RE: Hot Water Tank Drain Plug?

[Joe Gleason]

 
The first time I took my Camper out after purchase was all the way down to Florida, - way out an island (my version of a dry run, 1,200 miles)..
 
 Trying to get the Drain Plug (Rod) installed was tough with out the right tools...
 
 Is there some trick someone  has learned...   Seems like when you leave it out - the hole gets rusted and putting the rod in with out leaks is tough...
 
 What tool do you use for reaching way in!   I am going shopping for a socket with an extension... Or should have camper have come with something?
 
 
 
 
 
 

[Dust64]

 Joe Gleason
Joe:  If your camper has the Suburban water heater with the anode rod used for the drain, you re right they re kind of a pain to put back in.
 
 The easiest way I ve found to put the anode rod back in the water heater is to slide the rod in the drain hole, then using a 1 1/16"  deep well socket " feel"  the threads start by gently adjusting the bolt head angle. This is generally accomplished by raising the rod end by applying downward pressure on the socket.
 
 It s a touchie feelie kind of procedure but make sure that the anode rod does not get cross threaded before tightening. If properly installed the rod should tighten using only hand pressure.
 
 One of the first things I did with my Suburban water heater was remove the anode rod and install a petcock style drain valve. Much easier for draining the water heater. I know this brings into consideration the common preception that removing the anode rod will decrease the life expectancy of the water heater inner tank but my personal experience has not shown this to be a concern...earl

[Tim5055]

 Joe Gleason
Joe,
 
 I actually leve mine in all season long.  It is only taken out during the winterizing process.
 
 Earl gives a good description of the installation process, it s more of a feel you get as the threads begin to catch
 
 I have the surburban and my anode rod uses a 1 1/16"  socket, (others may vary) so that is what you probably want.
 
 
 I have pictures near the bottom of my [link=http://www.title-3.com/Winterize.htm]Winterizing Your Pop-Up Web Page[/link]
 
 Good luck

[Joe Gleason]

 Joe Gleason
Thanks for advice and detail on rod install!
 
 BTW enjoyed your site... Great information on there, nicely done...
 
 I ve noticed where I put the annode rod back in it s seem awfully rusted... I d assume some Tape on the threads and a tooth brush to clean out the rust will help?
 
 As a side note, I usually leave my hot water tank on " pilot" ... That warms up the tank enough overnight to give us the warm dish and rinse water we need!  
 
 I supposse a lot temp setting would be just as practical...

[Ab Diver]

 Joe Gleason
Joe, not to contradict the advice you ve been given already, but to present an alternate approach: When installing the anode rod/drain plug, I ve found that inserting the rod until the threads make contact,  then pressing on the center of the plug with a finger of one hand and turning the plug with two fingers of the other hand will line up the plug in the center of the threads. This also helps overcome the tendency of the rod to tilt down while you are trying to install it. Starting the threads with only two fingers insures you will not overpower the delicate threads and cross-thread the connection, as can happen with a socket if you are not real careful (you *don t* want to do that [] ). Then finish the job with a socket.
 
 I ve used Teflon tape on the threads- three wraps. Seems to make it easier to twist the plug with just my fingertips. Just start it one thread back from the start of the threads so it doesn t come off inside the WH next time you pull the rod. Dunno if that is with or against any directions, but it s worked for me without any leaks. Others say to only use pipe dope.
 
 No rust on my threads... might be due to your local water having more minerals (iron) dissolved in it?... just a SWAG.

[bearbait]

 ab diver
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[tlhdoc]

 Joe Gleason
Why did you have to install the anode rod/plug?  I only take mine out in the fall to check the condition of the rod.  Then after the hole is dry I put the rod back in.  I am afraid if I left it out it might get lost.  Are you removing the rod to drain the tank?  If you are there is an easyer way.  Under the trailer there are 2 valves (hot and cold) for draining the water heater.  Just open both and the water will run out of the cold water valve.
 
 I have a deep socket and wrench that I leave in the PU year round, just for the anode rod.  I start the rod with my fingers and then tighten it with the wrench.[]

[pinhi18]

 Joe Gleason
If you drain the WH by using the valves under the camper is it necessary to pull the plug and anode?  I have never pulled the plug since I bought the camper.  I have never had any trouble with the WH.

[tlhdoc]

 Joe Gleason
The only time I remove the plug is to check the condition of the anode rod and to rinse out the water heater.  You don t have to remove it for normal draining.  The water heater will be fine.

[MtnCamper]

 Joe Gleason
I think they are 1"  NPT. But I will have to check my tap to make sure. Not tonight, It s cold windy and snowing. Finally!

[MtnCamper]

 bearbait

 

ORIGINAL:  bearbait
 A question I have always had was, what size threads are these? anyone actually know what size threads they are? I was thinking of getting a tap that size and running it through those threads before I put the rod in for the season just to clean up the threads from the rust deposits. I guess I need to go out and grab the rod that I took out last fall and take it with me to match up a tap. Unless someone can save me the trouble.[]
 

Actually, I checked my tap this morning. It s a 3/4-14 NPT.