Older camper? Replace your break-away switch!

[austinado16]

I'm working on a pair of Starcraft Starflyers from '90 and '91 right now.  The '90's brakes aren't recognized by my Tekonsha Prodigy, and I've determined it's because the magnets have failed and no longer have 4ohms of resistance, each.  

In the process of troubleshooting the brake system I tested the camper's break-away switch to see if it worked and would power up the magnets, or at least send 12v back to them so I could do a quick wiring check without hooking up the TV and actuating the Prodigy by hand.  So I pulled the pin out of the break-away and no voltage went through. When I looked inside it with a flashlight, I found rust and schale from the metal components coming apart.  Nice!

Decided I'd give the break-away switch on my own camper a test.....I couldn't even get the pin to come out.  When I finally did, a bunch of rust and schale came flying out with the pin, and the ol' flashlight inspection showed the internals were shot.

Same condition on the '91 Starflyer.  

These are all Tekonsha switches, and all are original to these campers and have a month/year date tag on them.

The local trailer hitch/parts place sold me new switches for $12,  and it takes maybe 10min to replace them.

[Recumbentman]

thanks for the heads-up did the hitch/parts place happen to mention how often theses should be replaced or what type of maintenance we should do to prevent this :confused:
I am thinking maybe to pull the pin once a year and spray the pin and inside housing with WD-40

[austinado16]

I didn't ask them about preventative, figuring that since these campers are all 20-something years old, it is just par for the course.

But like you, I'm thinking about pumping mine full of Tri-Flow, or WD, or whatever.

I'd never messed with them before thinking that they were ruined once you pulled the pin.  But all it is, is a plastic "key" type of shape, that goes in and wedges apart 2 metal contacts.  One of the contacts appears to be on a spring loaded, or spring steel strip of metal, and that's what snaps into the area where the "key" shape goes, and makes the electrical contacts touch.  It's that piece of steel that just rusts into flakes and rots out everthing inside.

Not that any of use will probably ever use the break-away switch, but it would sure suck to have the fit-hit-the-shan and it not work!

BTW, the new versions are really nice.  Same black plastic box, but now mounted to a steel plate that's pre-drilled on one end for the bolt into the tongue, and at the other end, 2 "feet" that trap the front part of the black box to ensure that the "key" gets pulled and the box stays put.

[austinado16]

Just and FYI, the instructions with the switch say the following:
1) The pull cable should be attached to the vehicle frame, not the safety chains or the hitch ball.
2) The unit should be mounted so it gets a straight pull, and so it can swivel.
3) The unit should be replaced every 3-5 years.
4) Disconnect the trailer wiring harness from the TV prior to pulling the pin on the switch and testing the system.  Failure to do so will severely damage the electric brake controller in the TV.
5) Solder all connections.

Uhmmmm....I've never seen one of these that wasn't either butt splice or scotch locked to the camper wiring, I'm not sure how you'd attach it's cable to the vehicle frame (I've always hooked it on the safety chain hook), and 3-5yr replacement?  Who's ever done that?

[oreo57]

Just and FYI, the instructions with the switch say the following:
1) The pull cable should be attached to the vehicle frame, not the safety chains or the hitch ball.
2) The unit should be mounted so it gets a straight pull, and so it can swivel.
3) The unit should be replaced every 3-5 years.
4) Disconnect the trailer wiring harness from the TV prior to pulling the pin on the switch and testing the system. Failure to do so will severely damage the electric brake controller in the TV.
5) Solder all connections.
 
Uhmmmm....I've never seen one of these that wasn't either butt splice or scotch locked to the camper wiring, I'm not sure how you'd attach it's cable to the vehicle frame (I've always hooked it on the safety chain hook), and 3-5yr replacement? Who's ever done that?

Hook it on the frame of the TV, if the whole hitch came loose(dont know why) then the safety cable would still work.I wrap mine around the receiver tube.
 
 
I replaced mine last year and it was only 3 yrs old..Lube the pin with di-electric grease and check the function regularly for proper condition.

[wavery]

I use my break-away switch every time that we get back from camping. I have to un-hitch the trailer and roll it back into the parking space. There is a bit of a slope so I use the break-away switch to stop the trailer before it hits the wall.

The switch on my trailer is original from '99. However, your point is well taken. I think that I may just replace it.

[austinado16]

Guess I'll use one of those chain link connectors that have nut that spins down and opens them up.  Maybe that'll fit in next to one of the safety chain hooks.


or the carabeener style...

[flyfisherman]

That top one is what I use for my safety chains. Those "S" hooks can come undone. With those screw down links the chains are really secured.

I've had a trailer come loose, once upon a time, because I failed to secure the coupler onto the hitching ball. Just got distracted I guess. Anyway, the safety chains saved the day!




Fly

[wavery]

Guess I'll use one of those chain link connectors that have nut that spins down and opens them up.  Maybe that'll fit in next to one of the safety chain hooks.


or the carabeener style...

I wouldn't waste the $ on S/S hanks like that. You can get galvanized ones at any hardware store and they are far stronger that S/S. A lot of people think that S/S is strong but it isn't. It's about 2/3 the strength of galvanized (although it is prettier:p).

The thing that eventually fails on either type of the spring loaded hanks is the spring itself. They are all the same.

The screw down one are the safest but that's just one more thing that you have to do when hooking up. I had those on my other trailer and they were a PITA...... All the clips do is keep the hook from bouncing off of it's mount. It's not like they really do any work and they are a lot easier to clip on.

You can get these @ most H/W stores for about $5. etrailer.com has them for $8 http://www.etrailer.com/p-6495-301-04.htm

[austinado16]

I just posted those photos as a reference.  I've got some standard steel, zinc plated versions of both of those chain link connectors, so I'll use one style.....probably the carabeener style.

I buy new new ACAR brand safety chains that have a one-way bail on the S hook....

So no spring, and no S hooks jumping out (which I've had happen with my car tow dolly), plus in CA, it's the law to have keepers of some sort on your S hooks.  You can buy rubber keepers for your old school S hooks, but they only last a year or 2....

[oreo57]

Guess I'll use one of those chain link connectors that have nut that spins down and opens them up. Maybe that'll fit in next to one of the safety chain hooks.
 
or the carabeener style...

On the brakeaway cable I use the link....on the tow chains I use the hook's like Wayne's.
 
Remember, If the trailer does comes off then the chains will keep it from hitting the ground, but if they fail and it runs away thats when you want the trailer breaks to stop.