Anti Sway with/and Reese Mini 350

[wmkrahling]

All,

I am trying to correct the battle of the sway.  I have a 99 Astro and a 2000 (Coleman) Niagra with a Reese Mini 350.  I still get some sway with a large hauler runs by me at high speed.  Has anyone added a friction control anti-sway with the Reese Mini 350?  Is it possible.  Has anyone switched to the single bar type and liked it better than the 350?  I know part of the issue is the short wheel base on the Astro, but it is a great hauler.

[Cadeuses]

All,
 
I am trying to correct the battle of the sway. I have a 99 Astro and a 2000 (Coleman) Niagra with a Reese Mini 350. I still get some sway with a large hauler runs by me at high speed. Has anyone added a friction control anti-sway with the Reese Mini 350? Is it possible. Has anyone switched to the single bar type and liked it better than the 350? I know part of the issue is the short wheel base on the Astro, but it is a great hauler.

Welcome to the forums...
 
First of all, you already have sway control with the 350 mini. The single bar version doesn't have antisway control included... you must add it to the single-bar setup. Sway control will not remove ALL forms of sway, but it certainly minimizes it and gives you more control over the trailer than if you had none. By adjusting your hitch to obtain more pressure on your sway bars you will increase the antisway capabilities of the hitch. Just make sure that after you have done the adjustments, that everything is riding level. HTH and have a great day!

[mike4947]

Since I set up three of them for my father the "Astro Nut" I can say if you're getting sway with the 350 setup properly,  IMHO, first get the trailer and tongue weighed and if it's way tongue light, shift some weight around and get a decent amount of tongue weight.
If it's got 10% or more on the tongue, it's time to change the rear tires on that puppy. The "P" grade Generals that come on most Astro/Safari's are junk for towing. They induce what Astro fans call the hula, feels like sway but it starts with the Astro not the trailer. Upgrading to an "LT" type tire will make a much safer combination than adding a sway bar.

[6Quigs]

We towed our Coleman Niagara with Safari, and had a Reese Mini 350.
I started to notice it swaying a bit more, and checked the settings on the mini 350. From constant use, I was not at the 2" to 2.5" recommended by Reese. It was more like 1", which would explain why it was gettine easier to install and remove each time. I took it apart, and turned the square washer to a higher setting, and tried it again.
Next time I took it out, it felt much beter, definetly stiffer, and less bounce in the rear of the Safari.

[wmkrahling]

We towed our Coleman Niagara with Safari, and had a Reese Mini 350.
I started to notice it swaying a bit more, and checked the settings on the mini 350. From constant use, I was not at the 2" to 2.5" recommended by Reese. It was more like 1", which would explain why it was gettine easier to install and remove each time. I took it apart, and turned the square washer to a higher setting, and tried it again.
Next time I took it out, it felt much better, definetly stiffer, and less bounce in the rear of the Safari.

You know I never checked that again.  Good tip.  I did notice that it was getting easier.  I thought they were just broke in and they now went on that way.  I just kept the bolt tighten and went on with business.

I guess I have a couple things to do.

Thanks for everyones input

[Joe Gleason]

I use a friction sway with the reese mini 350...  Most times we don't notice the PU being pulled, except for breaking, accellorating and fuel consumption.

Did notice that once I had it on during snow coniditions, as I turned to stay in my lane the antisway kept the van going straight...

I can't compare, as i've never pulled with it not there...

[AustinBoston]

I have a 2000 Astro and a 2000 Bayside (very similar weight/balance to the Niagara), and use a Reese Mini-350.  I know exactly what you are talking about.

I don't mean to make this sound like an insult, but the problem is really with the way you are driving.  Please let me explain.

Whenever PJay was driving and we had a big truck blow us by, there was NO SWAY.  Whenever I was driving when the big truck passed, we'd get some minor sway that was easily settled with the electric brakes, but it was unnerving to all of us.  It became obvious that the problem was with how I was handling the passing trucks.

We both went to work thinking about what I was doing differently, and this was the conclusion we came to.  Basically, I was fighting the draft from the truck, trying with all my might and skill to stay in the center of the lane.  The rapid and subtle movements of the steering wheel translated into sway.  PJay, on the other hand, would allow the draft from the passing truck to push the whole rig sideways 6 inches or so, and would stay there until the truck finished passing and would pull us back six inches or so.

Once I started doing the same, the sway from passing trucks and buses disappeared.

A few other pointers:

Make sure you have 15% of the trailer's gross weight on the tongue (before distribution).

Make sure the Mini-350 is at it's tightest setting.  When new, we had it set one lower than the tightest setting, but had to tighten it by one notch after about 500 miles.  500 miles seems to be a break-in period for the Mini-350 and I have heard from others that they had to tighten it at about 500-600 miles.  This will reduce sway, because the amount of friction is based on the amount of weight distribution.  I have never heard of anyone having to tighten it a second time, so once should do it.

Do not tow (at least not at speed) with water in the fresh water tank.  The tank is behind the axle and will reduce tongue weight.

NEVER, EVER tow with a half tank of fresh water (this is worse than a full tank).  The sloshing action will exaggerate any sway you experience.  The gallon or two of residual water left over when the tank is "empty" is not significant.

We replaced the rear stock shocks with load-sensing shocks and when tire replacement time came on the Astro, we switched from Passenger to Light Truck tires.

Get your total setup weighed, along with each axle weight.  It's not hard to overload the Niagara's axle, and that will contribute to sway.  The first time we did this, we came in at over 9100 lbs. combined, more than 90% of the 2000 Astro's Gross Combined Vehicle Weight Rating (GCVWR).  We also found that each axle was within 100 lbs. (but under) Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR).

