Permanent water heater by-pass question

[wynot]

I found a picture that actually makes sense, at a dealer's web site.

Installing the permanent bypass was the biggest PITA that I ever encountered with that water heater on the Utah.
 
Multiple adapters and changing fittings.

[SheBantam]

Have not had a chance yet, still sort of sick and now the weather is bad, so the heater (electric) is on and the door to the lines under the cabinet is open...

I have opened the package and connected all fittings to each other, but the by pass hose is only hooked to one T fitting right now.
All I have to do is blow out the lines (I forgot to say I bought a new battery charger w/air compressor Sunday), then disconnect the lines from the WH and reconnect...Raymond said he would help me with the wrenches but he was NOT touching the by-pass...he still has nightmares about putting the bar faucet on the Cabin A...he ended up cutting the old (plastic bathroom type) faucet off because of the wing nuts hiting the wood and not turning...the new fittings are NOT wing nuts. I still need to get adhesive caulk and caulk the faucet to the counter top.  Yeah, I have butyl tape, but he did not do that step...

Wavery, and you wonder why I don't want his help....geesh...I still want your wife's e-mail...

[wynot]

Have not had a chance yet, still sort of sick and now the weather is bad, so the heater (electric) is on and the door to the lines under the cabinet is open...
 
I have opened the package and connected all fittings to each other, but the by pass hose is only hooked to one T fitting right now.
All I have to do is blow out the lines (I forgot to say I bought a new battery charger w/air compressor Sunday), then disconnect the lines from the WH and reconnect...Raymond said he would help me with the wrenches but he was NOT touching the by-pass...he still has nightmares about putting the bar faucet on the Cabin A...he ended up cutting the old (plastic bathroom type) faucet off because of the wing nuts hiting the wood and not turning...the new fittings are NOT wing nuts. I still need to get adhesive caulk and caulk the faucet to the counter top. Yeah, I have butyl tape, but he did not do that step...
 
Wavery, and you wonder why I don't want his help....geesh...I still want your wife's e-mail...

Paula, watch pressures with that compressor, you're limited to about 30 psi, not the 100+ you can potentially generate.  You can blow lines and fittings with one.

[SheBantam]

OK, I got the by-pass in, filled the HW (I heard it filling) but no hot water, turned the levers, no hot water.

Drained the HW, turned the lever around (Yep I had it in backwards), put the plug back turned the water on, DID NOT hear it filling, wenti in raised the bed, flipped the lever NOW I heard it filled it, still no hot water.  A little cold water, a little air, then NOTHING, valve left on, nothing, not even air.

Question: Did I mess up the check valve in the single valved bypass when I put it in backwards?  OR maybe did I just get a bad valve???

Back pressure in the water heater is phenomenal...I am glad I was not standing in front of the water heater (cold water) when I took the plug out the last time, it was a serious projectile.  It flew half way to the next trailer.

[PattieAM]

While not related to the by-pass issue, when winterizing with antifreeze, it's important to put some down the drains - especially if you have any 'P-traps'.

[SheBantam]

Yes Pattie it is VERY important.

I am a mechanical ditz, I admit it...the reason I had no hot water, not only did I have the valve piece in backwards, but I had what I did not know was a check valve also on backwards...

Note to self and any other do it yourselfer types that should not be doing it themselves...the brass fittings go into the water heater directly...just because you (I) took out plastic nipples. that does not mean that the plastic pieces of the single valve by-pass go into the water heater...the BRASS piece does...if I repeat this enough, I will be OK on the next camper I aquire...