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Adding Trailer Brakes

Started by rock_hound, Jun 07, 2005, 12:30 PM

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rock_hound

I have decided to add trailer brakes to my camper.  I spent about $430 on this project (including a Prodigy controller).  I got all of the brake parts from Dexter yesterday.  I installed one of the brakes.  It was a lot easier than I thought it would be.  I have a few questions that hopefully Brainpause or someone who has done this can answer:

1. I know that the brakes should be wired in parallel.  Does it matter where the connection is made?  Should I run the brake wire and ground to one brake then splice in the wiring to other side (wiring would be an L shape under camper)?  Or could I run wiring to the middle of the axle and branch off to each brake (wiring would be in a T shape under camper)?

I will upload some photos for others who may want to attempt this project.

GNAPLUS2

Quote from: rock_houndI have decided to add trailer brakes to my camper.  I spent about $430 on this project (including a Prodigy controller).  I got all of the brake parts from Dexter yesterday.  I installed one of the brakes.  It was a lot easier than I thought it would be.  I have a few questions that hopefully Brainpause or someone who has done this can answer:

1. I know that the brakes should be wired in parallel.  Does it matter where the connection is made?  Should I run the brake wire and ground to one brake then splice in the wiring to other side (wiring would be an L shape under camper)?  Or could I run wiring to the middle of the axle and branch off to each brake (wiring would be in a T shape under camper)?

I will upload some photos for others who may want to attempt this project.


I did the L shape a couple of years ago been fine ever since ,ran the wire down one side then used  a crimp connector to splice in . Easy and no problems.

mike4947

According to the folks at Dexter any way is correct. We usually just find the main wire loom for the rear lights and run the opposite brake wire to that side and do the conection there and run the wire to the tongue along with the other wiring.

rock_hound

Finished the brake job yesterday (including wiring in the brake controller).  I learned the hard way that you should not use the square wire taps for the brake wire.  The Prodigy kept giving the overload symbol (oL).  I replaced the wire taps with solder and tape.  The overloads have gone away for the most part.  However, I did get it a few more times after that.  

My only remaining problem is adjusting the Prodigy.  I followed the manual....set is at 6.0.....25 mph.....however the brakes did not lock up.  I set the gain all way to 13 and one wheel locked up for an instant.  I think I have the brakes adjusted right.  What could cause this?  or do some trailers just not lock up.   Normal braking seems fine.  I am just concerned about an emergency situation.

tlhdoc

You should have been able to lock both brakes up.  I don't think any PUs have anti lock brakes.  Do you have the brakes adjusted the same?:)

rock_hound

The brakes are adjusted the same.  I adjusted until the wheel would not turn then backed it off just until I could hear brake lining barely touching the hub with the wheel freely spinning.

mike4947

Well since you had a OL alarm since you redid the wiring I'd say you've got a worn wire somewhere under the trailer or a dirty/corroded TV/trailer connection. Since you said one side locked and the other side didn't and they were adjusted the same I'm betting on a worn wire going to the side that didn't lock.

It's very common for wires under the trailer to get either worn through insulation or to actually be cut by the suspension.

rock_hound

Quote from: mike4947Well since you had a OL alarm since you redid the wiring I'd say you've got a worn wire somewhere under the trailer or a dirty/corroded TV/trailer connection. Since you said one side locked and the other side didn't and they were adjusted the same I'm betting on a worn wire going to the side that didn't lock.

It's very common for wires under the trailer to get either worn through insulation or to actually be cut by the suspension.

The brakes, all wiring and connections are new.  I used the type of brake wire recommended by an RV dealer (two wire inside a protective jacket).  All wiring on the TV is also new.

I read the following in the FAQ section at Dexter Axle:

BRAKES - Why can't I lock and slide my electric brakes?
On an unloaded trailer, you may be able to lock up your brakes if your electric brake controller is supplying full amperage to the brakes. When loaded to capacity, you may not be able to lock your brakes as electric brakes are designed to slow the trailer at a controlled rate, and not designed to lock up the wheels on a fully loaded trailer. Our brakes are designed to meet all applicable safety standards. All of our brakes will perform better after numerous burnish stops to seat the brake linings to the drums.

As for the oL warning, I guess I will watch it.  If keeps doing it I guess I will try to solder all connections.  Is brake wiring supposed to be so sensitive?

mike4947

Nope, since everything is new I'd put the OL fault as one caused by the TV 7 pin connector. They get very little maitenance and do corrode or short especially if you live near the ocean or in the snowbelt.