess up front and if you search the archives, you'll see what I did to repair it during the past 6 months of ownership.  Not that it took 6 months.  Actually, it wasn't that bad.

Fix yours permanently first, then start thinking about how you want to paint/protect it.  I wound up priming and painting mine with Sherwin Williams oil based enamel for metal.  Used a roller.  Took a qt. of their primer and a qt. of tinted top coat......and under an hour to do the entire job.

[wavery]

Well,I looked at my roof yesterday and it did'nt look good at all.The screws threads where almost gone on several on the ends,plus it's sagging about 1/4'' at the seem on the ends.Lets me know roof damage is present.

But I thought of getting new screws,putting caulking in the holes,put the screws in then put more caulk over the screws and put kool seal on top of the cap.

What if something happened and you needed to remove the Rhino Liner,would'nt it be hard or impossible?

If you want, you may be able to have them spray the Rhino-Liner in a manner that it could be removed.

Ask them if they could spray the liner on top of Saran-Wrap. I used to make boat molds using saran-Wrap in the mold as a release agent. If this stuff is strong enough to be lifted off, it may be possible. Give them a call and run it by them.

All you would have to do is cover the entire top with Saran-Wrap before they spray it. After it sets up, take the new top off and remove the Saran-Wrap. Put the top back on and screw it down on the edges.

You would just have to figure out a way to "Fasten" the liner on top of the PU so that it won't blow off. It's an interesting concept. Might be worth exploring.