Roof leaking AGAIN!

[ScouterMom]

my recently repaired roof is leaking AGAIN! in the same spot!

Last year I replaced the worst of the rotted sidewalls in the roof of my 73 starmaster 6.  the others had signs of rot, too - but there were other problems that had to be fixed, so I did what I HAD to do to get her out and useable.  The other 3 sidewalls were also rotted, but had enough structure with glue and re-inforcing to hold and keep us dry while camping these last two seasons.

My plan was to take the roof off this fall and replace the other three sidewalls at a more leisurely pace. So I cleaned and caulked the entire roof and all it's seams and trim, including paying special attention to the vent - which was the source of roof rot / leaks in my previous vintage camper.

So now, this summer, I see that the piece I replaced is wet and apparently rotting out again - so I still have a leak - but I can't figure out how the water is getting in??

when I took it apart before, and again this time, it appears that water is sitting in the channel that holds the aluminum trim and gasket that seals the top of the camper to the bottom box - and this water is being absorbed by the wood sidewalls 'wicking' up into the wall.  But I can see no holes or gaps on the outside, ANYWHERE, to let water in, especially anywhere near the wettest corner /new board!  

Previously, I took out the rear board, and the back 1/3 of the foam insulation board that was glued to the roof aluminum.  While the foam did show signs of mildew, it really wasn't rotted or coming apart - it was quite difficult to scrape off, especially without cutting or poking holes in the aluminum skin.

so I replaced the board, caulked all the aluminum and seams from the INSIDE, replaced the insulation with a new piece of foam, and glued it in place.  Then I re-assembled all the trim, and cleaned and caulked all the seams and places where the trim fit on, including the roof vent, which is on the opposite corner from the wet part, and caulked the entire roof.

The aluminum IS very worn, though I can't see any actual holes, It's that dimpled stuff and the paint is completely worn off to it's base silver color.  I planned to paint it after I repaired the other three sides.

I can feel a bit of dampness right over the door, and follow it down to that bad corner, but still, can't tell where it is coming in.


I would love to post photos, but my camera is broken and I'll have to wait until the new one I ordered arrives.  I know I'm going to have to re-do the roof (planned on doing the other three sides this fall anyway) but I gotta find the point of entry, or there's no point in putting in new wood to rot again.  I can't afford to buy a whole new aluminum 'skin' for the roof or to replace all the trim and hardware,  so I have to figure this out and somehow seal it up again.

Any ideas?

[wavery]

my recently repaired roof is leaking AGAIN! in the same spot!

Last year I replaced the worst of the rotted sidewalls in the roof of my 73 starmaster 6.  the others had signs of rot, too - but there were other problems that had to be fixed, so I did what I HAD to do to get her out and useable.  The other 3 sidewalls were also rotted, but had enough structure with glue and re-inforcing to hold and keep us dry while camping these last two seasons.

My plan was to take the roof off this fall and replace the other three sidewalls at a more leisurely pace. So I cleaned and caulked the entire roof and all it's seams and trim, including paying special attention to the vent - which was the source of roof rot / leaks in my previous vintage camper.

So now, this summer, I see that the piece I replaced is wet and apparently rotting out again - so I still have a leak - but I can't figure out how the water is getting in??

when I took it apart before, and again this time, it appears that water is sitting in the channel that holds the aluminum trim and gasket that seals the top of the camper to the bottom box - and this water is being absorbed by the wood sidewalls 'wicking' up into the wall.  But I can see no holes or gaps on the outside, ANYWHERE, to let water in, especially anywhere near the wettest corner /new board!  

Previously, I took out the rear board, and the back 1/3 of the foam insulation board that was glued to the roof aluminum.  While the foam did show signs of mildew, it really wasn't rotted or coming apart - it was quite difficult to scrape off, especially without cutting or poking holes in the aluminum skin.

so I replaced the board, caulked all the aluminum and seams from the INSIDE, replaced the insulation with a new piece of foam, and glued it in place.  Then I re-assembled all the trim, and cleaned and caulked all the seams and places where the trim fit on, including the roof vent, which is on the opposite corner from the wet part, and caulked the entire roof.

The aluminum IS very worn, though I can't see any actual holes, It's that dimpled stuff and the paint is completely worn off to it's base silver color.  I planned to paint it after I repaired the other three sides.

I can feel a bit of dampness right over the door, and follow it down to that bad corner, but still, can't tell where it is coming in.


I would love to post photos, but my camera is broken and I'll have to wait until the new one I ordered arrives.  I know I'm going to have to re-do the roof (planned on doing the other three sides this fall anyway) but I gotta find the point of entry, or there's no point in putting in new wood to rot again.  I can't afford to buy a whole new aluminum 'skin' for the roof or to replace all the trim and hardware,  so I have to figure this out and somehow seal it up again.

