Propane problems

[OneBoltShort]

Hey everyone. I'm having major issues with my propane in my pop up. Nothing is staying lit. It's a brand new tank so I know it's full, but a few minutes (or less) after I light my water heater/fridge/stove they all go out. I tried running one appliance at a time and the problems still there. I'm thinkin either the main line is clogged or the regulators bad. I checked the lines and there aren't any kinks so that's not it. Any advice would be greatly appreciatted.

[austinado16]

First, shut the propane tank(s) off.

Second, turn on the propane tank(s) very slowly so as not to activate the internal shut-off valve that will shut down the tank if it thinks there's a leak.

Since the stove is the easiest to light, and cranks out the most propane use, light all the burners, put them on high and let them run for a few minutes.  If the problem seems cured, move to the fridge and then the water heater.

One thing to consider, some stoves are high pressure propane (for outside use) and some are low pressure.  The low pressure stove will be on the same low pressure circuit as the water heater and the fridge, so decide which of your circuits is having a problem if the problem isn't cured by the first 2 steps above.

Then report back your findings.  Some have reported getting water in the propane lines, and this causing a blockage.  I had it happen on an older Coleman I was working on.  Blowing the water out of the lines cured the problem.

[OneBoltShort]

I'll try openning the propane tank slowly and then the stove first thing tomorrow morning and let ya know if that helps.
The main line branches off to the other outlets so I'm not sure if there is an HP circuit... How would I find that out?

[austinado16]

If you have a high pressure circuit, you'll have 2 propane lines coming from the regulator.  One, the closest to the tank, is the high pressure and that would only go to the line that feeds the outside stove hook up.  The second line would feed the inside stove, fridge, and water heater, which are all low pressure appliances.

The safety valves in the tanks are pretty sensative.  What I usually do is crack the valve open just slightly and hear the propane do a little rush and then sort of stop as it makes pressure against the regulator, and then I open the valve the rest of the way until it's wide open.

[flyfisherman]

Hey everyone. I'm having major issues with my propane in my pop up. Nothing is staying lit. It's a brand new tank so I know it's full, but a few minutes (or less) after I light my water heater/fridge/stove they all go out. I tried running one appliance at a time and the problems still there. I'm thinkin either the main line is clogged or the regulators bad. I checked the lines and there aren't any kinks so that's not it. Any advice would be greatly appreciatted.

Let me ask about your "brand new tank" ... is this the regular tank just re-filled with fresh propane or a brand new propane tank and it's just been filled for the first time?

[coach]

When the stove goes out, would a light match next to the burner flicker from 'something' coming out the burner or not be affected by being close to the burner? Does it blow out the match?

[tlhdoc]

You may have got a "bad" tank of propane.  Also if the tank is brand new, was it purged before it was filled?:yikes:

[OneBoltShort]

Not sure if it was purged before filling or not. It's a blue rhino tank and we used it on our grill a few times before putting it on the camper. Tried openning the valve slowly- didn't help. Also the match isn't blown out when the stove goes out. I asked a few people that have worked with campers before and it sounds like a bad reg.

[coach]

The match trick indicates nothing is coming out the burner. Too much air in the line can be detected by the match flickering and won't light (common when you first try to light the stove). I've had the air in the line blow the match out a time or two!

You intermittent problem is upstream, stuff in the line or regulator acting up.

[austinado16]

Just to let you know, those tanks that you trade in for are only being refilled with a couple of gallons of propane.  That's the company's way of keeping the price "low" to you, the consumer.  In other words, you may think you're getting a full tank of propane, and you're not.

New regulators are $19 and take about 10min to install.

[AustinBoston]

Just to let you know, those tanks that you trade in for are only being refilled with a couple of gallons of propane.  That's the company's way of keeping the price "low" to you, the consumer.  In other words, you may think you're getting a full tank of propane, and you're not.

My current employment includes doing data processing for class action firms (it's a company specialty).  We handle thousands of cases a year.  National firms that do stuff like that really should know that it will cost them big time in the long run, paying tens of millions to class action lawyers, and millions more to mail out dollar off coupons.

There are diddly little companies that can get away with it because they are too small to get noticed, but the rinocerous would get nailed if they tried it.

OTOH, the next time I do an exchange (every few years), I WILL weigh the tank.

Austin

[coach]

Let's talk facts about excahnge cylinders.
While 20 lb cylinders can contain 4.6 gallons of propane or 20 lbs of propane (42% of the WC stamped on the collar), the new OPDs come with slighly longer dip tube. My old tank (12/98) has a DT length (stamped on the collar) or 3.8 (inches) and the new ones (6/06) have a DT of 4.0. Since my old cylinder's valve was replaced (an exchange cylinder), it now likey has a 4" DT. My experience, the OPD shuts off filling before the 20 lbs is reached.

Some of the exchange companies have reduced the 'net weight' from 17 lbs to 15 lbs.

My experience has been that cylinder OPD's cut off at just over 17 lbs and the cost to refill is usually less than an exchange. So that 2 lbs (less than 1/2 gallon) is for the convience of the 10 mile + round trip. YMMV.