Fridge trips breaker on A/C

[Dpybluedog]

I have a 2001 Coleman Niagra that I am having problems with the refrigarator. What happens is that when I have it running off of A/C it trips the circuit breaker that it's plugged into. So say even if I run the plug straight from the fridge to an outlet in my house it still trips the circuit. So I know it has to be in the fridge itself. Has anyone out there had this problem before and how did you fix it? :eyecrazy:

[Dpybluedog]

Any ideas? Please Help! :frosty:

[mike4947]

If it's tripping the breaker in the house when plugged in direct, you definitely have a dead short somewhere in the fridge. The 120 volt heater has most likely left the building ansd went to heater heaven. Check out a couple of the refdge sites for FAQ's. There are a couple of really good ones with even a few schematics.

[SpeakEasy]

Probably some of your circuits in the house are protected by 15-amp circuit breakers and others by 20-amp circuit breakers. (This information is embossed on the switches of the breakers.) If you are tripping a 15-amp breaker, try plugging into a circuit protected by a 20-amp breaker. Your kitchen circuit might be one of those. Make sure nothing else on the circuit is running. Then fire up the popup's AC.

I believe the minimum in a campground is a 30-amp circuit.

[mike4947]

Since he said the Refridgerator was tripping the breaker and it draws about 4 amps on 120 volt AC it's a short not a breaker capacity problem.

[LKaskel]

Your fridge heats the refridgerant to cause the cooling effect instead of compressing it like a home fridge or air conditioner.  I am unsure if your 3 way fridge has a seperate heater for the 12 volt cycle (DC) and the 120 volt cycle (AC).  If the 120 volt (AC) is bad on the fridge it may not be a total loss. I agree there is a short in the 120 volt circuit.  This could be caused by a short in the heater element or the wire that is plugged into the 120 volt receptacle could be shorted.  If the wire is shorted then it is VERY possible to fix it cheaply.  If the heater element is shorted then I would expect it to be somewhat expensive.  As a test switch the fridge to 12 volt or DC and see if the fridge will cool.  If so there are still some options.  You could run the fridge on DC from now on and you are still in business.  It is ok to us it in the DC mode even when the camper is plugged in at the campground.  I do not beleive it works quite as well as AC but it does work!  Also you could use the fridge by using propane except when you are towing it.  Just some thoughts to save some dollars (if that is a concern).

[mike4947]

If you decide to get someone to look at the fridge I'd recommend going to the manufacturers site and seeing if they have an authorized service center listing. Most RV dealers have limited experience and with their labor rates running between $95 and $110 an hour you can soon turn a simple part replacement into more than a new fridge would cost.

[chasd60]

I am not sure how long the refrigerator manufacturers warranty the refrigerators but it is longer than the typical one year warranty you get on the camper. Might be worth a check.

[SpeakEasy]

Since he said the Refridgerator was tripping the breaker and it draws about 4 amps on 120 volt AC it's a short not a breaker capacity problem.

I mis-typed. I meant, "fire up the refrigerator" not fire up the A/C.