Any ideas?

Wicking doesn't work like that. Wicking in wood comes from the wood staying wet over long periods of time. You won't have wicking from a single event.

More than likely, your source is coming from above and running down. Water leaks are sometimes very difficult to find. Water could be coming in on one side of the roof and migrating to the other before running down the inside. I don't envy you.

[mike4947]

We've had problems with older roofs with pinhole perferation. Here acid rain takes it's toll on aluminum and the pebbled finish on the roof sheeting holds tiny amounts of water and it eventually causes minute holes. You sometimes need a 10 X power to see the actual holes at the bottom of the little depressions.

[waygard33]

A thermal imaging camera is a good tool for solving this type of problem.

Although it's a long shot - as the prices for these cameras continue to drop, more and more home inspectors are beginning to purchase them. You might try contacting some inspectors in your area and ask them if they have one. If so, they may be willing to stop by and help you out for a minimal fee.

Again, I know it's a long shot. Just thought I'd throw it out there.
wg

[JohnandLeann]

Have you considered Snow Coating the roof?  It is a rubbery flexible material that is very flexible even when cold.  It goes on like paint sort of and makes a nice seal for the roof.
Others here might know what I am talking about and give better details and ideas on how it works.

[ScouterMom]

I might not be using the term 'wicking' correctly - what I mean is that it appears that the water is pooling in the track and the wood is absorbing it - as if you took a piece of wood and set it upright in a bucket of water - the water 'wicks' up the board above the actual water line. So what I see inside, may not have anything to do with where the leak actually is.

So water IS getting in somehow and pooling in those tracks - but I can't figure out where it's coming in, in the first place.

It could even be coming in from the track itself - but since I caulked everything so thouroughly, I can't figure out how it's getting in.

I have thought of coating the roof with some kind of thick paint-on covering - like the truck bedliner stuff - but haven't seen anything that would be workable.  Either it isn't UV resistant (for a PUP roof, it would have to be) or more expensive than gettingnew aluminum would be.  I need to price out options .  But even covering it may not stop the problem if it's the seals around the edge - I still need to find the source to 'fix' the problem.

Anyone know where you could get some kind of aluminum sheet goods large enough to cover a PUP roof, that don't need some kind of expensive specialty tools to seam? (or that comes in one piece?) any other suggestions for re-covering a roof? what would the approximate costs be?

Laura

[dthurk]

The TT and "fixed roof" people swear by Eternabond for sealing seams.  It works and lasts better than Dicor, which is usually used by manufacturers to seal seams.  It comes in various width rolls and apparently lives up to it's name.  Once put down, it will completely eliminate leaks.  I don't know how appropriate its use would be for popups (don't know how pretty it might look), but may end up being a possible solution for you.
 
 Google Eternabond and Dicor, you should find lots of info on both products.

[4Campers]

I used Eternabond to fix my roof, but the leak was more on the seam between the roof and the side panel. It's been in place for 3 years now, with no leaks and still holding well. I also used a small piece on the side panel under the awning for a small hole I poked while replacing the rotted wood after the first leak. Again working well and no leaks. The stuff is pricey, but well worth it. And it doesn't look the best, but.... Here's a pic

[PM3579]

I have worked for the same roofing company for the last 20 yrs. Penatrations in a roof are probably the biggest cause of leakes, followed closely by the flashing around them. Don't take this wrong but a close third is ofter an over application of caulk in the wrong place, compounding the problem. I would look really close at your vent,the top,sides&flashing-caulking where it meets the roof skin. Also check any place where there is caulk on a seam. If there is more than a smooth flat bead of caulk push on it, pull on it, hard enough to maybe detect where it might have failed but not hard enough to pull it off of the pup. If it does pull loose it needed recaulked any how. Eterna bond is a great product, its great for seams, holes, and flashing around penatrations. Another product is Peel&Stick it comes in 3ft wide rolls. You peel off the backing and stick it down, overlapping your edges. One more good product is called Top Coat, it is a brushable rubber coating that workes quite well also. All of these products are foor roofs, they all come in white and stand up well to UV. They can be purchased at your local roofing supply house, the big thing is to make sure everything is clean and dry, do the prep work, it makes a differance. None of these products are cheap but you get what you pay for. The quality will be rembered long after the price is forgotten :usflag:

[PM3579]

A correction to my last post. The name of the second product is Peel and Seal not peel and stick as we refer to it in the shop. Hope this helps. :usflag: