?On installing back up lights

[tlhdoc]

Take a peek at the hitch mounted backup lights at AutoZone - you do have one up there, don't ya?

Yes we do have an Auto Zone a few miles away.  DH loves the place $$$.

DH bought me the driving light kit for Christmas, so I already have the lights.  Thanks for the info.

[wynot]

Yes we do have an Auto Zone a few miles away. DH loves the place $$$.
 
DH bought me the driving light kit for Christmas, so I already have the lights. Thanks for the info.

Understood.  Just make sure that the beams are as wide as you want them to be.  A true driving light is a high beam supplement (long and narrow beam) compared to a fog light's wide and short beam.  A mile long beam of halogen light wouldn't make you popular with your camping neighbors.

[mrflinders]

I have some thoughts on this topic...
 
You should be able to power 55W lights off of your TV's back-up circuit without running into power issues.  
 
The typical wattage of your TV's back up bulbs are about 28W.  You have two of these, or 56W.  Now if you add two 55W bulbs to the circuit (the driving lights), you end up with 166W of power draw.  This would be a draw of about 14 Amps.  Most TVs will have a 20A fuse in line with the back up circuit, especially if it is wired for towing.  So, just verify that the circuit is protected to 20 Amps, and you can install the lights without worry.
 
Additionally, you could install a double-pole toggle switch on the trailer, so that you can switch the lights over to the trailer battery, should you want to turn them on without the TV connected.  The switch would simply select which source to connect the lights to - either the TV's back up circuit, or the Trailer's battery.  Of course, make sure the switch is also rated to 20 Amps.
 
With this configuration, the back-up lights will work automatically with the TV's, but will not be pulling any current from the trailer's battery.  If you go with a relay setup, where the TV activates the relay and connects the Trailer battery to the lights, you are pulling 9 Amps off the trailer battery while you are backing up.  Some of the current will come from the TV's battery charge line, but more than 50% will come from the trailer battery.  After 10 or 15 minutes of backing into a campsite, your trailer battery would be (mildly) drained.  For those who dry-camp, this setup would not be preferrable.
 
As for Driving vs. Fog lights, fog lights would provide a better beam pattern for use as back-up lights.  However, it is not easy to find fog lights with clear lenses.  I installed some 55W driving lights on my truck for additional reverse lighting, and I found that they work fine as long as I point them down towards the ground.
 
I am considering installing lights on my trailer too, however, I think that it would be better to install them under the trailer on the sides, about 2/3 of the way back.  That way I can see things that are to the sides as well as to the rear.  I have come pretty close to power poles in the dark before! Once its done I'll post some photos.

[tlhdoc]

mrflinders thank you for your input.  I am thinking about your suggestion to install the lights along the side of the PU and not on the back bumper.  My DH can't see where it would help.  I like the idea.  I use a bunk end hide away on the rear bunk and it would block most of the lights (if I turned them on while camping).  I will have to see how far they will stick out from the sides of the PU.

[wynot]

I have some thoughts on this topic...
 
You should be able to power 55W lights off of your TV's back-up circuit without running into power issues.
 
The typical wattage of your TV's back up bulbs are about 28W. You have two of these, or 56W. Now if you add two 55W bulbs to the circuit (the driving lights), you end up with 166W of power draw. This would be a draw of about 14 Amps. Most TVs will have a 20A fuse in line with the back up circuit, especially if it is wired for towing. So, just verify that the circuit is protected to 20 Amps, and you can install the lights without worry.
 
Additionally, you could install a double-pole toggle switch on the trailer, so that you can switch the lights over to the trailer battery, should you want to turn them on without the TV connected. The switch would simply select which source to connect the lights to - either the TV's back up circuit, or the Trailer's battery. Of course, make sure the switch is also rated to 20 Amps.
 
With this configuration, the back-up lights will work automatically with the TV's, but will not be pulling any current from the trailer's battery. If you go with a relay setup, where the TV activates the relay and connects the Trailer battery to the lights, you are pulling 9 Amps off the trailer battery while you are backing up. Some of the current will come from the TV's battery charge line, but more than 50% will come from the trailer battery. After 10 or 15 minutes of backing into a campsite, your trailer battery would be (mildly) drained. For those who dry-camp, this setup would not be preferrable.
 
As for Driving vs. Fog lights, fog lights would provide a better beam pattern for use as back-up lights. However, it is not easy to find fog lights with clear lenses. I installed some 55W driving lights on my truck for additional reverse lighting, and I found that they work fine as long as I point them down towards the ground.
 
I am considering installing lights on my trailer too, however, I think that it would be better to install them under the trailer on the sides, about 2/3 of the way back. That way I can see things that are to the sides as well as to the rear. I have come pretty close to power poles in the dark before! Once its done I'll post some photos.

Just a thought -  if you install them under the camper on the sides (in other words - behind the rear wheels), they will be right in the direct spray of the wheels with dirt, water, mud, rocks, etc..  Mine get dirty enough on the rear, but at least gravel, etc. has had a chance to drop below the lamp by the time it goes the 6 or so ft from the wheels.

[wynot]

mrflinders thank you for your input. I am thinking about your suggestion to install the lights along the side of the PU and not on the back bumper. My DH can't see where it would help. I like the idea. I use a bunk end hide away on the rear bunk and it would block most of the lights (if I turned them on while camping). I will have to see how far they will stick out from the sides of the PU.

They would probably stick out just far enough for you to bump into all the time...  
 
I understand why they would help - DH hasn't backed it up in the dark, has he?

[tlhdoc]

DH hasn't backed it up in the dark, has he?

DH has never back up the trailer any where. :p

He hasn't pulled it forward either.

[wynot]

DH has never back up the trailer any where. :p
 
He hasn't pulled it forward either.

Tracy,
 
I might have thought that, but I wasn't gonna say it...
 
K.