Convert HP propane stove to LP?

[tonyw3026]

The Wedgewood inside/outside LP propane stove that came with our camper is very poor (not hot enough, partiularly outside) and we would like to purchase a new stove. Most stoves are designed for HP propane so since the propane system on our camper is LP, we would have to use a small bottle or connect a hose directly to our 20lb tank. We want to do neither.

I have heard it is possible to use an HP stove without it's regulator and drill out the jets to run on LP propane. Has anyone information on this?

Failing that I am considering running a permanent HP line from the 20lb tank to the inside/outside connections so we can use an HP stove unmodified.

Thanks

Tony Wright

[oreo57]

? LP is propane.

[AustinBoston]

? LP is propane.

He's using Propane to refer to the fuel, LP to refer to Low Pressure, and HP to refer to High Pressure.

Safety note to OP: Tank pressure is many, many times higher than "High Pressure".  High pressure is still regulated, and is "High Pressure" because it's a couple times (4x???) that of Low Pressure.  You may know that, but it bears repeating.

Austin

[mike4947]

Stick with the T before the campers regulator and a seperate hose with the unmodified HP stove . Trying to run with drilled out jets and no regulator won't work. Trust me we've had quite a few try it and many an awning and/or curtains have went up in flames.

[flyfisherman]

The Wedgewood inside/outside LP propane stove that came with our camper is very poor (not hot enough, partiularly outside) and we would like to purchase a new stove. Most stoves are designed for HP propane so since the propane system on our camper is LP, we would have to use a small bottle or connect a hose directly to our 20lb tank. We want to do neither.

I have heard it is possible to use an HP stove without it's regulator and drill out the jets to run on LP propane. Has anyone information on this?

Failing that I am considering running a permanent HP line from the 20lb tank to the inside/outside connections so we can use an HP stove unmodified.

Thanks

Tony Wright

Unregulated L/P tank pressures will run anywhere from 60 to 120 psi -
Most RV regulators are two stage, the first stage drops the propane pressure down to an average of 10 psi and the second stage drops it down to 11" WC (eleven inches water column pressure), where all RV appliances are targeted to operate at.
1 psi = 28" WC. This should give you an idea of the pressure drop.

My Starcraft has one of those "indoor/outdoor" stoves, too (Suburban), and likewise, performance outside is lackluster ... AND, it's a real hassle to tote in and out since it sets in a base. Happen to have a two burner Coleman L/P camp stove that I used with the canoe camping trips. It can be hooked up to one of those 16oz throw away canister tanks or you can connect a MR.Buddy propane hose to it and a regular L/P tank ... much cheaper plus better fuel ... most of the fuel in those disposable tanks is mostly butane!
Anyway, that Coleman is regulated for 10 psi and it will blow the knobs off that Suburban performance wise.

So my question would be why not have two stoves - Keep the indoor/outdoor stove indoors for that morning coffee and maybe heating up some soup and get yourself a two burner Coleman for outdoors, to use like at the campground picnic table? And like Mike says, you won't burn the camnper to the ground! (LOL)

Anyway, this combo works great for the girls I go with!




Fly

[coach]

I hang the in/out stove outside and put the Coleman 2 burner on top. I normally operated the Coleman (regulated 15 psi) from refilled disposable bottles. If there is a picnic table, the Coleman sits on one end. It even works well in the wind, something difficult for regulated low pressure (< 1 psi).

Camp Chef makes many 'LP' stoves that will work with their RV connection hose.
They put out 30,000 BTU/burner!

[coach]

Stick with the T before the campers regulator and a seperate hose with the unmodified HP stove . Trying to run with drilled out jets and no regulator won't work. Trust me we've had quite a few try it and many an awning and/or curtains have went up in flames.

I have an old fish fryer that operated off a 0-20 psi red regulator.
The 'burner' was a 1/2" nipple with a whole drilled into the side at the bottom of a 1" diameter pipe about 9" long. That all there is to the butner/manifold!
I use it with a 11"wc regulator as a elevated fire, nice yellow flame, no fire wood needed, just ambiance! The gas doesn't come out fast enough (velocity) to bring enough air to the flame. The stoves are purpose designed to operate as designed. HP stoves use the velocity to mix the air with the propane. The pressure is much less at the burner/flame.