Austin

[wmkrahling]

I do not have doubt that the way I drive has something to do with it.  Most of the time, I have very little issues with sway.  The Mini 350 seems to do a very good job of correcting most problems.  I try and keep it "steady Eddie" on the road.  I drive it like a boat, not to much over correction and keep it still.  I grew up in Minnesota, so it is like driving on the snow.  I usually hold the wheel real low with my arms on the arm rests so I reduce the arm movement while I am driving.  My DW hates driving this way, and has a hard time with the camper because of it.

I would like to hear more about pulling back when the truck passes.  Do you mean, putting on some light break when the trailer passes?  I guess with the electric breaks that make some sense to keep it straight.

I will have to check the weight of the load, and the settings on the Reese.  I know that I was pritty heavy coming out of the Rocky's the summer before last.

I can

[AustinBoston]

I would like to hear more about pulling back when the truck passes.  Do you mean, putting on some light break when the trailer passes?

What I'm talking about is rather subtle, and is more of a steering issue than brakes.

When a big truck is passing, there is a slipstream from the front of the truck that will tend to push you away from the truck.  What I'm suggesting is to let it do so.  I used to work hard to keep the van dead centered in the lane, (fighting the slipstream) and that is where the problem comes in.

The opposite happens when the truck completes the pass.  At the back of the truck, the slipstream wants to pull you towards the truck.  Let it do so.

Done correctly, you will slide sideways about six inches when the truck starts to pass, then slide back about the same distance when the truck completes the pass.  At least for me, fighting that movement was what was causing the sway.

Trailer brakes can be used to stop minor sway, but using the Tow Vehicle brakes to stop sway is a bad idea and can make the sway worse.

Austin

[Steve-o-bud]

I have a 2000 Astro and a 2000 Bayside (very similar weight/balance to the Niagara), and use a Reese Mini-350.  I know exactly what you are talking about.

I don't mean to make this sound like an insult, but the problem is really with the way you are driving.  Please let me explain.

Whenever PJay was driving and we had a big truck blow us by, there was NO SWAY.  Whenever I was driving when the big truck passed, we'd get some minor sway that was easily settled with the electric brakes, but it was unnerving to all of us.  It became obvious that the problem was with how I was handling the passing trucks.

We both went to work thinking about what I was doing differently, and this was the conclusion we came to.  Basically, I was fighting the draft from the truck, trying with all my might and skill to stay in the center of the lane.  The rapid and subtle movements of the steering wheel translated into sway.  PJay, on the other hand, would allow the draft from the passing truck to push the whole rig sideways 6 inches or so, and would stay there until the truck finished passing and would pull us back six inches or so.

Once I started doing the same, the sway from passing trucks and buses disappeared.

A few other pointers:

Make sure you have 15% of the trailer's gross weight on the tongue (before distribution).

Make sure the Mini-350 is at it's tightest setting.  When new, we had it set one lower than the tightest setting, but had to tighten it by one notch after about 500 miles.  500 miles seems to be a break-in period for the Mini-350 and I have heard from others that they had to tighten it at about 500-600 miles.  This will reduce sway, because the amount of friction is based on the amount of weight distribution.  I have never heard of anyone having to tighten it a second time, so once should do it.

Do not tow (at least not at speed) with water in the fresh water tank.  The tank is behind the axle and will reduce tongue weight.

NEVER, EVER tow with a half tank of fresh water (this is worse than a full tank).  The sloshing action will exaggerate any sway you experience.  The gallon or two of residual water left over when the tank is "empty" is not significant.

We replaced the rear stock shocks with load-sensing shocks and when tire replacement time came on the Astro, we switched from Passenger to Light Truck tires.

Get your total setup weighed, along with each axle weight.  It's not hard to overload the Niagara's axle, and that will contribute to sway.  The first time we did this, we came in at over 9100 lbs. combined, more than 90% of the 2000 Astro's Gross Combined Vehicle Weight Rating (GCVWR).  We also found that each axle was within 100 lbs. (but under) Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR).

Austin

I would definitely agree with Austin about the water. It might not seem like a big deal, but it is. I know by first hand, white knuckle experience.

[OC Campers]

I had the exact same problem, I had the Mini-350 and a Coleman Westlake, pulled by an Astro. I tried everything listed here except for the driving differently part which I will try,but nothing did the trick. I did go to the single bar and friction sway device and have had zero sway since.Not to mention the single bar is just easier to use. It's not a cheap fix though, I imagine the hitch and sway control would set you back around $500.00. i bought my hitch second hand from Civil War Buff and already had the sway conrol so I got off cheap.
 
The Astro/big Coleman trailer sway issue is a definate hard fix. Had I known what a pain towing can be up front, I wonder if I'd have ever bought the trailer in the first place.
 
Good luck
 
Randy

[AustinBoston]

The Astro/big Coleman trailer sway issue is a definate hard fix. Had I known what a pain towing can be up front, I wonder if I'd have ever bought the trailer in the first place.

The problem isn't with all big Coleman /Fleetwod trailers, just the ones with front storage boxes.  They are particularly tongue light.  The only way I can get 15% tongue weight is to have two propane bottles, a battery, and a full storage trunk, and a full hot water heater.  I won't tell you what my real tongue weight is because it (slightly) exceeds the ratings, which I don't recommend.

I suspect this problem is fixed with the 2004 and later Fleetwoods.  The floor plans have been flipped front-to-back, and I believe the axle is farther back on the frame as a result.

Austin

[OC Campers]

Austin, I'd have to agree with you there. I had the tongue weighed on my trailer and I was over 400 lbs. That's why I won't weigh my trailer, I really don't want to know how far over I am. I forgot to mention one thing that improved my sway issues. I replaced the worn out factory shocks with a good quality gas shock. The more stable ride really helped quite a bit.

 
Randall