[tonyw3026]

Thanks for the comments so far.

I really don't want two stoves or have to use small bottles and both the inside and ouside hook ups must be right at the stove.  I want to be able to hook up at both locations easily without running hoses to the propane tanks. We have an Aliner and often keep moving on every day. Everything must be quick to set up and take down.

I know of two people who modified their Colman stoves to run on low pressure gas (ie after the main two stage main regulator) by drilling out the jets and removing the stove regulator. They claim they get better performance than using the original low pressure inside/outside stove. If it works, I cannot see why this is any more hazardous than the original low pressure stove which does exactly the same thing and doesn't have it's own regulator either.

It's just that I am not yet convinced that a modified stove running on low pressure with it's regulator removed will be any better than the original low pressure inside/outside stove. Also it would be nice to know how much to drill out the jets - perhaps it's trial and error!

Tony Wright

[flyfisherman]

Thanks for the comments so far.

I really don't want two stoves or have to use small bottles and both the inside and ouside hook ups must be right at the stove.  I want to be able to hook up at both locations easily without running hoses to the propane tanks. We have an Aliner and often keep moving on every day. Everything must be quick to set up and take down.

I know of two people who modified their Colman stoves to run on low pressure gas (ie after the main two stage main regulator) by drilling out the jets and removing the stove regulator. They claim they get better performance than using the original low pressure inside/outside stove. If it works, I cannot see why this is any more hazardous than the original low pressure stove which does exactly the same thing and doesn't have it's own regulator either.

It's just that I am not yet convinced that a modified stove running on low pressure with it's regulator removed will be any better than the original low pressure inside/outside stove. Also it would be nice to know how much to drill out the jets - perhaps it's trial and error!

Tony Wright

I'm not convinced this would be any better either ... in fact, I find it hard to believe that a HP stove designed and regulated to operate at 10 psi and then modified to operate at 11" WC, would out perform a stove already designed and regulated to operate at that pressure. I also have grave doubts about drilling out stove jets, and even if that can be done, about the after safety effects of such a modification.

It would seem to me that a manufacturer who designs and makes a stove to operate at 11" WC, would not already be presenting in their product the best performance for that pressure.



Fly

[coach]

It would be better to change the orifice in a low pressure stove.
Mine is 6500 BTU/burner while my Coelman 2 burner is 10,000 BTU/burner.
They've various models with different ratings, finding the fittings will be a challenge!
Remember, LP stoves are derated for safety, ie as to not catch the curtains/beds/counters on fire.

Use numbered drill bits. Many a web site on converting propane grill to natural gas by drill/replacing the orifice.

orifice capacities

Low Pressure Orifice Chart

Orifice Chart: for High Pressure Propane

[AustinBoston]

It would seem to me that a manufacturer who designs and makes a stove to operate at 11" WC, would not already be presenting in their product the best performance for that pressure.

I believe the RVIA limits inside stoves, so an inside-outside stove may not have the performance of one designed for outside use only, even at the same pressure.

Austin

[flyfisherman]

I believe the RVIA limits inside stoves, so an inside-outside stove may not have the performance of one designed for outside use only, even at the same pressure.

Austin

I think it get gets down to the matter of design of the stoves. The indoor/outdoor stove is designed to operate at 11" WC, trying to operate it at 10 psi would be a disaster waiting to happen. Now if you tried to operate my Coleman camp stove rated to operate at 10 psi at 11" WC, maybe you would get it to light and flicker. It certainly would not be as efficent as the indoor/outdoor stove. Trying to operate either stove outside of the perimeters of their design is simply not too smart. No doubt you could modify a stove by changing it's jets (and whatever else is needed) to a different pressure ... but would it be worth the cost of doing it.

[tonyw3026]

Thank you Coach for those links to orifice sizes, they gave me just the information I needed.

I have drilled out the jets on the low pressure stove from 1/32" to 3/64" which has doubled the max heat output from 7200 BTU to 15,000 BTU. The flame is a little yellow at the tip but there is no carbon deposit on the pans.

My problem is solved

Tony Wright

[coach]

Years ago someone at PUX psoted a story of the in/out stove causing a melt down in windy weather. Claimed it almost caught the PU on fire! Since it took so long to boil anything, they didn't attend to it as often as they might.

I disavow any stove mods!:cake: